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Iain Ogilvie

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Everything posted by Iain Ogilvie

  1. Hi Mike, I've just read this - and opened the kit I bought in 2014 - and, guess what, I'm missing that sprue!! Don't suppose you still have the 'spare' do you? Happy to exchange for beer/plastic vouchers... Iain
  2. I'm mirroring the build thread from Large Scale Planes here on Britmodeller too: Iain
  3. Hi Matt, Long time, no speak! The 'kit' includes pre-cut 'windows' in a thin, clear, material (along with frames in white plastic). I could have used those as patterns - but easier to mark and cut new ones to fit as the openings have been sanded to remove print texture and this way, I know they fit perfectly. I've gone for thicker material so they end up as optically 'flat' as I can get them - and blended in with surrounding fuselage. It's no biggie! Iain
  4. Yes - recess is really useful. Needs cleaning up and deepening a little - but I'll be skinning with 0.25mm PETG before masking the windows. Corrected tail is still out IMHO - and I'd still be cutting up as I have so far (I have one of the corrected prints). Iain
  5. With a fresh supply of 1.5mm clear HIPS sheet I thought I'd take a break from sanding/cutting/reinforcing big chunks of ABS and have a play with a glazing - to see if this particular cunning plan was going to work. I'll let you guys be the judge by the end of this post. The quality of clear parts can make, or break, a model and so I usually spend a lot of time on a project trying to get these as good as I can get them. I try to use the most suitable material for any given purpose. The fuselage windows I'm going to do as a single strip each side - so wanted a clear, non-yellowing, plastic that would easily conform to the single curve of the fuselage - and could be glued to the ABS fuselage prints with solvent. So - 0.25mm UV Stabilised PETG sheet will be used. For the cockpit windows I wanted something absolutely flat and distortion free - and something I could use wet and dry followed by polishing with Novus Plastic Polish. PETG doesn't like sanding/polishing at all - but HIPS does - and at 1.5 mm thick substantial enough for shaping and to hold it's flat shape on fitment. Add to that the trick of 'edging' the clear part with a permanent marker that I've been using for years to make neat edges, as well as create the impression of thinner 'glass', I thought I might have the tools to make a go of these. Cutting the first window: An oversize section was laid over the window aperture and the edges marked on the surface with a new scalpel blade. The section was then trimmed back using Tamiya side-cutters to within about 1mm - then the edges taken back with the T-Bar sander - bit by bit, with lots of trial and error - as well as corner rounding, until it fitted absobl**dy perfectly - even if I do say so myself! Here it is just press fitted in position - took about an hour - but hopefully looks OK! Final bonding will be with a little solvent touched into the corners and into the joint - followed by a polish. So, I think there's another challenge sorted, perhaps... Blue skies! Iain
  6. Just a few bits and bobs - I've been mainly trying to find reference material on the interior AEO's position in the E3 Variant - as well as any more tailplane detail - and still drawing a few blanks. I think I'm getting there with the tailplane - with the various elements/angles/interfaces now making sense, after some surgery and scratch-building: And some filler-primer on the interior of the tail: Another update to follow in a mo... Iain
  7. Hiya John! Yes - she'll be an E.Mk 3 of 115 Squadron - late '80s as we used to see them a lot: Iain
  8. I'm loving my 1:32 Andover project... It turned out to be far better than I expected - and I think Toshihiko is getting some really good print results - I was very pleased. I'm looking at mine as a canvas - a basis rather than an end in itself. Yes, lots of sanding, but easier than a vac, or resin, kit IMHO - and surprisingly light as most parts are printed hollow. I'm really pleased that I bit the bullet and ordered one - I never, ever, expected to be building a 1:32 Andover! There already a link to my project above, but I also published a 'review' over on Large Scale Planes. I'm with MB - haven't worked on a project that's been so rewarding for ages - but it does/will take a lot of work. Iain
  9. OK - I was planning to put this away this afternoon, but got sidetracked and ended up following more of Baldricks 'cunning plan' and creating more parts by cutting up existing ones! The tailpane... The sections of elevator were removed from both the inner sections of tailplane (removed from the fuselage tail earlier) and the separate tailplane sections themselves. This was really hard work on the inner sections as the 'skin' is quite thin here - and I had to do some re-bonding of broken sections afterwards. The outer sections were an absolute walk in the park as they are printed mostly separated along the hinge line and so the main cuts have to be made to the hinges. So, more parts: And then, well, I had to glue something back together - so I now have mostly complete port and starboard tailplanes and separate elevators - to be left for a few days to harden off: Deffo taking a break now... Iain
