Rob K.

Hi, Airbrushed the nose tip and anti glare panel. Masked and painted the exhaust area with AK smoke metallic, but noticed it doesn’t take well to the super chrome silver from Mr Color. It remains tacky and still hasn’t dried well. Picked out a few panels with Mr Color fine silver without any problems. Also had a look on the Mr hobby website and noticed that for the super chrome silver they recommend a water based gloss coat, in contrast to some of the other metallic shades which do take to their GX lacquer based clear coats. Guess Alclad aqua gloss will do as well. Anyway, here is the result. Still no decision on the final scheme. That’s all, thanks for watching, Rgds Rob

Had the same issue and in my case it was also the seal of the nozzle cap. I purchased a new seal and the problem was solved, but after a year or so the problem re-appeared. I then used the tiniest amount of beeswax on the thread of the nozzle cap and that also solved the problem.

Hi, Decided to stick with the Mr Color products and airbrushed the Voodoo with the super chrome silver 2. It airbrushes very nicely. I am quite ok with the result. Little bit of orange peel, effect, but I blame that on the Tamiya rattle can fine primer which I failed to polish well enough in fear of loosing more rivet detail. Should have used mr Color surface primer with the airbrush prior to laying down the Ueno black coat. The Mr Color super metallic coat feels very tough/hard and I don’t think it will come off easily. We’ll find out soon with masking. To get some difference in metal shades, I airbrushed the chrome silver on a few loose parts like the flaps straight on top of the grey primer. Still not sure which NMF scheme to go for. Apart from the kit decals, I have the Almark sheet, which allows me to choose Sun Run versions No2 and 3: or go with the kit decals: Although from what I gather, the Taiwanese one is a converted 101-A and has slightly longer burner cans which would eliminate that livery? (Since I shortened the kit exhausts) Have no idea about the quality of either Kittyhawk or the Altmark decals. Anyway, that’s all, thanks for watching. Rgds, Rob

Thanks Mick, Makes good sense to use AK’s own black base coat I guess. Perhaps a good reason in this case to stick with the Mr Color products. Scribing was done mainly in the primer coat using automotive Xuniea tape as a guide around the curved parts and HIQ tape for the less curved and straight surfaces. Scribing with a JLC razor saw blade, the Trumpeter tool and an ordinary mechanical pencil with a cut off bead pin at the end for the use with templates. Rivets with the Rosie the riveter tool. Rgds, Rob

Thank you Geoff. Hopefully it shows all ok with the metal coat as well. Hi John, Thanks. Agree AK is good paint. I used it on my Sabre build below for the most part and liked the metal shade: I find though that touch ups with the polished Alu, often show a difference. The Mr Color Metallic appears to be a little more consistent upon testing. Also, the AK at times rubbed off a little around the edges through handling on previous builds and can re-activate after using one of my favourite clear coats mr Color GX. We’ll see what we decide upon. Couple of months ago someone used the Mr Color metallics 2 on a NMF build. Trying to find it, but so far unsuccessful. Rgds, Rob

Hi John, Nice progress, starts looking quite nice. Rgds, Rob

Hi, Since my last post, I restored the panel lines and rivet detail. I also polished the grey primer coat and airbrushed the model with Mr Color Ueno Black in preparation for the Aluminium coat. Haven’t quite made up my mind whether to use my usual choice of AK xtreme polished Aluminium or whether to try Mr Color Super Chrome Silver ( have not used the latter yet). Restored the panel and rivet detail, especially around the intakes (where there are a lot). Used the outline of a decal to cut a template from plastic card to scribe the in flight fuel receptacle cover which is not visible on the kit: The result: And filled and sanded the fuel tanks. Despite sanding with a sponge, the cylindrical shape has some unevenness in them. May leave it this way though. Still need to re-scribe the panel detail of the tanks: That’s all, thanks for watching. Comments, critique welcome as always. Rgds, Rob

Thank you @RidgeRunner. Difficult to get the top of the port side inlet looking ok though. Still not there. Rgds Rob

Hi, Gave the Voodoo a coat of Tamiya fine grey primer. Was a little too enthusiastic and the primer pooled on the top fuselage which I had sanded earlier. The same occurred on the port side top intake section of the wing root. Have to go back there anyway, since it revealed a significant step which will have to be filled and sanded. The starboard side intake looks much better. Will leave it to rest for the primer to harden first. The uneven primer surface on the port side: Starboard side looks much better: To be continued, Rgds, Rob

Hi, Blended the intakes back into the wing. Hopefully the primer coat will tell if done so sufficiently. There is a lot of scribing to be done to restore all the lost panel and rivet detail. By the way: Thanks to @billn53 for your comment above. That’s all for the moment. Rgds, Rob

Hi, Continuing with attaching the various parts together. This progresses relatively quickly as I use quick setting glue and then reinforce it with thin CA cement mixed with gunmetal pigment so I can see where it flows. There is a lot of filling involved, but the filler is also built up layers of the CA mix since for now I am planning on a Metal finish. This excludes my usual (porous) fillers. Now working on trying to blend the earlier sawn off and modified intakes back to the wing roots. This will be probably one of the more challenging parts of this build. Hopefully I can show the result tomorrow. That’s all, thanks for watching, Rgds, Rob

Hi John, Thanks. I was pleasantly surprised it worked. Regards, Rob

Hi, Attached the front camera and cover. The front camera cover does not fit outright. It was reshaped, trying to maintain the flat side surfaces. I also revisited the area near the side windows since the earlier polishing had distorted the flatness somewhat. Hopefully the shape of the nose is ok: Thanks for watching, Rgds, Rob

