Jump to content

Faraway

Gold Member
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    2,805

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Posts posted by Faraway

    Sopwith Camel rigging question.

    in Aircraft WWI

    Posted

    7 hours ago, Black Knight said:

    On gluing; I use Rocket Rapid superglue and a 'glue loop' to apply. The superglue sets in just a few seconds and I can get a 1/72 or 1/48 jobbie rigged up fairly fast

     

    PS. Might I add; the RAF wires on a 1 1/2 Strutter are about 3/8 inch wide by 1/8 inch thick - an estimate as I wasn't allowed to touch them to measure them. In 1/32 a flat elastic about 0.4mm / 0.5mm wide unstretched will narrow down upon stretching and be about the correct size

    I thought I’d give a UV curing glue a go. Tried activators and found they could go off a bit quick.

    Sopwith Camel rigging question.

    in Aircraft WWI

    Posted

    1 hour ago, melvyn hiscock said:

    I have just recently come up against the same thing. I bought very thin monofilament for round rigging wires. I am in hospital at the moment so cannot measure it (or photograph it which would also be useful) but got some that was very close to 0.015 and some that is definitely thinner (we just went to a lighter breaking strain as this was from a fishing shop). I shall have to try and measure this with my Lidl calliper when the wonderful NHS release me. There is definitely a visual difference in the two types I have, and the small stuff looks fine on fuselage rigging. Fuselage cross wires would be turnbuckled but I think an overscale turnbuckle looks much worse than none at all and you generally can only see the top ends on the fuselage rigging when it goes together.  Someone on here suggested heat stretchinh good old plastic drinking straws so they can just be slid  over the monofilament. I may give this a go for the elevator or rudder wires where the turnbuckle is at the elevator/rudder end clear of the aircraft, so no panels have to be removed to adjust.

     

    As for RAF wires, prym is just a brand that is not easy to get in the Uk. I simply walked into a wool shop in Portsmouth and asked for the thinnest rectangular ‘knitting-in elastic’ they had. It is used with wool to make stretch tops on socks ìand stuff without having to resort to the old-style multi width ‘knicker’ elastic of times gone by. The lovely (absolutely stereotype knitting shop type lady) sorted me out with something and the whole lot, plus the running around probably cost me a fraction of what the named stuff would have.

     

    I will report more when I have escaped from Stalug Luft Queen Alexandra, and if you thought they had it hard at Colditz, try digging a tunnel from the 6th floor oncology ward!! Joking aside they are excellent in here.

     

    Oh and as was mentioned above, the whole streamlined wire acts as its own turnbuckle, each end fitting is opposite threaded. Using a padded too to slip over the flat section, it is turned from both ends, so that it remains sharp side onto airflow. I do have pictures at home but....

     

    now, back to my NHS issue hot chocolate

     

    I found the Prym that WNW recommends on Amazon.

    Get well soon.

    Sopwith Camel rigging question.

    in Aircraft WWI

    Posted

    1 hour ago, Bear Paw said:

    There is a lot of good advice here and will add my little bit. 
      I use EZ Line and Uschi.  Like someone said the larger sized EZ line is flat if not stretched too much.  Uschi stretchy line is circular and I use the thin and medium line for the thinner rigging. I find the Uschi line difficult to use due to the electro-static charge it seems to generate?  It sticks to my tweezers!
      I do not use any turnbuckles as they all appear too large to me?  You can allude to buckles with paint if you need to.  
    The only other thing I use is the eyelets from Bobs Buckles inserted into pre drilled holes.  

    This makes rigging very straight forward for me. I insert them before I construct the model.  

    http://www.silverwings.pl/reviews/tipshowtos/biplane_rigging/Biplane_Rigging.pdf
    Thanks for your input Bear Paw, I didn’t realise this rigging task was going to get so complicated, if I haven’t bitten off more than I can eat, it’ll keep me busy for weeks. I found the above link as to how to rig an aeroplane. I take it, when using Bob’s Buckles, you trim them to length to suit the depth of the wing they are attached to ? I’ll need a fair few for this Camel, I have to say though the task looks very daunting and that the rigging drawing on the Wingnut Wings Page for this model is not very helpful. Do you use a single size of line for all rigging and control cables ? Any further advice you can offer will be most appreciated, as this is going to be my first attempt at building a WW1 biplane.

    http://www.wingnutwings.com/ww/productdetail?productid=3150&cat=4

     

    Sopwith Camel rigging question.

    in Aircraft WWI

    Posted

    10 hours ago, Bazman said:

    I'm currently rigging up a WnW F2b and I've gone for Prym knitting elastic for the flat wires (as suggested by WnW) and appropriate sized fishing line for the round wires. Apart from the obvious online sources the Prym can be bought from Hobbycraft in the UK (in the sewing section) and the fishing line from anywhere - I think mine came from Decathlon. The elastic is easy to use as long as you avoid twists, but on the downside it doesn't add any strength to the model. As others have pointed out the flat wires shouldn't have turnbuckles, instead having a sort of built-in adjuster at each end that's short and little thicker than the "wire", so if you don't use them it will be easier and look more like the original. For the control line turnbuckles I'm trying some Gaspatch turnbuckles and some PM etched ones, but may leave these off as well if neither looks right.