  10. A little more progress bubbling away this week - but I'm going to take a break from sanding for a few days and pick up on some other projects for a few days... More primer on the tail - and a start made on opening up the slots for the tail door hinges: And yet more sanding of detail areas on the tail interior - with home-made 240 grit sanding sticks to get into nooks and crannies: Interior fuselage sections after initial clean-up and a coat of primer - can see what I'm doing now! Note - these are photographed upside down so I could capture more of the relevant detail: All external aerial details, along with external hinges and rain channels have been removed - to be replaced with finer detail later in the build. And getting ready to remove the internal sections - to be re-arranged later: And, whilst everything out, I couldn't resist a quick fuselage shot! Too big to fit on the photo background I normally use at home: Oh, and after a bit of a search, a stock of 0.25mm/10 thou clear PETG sheet has arrived - more on this to follow... Have fun! Iain
  11. Hi gang, Apologies for lack of posts - a bit more progress: Several areas I'm keen to find info at present, as well as anything that might help with the tail area, the most immediately required was to confirm the internal Layout for the E3/E3A conversions as it looked like there was a second console added next to the navigator's position for the AEO that managed the approach calibration equipment. To that end, Ebay came up with some help, for very little outlay, in the form of three old period publications from the 70s/80s: Most useful for the Calibration E3 versions was the following: Unfortunately the quality of magazine photographs/print has improve hugely over the years, and many of these images are a little grainy, but they do help! The latter article certainly confirms the different internal layout on the 115 Sqn airframes - if not the specific details. I've just joined the 115 Sqn association page on Facebook to see if any ex. members have any suitable details. But - it is progress, as I've made some decisions regarding the internal sections as printed - and need to get some fresh scalpel blades out for more cutting. Iain
  12. Indeed - and a very distinctive sound those Darts made! Have you seen the 1:72 verion that One Man Model are selling? Iain
  13. Hopefully it'll end up somewhere worthwhile! Reason for posting here, as well as a British subject (last of the Avro's?), I'm sure there will be a few members of this parish that will have acquired the 1:72 and 1:48 versions - so any challenges/issues will be very similar. Iain
  14. Cheers John. I *might* include optional mainwheel leg/wheel assemblies that can be swapped - based on what Toshihiko has provided - but that's something to address waaaaay in the future! Probably Richard - the one that also says 'take on something way out of you comfort zone', or 'look, another squirrel'... Hopefully it's of some interest over here - I'll keep posting updates as and when - but this will be a long-term project. I'm currently on the scrounge for any detailed images of the upper tailplane to fuselage interface panels - given the high tail/dihedral it's and area that isn't too well covered - and I'll need the info to do the tailplanes! On a similar vein - need images/details of the vortex generators on the upper surface of the tailplane, ahead of the elevators. Any help *really* appreciated!! Iain
  15. Bringing the thread up to date as of this morning - fresh out of the paint oven airing cupboard overnight: Surface finish is definitely getting there... And the interior structure - huge improvement on where it started - but a *lot* of detail sanding to go. Off to make up some home-grown detail sanding sticks - may be back later... Happy Sanding! Iain
  16. I mentioned earlier about using MEK to smooth the surface of the prints - this was a test I did earlier, flooding the area over and around the port rear door jump lights using a brush and allowing to try off. This was also done to the recessed square section to the right of the lights. Smooths the surface quite well - not perfect - but certainly a better start in hard to sand areas. At this stage all window edges have also been gone around with a brush loaded with MEK. The fuselage sections have ledges printed in situ on which to bond the cargo bay floor - these have been dressed off with the T Bar and 280 grit wet and dry to ensure the floor has good, flat and aligned areas to bond to when fitted: Finished off yesterday evening looking at the interior section and formulating a plan of action for the next stages... Internal sections aligned with the freshly removed forward door: Blue skies! Iain
