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Everything posted by Murdo

  1. Are you convicts getting some typical Scottish weather just now?
  2. 1/144 scale (i.e. fighters etc) are are vastly overlooked and Revell produce some real crackers! You can build a really fine model, as you have done.
  3. Yep, needs to be finished by next Friday.
  4. Until I saw it in your hand I don't think i realised how big it actually is.
  5. Man! Those handrails look superb!
  6. That box itself is a "model". Nice one!
  7. My calipers are almost identical but about 20 years old. Time to visit Aldi, a spare is invaluable and at £7.99... Oh... Lovely work Beefy!!!
  8. YAAAAAAAAAAAY!!! Kight Templar is back! That was a terrible thing to do Steve!
  9. I like the idea of the brass rod in plastic rod. Very useful tip! Following with great interest.
  10. Nah, Xantho will look great with some yellow flickering LEDs. This is my first ever attempt with FO which is why I'm making such a pig's ear of it. Thanks Kev! It's not an easy thing to replicate.
  11. By the way, here she is, nesting comfortably in her build rig with the electronics breadboard, LEDs and FO attached to her.:
  12. Thanks Kev. Haven't been away too much though. Most of the time was just spent making wee parts (bitts, life belts, anchor chain, various curved pipes / vents etc) and often losing them before I could get them into my safe box. By the way, this is my "measuring stick": A fair bit of time was spent making a "skin" from 0.25mm plasticard with cutouts to cover the entire hull and get the very lovely and graceful curve from the deck rail to the bow correct. Added an inner skin with the same cutouts inside to add some strength... Which brought it's own problems. Also added the three rubbing strakes from .25mm half round rod along the side of the hull and used the same stuff for the entire top rail running right round the ship. I've started gluing a lot of these in place now. The superstructure was re-attached to the hull and glued on with JB Weld which is the strongest glue I know of. If the FO manages to shift that joint then all is lost and I'll have to remove the FO and probably make a new superstructure. Made anchor chains by twisting strands of electrical wire together and then gently tapping it flattish with a small hammer. this was then superglued to the anchor windlass once it was in place. Also started adding the bow Bitts and pipes / vents etc plus windlass, anchor chains, PE ladder, railings. and .25mm plasticard watertight doors. Life belts are cut from plastic rod. Currently making (or trying to make) the "Antenna" - or whatever it is - sticking out of the front of the bridge and the bridge wing searchlights: To be continued...
  13. Absolutely stunning work there. Sheer museum class!!!
  14. I love airbrushing Tamiya and it is fantastic for that but as mentioned above, when I've tried brushing it I often find that (even with retarders) it lifts the previous coat or just shows to many brush marks. Revel Aquacoat is an excellent brush paint.
  15. Can't believe it's been four months since I last posted anything on Jura. Work has been murder as another manager went long term sick and I ended up doing his work as well as my own. I thought I'd get a load of stuff done over Christmas but, work was a busy as ever. Plus my other two hobbies, Flight sim and Hunter - COTW. I would be making (and often losing) tiny Jura parts whilst indulging in these other two. Twasn't only work and othe hobbies mind you. Having seen and admired Stelangton's lovelywork on the 1:350 Titanic with LEDs and Fibre Optics (FO from here on) I decided the Jura would look good lit up the same way... Cue a three month fascination (insanity) with a breadboard, batteries, LEDs, resistors, photoresistors and off course FO cable, cursed be the stuff! My Beloved got quite fed up with me lighting up strands of FO whilst cooing over the results. The smallest calibre was .25mm and that is thin stuff. Couldn't figure out why one strand wouldn't light up until I realised I was trying to light up a strand of my daughters hair! So, started fitting the FO to Jura. You may remember the "skeleton" looked like this: Which was then filled with Isopon P38 to produce this: However, to fit the FO I had to I had to Dremel out rather large chunks of Jura and she ended up looking like this: And this: You can see just how much of the superstructure supports I happily Dremeled away: I also made a seascape to take the FO and assorted gubbins. Seascape made from a blue painted base covered with translucent bathroom sealant which was the sealed with Halfords Clear Lacquer (kills the sealant stickness). I then glued the superstructure to the hull and the hull to the seascape. All good!!! Unfortunately, removing so much internal superstructure support left me with an unthought of problem. No superstructure support! FO cable on it's own is reasonably malleable stuff and fairly happy to do as bidden. FO cable in a bundle grows a hoodie gang mentality, is evil stuff and is like trying to herd cats! One day whilst manipulating the FO cable I heard a ripping sound and all cable tension disappeared. On turning the seascape box over I found that - tied together the FO also acted like a leaf spring under tension and it had ripped the superstructure from the deck. I put her away on the shelf of shame for a few weeks in rage and vented my frustration by shooting virtual animals. Spent a bit of time in the the Yukon area of Hunter COTW hunting Wolves with a crossbow and being attacked by them left, right and centre. To be continued:
  16. Pretty spectacular scratch building there!
  17. That Harrier looks pretty darned good!!! Nice one.
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