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Vox Repeater

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About Vox Repeater

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    The middle of nowhere, France

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  1. Well all the structures are now together Base 1 by nomisd2002, on Flickr Base 4 by nomisd2002, on Flickr Overall its not as bad as it could have been. It would seem that the corners where three pieces come together are my blind spot because I got this on the second building Base 3 by nomisd2002, on Flickr I think that I will deal with this with a wall plate for the roof, I mean there must be a roof there must there not? And despite what I said above, I think that I am going to have invest in some milliput. The holes and gaps in the joins are going to need something a bit more substantial than the plastic filler than I have.
  2. Do you know what - this would have been a lot quicker and a lot tidier! I am finding the Mini Art kit something of a curates egg. It has a lot of very good points but, but. I think their main negative point for me is the edges and the joins. I think that you technique would go a long way to negating the problems with these as it would give you a nice clean edge to start with. I think there is also an inherent problem with the edges and joining them together in that they are too "thick". Overall they are nice buildings though. However the more I go through this build, the more I think I know where I want to go with my next project. I have decided that what I really want to try is actually building a structure with yer actual bricks, stone blocks and slates of the cast your own from a mould variety. I have already started scheming and planning this....
  3. I have finally got round to starting to paint these and I don't know what I worried about! Figures 2 by nomisd2002, on Flickr Figures 3 by nomisd2002, on Flickr Figures 4 by nomisd2002, on Flickr As a first pass I am extremely happy with what I have done. Having never done it before and seeing what experts can produce, I had always thought that painting figures was going to be impossibly fiddly and frustrating. It is anything but. I was only going to start by painting the skin on each figure, which I did. But I then looked at it and thought "Okay, that looks good, lets carry on". Obviously it is the first pass and there is a lot of touching up to do and some details (like belts) need finishing off but I walked away from that thinking I should have started this figure painting lark years ago!
  4. I have finally got round to start painting. I am still not confident in my airbrushing yet so have decided to brush paint. I am persevering with practicing with the air brush on things that haven't cost me money to buy and can therefore be messed up. As you can see I have painted everything that is still on the sprues except the the lights (for reasons I will come to) 79262820-D531-41F7-8895-8A27902D5465 by nomisd2002, on Flickr I was going to go with white with red on the wheel arches and under the doors. I am not sure now. I am now in a quandary as to go white/red, white/blue, blue/white, blue/red or red/blue (the main colour being the first). I have put some red and blue testers on. I am putting the kit aside for a couple of days to address other things that I am working on for diorama, so will mull it over. Suggestions welcome. 6CC37F2A-BA09-4E66-B798-680D1AAAC887 by nomisd2002, on Flickr Overall I am happy with my effort at brush painting. I certainly wasn't after the first coat but it got better. I was expecting to look at the photos and be horrified but its not as bad as I thought I was going to be. I am particularly happy with the seats, which were done with a mix of Vallejo Chocolate, Smoke and Japanese Infantry Uniform - it looks like leather! The metal is Revell Aluminium. DE231C39-C05E-441F-8106-3F12109A1440 by nomisd2002, on Flickr
  5. Badder Thanks for those tips - I will try they stump suggestion. I have done a quick scrub of a small section of the cobbles and it has done the job Yeah, me too VR
  6. I have acquired some DioDump French wall advertisement decals for a building idea that I have ruminating in my head. The thing is you never see one of these adverts in pristine condition. They are almost always weathered, faded, bits missing - take your pick from this selection. I have done the obvious googling on the topic of how to do this with a model one and there is a lot of advice. It would seem that something that is suggested is lightly sanding the transfers before putting them on, others suggest blending it it with an airbrush. I was wondering of anyone has done this and has any tips and suggestions on how to do it successfully? TIA