  17. And, going back to the tail... "I love the smell of automotive primer in the evening, it's the smell of progress!" Or, something like that... Initial primer coat on the tail - wet sanded after drying with 800 grit wet and dry: Continuing work on my modified tail section - removing further flaws/joints/panel lines - and the incorrectly shaped beacon failring at the top of the fin - to be replaced later. In addition the hinge sections on the fin have been boxed in top and bottom, then filled with casting resin from behind, which was then cut/filed to the correct shape: On the starboard side I hadn't quite got the surface shape right when I filled/sanded the cut out area - so a little more Milliput and sanding: And with the rudder dry fitted again to ensure we're heading in the right direction: Also made a start on sanding/neatening the internal structure. First I went through with a 10A Scalpel blade - removing and loose 'threads' of ABS - of which there were quite a few. Then the flat areas at the top were given a light sanding, before painting all surfaces with MEK solvent, using a flat brush - as I've found this helps smooth the surface in areas that are hard to get at. Looks rough at this stage - but it is an improvement. The tail was then primed again and off to the airing cupboard to harden off. Attention was moved to the plastic 'infill' sections on the front and rear port-side fuselage doors. These are printed in with the main prints to act as supports during the print process and need to be removed. This was achieved using a fresh 10A Scalpel blade - scoring along the surface about 1mm in from the frame edge - multiple passes and a little patience required here, it does take a while to cut all the way through! After removal the cut edges where filed back to the frame edges and a quantity of MEK applied around the frames to consolidate the surface: And port rear: And both sections placed together - quite a size! Have fun! Iain
  18. Fin bonded in place - and panel lines/joints filled: And with rudder in place - all coming together quite well! Started looking at the fuselage sections - looks like I'll have to modify the front port side fuselage section where the side door attaches at the top, in order to allow the floor section to be slid in after assembly of the fuselage halves. Nose section in place - a lot better since sanding and primer: Note the way the cockpit floor section slides onto support sections printed into the nose section - some really clever thinking by the designer: And now planning how to attack the interior sections: Iain
  19. Hopefully I'm not boring everyone with some of the things I'm doing/finding. I'm learning about the material and nuances of the print and kind of brain dumping here - but can just keep to headline updates... Anyway - have a few more update images - here's the fin in position, now rudder separated: And with the thinned rudder sections loosely in place: Now, back to those tailplane roots... Had been putting this off - but one quiet Sunday I dived in with both feet. Seats were cut for two sections of aluminium tube cut slightly over-length. These were then seated on beds of Milliput to allow time to adjust and, most importantly, align as needed. Superglue would have taken no prisoners. I ended up mounting them a little higher than the internal bed as I think that will give best position for Tailplanes. Bottom of the area was then filled with casting resin, which was allowed to go off (10 mins) before filling up to surface level with Milliput. After a night in the airing cupboard the area was sanded back, flush, with the aid of the T Bar and 400 Grit (and lots of water!). And here with the fin and assembled rudder (partially sanded) dry-fitted to check clearances. Gunze paint pot should give an idea of size! And that trailing edge - now lovely and thin! More cleanup needed - and I needed to line the hinge area with thin styrene sheet - but it's progress - and I started only just over a week ago. Was actually actually making more progress than I expected at this stage... Iain
  20. So, let me introduce Mr T Bar - one of my most useful, and yet most basic, tools! It's a section of extruded aluminium with a handle shape on one side - and a perfectly flat plate on the other. You attach sheets of relevant grades of wet and dry to the flat face with Spray Mount adhesive (removing old residues with White Spirit). I bought it years ago from John Adams (Aeroclub) to help me with vacform projects, but it's been very useful for a huge number of other things. My hope was that the thick trailing edges on the Andover print were actually hollow inside - and the skin actually formed a box, rather than a solid. Well - it is a hollow box! So - scribe a line down the middle of the flat trailing edge in relevant parts with the scalpel blade until cut all the way through. Open up a section at top and bottom of component to allow for flex - and the outer surfaces to bend. Run along this central cut - on the inside of it with a diamond file - until there's enough space to pry the edges apart and insert the side of the T Bar. In this case with 400 grade wet and dry. Sand along one side until edge razor sharp (didn't take much) - then turning the T Bar around in the 'slot' to sand the trailing edge on the other side. This illustrates better: And we end up with this - look at the difference, for not a lot of work! Section at left is the upper part of the rudder removed from the fin, and prepped with the T Bar as above. Section at right is the section removed from the rear fuselage, with the original trailing edge. This made me really, really happy - it means sorting the trailing edges of all the flying surfaces is now going to be relatively straightforward I reckon. A nice glass of vino was quaffed in celebration! Iain
