AltcarBoB

Well I have done a search on the forum Hurricane K5083 brings up 22,373 results and "Hurricane K5083" brings up 3 results. Tried several other variables and pretty much the same can anyone point me in the right direction I am not a Google Blackbelt.

I have googled looking for a 1/72 kit of the prototype Hurricane K5083 without any joy. Does anyone know if such a kit is available or if there is a conversion kit to suit. Failing that does anyone know of a step by step article on converting a readily available fabric wing kit into the prototype.

Vallejo website has colour charts that you can download https://acrylicosvallejo.com/en/hobby-color-charts/ Also look for IPMS colour charts. If you're struggling with Tamiya drying too fast you can try an acrylic retarder which slows drying time. I have used Winsor& Newton acrylic flow improver.

Never used one of these but looks useful https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/233655259138

I know it is but it doesnt seem to be right the access to the Botha cockpit looks relatively easy and simple. Plenty of room I can see that getting from the quite small looking portside access door which was by the trailing edge then under the main spar might be a bit of a squeeze crouching or hands and knees but nothing compared to the infamous Lancaster main spar. I remember reading that the pilot access into the Boston Maryland/Baltimore was a fearsome scramble onto the wing then onto the fuselage and carefully lowering oneself into the cockpit at which point it must have been 12 feet or more to terra very firma

I read (can't remember where) that the Vickers type 161 fighter was the original of the story https://images.app.goo.gl/VL9HV3jaZrGWuwHC7

Thanks, I went on the W&N website and their seemed to be about 5 things that said they were Matt varnishes. Very confusing.

Just before I press the button can I check this is the stuff to get.

I had a look and there seems to be two W&N Matt varnishes. Matte medium and Matt varnish. Which one do I go for

White tack is the stuff but don't leave it on for longer than needed. Definitely don't do what I did put it on, put it safe in a cupboard then leave it for a month because I forgot.

Ultimate model primer is my go to primer. https://www.umpretail.com/collections/ultimate-primersi It's Badger primer relabeled

I would start by trying a cotton bud dipped in warm water first. Always start with the mildest option going nuclear with IPA is the last stage

I salute you with a slightly paint smeared hand. 🤗 I find an airbrush sucks the enjoyment out of painting in a ratio of 10 parts fun to 1 part paint.

Go for it even if you make an absolute stinker you will learn so much. I came back to the hobby last year after a 35 year break and my first couple of builds look very dull compared to my last couple. In the last year I have learnt so much but the best lesson I have learnt is give it a go.

I think I will be able to assemble the parts for the build with the help of @Graham Boak but I struggle to visualise things without the physical parts in front of me.

About a year ago I bought an RSmodels Kawasaki Ki100 high back version. When I bought it I had a quick look inside the box and popped it on the shelf. Today I opened the box to start construction and within a few minutes spotted a problem. The fuselage mouldings are for the later low back version but the canopy is the high back version. So I need either the correct high back fuselage mouldings or a low back canopy can anyone help me. I thought it would be easy to buy a vacform canopy but an intensive Google session doesn't bring anything up.

Never let the facts get in the way of a good story. For the 1960s/70s a multi pin cylindrical lock was very advanced technology. Even today they can't be picked without specialist lockpicking tools.

Not much room to hit the arrestor wires on the MAC ships. 😨

I have been using Gorilla Glue gel flexible superglue the one with a green cap. It fills joints that are up to about 2 mm wide and when hit with the kicker spray sets quite soft and stays soft enough to file with an emery board for about half an hour. Even when it's gone off for 24 hours it's still soft enough to feather the edges, it doesn't seem to set like concrete like most superglue. It doesn't shrink in my experience and seems quite tough, it can also be drilled. It's not cheap but my local Tesco supermarket recently had it half price and I got 5 bottles which are now stored in the fridge.

What thickness did you buy. I want some shelves 970mm X 220mm which will be supported on the back and side edges. I don't want the shelves to bow I am thinking of 5mm thick.

I fitted my windows by holding them in place with masking tape inside then gluing them with varnish spread all over the glazing. I left it to dry for a few days then sanded everything flush with 400 grit then worked my way up the grits to 4000. Then a quick rub with a cloth. Clear smooth windows.

I accidentally got a knock off set off ebay and they were junk so I threw them out and bought a set of Titanium coated bits from Proops. Apart from the 0.45mm bit which wanders when you try to start a hole they have all been good.

Problem with sticking with say Tamiya or new Airfix is you never learn new things it's just following the instructions and gluing parts in the right order. I recently built an Airfix B5 Kate it's a lovely model but I then built a Chorosy Modelau Breda B28 resin kit and enjoyed it a lot more. I have learnt a lot in the last year by building mainly short run kits or ancient kits. Nothing like matching parts that only vaguely resemble the instructions 🤪 or fit together only with the aid of a hammer. For the ultimate learning experience build a vacform kit if only to learn new swear words.

Modelsvit have a good reputation but they are not for the inexperienced. I believe A&A is their less detailed brand using older moulds. Probably be fine but if you're buying from Dave Coley their customer service is 2nd to none.

I received my copy five days ago but it's been taken off me and I won't see it again till Xmas 🤣