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About ElectroSoldier

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  1. Classic Fujimi 1:16 Ferrari Testarossa. nice expensive kit. Or it would have been had the auction taken it there, I sniped it in the last few seconds, so he had no time to bid it up. So he just tapped the box closed, stuck an address label on it and posted it. Still looking for a kit for the collection but now I have a nice cheap one I dont mind building
  2. https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2505460.m570.l1313&_nkw=emek&_sacat=0 https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/1188/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=emek When I think of models that you build yourself, and would talk about on here I cant say I would consider Emek at all. So what you are saying is no Italeri dont built an S Series at all, they only build the R Series and they are arranged into families like I said?
  3. Emek are pre built and dicast which is why I didnt bother. So the Italeri Scania R series Streamline is indeed the latest model that Italeri model then?
  4. Rich how do those relate to models you can buy today?
  5. Its difficult to fully understand what you mean. The Italeri Scania family of trucks isnt hard to follow really There are not very many options to build different variants if you do not want to use any conversions. With conversion or scratch building you can build anything you like. Im just about to start a Scania R series Topline twin steer double drive (8x4) with an extended chassis that has an HIAB, a hook loader and a 5th wheel. but Ill start with IT3858 kit and use conversions and scratch building to do it. What you call a Scania S I take that to mean a Scania St
  6. The parts fit isnt bad for the time. They arent insurmountable especially with all the nice putties and fillers we have these days.
  7. Yeah my missus wasnt happy about the overly large size of my BOne either... I started work on the wings a few years back to drop the flaps and slats, she took one look at it realised how big it was going to be started dropping hints and that one slowly moved further and futher down the pile.
  8. Same here. It was the Zwilling that made me do it. I just saw a review of an HE-111 and thats the one I want to build but if I build it first I know the Gigant will get left out so thinking tactically
  9. You say Flow Improver, thinking about Vallejo in particular. Have you tried a drying retarder? Maybe its drying up in the nozzle as you are spraying it. I usually roll with a little of both to get more time and a nice even lay in paint, but the primers I use neat from the bottle. Ive tried several of their primers and not had a problem with blocking up. White can give tip dry which might give the effect of a lose nozzle (bubbles in the paint cup) but blocking the paint channel Ive never had. Its normally pretty stable stuff, I use a HP-CS, HP-CH or an HP-SBS as a rule (ive a coup
  10. Thanks dogsbody thats great. It seems even on the later kits there isnt a call out for the interior colours. I had guessed a canvas colour or similar if not then just something like RLM 02. I searched google myself and came up with those above as part of my research into the plane to make it The kit is the original kit, with the original instructions, its been in the stash all these years since I bought it. Thanks for the effort though guys
  11. Hey guys. I was hoping somebody could help me. What Im really looking for is a complete modern copy of the instructions that come with the Italeri 321 glider version of the Gigant. I have a rather tatty copy but the colour call out is all of 4 colours, they didnt have the colours back in the 70s... I would really like a complete scan so as to know what parts are what colours and particually the interior as I intend to go to town on it with some troops and equipment... Incidentally does anybody know what gun s, bikes equipment could be carried by it, I wouldnt mind a nic
  12. There is no ideal air pressure for any paints. I dont know why people bother to tell us what air pressure they use at all, it makes no differences what so ever what pressure they use, it just makes them look like they know what they are talking about when they tell you I always use about xx PSI when I spray xxx paints. The best pressure is the best pressure for the paint at the time you are using it. Play with your airbrush, get it to a nice thinned level consistency and then play with the pressure settings on your reg, see what happens to the spray pattern when you change it
  13. I knew it was a mistake to make such a statement. Yes, some but not all the Sparmax and Iwata compressors have a tank too. Some of them dont. They are the ones you need to stay away from as modellers generally want a constant flow of air qhich means those on demand compressors will be always on, so offer no advantage for the cost.
  14. Its really hard to diagnose the real problem... You might be pouring good money after bad if I advise to get a more expensive compressor, or the compressor might be ok its the airbrush thats at fault. Its always the problem when you buy cheap though... A compressor without a tank isnt a good idea, the modern ones from Sparmax or Iwata dont have one but are designed to provide on demand, even then I dont like them because of that. These cheap chinese ebay, wish, amazon etc airbrushes are ok for the money but the money is stupid low in most cases. If you like airbru
  15. Vallejo do Drying retarder and Flow Improver. Put a bit of that into the paint as you mix it up or drop it into the colour cup. It will help smooth it out and should help stop it clogging up. That being said as nice and thin as Vallejo ModelAir is you should try thinning it first before you try the above.
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