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Not wishing to be too pedantic...but the radar is the Type 84 Long Range Air Defence Surveillance radar, designed and built by Marconi s, The 60 ton aerial (designed and built by Vickers) and cabin rotated normally at 4 r.p.m....but could be set to scan a smaller sector. Primarily used to control Coltishall's Lightnings....and those from further afield.....and later Wattisham's Phantoms in amongst other things intercepting the regular 'Bear' incursions ! How do I know? I maintained and operated it for more years than I like to remember! Part of the unknown / unloved / unrecognised Royal Air Force..................'They also served.................' Lovely to see your photo of the old girl! A model of that would be different....but then again it has no wings or noise generators! Rex

Very small point soldering iron, finr solder (you can stretch the normal stuff to make it thinner0, and a clamp made of a modified clother peg. 'stip and 'tin' the fine leads first, smallest wipe of solder on the 'lands' of the led, magnifying glass and a quick 'dab' with the iron... and Robert is your mother's brother!

Ta!

3014 SMD LED Warm White 120° 2000-3000mcd@20mA 2800-3500K, for the one you have selected means :- 3mm long, 1.4mm wide.............so pretty small LED .............. ...........Light Emitting Diode......but we already knew that! 120° ..........................the angle from which it is visible 2000 - 3000mcd...........the brightness at the stated 20mA current in microcandela 2800 - 3500K ..............is some kind of code for the colour temperature......beyond me! Rex

No problem mate, just use the advised value for the colour LED that you are using.......green are different to reds which are different to blues etc......all reds can be fed by a common resistor, all greens on another etc etc...... fill in the supply box eg 9........and the forward current given in the suppliers specs eg 30, check on the Forward Voltage [?] for the colour you wish to use and add the value given...in this case 3.3 to the box. (this voltage is only necessary so that when the wizard designs your circuit. it can work out for example that if you were going to use in this case 4 white diodes.....3.3 +3.3 + 3.3 + 3.3 = 13.2v ,so your 9v supply would not be sufficient to light all 4 leds, so it then would design the circuit to produce 2 chains instead of one...... have a play with the Wizard, get it to design you some circuits and see how you get on....... a ( A good tip is to look for the ARRAY that consumes the least mW, (any battery will last longer!) The resistor colour code advice is useful too when building your circuit.

http://abpic.co.uk/results.php?q=G-ajkw&fields=all&sort=latest&limit=10 B/W photos of 'JKW http://abpic.co.uk/results.php?q=G-advj&fields=all&sort=latest&limit=10 'DVJ http://abpic.co.uk/results.php?q=G-akrs&fields=all&sort=latest&limit=10 'KRS (and colour too) <airliners.net photo removed - see here for details> http://abpic.co.uk/results.php?q=G-aczp&fields=all&sort=latest&limit=10 and http://www.airliners.net/search?keywords=g-aczp&sortBy=dateAccepted&sortOrder=desc&perPage=48&display=detail 'CZP Regards and hope that they are of some use. Rex

You may find this site useful. http://led.linear1.org/led.wiz I used it extensively when I was building the Hermes model now at Aeroventure Doncaster or this one for single LEDs http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz Please note that you cannot mix different coloured LEDs on one circuit as they all need different operating currents. With a light bulb, the brilliance depends on the voltage and it doesn't matter which way around you connect it, when the voltage drops, the brilliance decreases until the blub goes out, current is immaterial. With an LED , it doesn't give a monkeys what the DC voltage is as it relies on being fed with the correct size current flowing in the right direction for it / them to work. current too low....LED doesn't light. Current too high or flowing the wrong way round...the LED may light for the briefest time before going 'piff, paff, puff' and being terminally knackered! (Beauty is that they are dirt cheap so you can afford to 'blow' a few while learning!) (Fine wire can sometimes be garnered FoC if you happen to know someone who repairs laptops! The cables that connect to the screen come as a fine ribbon, if you are careful they can be separated into individual wires) Remember all electronics is governed by smoke.........if the smoke stays in the box all will be well......but if it escapes...things fail to fuction! (and you cannot get the smoke back in no matter how hard you try!) When you buy the LEDs the supplier should be able to give you the Forward Voltage , and the MAXIMUM forward current in mA. If you know what voltage you want things to work on you just apply the figures to the calculator on the above links. One resistor will can be used to control the current through several of the same type of LED if all are connected in series (one straight chain) Different colours will require different value resistors to work from the same input voltage. When fitting the diodes (don't use too much heat...they don't like to be cooked apply a good hot iron for the shortest possible time to make the joint) the little leg is neg (-ve), also shown on some types as a 'flat' moulded into the LED flange, or by a coloured stripe on the negative end in the case of an smd. It might be worth investigating the use of 'solder paint or paste', to make things easier. Hope this helps Rex (P.S. you 'lose' about 0.3 of a volt for each LED in the chain)

The white streaks are probably the matting agent, needs a lot more stirring......shaking just wont 'cut it', what to do about it now......not sure..that's another problem!

