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Faraway

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Posts posted by Faraway

    To dip or not to dip ?

    in Paint

    Posted

    1 minute ago, f111guru said:

    Faraway,

    To be honest, I've never dipped or clear coated my kit canopies. I've always buffed them out with a mild rubbing compound such as color back. It takes the imperfections out and gives a great shine. I've also used it on the kit to take out any sanding marks and helps at least for oil based paints to adhere. Just my thought, I'm very old school. Sorry this doesn't help on your question.

     

    All The Best,

    Ron VanDerwarker

    As you say, it doesn’t answer my question. But you have given me food for thought, in that, the canopy with the kit is of quite a high standard already. So maybe a polish will suffice. I might try the dip, mask and paint on a spare part and see what happens.

    Many thanks for the answer.

    Jon

    To dip or not to dip ?

    in Paint

    Posted

    First I apologise to admin if this in in the wrong place, but I’ve searched the forum and can find no where to post this question.

    I’m currently building the Tamiya P38 Lightning (most excellent kit by the way, almost doesn’t need glue). When I get to the canopy, I’m hoping to dip it in a Klear like liquid, to give it a better shine. Also of course I’m going to have to paint the frame work, that won’t be too difficult, as I have a sheet of masking stickers. But, if I mask the canopy then paint the frame, then remove the masking and dip, all my matt paint will go glossy. Not good.

    So, do you reckon I can dip before masking and painting ? Presumably, the ‘Klear’ will not interfere with the paint or masking material.

    CSM Nieuport

    in Aircraft WWI

    Posted

    35 minutes ago, europapete said:

    Hi Jon, also check out ww1aircraftmodels.com, a great site for us wierd biplane modellers. Scroll down the home page until you see the forum banner and click on that. Regards, Pete in RI

    Cheers mate.

    CSM Nieuport

    in Aircraft WWI

    Posted

    15 minutes ago, europapete said:

    oops, should have read the title, sorry. The Nieuports were not finished in a " bright silver" as much as regular dope with aluminium powder added. This gives a dull greyish/ whiteish silver, so I would suggest a light grey undercoat, with a topcoat of dull silver mixed with a bit of light grey or white. Also look through the work-in-progress section here and read how others have painted theirs. Hope this helps, Regards, Pete in RI

    Very helpful, many thanks.

    Jon.

    CSM Nieuport

    in Aircraft WWI

    Posted

    The build is progressing well. But on the horizon is painting, the wood prop etc isn’t (I hope) going to be too much of a problem. What I’m wondering about, is the fuselage. It’s supposed to be aluminium dope, in other words a silver aircraft. 
    Now do I spray the aeroplane flat aluminium and then dry brush with black or spray black and dry brush with aluminium ?

    I’m inclined towards the former.

    Any thoughts from you chaps would be welcome.

    Double Deckers - over 40, but life is just beginning!

    in Group Build Chat 2020

    Posted · Edited by Faraway

    I know this should probably be posted somewhere else, but it sort of fits here. So, firstly Happy New Year to you fellow rigging phobics. I got to thinking, as I started my little Ford Model T Australian Army Car from ICM, that three four wheeled kits in a row is going to get boring.

    So I bought the CSM Nieuport XVIII Late, thinking an aeroplane will make a nice change of pace AND I can can practice rigging.

    I haven’t even stuck anything together yet, but have already had to fit four pieces of rigging (something to do with the cockpit).

    And I have to say, I got on really well (nobody more surprised then me). I am using Prym 977 770 as the rigging, not sure if it’s super accurate, but it looks good. I drilled tiny, tiny, tiny holes and threaded the Prym through and stuck it using Revel FIX-kit UV activated super glue, which worked well. And then trimmed off the excess, and I’m quite pleased with the result.

    On the back of this, I’m looking forward to making the rest of the kit AND the start of the group build, I think we will learn a lot from each other.

     

    Jon
     

     

    • Like 3

    Making decals less reflective.

    in Decals

    Posted

    2 hours ago, Army_Air_Force said:

    Apply them to a gloss finish and spray matt over everything afterwards.

    The matt colours I have, have no gloss equivalent. So would this method work, by painting the area where the decal is going to be applied with gloss varnish, apply the decal and then spray with matt ?

    • Like 1

    Making decals less reflective.

    in Decals

    Posted

    1 hour ago, Don149 said:

    You could just give the decals a light brush over with satin or matt varnish , or , as I do , give an overall light spray of matt khaki to give a

    dusty finish . That takes care of the gloss bits , remembering to cut small masks to cover the area of the windscreen swept by the wipers .

    An interesting idea, definitely worth a thought.

    Sopwith Camel rigging question.

    in Aircraft WWI

    Posted

    I’ve just got my first spool of rigging material. As per the recommendation from WNW, I’ve got some Prym 977 770, which WNW says will replicate the aerodynamic wire on the Camel. Now this has got me wondering why I’m thinking of using different diameters for control and structural wires, simply because I can HARDLY see this tread, or even tell if it’s flat. So with this thread as an example, I’m pretty sure I won’t be able to see the difference between 0.10mm and 0.15mm, these being the two sizes they recommend. I have much to ponder, as I build for the enjoyment of bring kits to ‘life’. Not to make some super accurate replica.

    Double Deckers - over 40, but life is just beginning!

    in Group Build Chat 2020

    Posted

    11 minutes ago, Heather Kay said:

    Ah, now don’t get too enthusiastic. There’s a process to undergo before we can start building.

     

    I’ve proposed a group build. Now we have to get thirty like-minded nutters to sign up. Pass that milestone, we get into a voting bunfight with all the other proposed GBs. If we get through that, and are assigned a date, we might be lucky to start the build some time in 2021.

     

    Mind you, there’s nothing to stop you starting a build in the usual places in the forum. Much of what Dennis said still pertains, just without the time limit and mild sense of competition.

    Ah, ok. I’ll watch and wait.👍👍👍

    Double Deckers - over 40, but life is just beginning!

    in Group Build Chat 2020

    Posted

    9 minutes ago, Corsairfoxfouruncle said:

    Yes but its also more like friendly party, there is no absolute in a group build. If you finish great, if not it doesn't matter. Just so long as you have fun doing the work. There is often friendly banter, some joking (nothing to serious), friendly advice, and camaraderie if the model goes blewie and winds up in a bin. Other than that its all about the fun and seeing what you can get done in 4 months(3 months for a single type build). At the end anything in the Gallery gets voted as to most popular build completed. Sometimes there is a prize, more often not. 
          There are group builds covering just about any subject. If you don't find one that fits the bill, you or anyone can propose one. Ive proposed 7-8 myself and have hosted a few that got through to a build. I have a few more coming up over the next year. 


    Dennis

    As I thought, sounds fun. Not ready to start my Camel just yet, but shouldn’t be too long, then I’ll have to find a way to post photos.

    • Like 1
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