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Posts posted by Faraway
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'ere we go then.
I didn't really know where to start, so I've done the smallest assembly. The Guns.
Thank all the gods that there are only two.
Next I'll mask the hull and give it a coat of black.
Jon
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43 minutes ago, longshanks said:
Now a question for the jury. Left painted. Right au natural.
Left. Best of luck with Sea Thrift, you could always make it Winter, then no flowers
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I found this......
In the 19th century, shipping companies began using a mix of red and green lights to indicate the port and starboard side of their vessels.
For example, in 1834 the City of Dublin Steamship Company started using white masthead lights, green starboard lights, and red port side lights.
But in 1836, the P&O Company of Southampton began using green port navigation lights, and a mixture of red and green lights on the starboard side.
This confusion continued until the Steam Navigation Act of 1846, which decreed that all British vessels must use red lights for the port side and green lights for the starboard.
This system was then adopted by Prussia in 1853, and France, Austria, and Hungary in 1858.
Later, in 1889, the United States convened the world’s first international maritime conference in Washington DC, where a further 27 seafaring nations signed up to Britain’s red-green system, which became effective in 1897.
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@Wez thanks for this video, interesting.
Jon
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5 minutes ago, Ngantek said:
Looks very nice. What are we up to, build 12
? I was very taken by @robgizlu's Starling HMS Surf here and in the newsletter, which certainly disabused me of the idea that subs might be a little bit dull. I know almost nothing about RN subs of this era, although IIRC there was a lot of interesting stuff about HMS Totem and experimental submarine tactics in the post war years in The Silent Deep, which was a good read. Looking forward to it!
Andy
It was @robgizlu build that pushed me to get this one, although I won’t be doing it on water.
Jon
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39 minutes ago, TonyOD said:
Another fab addition Jon.
As I type I’m sitting on a ski lift in Austria, will update the list when I’m home.
Thanks, go easy on the Glühwein.
Jon
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THAT is a stunning looking ship.
Did you find out where to put the Port & Starboard lights ?Jon
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After all the tiny detail on the USS Admirable, I thought I'd try something a bit (?) simpler. So here is my next offering to this GB.
@TonyOD if you would be so kind and add it to my 'to do' list, that would be great.
I don't anticipate staring for a couple of days, but I shouldn't be long.
So, here are the bits.
The Hull, hard to see but the detail is very good.
The Conning Tower or Sail.
Various bits and bobs.
Decals and PE. There are a couple of gun barrels but they are VERY small, so don't actually make a good photo.
First task is to go shopping, as I've used up all my wood and brass rod for my bases.
See you soon.
Jon
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Never will I complain about parts on my 1/350 builds being too small.
You really are making a very good job of this.
Jon
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2 hours ago, flashlight said:
@Faraway Congratulations, Jon! Awesome result! As a plane and vehicle modeller watching all your beautiful ship builds of the GB makes me feel like I want to build a ship too! I am very tempted.
Thanks Nick.
If you can build planes and vehicles, then why not try a ship ?
Jon
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Very neat PE. In fact the whole build looks excellent
Jon
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58 minutes ago, Bobby No Mac said:
Typically, the instructions are a little vague and part 'F' doesn't exist.
I found the same with my Shipyard (same company, different name) model. Although sometimes they quote a part that is actually further on in the instructions, and not a stage that has gone. VERY confusing.
Jon
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USS Admirable AM136 an Admirable Class Minesweeper.
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And it's done.
Very many thanks to all of you who have been kind enough to follow along, your views and comments are most welcome and do help enormously.
What's next ?
I have no idea, I'm going to take a short break, tidy my work room, play a game on my PS4 and have a think.
See you soon.
Jon
The paint was from the ColourCoats range, from Sovereign Hobbies, as are the draught decals
C03 Matt White, C02 Matt Black, US41 Antifoul Red, US39 Deck Grey, US09 5B Thayer Blue.
These colours are what she wore when serving in Alaskan waters.
Jon
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7 hours ago, Alan P said:
Have the pictures disappeared or is it just me
They seem to do this sometimes, I’m not sure if it’s what you view them on or the photo host.
Jon
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3 hours ago, ArnoldAmbrose said:
air-scoops.
Ventilator
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Those railings !
Stunning.Jon
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Thats the deck finished, now all (?) that's left are the masts and a bit of rigging.
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22 minutes ago, TonyOD said:
Tamiya stepped up a bit with their new Mk I with the inclusion of an etch sheet.
I did not know that, there might be hope for the mass producers yet. Just have to wait for them to included some 3D printed parts.
Jon
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@Ray S got to say, you are creating a stunning ship. I have to keep reminding myself that it is 1/700.
How long is that hull ?
Jon
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7 hours ago, ArnoldAmbrose said:
the sharing of ideas and knowledge.
I wholeheartedly agree.
Like you, I’ve learnt a huge amount from the members of this forum, not just from looking at builds, but also from asking questions. People here are so willing and happy to share what they do and explain it.
Jon
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22 minutes ago, TonyOD said:
Alynbank is looking great. I get the impression that with these ship builds you can go as crazy as you feel like with the microdetail.
Very much so.
It does depend on the manufacturers as to how much detail you get for your money. The, what I call ‘independents’ like Starling, Black Cat and Atlantic although more expensive on the face of it, you don’t have to add anything as it’s in the box. And also are far more accurate.
Tamiya, Revell etc, tend to be less expensive for the kit, but if you want to add better detail, guns, railings etc then you must look to the aftermarket suppliers.
And, in my experience, you don’t get the accuracy from these mass produced kits.
Jon
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I had a gun day yesterday.
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HMS Tabard T-Class Submarine Group III (1/350 Starling Models)
in The Salty Sea Dog GB
Posted
And that's today done.