Iain Ogilvie

Brilliant shots - thanks for posting! Wasn't even aware there were any T2s already in service - I know - I really should keep up at the back... Iain

Yeah - right - all I need - a bl**dy comedian! There will be some progress - I promise - but my magnum opus for this year is the Ju-52 - I *really* daren't get sidetracked 'cos I'm really BAD at doing that Iain

Try it on an old bit of plastic painted with matt paint. Add a few spare decals and let 'em silver away - then experiment with above method Unfortunately I have no before pic - but this is my 1:32 Trumpeter F-100 - painted with Xtracrylix, followed by Xtracrylix gloss varnish. Kit decals silvered quite badly in places - repaired using judicious scalpel and thinned varnish. Started by piercing the decals with the tip of the scalpel where there was surface detail underneath - then a few places where surface was flat... All hidden under a coat of gloss varnish, an oil wash. and a coat of matt varnish. Iain

I'll bring some gold stars to Telford Mike

Hi - yes - I remember talking to you! Still haven't found that Hawkeye - I must have sold it at some point... Will you be at Telford this year? Iain

Nope - and I've used this method successfully with enamels too... I have had parts of the decal try and float away though - usually when I've made a few too many cuts with the scalpel - and then it's a case of staying calm and fixing I don't use aggressive thinners like cellulose - just water with acrylics, or white spirit with enamels. Important to allow everything to dry before further top coats though - I normally allow a few days... Pretty well always worked for me - others mileage may vary - as the say! Iain

Good spot - never noticed that before... Iain

Looks like a pretty HOT model! I'll get my coat...

Looking good! I know just how basic those mouldings are - really looking forward to seeing your progress Iain

Hi Jes - I hope you realise I'm making it all up as I go along! Iain

Happy to put my name forward for Handley Page... Iain

Somebody please remind me that starting a 10 minute job at 10pm - that will take two hours and a lot of stress - is not a good idea! OK - first pass black oil paint smeared all over the hull and polished off with kitchen paper and cotton ear buds - and knocking off half the handrails in the process: Conning tower not done yet - hopefully you can see a difference? Surface detail really starting to 'pop out' - just not sure if she's going too dark... We'll see. Next stop some detail painting to the conning tower - a black wash - then some very small rust stains... Iain

That's lovely Mike... I too like the green bazooka plates and wheels - makes the subject very visually appealing... You may get me building targets yet! Iain

I'm a plain and simple tap water kinda guy when it comes to Xtracrylics - and no problems at all! It's cheap - and easily available Only issue (common to all acrylics I've used) is drying on the airbrush tip on prolonged spraying. Have just acquired some Windsor and Newton Flow Enhancer which I'm gonna try with the water... Iain

Can't wait to get hold of one of these BTW - Anyone want an ID Vac - I now have one surplus to requirements! Iain

OK - Try this - it can work well... Lightly score the surface where the decal has silvered with a sharp scalpel blade - just hard enough to 'cut' the decal... Take your favourite gloss varnish and thin - I use Tamiya clear acrylic varnish for this kind of thing - thinned at least 50% - and drop small amounts on the surface scoring you've just done using a fine brush. You should see the thiunned varnish run under the silvered area by capilliary action. It may take a few goes - andd some light re-scoring with sharp blade - but it does work. You're trying to fill the 'void' that's causing the silvering with varnish. Once all dry apply final varnish of choice. This should also work with any other acrylic varnish properly thinned - and possibly Johnsonson Klear as well. HTH - and it's never too late to fix Iain

Have Daylight Bulb Company anglepoise magnifier/lamp - swear by it! Best modelling budget ever spent - well - next to my Iwata I guess... Iain

Can't remember exactly - I think it was a Poundstretcher type shop - wasn't expensive. Yes - it's a lot better than the cutting disks - especially on resin... About the thickness of a razor saw: This is the set: Just packing up for the day - and lots of chores not done yet... Still - I think I'm making progress - just over two months to go in the GB - we may just make it yet! In the words of Rolf Harris - 'Can you tell what it is yet?' Couldn't resist taping some parts loosely together to get a feel for her! Looks like a Ju-52 to my eyes Iain

Always thought the 112 had nice lines - looking good! Iain

Excellent work - how do the two kits compare? Iain

Erm - did you hear something? No - why - did you... Erm - I though you realised you were running a Care in the Community programme? Blimp - thanks - I think I've got it sussed now Bear in mind the underside will all be re-skinned in currugated sheet... Hatch marked 'actual size': This year my analyst says I'm allowed Power Tools - so - break out Dremel (and face mask) - circular saw: Next tool: Cutting through resin fro reverse - it's a bit thick! Hatch opened out 2mm all round to allow for the plastic thickness for the 'internal detail' box I'll be making. Slots for spars marked up and clamped in workmate: Half an hour widening slots with file - and Bobs yer Uncle - just need to tweak slightly: Next step is to mark out and cut slots in the spars to allow the floor to sit at the right height. All for now folks - must run - have a joke I've been dying to tell myself! Iain

Scrub thread - I think the Revell kit is wrong... Iain

Having looked at everything I have I'm pretty convinced Revell have got it wrong - and the square hatch needs to be moved back so that it's front edge lines up with the front edge of the larger cutout marked on the Revell parts... This then gives a single square opening above the 'bin' - in the right place - and no opening above the bomb aiming kit. The photo we have of the interior only shows one hatch on the floor - the detail above shows one square cutout directly above the 'bin' and the pick we have of the ventral bin from the side appears to support this... There - I've convinced myself - I think... Iain

Cheers Blimp, That last pic I posted appears directly abover the bin - and looks square to me... That larger panel looks more like the ventral 'luggage bay' used on the airliner? <scratches head> I'm going to do a dry assembly of the Revell parts and see if I can work this out... Relaxing hobby.... Pah... Iain

Thanks Smeds - that's a given... It's the two areas to cut out 'between' the bomb bays (marked B on the mouldings) that I need confirmation on - assuming I need to cut both out and one spar running between the two? And that the hatch above the ventral hatch isn't a square as I had assumed? Here's a pic looking down through the hatch directly above the 'bin' - looks square to me?? Iain