Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

343 Excellent

1 Follower

About Fox_Two

  • Rank
    New Member

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Michigan, US

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Here's the det cord SVG file. https://easyupload.io/ktdes4
  2. Made the cut myself. I'll absolutely pass on the SVG when I get the chance.
  3. This is the Hasegawa AV-8B, Kit #07228. Built OOB with the exception of: Scratchbuilt (printed/cut) canopy det cord, using a Cricut Explore Air 2 SuperScale Decals #MS481249 I've built a few harriers but was eager to try a different paint scheme. I came across VMA-513's CO which is (to my knowledge) the only US harrier with some color in their scheme with the blue tail. I got hooked on it. Not to mention I never really see many modellers depicting this. Hasegawa has a kit depicting this specific scheme (#09815) but it is rare to find.
  4. The slats are molded separately so it will save time on attaching them. The attachment point is small enough that we can leave it on and just angle the slats down. To fill the gaps, on both the slats and flaps, I tried three different fillers and neither of them were good. This included sheet styrene, tamiya putty, and milliput. I eventually settled on Milliput as you can see in the images. Once dried we sand smooth and rescribe a large panel line to indicate the demarcation line where the flaps deploy/retract. Here is a shot of the flaps that have been rescribed.
  5. Here's where we're at with the wing modifications. First, remove the flaps using a razor saw. The flaps are two pieces on the real aircraft so we have to cut out those portions as well Next, we sand out grooves (I used a round metal file) to allow space to insert the flaps. This gives it a more realistic look and won't extend the size of the flap. Next, fit and glue the flaps in position. Finally, we sand smooth the hard edges at the top of the flaps to give it a more rounded shape. Then we fill the gap and
  6. ...and here it is sanded down. Also the 2nd part of the gear bay is installed underneath the fuselage.
  7. Plasticard cut to size and put in place. I then sanded it smooth, filled in the gaps and panel lines, sanded smooth again, and then rescribed the lines. I forgot to take a picture of the finished job though and will update this post with it when I can.
  8. As I'm working on filling the gaps and damage done by the gear bay I also wanted to close up the speed brake. Like a lot of kits where things are "deployable" (gear, speed brakes, flaps, etc.) usually dont fit right when retracted. The speed brake is no different. There are a lot of gaps around it along with a depression where one piece is higher than the other. On the real F-8 this is a flat smooth area. Ignore the two sharp gaps on the speed brake as those will be filled in when the rest of the gear bay is installed. Although that will need filling as well. You can also see the m
  9. As long as you're not stupid like me there should only be a very subtle step and gap on either side. But DONT fill it. It's supposed to be like that as the gear doors essentially sit in the gap flush. So you don't need any filler. My mistake caused such a misalignment that I had to fill it in flush
  10. No build ever completes without some sort of royal f*** up. In this case we have three so far. All of them stem from sealing the two fuselage halves together without more dry fitting. 1. As always I forgot to add weight to the front end of the fuselage. I really need a large LED sign telling me to ADD WEIGHT in front of my bench. Luckily I don't think the F-8 is rear heavy and shouldn't tail sit when built. If it does, I have some deluxe liquid gravity i can pour in the front intake (which has a sealed end). 2. I forgot to install the top fuselage wing bay. For whateve
  11. IF you can strip them without cutting them - because they are so thin. I've been having a helluva time doing that. I've resorted to burning the insulation off.
  12. Added some detailing to the wing bay. I really need to get some better wiring. Up close the larger wire is starting to fray. I should just suck it up and get some lead fishing wire as opposed to twist electrical (speaker) wire. It really won't be too visible as the deployed wing hump isn't that high. But it's enough detail to make it interesting if you peek quickly with a pen light.
  13. Work on the cockpit is complete. Both the seat and the IP are pretty well detailed. I would recommend forgoing the decals and just paint and drybrush everything. It's 1/72 scale so the details are insanely small. The seat is also pretty basic but it does include the ejection handles which a lot of 72nd kits don't even include. For the tub the instructions call for Dark Gull Gray and afterwards I gave it a dirt wash.
  14. Yes! I stand corrected: https://www.scalemates.com/kits/academy-12559-f-8p-crusader-french-navy-last-flight--1139425 Not sure how I missed that.
  15. This is a project I've been really itching to do after first completing this kit about a year ago. You can review my old build HERE (which also includes some thoughts on the kit). The kit comes in two flavors, VF-162 "Hunters" or VF-103 "Sluggers". My first build was the Hunters so in this one I'm going to do the Sluggers. In addition there were a few things that I want to do differently in this build. The slats are separate but not the flaps. All in the retracted position. This is wrong when building the kit wing "hump" up as the flaps and slats drop in conjunction with th
  • Create New...