  21. Back to that empennage... A start made on sanding - and panel lines sealed with EMS Plastic Weld ready for filler: Section at the base of the rudder that I filled with casting resin has been sanded flat with my trusty 'T' Bar... I wanted to separate the rudder from the fin (they are printed together). This was for three reasons: to improve the look of the rudder hinge line investigate the internal construction and how easy it was - as I intend doing the same with elevators and ailerons make it easier to try some thoughts I had on thinning the trailing edges of all flying surfaces Here a start has been made - following the printed hinge lines with a fresh 10A scalpel blade: Same comments re. cutting along and across the print lines - and not too much force - the skins are relatively thin here - and you will crack either the surface, or some of the internal structure. And removed. Take care as there will still be internal attachments even when it feels separated: And I now had the three pieces that will make up the (quite large) rudder: This is quite a chunky component - which actually makes working on it easier. Iain
  22. Meanwhile, back at the front end: And with a coat of Halfords Grey Primer: And with some spot filling needed, and removal of the gear doors performed: Material is a lot like wood - cutting with the 'grain' (moulded layers) easier than cutting across - and surfaces need different clear-up depending on the 'run of the grain'. Material is quite tough here and can take a lot of abuse - but also needs a bit of work with the scalpel to separate the gear doors - even though they are printed with a gap along either side. Iain
  23. I also discovered the step at the base of the rudder was incorrectly done - and needed to be removed as the rudder goes all the way down to the top of the rear fuselage - with no 'step'. So out with a 10A scalpel blade again and this was removed. Removal was very straightforward - and we're left with more loose strands of ABS that I'll leave in situ as they'll provide a little extra strength as part of the next step. A small Milliput 'dam' was added at the rudder hinge end and the area subsequently filled with casting resin, after masking the sides and raising the tail so that the area was perfectly horizontal at the top and a meniscus of resin allowed to form before it started going off. This area will now be sanded back using my 'T' bar - so it's perfectly flat. Just working out best positions to bond in some brass tube to act as mounts for the eventually to be replaced tailplanes... Interior structure as printed - note the box structure for the tailplane: Back soon. Iain
  24. So, about these tailplanes... Baldrick: "I have a cunning plan..." Blackadder: "Really, Baldrick? A cunning and subtle one? Baldrick: "Yes, sir." Blackadder: "As cunning as a fox who's just been appointed Professor of Cunning at Oxford University?" Baldrick: "Absolutely, sir." Blackadder: "Oh go on then, I've got nothing better to do just now..." Baldrick: "Well, you know those expensive parts we got from Japan..." Blackadder: "Yes, and?" Baldrick: "Well, we take some of the bits, and we cut them up..." Blackadder: "Which gives us what, exactly?" Baldrick: "Even more bits, sir!" My attempt at humour aside (and apologies for anyone that isn't a Blackadder fan, or even seen it) - but I bit the bullet tonight. Since I spotted the error with the tail planes last week I've been pondering on finding that 'cunning plan' and, well, which ever way I thought it through I would have to remove the tailplane sections as moulded. Concern was two fold: Cutting as close to the fuselage shape as possible... Not cutting through to the internal structure and damaging it. With the knowledge that the kit had a number of voids in it's structure, I was hoping I'd find some here - rather than having to cut all the way through the thickness of the tailplane. Fresh 10A Scalpel blade and I started scribing along the lower tailplane to fuselage interface - multiple passes taking care to follow the surface of the fuselage as closely as possible. After a few minutes work - we penetrated - there was, indeed, a void at the root of the tailplane. A few more runs with the blade to cut through the internal webs and I could feel the tailplane move. So, now I followed the upper tailplane to fuselage interface with the point of the scalpel - until it was all the way through. This was easily repeated on the other side - I now had separate tailplanes - and two big holes where they once were: May not look it in the photos (black plastic is never flattering) - but the cuts are all pretty neat - and there's been absolutely no intrusion into the interior structural details. Now I could think about bolting it all together properly - this will probably involve lots more cutting, some sheet plastic, some brass tube and some casting resin - in no particular order. Iain
  25. I was really pleased when I found that lots of the parts were hollow - it's going to be really useful for some of the things I want to do - but am aware that I'll need to make any modified areas structurally sound - and I have a few ideas around that as I get used to the material. So, about this cockpit section I'd started on? Well. I've had the sanding sticks and wet and dry out (used wet, of course!): And some more: And an experiment with some Revell Plasto filler - worked a treat! So much so that I've now covered all the other relevant areas of this piece so that I can smooth back tomorrow. 'Eyebrow' windows have been opened out. Here's what the inside looks like - removeable gear doors and ledges to fit the gear bay and cockpit sections - well thought through engineering! Iain
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