Can I ask you guys to enlighten me please? How do you get Flightradar to display the aircraft idents as labels without just putting the cursor over them? They only appear on my screen when I overlay a particular aircraft. Thanks Rex Cancel that request! found the answer under tools.....now I feel like one!

Should read Nato IR absorbative Green Out of interest....it appears pink if scratched!

Here' s mine https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10153072700248605&set=oa.722938874485494&type=1 Rex

Very nice! BZ Rex

Nice model......had a heck of a job with the etch for the side lift! Well done......looking forward to seeing the rest of the fleet! Rex

Might be worth a look at Airfix Mag Sept 77 if you can get hold of it! Rex

Suggest you assemble parts separate from the model! You don't want things to melt. Keep brass clean, I use liquid flux (Baker's Fluid) and then Carr's Solder paint. Brilliant stuff, basically finely ground solder in a flux solution. Apply where you need the joint, heat metal (mast) with solder iron, wash off the surplus, (great for etched sheet doesn't block the detail as it stays liquid where it is not heated by the metal). You can use a small crocodile clip between sections that you are soldering to act as a heat shunt. Hope this helps Rex PS the solder paint is pricey but will last a lifetime!

I have seen a photo on t'internet of a RN wheeled HAS2 in Army cam (Green/black) for covert use in Northern Ireland. Apparently used for maritime patrol in conjunction with a pair of Ton Class Minehunters. ppPrune has a page on Northern Ireland Helis but I haven't been able to 'link it' XZ691 was the serial. Cheers Rex

I am completely gutted! Having already put the HAS3 into the stash, I thought that I would 'push the boat out' and buy the Sea Lynx Mk88A version with a view to building as a HMA8. Invested and it arrived ok. Sadly Sprue Q with the bits listed above is no longer included in the box so no tail fold or IR unit. If when you read this you find that either a) you have a spare one.............................(rocking horse manure comes to mind) or you could lend me one to assess whether I could use it as a pattern for a one off replication of some parts. Please send me a pm. All reasonable costs covered naturally. Thanks Rex

That's a bit tasty....well done Dave. Rex

Sim, please e-mail me your snail mail. I may have a 1:35 scale 353 in the stash will have a butcher's tomorrow! Rex (ex owner of RAF TCW Series 3...... 21GJ39) ([email protected])

http://www.djparkins.com/acatalog/1_35th_Vehicles.html Firing Line cammo..... this etched sheet looks good if you anneal it first then bend leaves in a random manner before painting randomly in sand/pink or dark green/light green or green/black depending on the appropriate scenario. If you were then to add the herbs, finely rubbed, it would look even more the business! Nice model though.....m,ight be 'over egging' it a bit! Regards Rex

Commercial shipping? Hmmmm maybe. Or is it to enlarge manouevering space for the new 'White Elephants'......sorry carriers? Rex

I have used Overhead Projector Pens in the past, Using the permanent variety applied from the inside of the canopy. Try to complete it in one hit or the later application of ink will allow the spirit carrier to attack the earlier layer. IPA will allow wipe offs for further attempts. A thin coat of varnish over the ink will seal it. Good Luck Rex (Video search for Rex's Falklands Hermes might prove interesting!)

Hmmmmm , has anyone else noticed that on all the 'Hermes Returns' type film footage, there is not an RAF uniform to be seen? Were the RAF crews and GR3 maintenance staff forced to walk back home? Rex

A short couple of videos of my nearly finished 5 year project in 1:96 scale In memory of those of all arms, who did not return from Operation Corporate Too long a job for a Group build, but hope you enjoy Build History on Modelwarships UK Forum Rex

If it works the same as the original Microset/Microsolve Pre wet the surface the decal is to be fitted onto with decalfix,Apply with soft paintbrush Trim the decal as tight as possible and then release paper in water as normal slide decal into positiom on model removing backing paper, immediately soak up excess fluid with the torn edge of a paper tissue, DO NOT RUB or attempt to move, decal is very fragile at this time,and could well disintegrate Decal should pull itself down tight. If not lightly and rapidly moisten the decal surface with microsolve and leave to dry. Rex