  7. I am a man who is easily distracted. I was searching for some brick rubble to use on my dio when I ended up on the DioDump website. I had a look around it, like you do, and there were many things that I thought "ooh, thats a good idea" and "mmm, thats nice". One of them was the resin base of a road/railway crossing - I made some quick justifications to myself - "well, if you are going to build dioramas, you will end up with vehicles that you want to take photos of before they go on the diorama, so you need a photographic scene" and "It'll be good practice painting it". So I got one (along with with a whole load of other stuff). I spent the weekend painting it and have got this far Crossing 1 by nomisd2002, on Flickr Crossing 2 by nomisd2002, on Flickr Crossing 3 by nomisd2002, on Flickr Crossing 4 by nomisd2002, on Flickr Crossing 6 by nomisd2002, on Flickr The whole thing was undercoated with Tamiya Aqua colour black then - The road - a base of Tamiya German Field Grey with lots of individual cobbles done in a variety of shades of grey. A wash of Tamiya black liner was then put on and taken off. The road was then dry brushed with white and then attacked with Noch weathering powders (I used white, black and brick dust). I also put some streaks down the middle using a paint from a seller of paints for model railways (whose name escapes but I will check later) that I have had unopened for about 10 years called Oil Spill. It dries like its wet oil oil - it was a bit too shiny so I went over it with a bit more weathering powder. The fields - a base of Tamiya Red Brown and same liner wash. I then dry brushed various browns in different places and a bit of white too. I picked out some of the wood debris and the tree stump with three colours from the Vallejo Wood and Leather set (Wood, Smoke and Japanese Uniform Yellow) mixed in various proportions. The concrete box was painted using Vallejo Concrete. Some DioDump Wild Farmland ground scatter was, erm, scattered and a couple of their grass tufts were added. The railway line - The ballast started off as a base of Tamiya German Uniform Grey which then had a black liner wash put on and taken off. It was then dry brushed with the same base coat again with individual stones picked out. The sleepers had a base of Fresh Creosote (from the same company as the Oil Spill Paint) which was gone over with Worn Creosote from the same manufacturer that was almost immediately wiped off. The inside and outside of the rail were painted with Vallejo Light Rust and the tops with Vallejo Steel. Some dark brown coloured sand was sprinkled in the ballast. Overall I am pretty happy at my first go at this. The rust needs toning down and I am not sure about the colour of the road, its a bit too light. Does anyone have any suggestions for a colour mix for a fresh cut tree stump middle?
  8. I first looked at the photos and thought the rain effect on the floor was genius. I then looked at the photos larger and am utter amazed at the detail. The soaked shoulders on the coat and the wall under the pipe are just stunning. Chapeau.
  9. It occurs to me that whilst I have said what I am building, a reference as to what it is may not be a bad idea. So here is the box art from MiniArt's web site I have started on the buildings, with the house on the left being the first. I went for this first as it has three walls so is the most complicated bit. For once I have RTFM. I have watched a few YouTube vids of people putting these MiniArt buildings together and almost universally they all seem to do it the same way, which is to take the two halves of a wall and glue them together. They then take two walls and glue them together. And almost to a person they get to the gluing the two finished walls and go "I suddenly found out that there was a piece on the edge of the wall that needed taking off so it would fit into the other wall". The other fairly universal thing that everyone does is using waste plastic put fillets around the window and door openings to mate the two halves of the wall as they have trouble getting them to stay together. I then watched the video that MiniArt have made of putting one of their building kits together and thats not how they do it. Indeed thats not how the instruction tell you how to do it. What they call for is to put the walls together by side (lets call them the front and back for ease of reference). So you glue the back walls together, remembering to take the piece of plastic on the end off so you create a a joint (that probably makes no sense at all!!). So after sanding the cut edges to try and get them somewhere near flat and lots of dry fitting, after two sessions I ended up with this House 1 by nomisd2002, on Flickr There is still one wall left to go on the back (the one nearest the camera) but I am happy with how it has turned out. There are problems - for example House 2 by nomisd2002, on Flickr This is the meeting of three sheets at the top (above the taped edge). I am sure that if I did it again I would be more careful about cutting the various angles to get a better fit. There is also what seems to be the common complaint about these kits - the seems and the way that they need a lot of work and I am not sure its even possible to get them looking good. However I avoided having to fillet the windows and I got all the bits to stick to each other eventually. I am particularly pleased with how the join with tape on i has turned out. I was a bit worried about this as it was essentially very flappy (for want of a better word) and was the last seam I glued. However slowly going up the seam and doing it in small parts and then taping it has worked. I have learned a lot for when I start the church at the other end.
