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emlra

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  1. Not wishing to be too pedantic...but the radar is the Type 84 Long Range Air Defence Surveillance radar, designed and built by Marconi s, The 60 ton aerial (designed and built by Vickers) and cabin rotated normally at 4 r.p.m....but could be set to scan a smaller sector. Primarily used to control Coltishall's Lightnings....and those from further afield.....and later Wattisham's Phantoms in amongst other things intercepting the regular 'Bear' incursions ! How do I know? I maintained and operated it for more years than I like to remember! Part of the unknown / unloved / unrecognised Royal Air Force..................'They also served.................' Lovely to see your photo of the old girl! A model of that would be different....but then again it has no wings or noise generators! Rex
  2. Very small point soldering iron, finr solder (you can stretch the normal stuff to make it thinner0, and a clamp made of a modified clother peg. 'stip and 'tin' the fine leads first, smallest wipe of solder on the 'lands' of the led, magnifying glass and a quick 'dab' with the iron... and Robert is your mother's brother!
  3. 3014 SMD LED Warm White 120° 2000-3000mcd@20mA 2800-3500K, for the one you have selected means :- 3mm long, 1.4mm wide.............so pretty small LED .............. ...........Light Emitting Diode......but we already knew that! 120° ..........................the angle from which it is visible 2000 - 3000mcd...........the brightness at the stated 20mA current in microcandela 2800 - 3500K ..............is some kind of code for the colour temperature......beyond me! Rex
  4. No problem mate, just use the advised value for the colour LED that you are using.......green are different to reds which are different to blues etc......all reds can be fed by a common resistor, all greens on another etc etc...... fill in the supply box eg 9........and the forward current given in the suppliers specs eg 30, check on the Forward Voltage [?] for the colour you wish to use and add the value given...in this case 3.3 to the box. (this voltage is only necessary so that when the wizard designs your circuit. it can work out for example that if you were going to use in this case 4 white diodes.....3.3 +3.3 + 3.3 + 3.3 = 13.2v ,so your 9v supply would not be sufficient to light all 4 leds, so it then would design the circuit to produce 2 chains instead of one...... have a play with the Wizard, get it to design you some circuits and see how you get on....... a ( A good tip is to look for the ARRAY that consumes the least mW, (any battery will last longer!) The resistor colour code advice is useful too when building your circuit.
  5. http://abpic.co.uk/results.php?q=G-ajkw&fields=all&sort=latest&limit=10 B/W photos of 'JKW http://abpic.co.uk/results.php?q=G-advj&fields=all&sort=latest&limit=10 'DVJ http://abpic.co.uk/results.php?q=G-akrs&fields=all&sort=latest&limit=10 'KRS (and colour too) <airliners.net photo removed - see here for details> http://abpic.co.uk/results.php?q=G-aczp&fields=all&sort=latest&limit=10 and http://www.airliners.net/search?keywords=g-aczp&sortBy=dateAccepted&sortOrder=desc&perPage=48&display=detail 'CZP Regards and hope that they are of some use. Rex
  6. You may find this site useful. http://led.linear1.org/led.wiz I used it extensively when I was building the Hermes model now at Aeroventure Doncaster or this one for single LEDs http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz Please note that you cannot mix different coloured LEDs on one circuit as they all need different operating currents. With a light bulb, the brilliance depends on the voltage and it doesn't matter which way around you connect it, when the voltage drops, the brilliance decreases until the blub goes out, current is immaterial. With an LED , it doesn't give a monkeys what the DC voltage is as it relies on being fed with the correct size current flowing in the right direction for it / them to work. current too low....LED doesn't light. Current too high or flowing the wrong way round...the LED may light for the briefest time before going 'piff, paff, puff' and being terminally knackered! (Beauty is that they are dirt cheap so you can afford to 'blow' a few while learning!) (Fine wire can sometimes be garnered FoC if you happen to know someone who repairs laptops! The cables that connect to the screen come as a fine ribbon, if you are careful they can be separated into individual wires) Remember all electronics is governed by smoke.........if the smoke stays in the box all will be well......but if it escapes...things fail to fuction! (and you cannot get the smoke back in no matter how hard you try!) When you buy the LEDs the supplier should be able to give you the Forward Voltage , and the MAXIMUM forward current in mA. If you know what voltage you want things to work on you just apply the figures to the calculator on the above links. One resistor will can be used to control the current through several of the same type of LED if all are connected in series (one straight chain) Different colours will require different value resistors to work from the same input voltage. When fitting the diodes (don't use too much heat...they don't like to be cooked apply a good hot iron for the shortest possible time to make the joint) the little leg is neg (-ve), also shown on some types as a 'flat' moulded into the LED flange, or by a coloured stripe on the negative end in the case of an smd. It might be worth investigating the use of 'solder paint or paste', to make things easier. Hope this helps Rex (P.S. you 'lose' about 0.3 of a volt for each LED in the chain)
  7. The white streaks are probably the matting agent, needs a lot more stirring......shaking just wont 'cut it', what to do about it now......not sure..that's another problem!
  8. Can I ask you guys to enlighten me please? How do you get Flightradar to display the aircraft idents as labels without just putting the cursor over them? They only appear on my screen when I overlay a particular aircraft. Thanks Rex Cancel that request! found the answer under tools.....now I feel like one!
  9. Should read Nato IR absorbative Green Out of interest....it appears pink if scratched!
  10. Here' s mine https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10153072700248605&set=oa.722938874485494&type=1 Rex
  11. Nice model......had a heck of a job with the etch for the side lift! Well done......looking forward to seeing the rest of the fleet! Rex
  12. Might be worth a look at Airfix Mag Sept 77 if you can get hold of it! Rex
  13. Suggest you assemble parts separate from the model! You don't want things to melt. Keep brass clean, I use liquid flux (Baker's Fluid) and then Carr's Solder paint. Brilliant stuff, basically finely ground solder in a flux solution. Apply where you need the joint, heat metal (mast) with solder iron, wash off the surplus, (great for etched sheet doesn't block the detail as it stays liquid where it is not heated by the metal). You can use a small crocodile clip between sections that you are soldering to act as a heat shunt. Hope this helps Rex PS the solder paint is pricey but will last a lifetime!
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