Faraway
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Posts posted by Faraway
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19 hours ago, Gorby said:
I like making models – that makes me a modeller. Not a historian. My aim is to make models that I like the look of. I don't give monkeys about the 'correct' colours. I fail to understand the mindset of someone who thinks they can dictate how you paint your model. My model my rules – your model your rules. Why the hell does it matter so much, it's just a bloody model?
I had a great time reading your build commentary, especially the paragraph above, that really hit the right note with me. Despite all the problems you encountered along the way, an excellent build.
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N3200 QV No.19 Squadron. Operation Dynamo 1940.
This aircraft was piloted by Squadron Leader Geoffrey Stephenson, to help protect the troops that were waiting evacuation, from the beaches of Dunkirk. After shooting down a Junkers Ju 87, Stephenson was himself shot down. He crash landed on a beach at Sangatte, near Calais, where he was captured. He spent the rest of the war as a POW. After the war he stayed in the RAF, but was killed in 1954 while test flying in America.
His aircraft gradually sank under the sand. It was excavated in 1986, and was restored to flying condition and returned to the air in 2014.
I hope I've done it justice.
Jon.
Bit of work in progress, disappearing detail.
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Welcome Tony. You’ll get lots of help and info on this site.
Jon
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Hello and welcome. This forum has some VERY good modellers, and quite a few who build bikes and cars. This is THE place to come for any questions.
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2 hours ago, Graham Boak said:
Use something like Krystal Klear, or one of the other PVA-based products, which will dry clear. Use it sparingly around the edges only. However normal polystyrene glue used very carefully should not cloud the clear plastic at all, though it will smear at the slightest excuse. It is the superglues that cloud transparencies because of the vapour given off.
I’ve got Kristal Klear, so will work with that, it’s going to be a fiddle especially on so prominent a part. Thanks for the advice.
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I’m building a 1/48 Tamiya Spitfire Mk1, and am at the stage of assembling the canopy. However I have a problem, I need to attach the armoured outer screen to the front of the canopy. If I use normal adhesive, I imagine the clear plastic will cloud, which obviously I don’t want.
If anyone can give me any tips, I will be very grateful.Jon.
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Seat belt finish is stunning, I’ll have to have a fresh look at the Spitfire I’m building.
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1 hour ago, redcap said:
Cracking build and a really nice end result.
In the box it looks tremendous but how was the actual build please?
Gary
I’m probably not the best person to ask, as it’s my first build like this. But, I found the fit of the cockpit parts a bit difficult (didn’t seem as accurate as Tamiya). The instructions were good, but with a few errors. You need to plan ahead and be prepared to drill small holes (0.3mm) for the rigging. You need to fit some wires well in advance of the build and apply decals as you build. I found that the cockpit was a long build, and then all the details disappeared, when the fuselage was assembled around it, so all the wires from joystick and pedals are never to be seen.
Best advice i can offer is don’t rush and read the instructions at least three times.
If I can be of more help, don’t hesitate to ask.
Enjoy the build.
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56 minutes ago, Toryu said:
Excellent detail, and a fantastic prop! It seems you 'risked all' and produced a fine model.
I am pleased with the prop, couldn’t believe that I got the finish first go, had to go away, or I’d have fiddled and spoilt it. I ‘risked all’ to put that decal on, TWICE.
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First attempt at this scale, 1/32. I used Vallejo Aluminium Dope to paint it, which was ok but very delicate. And as for the 'Risque Tout' decal, that was the most delicate decal I have ever had to apply. I still don't know how I did it.
Going to have a rest from Biplanes, and do a Spitfire next.
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First Propeller I've ever painted, came out quite well, I thought.
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It looks good. I remember struggling with faces on the figures I used to paint. You’ve made a good job of this one. What kit is it and what scale ?
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1 minute ago, Gary Brantley said:
...but close enough! Great looking model; very nice work Faraway!
That sure makes me want the kit too. I know I'll never grapple with the old Monogram 1/48 P-38 in my stash, I've heard too many horror stories about it. But this one? Oh yeah, I'd love to get one and wish for results this nice.
Gary.
Very good of you to add such nice comments. It is a great kit to build, the parts fit so well, that when I dry fitted the top of the boom to the bottom, I had a job to separate them. You hardly need any glue. And the inclusion of steel balls as nose weights is a brilliant idea.
Jon
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It's not exactly armoured, but it does have a gun.
Very easy build, not over the top with hidden detail, I have to say I enjoyed building it. Enjoy.
Jon.
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That is excellent. Makes you just want to climb that ladder.
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Sweet. Lovely job.
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Very nice. Good to see a spitfire in an unusual livery.
Gives me thought for when I start mine.
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2 hours ago, djos said:
Not perfect....but great
Only....some more details about model will be good
Best regards Djordje
Tamiya 1/48 P38 Lightning. The seat belts and tyres (which showed a flat spot, as per real tyres) were from Eduard. The parts for the plane went together really well, so much so, when I dry fitted the wings upper and lower surfaces I struggled to get them apart again. Nice touch was the inclusion in the kit of three steel balls, to act as weights for the nose. Great kit, well worth getting.
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2 hours ago, exhausted said:
Which scale?
1/48 Tamiya P38 Lightning
1 hour ago, Steve27752 said:Very nicely done 1/48th?
Yes
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9 minutes ago, Harold55 said:
I have to agree that it looks pretty good. Wonderful job on the cockpit and see no flaws in your first attempt at the airbrush! Very nice indeed.
That’s very kind of you. I was a bit disappointed with the cockpit, I spent hours painting and assembling it, dirtied it up with some weathering stuff. The instrument panel was really detailed. Then put it in the fuselage and put the canopy on and all the detail disappeared. Seems that a lot of our work on detail, disappears on assembly. But I guess it’s nice to know it’s there, and it is rewarding.
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3 minutes ago, Gorby said:
It looks pretty good to me.
Thanks. A few flaws in the painting, it had a bloom on the last coat of Matt varnish. Not sure what the cause was, but I’ve managed to (sort of) get rid of it.
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Not perfect, but my first attempt at airbrushing and building this scale. I've learnt a lot, but with lots more to learn.
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38 minutes ago, Tail-Dragon said:
I always use Future (or Klear) on my canopies - I use Zap-a-gap to attach, and it prevents fogging. I have found that if I cut the future 10-20% with water, I get a much better finish, and leave them dry for 2-4 days to harden, and the masking material leaves no marks at all. If you mask sooner than that, you will end up stripping them and starting over! (ask me how I know!)
As far as I can figure out, we can’t get Future/Klear in the UK. Or at least I can’t find it.
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7 minutes ago, Gorby said:
That's what I do when I can be bothered to dip, but it needs to dry for at least one day before you attempt to mask (preferably more). Also, I sometimes give it another quick dip after the masks are on, which helps reduce the paint bleeding underneath the masks. This does make it a little more difficult to get the masks off at the end.
When you say 'Klear like liquid' what do you mean?
This stuff https://www.lakeland.co.uk/20286/Quick-Shine-Floor-Finish-800ml
I’ve used it on an armoured car to stop the decals silvering and it worked well.
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Matt varnish
in Paint
Posted
A while ago, I asked how to get rid of or stop, the white ‘frosting’ on models after spraying with a Matt varnish. Despite all the advice I received, nothing worked for me. Until, I tried this....
AK Interactive. AK183. Ultra Matte Varnish.
It works, very Matt and no ‘frosting’, also I didn’t have to thin it before airbrushing.