    Thanks for this info. I’ll use the Prym for the flat wires. Not yet sure what I’ll use for the rest.

    Sopwith Camel rigging question.

    in Aircraft WWI

    Posted · Edited by Faraway

    2 hours ago, JackG said:

    EZ Line has already been mentioned, but will add this product definitely has a flat cross-section.  It`s more noticeable in their heavy size (advertised as 0.5mm).   The flatness is easily seen when there is a twist in the line, so watch out for that.

     

     

    regards,

    Jack

    Thanks Jack. Do you know where I can get EZ line ?

    Sopwith Camel rigging question.

    in Aircraft WWI

    Posted

    Thanks to everyone who has answered. As always, this forum has not let me down, it’s a mine of information. The turnbuckles, I think, will be a fiddle too far. The old eyes aren’t what they were. I will probably get two diameters of rigging, possibly from here. I think this subject is very open to interpretation, as to how accurate you want to be. I’m building kits for my enjoyment, not to be exhibited.

    https://www.scalemodelshop.co.uk/products/accessories/auxiliaries/rigging

     

    Sopwith Camel rigging question.

    in Aircraft WWI

    Posted

    I’m moving from WW1 armoured vehicles to WW1 aircraft. So I’m about to start building a Wingnut Wings Sopwith Camel. (this could be a bit of a challenge) I see from the build instructions, that they show different diameters of rigging line for control wires and structural rigging. Also, they suggest using a flat aerodynamic rigging. My question is, is it necessary to use different diameters, or can I get away with one size for all.

    http://www.wingnutwings.com/ww/vA3D3379A/www/products/model_kitsets/32070/online_instructions/32070 Sopwith F.1 Camel BR.1 Instructions.pdf

    WW1 vehicle tyre colour

    in AFV WWI & Interwar

    Posted

    40 minutes ago, Das Abteilung said:

    All culled from sources on the web about tyres and synthetic rubber with a bit of digging around.  I was planning a couple of WW1 wheeled vehicles and so thought I'd better find out for myself.  This question of tyre colour has come up a number of times on this and other forums.  Noting the aircraft model link above, I imagine the same applies to WW1 aviation tyres too.

     

    I was at Bovington the other day and noticed that the solid tyres on their Peerless armoured car - apparently original or period - are very black.

    Black indeed, I had a look at it online. But I’ve done mine now, and only this morning put them on the axles. So grey they will stay. Still got the CSM Lanchester to work on, so maybe it’ll get black tyres.

    CSM Lanchester A/C, Persia 1916

    in AFV WWI & Interwar

    Posted

    On 22/08/2019 at 20:03, Shermaniac said:

    Absolutely couldn't resist this one and picked up a couple of the CSM Figures to act as crew.

    A brilliant kit from Copper State Models. So much so, I have 2 more.

    Completed 21st April 2019

     

    spacer.png

     

    spacer.png

     

    spacer.png

     

     

    Excellent model. What colour did you use for the body ?

    • Like 1

    Romfell Panzerwagen WW1, CSM 1/35

    in Work in Progress - Armour

    Posted

    On 20/11/2019 at 15:49, Duckwizard said:

    The latest pictures from the build (sry I am slow).

     

    For now I glued all hatches and doors in closed position with easy to remove wood glue, even though I will show most of them opened in the end. This will make the painting easier (I hope).

     

    The instrument panel is (a bit) scratched.

     

    The body parts really fit extremely well. Big prais for copperstate.

     

    spacer.png

     

    spacer.png

     

     

    I see when you fitted the hatch to the Crew compartment, you removed the handles from the catches, as per the build instructions. I was wondering why this was necessary ? Then it occurred to me, that perhaps it was for security. The crew would have a removable handle to insert into the catch, open the door and then secure it behind them once inside. Maybe ?

    • Like 1

    Meng MK V exhaust

    in AFV WWI & Interwar

    Posted

    6 hours ago, Das Abteilung said:

    The top run of the exhaust pipe across the hull top might have been wrapped with asbestos "bandage". Some Mk IVs certainly had this. I used thin masking tape on one of my Mk IVs.

     

    It is plausible that the exhaust pipes might have been galvanised, one of the few corrosion protection techniques then available. A dull metallic grey rather than bright.

    My thoughts are the same. Dull grey and then dry brushed dull red.

×
×
  • Create New...