Inverted

Hi everyone... Done a quick google search, but thought you guys might be the quicker route! looking to possibly build a lakenheath F-111F. I have the Hobbyboss F-111D/E. Is there much to change to get it to F standard? I understand D/E's had the shorter wing. Was the F the first with the longer version? I believe the E had the larger intakes so that should be fine... Any help greatly appreciated

Hi all, After doing a little bit of a search cant really find the info i'm after. I have a couple of aerotech resin models i will be building. (DH88 and Mew Gull). I'm after that really glossy look including the decals. Obviously i will experiment and test, and test again before comitting to these kits. Just want to gather together some info and tips if you'd be so kind? Ok we'll use the DH88 as a reference. I picked up a copy of MAI 22 to see the build in there. The builder used halfords Fiat racing red as the colour match, and i must admit, it looks pretty close to the real reference pics i have. He sprayed (i'm guessing) directly out of the can onto the grey plastic primer. But there is no reference to any finishing products used to get that lustre. I'm thinking about decanting and using an airbrush for a more controlled approach. I understand the aerosols are acrylic based, but can normal thinners (X20A, vallejo airbrush cleaner atc be used) or is it a cellulose job, to thin? I'm then thinking of using finishing compounds then model wax over everything including the decals to get that shine Alternatively, should i just spray standard acrylics, then Klear, polish, decal then wax.... any experiences or advice greatly received and noted

Hi... www.promodeller.com is a good place to start. Phil ships post free as well With regards panel lines, dark dirt is a good place to start. Ensure your applying to a gloss or slightly satin finish. It will stick like crazy to a matt finish, so you wont be able to remove the excess!! Give it a go on the panel lines you have and see what happens, before you do any rescribing. Sometimes a quick run along with a cocktail stick will help too.... Chris

Thanks AGAIN everyone... really surprised its got such a response (over 2100 views! ) Tony, i noticed the nose leg after i posted the pics... it straightened out ok with a bit of persuasive tweaking..... the main weight of the aircraft is on the main gear so fingers crossed

Great start...... and a great kit.

Thanks Mike.... Yup since posting that i've seen you have a few new things I'll wait until you have done the tail fin mod, before ordering.... the 1/32 will be an F2 rather than an FGR4 PM inbound regarduing piccies.... Chris

Hi, alcad jet exhhaust on the petals weathered with tamiya packs, the heat shrouds in front were citadel Boltgun silver. The heat discolouration on these was again tamiya weathering packs... hopefully thats of some help Chris

Just seen the last few comments... thanks everyone.... let the goodie collection begin for the 1/32..... still nothing out there..... cmon Mike

Fuel:Fire... my pleasure http://data4.primeportal.net/models/thomas...ss_17_of_38.jpg http://data4.primeportal.net/models/thomas...ss_16_of_38.jpg

Another for the Italeri/Airfix/Flightpath /Paragon combo Mine was italeri, Flightpath and Paragon..... Hindenburgers in the stash for another time (I feel another build coming on )

Heres a pic of the Hobbyboss F3.... at the Nuernberg Toy Fair..... http://www.ipmsdeutschland.de/Ausstellunge...010_VH_134.html Whats the consensus?

My 1/48th decals should be on their way as well. Quick question as i've never really looked into the details.... I have the recent Hase release of the 1B of 198 sqn (4 blade) ... i take it that would be correct for the sharkmouth??

Hi, Word of warning over the colour. Indeed the aircraft is painted Barley grey, however, in my recent build i found the barley grey from xtrarylix, Gunze and Tamiya to be far too dark a shade. The serials and stencil data from model alliance when applied show up lighter than barley grey out of the pot! To get the shade i liked and appeared to match all those those photos above, i mixed barley grey 50:50 with white..... Heres my BUILD

never knew that! now how much future/microsol would that have taken!!??

handy to have.... 11sqn bar colours are the wrong way around unless its to model the one that was actually painted incorrectly...

thanks for the comments everyone

Kit manufacture: Revell Scale: 1/48 Type: Eurofighter Typhoon FGR 4 Extras used:Twomikes: Intake covers, APU duct, Inner pylons. Royale Resin: weighted Wheels Eduard Photoetch. Model Alliance: RAF Typhoon decals, Flightpath CPU-123 Paveway II's Paints and colours used: Xtracrylix, Tamiya, Citadels Hi everyone, Well my first completed in 2010, but started at the end of October. Another typhoon following Silverburns great collection The typhoon is rapidly growing to be one of my favourite aircraft of the moment, but there is something about Paveway II's hanging underneath that just "does it" Over the last year or so i've been accumulating loads of resin goodies for it, along with eduards etch set and Model Alliance decals. I painted the model in the suggested Barley grey, (Xtracrylix 17) but it turned out to be way too dark to my eye. After stripping, painting and stripping a second time i think i finally got the shade i liked using a 50:50 mix of barley grey and white... i now have a huge pot ready for the 1/32 The radome and abbrasive resistant strips are a mix of barley grey, white, middle stone to a shade i liked... anyways, on with the pics... Chris

