Iain Ogilvie

EagleCals decals, Hasegawa kit - built a few years ago (just noticed that I need to fix an AWOL nav light cover). Airbrushed with LifeColor acrylics - white distemper over standard camouflage is mixture of Tamiya white and clear - very heavily thinned. Iain 32SIG http://www.skywriters.net

ULAD did a few sheets - now out of print - I have part one and will only build one U-Boat Clicky Figures are of the vinyl variety - but look good. PM me with your address. Iain

Thanks Mike... Do you want some of the spare ULAD decals? Also - somewhere - have Revells Kriegsmarine figs - never going to use them all and there are multiples of each pose. Again - happy to send a doggy bag. There really is no need to go mad on aftermarket on this model IMHO... Iain 32SIG http://www.skywriters.net

Took some pix this evening - not best quality - will try and get some better ones tomorrow. Nice kit - straight out of the box with no additions. Iain 32SIG http://www.skywriters.net

Took some quick snaps this evening - not brilliant quality - model should start to get some paint this w/e...

More positive response here than on ARC - but I guess I should have asked here first! OK - Will make a start on designs this weekend for what will (hopefully) be my first commercial decal sheet (will probably use Fantasy Print Shop to print). Have all the graphics tools and expertise (have been doing my own stuff on the ALPS) - but, yes, I think there's a gap in the market here - I bought both Trump Chinooks when they came out - just for such a project. Have a few Chinook refs - but - yes - any info - especially stencils - would be *really* appreciated. Iain 32SIG http://www.skywriters.net

Doh! Must pay attention, must pay attention... Iain

The last time I used one of Davids sets (the original Tornado Sets for the old Revell kit) I used solder paste, a toothpick to apply, and a cheap pen sized gas torch to apply a gentle waft of pinpoint heat. Solder paste goes from grey sludge to shiny silver as soon as it's melted and solidified. It will also form neat 'welds' along things like the inside joints on ejector seat pans - fold and clamp seat - apply some paste along joint with toothpick/cocktail stick - wave the torch flame up and down the joint - solder should run into joint bu capillary action and form it's one consistent level. Use small file if require top clean up. Make sure mating surfaces are nice and clean before you start. All on an old brick to save the bench and clamped in a small steel vice if required. Really easy, really fast, really strong - and fine for those little pieces... Not sure how widely available solder paste is these days - last tube I bought in the early '90s - must see if I can get some more... Iain 32SIG http://www.skywriters.net

Was thinking of doing a set - posted on the Helicopter area of ARC and got little/no interest... Thought a sheet covering RAF and other non US users might be a flyer - and I want to do an RAF HC.1 myself... Iain 32SIG http://www.skywriters.net

Can you re-send - no sign of it here

Hmmm... Have ca couple of the rRevell boxings in the stash - so can probably help if you can wait until the w/e? Is it for assembly, or decals/colours? Just in case I don't have that specific one? Iain 32SIG http://www.skywriters.net

Not my scale - but all the new stuff I'm interested is pricey as well - as has been said - weak pound. Am sure I'm not alone in starting to go throuh the back catalogue again (the loft insulation) - and it's actually quite therapeutic! Iain 32SIG http://www.skywriters.net

Nearly forgot: You'll prolly find this article useful - I certainly did (includes simple templates for bow and stern internal baffle plates which look great in place): http://www.travel-net.com/~gcauley/U673/index.htm Iain 32SIG http://www.skywriters.net

Hiya, Well - I'm just getting mine ready for paint - all assembled bar props and a few twiddly bits... I too was tempted by pressure hulls, laser cut decks and photo etch flood holes but in the end just got some CMK figures and the WEM photo-etch set - and I've ended up using very few parts from that! The biggest improvement in these models is opening up the flood holes in the hull halves and opening up those in the deck. It's actually not difficult - but *very* time consuming. I used a rounded scalpel blade (well - quite a few as they kept fatiguing!) and thinned the hull and deck components from the inside. You'll need to be brave as areas of the deck become almost paper thin in places. Don't forget the long openings in the hull sides at the top of the saddle tanks - this makes a big difference. I used black card and plastic sheet to blank off some of the interior area and used plastruct and sprue sections to suggest some detail. I can confirm that very little/nothing can be seen unless your opening deck hatches so the resin pressure hull is not really worth it IMHO and, I hear, doesn't fit too well anyway. If I were starting again I prolly wouldn't bother with the photoetched either - use stretched sprue instead. Oh - am using the ULAD decals for U-96 of Das Boot fame - if you want any of the others from the sheet let me know and I'll pop 'em in the post Will try and take some pix tonight... It's proving to be a brilliant cure for AMS for this aircraft modeller! Just wish I hadn't paid full price several years ago - and I was tempted to get another from ModelZone - one hell of a bargain. Iain 32SIG http://www.skywriters.net