  10. In 2004, I received an early portable MP3 player as a leaving present from my co-workers when I left a job. The whole idea of carrying your music around as electronic files was new and still a bit niche. I took my new toy home and in the company of some programer friends, we set about putting files on the device. We chose the files and pressed transfer. The window on the screen said it was going to take 10 minutes to move the files from the computer to the device. "10 minutes!" I bemoaned, "why so long - they are not real, its just ones and naughts, it should be instantaneous". My friends laughed and explained that these ones and naughts still need to go through a process of going down a bit of cable from one device to the other. You may wonder why I am telling this seemingly unrelated tale. Well, its illustrative of my trait of impatience with things that should be given more time. Things like glue. Last night I went armed with my glue gun to see if I could sort out adhering the base to the MDF. I went to pick up the base that I had unsuccessfully tried to glue and it wouldn't move. Apparently all the very thin CA that I was using needed was patience and just needed a bit more time to work. However as you will see from the photos, it has caused its own secondary problem Dio 1 by nomisd2002, on Flickr Dio 2 by nomisd2002, on Flickr As I walked away from it thinking that it hadn't worked, I left it with a gap from the middle onwards. Some of it has been filled but the gap at the back (ie the top of the first photo) is a bit too wide to fill with model filler. Das or Milliput would work but I have neither. However its on a bit of earth so the plan is to use a bit of ground work texture paint. I was going to try and build it without such stuff and just use the moulded detail. However needs must. There is also the possibility to use other types of ground cover - static grass, weeds etc etc - to hide it. I am sure it will become obvious once I get to it. Finally a shot of the first placement of the elements to see if they work how I pictured them in my head. I think they do. Dio 3 by nomisd2002, on Flickr
  11. Little progress has been made on the actual dio part however I have now started all the other elements and am recording them all in the relevant WIP areas One small piece of progress is that I have made a decision with regard the bases and how to support them. As I had some off cuts of 6mm MDF lying around I have gone with this option. I have cut the two ends away and cut the MDF to size. However when I went to put them together, I found out that I don't have any glue that will stick the plastic to MDF! So I now need to find an adhesive that will do this without destroying the plastic in the process. Is a hot glue gun going to be too much for the plastic?
  12. I am building this as part of my "return to the hobby" project. Its going to be part of this diorama (this also gives a bit of background to my thinking and ideas) At the weekend I started the build on the tank Tank 1 by nomisd2002, on Flickr Tank 2 by nomisd2002, on Flickr Tank 3 by nomisd2002, on Flickr I have to say for a model that according to the date cast into the hull is 42 years old, it is remarkably easy and satisfying to put together. I didn't find any issues getting this far. Indeed, I am happy to say that everything that should turn and move at this point, turns and moves and didn't become accidentally glued together, something the 40 year younger me never seemed to achieve, so I think progress has probably been made.
  13. I managed to put them together at the weekend Figures 2 by nomisd2002, on Flick They were built left to right. Overall I am happy with what I ended up with. I am not entirely convinced with how the heads have ended up - it took me a couple of figures to work out how to place the heads in a natural looking way. I am still not convinced but I am satisfied enough. I have since gone back to them and done the small amounts of filling - all of which were needed because I couldn't get the pose without some small gap appearing. The only figure I have a problem with is the woman - I think I have made her too tall but I couldn't work out how to get the skirt on without become taller!
  14. I am apprehensive..... I wouldn't ever call myself a beginner at model making as even though I haven't done this sort of modelling for 40ish years I am not without practice. The first post in this gives an idea of where I am coming from However figures is something that I have no experience in at all. 1:76 and 1:87 figures are just too small to even think about doing anything with but getting ready painted ones out of a box and placing (yeah I know there are people who will paint them and even 1:144 scale ones too but...). So I am coming to this completely cold. Obviously the putting the actual figures together is straight forward but its the painting and weathering where it appears the art lies. Anyway here is what I am starting with Figures 1 by nomisd2002, on Flickr Deep breath
  15. Thanks for following. It makes complete sense to do a relief cut. I think that I have changed the permissions on the Flickr album so its available without logging in (I hope!).
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