Hi, Continued with some work on the Camera bay today. made the effort to paint the camera bodies although they are not really visible. Positioned the camera’s and fixed them permanently and cut off the excess plastic strips. This is what the cameras look like through the windows. The bottom window still needs filler and then sanded to blend in after which I will polish it back to transparency. The nose cone window was placed and the gaps filled with a CA mix and also sanded and polished. Will have to bring back some of the rivet detail around the window. That’s all, thanks for watching, Rgds, Rob

Hi, Tried to find some way of incorporating the cameras and have some control over the final position exactly in front of the windows. This is what I came up with 🤔 I placed the cameras in long brackets: Drilled some holes in the bulkhead to receive the brackets (with a lot of miss drilling): The excess styrene strips on the rear end of the bulk head are used as small levers to position the cameras exactly in front of the window at the right distance. (At least that’s the theory) Once in position the cameras will be fixed in the bulkhead with some thin styrene cement or thin CA and the excess strips cut. Then I hope to end up with something like this: The front facing camera should be a little more straight forward and a lens can be glued directly onto the front end. The cover can then be placed on top. Fingers crossed it will all work out, but first the inside of the camera bay will be painted black. Will have a look at the camera colours with possibly a silver/chrome front ring of the lens housing so it stands out, with some black for the lens with either a drop of UV or future or similar to simulate the glass. That’s all, thanks for watching, Rgds Rob

Sure Tony, no problem at all. I get my tricks and tips all the time from reading the W.I.P. threads here on B.M. (and the YouTube channels like Plasmo, Primed Modelworks, Paul Budzik off course and this amazing Model car guy; A4 Garage - and I don’t really do cars) That Spiteful project sounds really interesting. I learned a lot during this conversion. Was never really into Spitfires, but am now. Will keep an eye on that NN660 when you start! Rgds, Rob

Very kind Chris. Thank you for the feedback along the way. Regards, Rob

Hi John, Thanks, your feedback was very helpful. I am still working on the RF-101 voodoo, but since I usually have two on the go, I am leaning towards a Monogram B-26 Marauder. Got a lot of the goodies including 3D printed engines. Or I go for something simple O.O.B. Thank you George👍 Thanks Tony and I am looking forward to your early Spitfire. Rgds, Rob

Great Mitchell 👍

Hi, Been trying to do some weathering, without taking any real chances of spoiling the model. All of it was done with the Tamiya weathering powders. The advantage is that they are removable by a moist brush when I went overboard. The underside: The top fuselage apart from the exhaust I treated with another set and used mainly the “snow” in order to lighten some of the panels. Hope it shows. Also the spinner and blades were treated the same and smoothed out or corrected in some cases with a large brush. Although difficult to see in the image. I think I am going to call it finished and will follow up with a “RFI” soon. If I were to do this again (which I am not), I would pay a little more attention to: 1. The engine cover in front of the windshield. It was my intention to have it ever so slightly raised as shown in the YouTube Budzik video, which I did pay attention to. However, in the process of making it fit, the cover in the end blended in instead of being slightly proud or raised if that makes sense and had to scribe part of the contour back in. 2. The gunsight. Forgot to place it before putting on the windshield. Lost it the part all together and scratch built a not so original alternative. 3. The use of Maskol. When masking the transparent hood, I used Maskol in between the masking tape. I had previously used “looks like glass” from deluxe to coat it and the two don’t go together due to the ammonia content in Maskol. The good thing was that it was easily recoverable by letting it sit in some water and household ammonia, which is still readily available to buy from “The Range” stores in the U.K. 4. Making the windshield lip of the Airfix cover fit straight away for the Eduard part. Best not use the Airfix windshield. It is slightly wider and although it should be possible to bring the two outer ends together, mine didn’t and cracked. The nice thing about this build was that I discovered the quality of the Airfix parts. I was nicely surprised about the detail and I will surely look at some of the more recent releases. Perhaps a Sea Fury, Mustang or Buccaneer. This was also my first Eduard kit. Very nice details, but soo… many parts. All and all an enjoyable build and impressive how both kits lined up so perfectly with the drawings I used. Carrying on with my Voodoo build. However, since I most of the time have 2 kits on the go, I may start a Monogram B-26 Marauder with some after market sets I purchased in the last few weeks among which 3D parts for the engines and covers. Thanks for watching and appreciated all of your advice and comments along the way. Regards, Rob

Hi, Not planning to do much, but I guess the underside could do with at least some more pronounced weathering: Rob

Hi, Here a few pics. Still some further (light) weathering to be done on the underside, wheels and perhaps a little more around the exhausts. The light isn’t that great. I’ll make some better images tomorrow. That’s all, thanks for watching, Rgds, Rob

Thanks John, Yes, the gunsight is on, but I am ok with an approximation. Had to modify it anyway once more, since the connection was cut off on the wrong end. It’s better than nothing and hardly visible. Regarding exhaust: I am still adding bits of weathering every now and then, but am afraid of overdoing it. Doing everything with the Tamiya weathering sets at the moment so corrections (if overdone) are relatively easy to achieve. Think it is just the Orange underside light and windshield mirror left to install. (I hope) Rgds, Rob

Hi, Forgot to put the Eduard gunsight in before I put the Wind shield on. Been trying to insert the piece very carefully with a pair of bendy tweezers. Then the piece was ejected from in between the pinchers and nowhere to be seen. The Airfix piece is not a straight fit anymore, but I made my own gunsight using part of the Airfix sight….🫣Just hoping I can attach it without damaging anything.😬Or I may leave it out. Oh, and I messed up the Orange 🍊 light at the bottom. (Where did I hear this before?) Luckily the Tamiya clear orange came off easily after an alcohol bath, so salvageable. That’s all, thanks for watching. Rgds, Rob

Thanks John, The exhausts we’re painted silver with a rust wash and some Tamiya powders: Thanks @bigbadbadge, @Cees Broere, @Thom216 ! Rgds, Rob