AltcarBoB

After a short time in service I imagine a mix of oil, fuel and dirt would turn any engine paint into greyish brownish dirt colour.

It might have been a tiny shop at the front but if you went through the door it was pretty big. My dad was a VAT inspector in the 1980s and Hattons was on his patch. He said it was an absolute warren of little rooms stuffed to the ceilings with stock. The main problem for the store was parking for delivery and collection by Royal mail.

I feel conflicted about Hattons closing. I spent a lot of money in the shop and then online but they put a lot of model shops in Britain out of business because they sold models cheaper than the small shops paid wholesale from the manufacturer/importer. Every model and hobby shop owner must have dreaded the phrase "but Hattons (or any big online retailer) do it cheaper" We are reaping what we sow and I am as guilty as anyone who loves a bargain.

I have noticed that a good quality Junior hacksaw blade will last a long time if only cutting mild steel even cutting stainless steel a good blade will last. I had to make some small cuts in 3mm Medium Density Fibreboard and a brand new Junior blade was ruined after a few cuts that totalled about 30cm.

I was told in the model shop that Liquid Green was the best thing for filling joint gaps particularly wing roots. I bought a jar of it and opened it a few days later, I seem to have a jar of gritty green porridge. Is it supposed to be like this or does it need any water adding.

Years ago when small drill bits were expensive and hard to get hold of we used to use a heated pin or needle to make holes in clear and coloured styrene. It works and is less likely to crack the canopy but requires a steady hand and nerves of steel to do it. Get some new high quality bits and drill smoothly.

My last 3 builds I have used Ultra Violet setting resin. It's optically clear but takes paint quite well, it can also fill small gaps. I mucked up the first time I used it but I carefully split the joint with a new 10A scalpel blade scraped off the resin with a fingernail and reglued.

From a thousand feet up a cricket ground looks tiny and they are usually surrounded by buildings or big trees.

@nheatherJust spotted these. https://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Dentsply-Maillefer-Swiss-Made-------332shank-Vanadium-Steel-Drill-Bit-Set-Of-12,-0.5---1.6mm-Diameter-prcode-999-0419?tmsb=ldo1qkf&tmrl=if0p0vn&tmsl=new-pp-recs-for-you-sidebar&tmty=w&tmcv=131&tmcs=1xubjre

@nheather found these definitely not cheap but look like they are good quality https://www.drill-service.co.uk/products/drills/micro-drill/dmicro-hss-micro-drill-on-230mm-reinforced-shank/

I have had some of those black jobber drills that were so wobbly you could drill a square hole.

Another alternative is Carbide drill bits that are used to drill circuit boards. They are very sharp and long lasting but they don't like any side force. If you even look at them sideways there will be a ping noise. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00C3YD1HK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glc_fabc_Q48ZV7CRGT9RNDCRA9FG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

If you want sizes from 1mm upward you could try Tracy Tools. https://www.tracytools.com/drills-hss/metric-straight-shank-drills/straight-shank-drills-10-30mm I have a set of their taps and dies and they are good quality.

The best of the microbox style bits I have found came from Proops Brothers. They're still generic Chinese but they are Titanium coated and seem to be lasting a bit longer than the usual ones. The packaging has changed but these are the ones I have https://www.proopsbrothers.com/proops-hss-titanium-coated-20-mini-drill-bits-sizes-03mm-16mm-m0201-1384-p.asp

Lovely job 👍 I have never tried a 1/72 AFV kit I really must have a go.

Lovely job.👍 I have always thought looking at the Austin that I wouldn't want to go round a corner at anything above a walking pace. Narrow wheel base and heavy armour plate must have made it sway like a sailing ship in a storm.

I was aware the kit has some flaws but I haven't done any research yet. Thanks for the information 😊 So far all I have done is buy a pair of resin Pegasus engines.

I have a Matchbox made in England Stranraer in the stash.

The Supermarine Stranraer served throughout the war with the RCAF. I read somewhere that for air sea rescue work the Stranraer was preferred to the Canso (Canadian built Catalina) as it handled better on the water

Please tell me you were not using a naked flame to burn the needle clear. That stuff is highly flammable 😬 it's a small Molotov cocktail

I have used Contacta for years it's good stuff. I would suggest you keep a fine wire handy to poke out the needle I find it clogs quickly if you leave the cap off.

Every time I finish a kit I always realise where I could have done better. I don't think any of us could claim we couldn't get better.

I look forward to seeing the build thread it's a little known subject. Has anyone ever worked out what was wrong about the design. It didn't seem to handle any kind of flying, taking off or landing. Apart from a surprisingly small wing for a flying boat and a habit of losing a wing float I can't see anything wrong with it.

Looking at the background of the photo everything looks slightly distorted. The photo could have been copied many times and become distorted.

Decided I won't have a go at this project. Got too many kits and projects on the go.