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Faraway

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Everything posted by Faraway

  1. Very helpful, many thanks. Jon.
  2. Copper State Models, Nieuport XVII late. 1/32.
  3. The build is progressing well. But on the horizon is painting, the wood prop etc isn’t (I hope) going to be too much of a problem. What I’m wondering about, is the fuselage. It’s supposed to be aluminium dope, in other words a silver aircraft. Now do I spray the aeroplane flat aluminium and then dry brush with black or spray black and dry brush with aluminium ? I’m inclined towards the former. Any thoughts from you chaps would be welcome.
  4. I use Tamiya Acrylics, diluted 50/50 with thinners. Always seem to get a good covering on large flat surfaces, far better than brushing on neat.
  5. Faraway

    Intro

    Greetings from the UK
  6. Greetings from the UK. I’ve not been a member here for very long, but have come to realise that the members are friendly and VERY knowledgeable.
  7. Welcome Gary. This forum is has loads of knowledge. I found this site informative for airbrushing. https://www.florymodels.org/new-page-1 Jon
  8. I know this should probably be posted somewhere else, but it sort of fits here. So, firstly Happy New Year to you fellow rigging phobics. I got to thinking, as I started my little Ford Model T Australian Army Car from ICM, that three four wheeled kits in a row is going to get boring. So I bought the CSM Nieuport XVIII Late, thinking an aeroplane will make a nice change of pace AND I can can practice rigging. I haven’t even stuck anything together yet, but have already had to fit four pieces of rigging (something to do with the cockpit). And I have to say, I got on really well (nobody more surprised then me). I am using Prym 977 770 as the rigging, not sure if it’s super accurate, but it looks good. I drilled tiny, tiny, tiny holes and threaded the Prym through and stuck it using Revel FIX-kit UV activated super glue, which worked well. And then trimmed off the excess, and I’m quite pleased with the result. On the back of this, I’m looking forward to making the rest of the kit AND the start of the group build, I think we will learn a lot from each other. Jon
  9. Pointlessly repeated pictures removed An excellent guide to decals, time to go shopping, where do you get Klear ?Very many thanks.
  10. The matt colours I have, have no gloss equivalent. So would this method work, by painting the area where the decal is going to be applied with gloss varnish, apply the decal and then spray with matt ?
  11. An interesting idea, definitely worth a thought.
  12. Simple question. How do I make decals loose their slight sheen on a matt surface ?
  13. A beautiful tribute to an incredibly brave young woman. It is very sad, that so many brave young men and women have no known grave and are completely unknown to us, for whom they sacrificed everything.
  14. Have a look at this thread on WW1 aircraft, I’ve had some fascinating replies. Sopwith Camel rigging question
  15. I’ve just got my first spool of rigging material. As per the recommendation from WNW, I’ve got some Prym 977 770, which WNW says will replicate the aerodynamic wire on the Camel. Now this has got me wondering why I’m thinking of using different diameters for control and structural wires, simply because I can HARDLY see this tread, or even tell if it’s flat. So with this thread as an example, I’m pretty sure I won’t be able to see the difference between 0.10mm and 0.15mm, these being the two sizes they recommend. I have much to ponder, as I build for the enjoyment of bring kits to ‘life’. Not to make some super accurate replica.
  16. As I thought, sounds fun. Not ready to start my Camel just yet, but shouldn’t be too long, then I’ll have to find a way to post photos.
  17. I thought I’d give a UV curing glue a go. Tried activators and found they could go off a bit quick.
  18. I found the Prym that WNW recommends on Amazon. Get well soon.
  19. As I’m soon to start a Wingnut Wings Sopwith Camel, I think I’ll need all the help I can get. Count me in. Jon
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