Thats great cheers Just ordered some new decals from Ali at A2zee..... now more rubbing down, rescribing, priming..... now do i do your method of lightening the xtracrylix or just use the H57....?? decisions decisions

Hi all, been building my 1/48 typhoon for a while now, got all the goodies for it (Flightpath, eduard, model alliance decals two mikes bits and pieces). Got to the painting stage, and now i'm fed up! Did all my research and quite correctly found typhoons to be painted in Barley grey. Great, had some xtracrylix 17 in the box, sprayed and looked about right. Futured, and it appeared to get a shade darker. fair enough. Added model alliances decals (i believe from reviews the only guys to get the colours correct), and the serials and stencil data are very "blue" in hue and are lighter in tone to the base barley grey. Roundals etc seemed far to bright. Ok.... so i stripped the model down and after a bit more research resprayed with Tamiya XF-19 Sky grey. looked lighter, but again the stencil data and serials have disappeared into the base grey. :( I took delivery of some Gunze barley grey and no57 aircraft grey. Again the Barley grey from gunze looks far too dark for the stencils. Would i be better using the H57 instead (seems a lot lighter)? Or are the model alliance decals completely wrong in tone?? Any hints or pics with what paints you used would be awesome... Yours well and truly miffed Chris

Awesome work Nick... making me wanna break into mine, but scared to muck it up... one quick thing that was picked up on one of my 1/48th builds... should the crowbar in the cockpit door be red? I was led to believe it was only painted this in present warbirds rather than "in service" aircraft.... correct me if i'm barking up the wrong tree though!

Another gorgeous build! loving your faded paint, something i cant seem to get right! Whats next!? C

Hi just as some more incentive for the aeroclub set.... heres mine. I kept the kit canopy as i cant work with vac form. All i did was polish out the rear frame of the main canopy....

Hi Mark, I use xtracrylix almost exclusively, so should be able to help. Firstly i wouldn't jump straight into painting the model. Have a play on some pieces of white paper/kitchen roll first. Here is what i do, but its most certainly not gospel: Ok first things first, Xtracrylix has a reputation for being a pain to spray, be patient with it. Try not to spray in a hot room, the cooler the room the better as it stops the paint drying as it passes through the air en-route to the models surface. ( i live in north Scotland so have no trouble there!) Paint consistency: firstly add one or two drops of water in the airbrush. Now for the paint, some measure specific quantities, i dont. I look to get ever so slightly thicker than a milk consistency (test this by using a cocktail stick to drag some of your mix up the inside of the airbrushes paint cup). Mix well with the cocktail stick. I usually spray between 20-25psi, higher psi for thicker paint mixes. Lower psi for thinner paint mixes. For instance i use 10psi for alclads. Now depending on what type of airbrush you have, depends how much control you'll have. If you have a trigger that goes back and forth as well as up and down, then great, you'll be able to control the width of the spray. If not, then you'll be relying on how far away from the model you spray from. i.e closer gives thinner lines (but quicker accumulation of paint and farther away gives a broader pattern, but the paint has to travel further and you run the risk of it drying...) cover the model in LIGHT coats, dont be tempted to cover in one. Each coat shouldn't take more than 60secs to dry (touch dry) once touch dry you'll be fine for another coat. Build up as many layers to the point you like the look of the depth of colour The key here is to test, test, test before committing to the model. The good thing with acrylic is that if it does go wrong, you can wash it off, if your pretty quick. When you do get into it more i would recommend getting a bottle of vallejo airbrush cleaner (SBX models do it cheap), i use this as a thinner (not water) and as the cleaner after. It has a retardent in it that slows the drying time, so less likely to dry in air... finally, when all done thoroughly wash your brush through removing any paint build up any more q's just shout Chris

Thanks for all the comments everyone. Whats interesting is that everyone seems to like something different In fact the Wyvern seems the most popular and its probably my least favourite of the year!

Hi all first time i've compiled all my builds in one post! 1/48 Hasegawa F4-J VF-31 1/48 Kinetic F-16 RNoAF 1/48 Tamiya Spitfire MkI 1/48 Airfix Canberra PR9 1/48 Revell Rafale M 1/48 Italeri Chinook converted to HC2A 1/48 Academy Hunter FGA9 (aeroclub corrected) 1/48 Trumpeter Westland Wyvern 1/48 Revell harrier GR9 1/48 Italeri Tornado GR4 (flightpath & paragon) 1/48 Revell/Hase Phantom FGR2 1/32 Revell PA-18 Cub Hadn't realised how many!! Chris