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gt6mkiii

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About gt6mkiii

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  1. I think the aftermarket will jump on this one as there could be a lot a variations to build - the body is a good, clean base to start from and there's room to add a stock interior, photoetch mesh grills etc.
  2. Just starting a WIP thread for the new Tamiya Mustang GT4. I picked the kit up locally yesterday - I'll probably build this pretty much out of the box but not as a racer - just change colours and decals. The kit itself is pretty amazing - super tight fit, crisp moldings, nice glue tabs and all of the aero add-ons and splitters etc. are all molded as separate pieces, so masking will be reasonable. It would be nice if Tamiya made a street version but I'm not expecting it as the AMG GT3 has never had a companion road version. I think I can make this a roadish version but the glass is definitely race only - large black areas to cover the roll cage and molded in vents in the side windows and a reinforced rear window. More soon hopefully. Martin.
  3. Great result - some fantastic weathering overall and on the graphics and windows in particular. I just did my first really weathered model and I was very worried about weathering the glass windows and not being able to undo it. These look just right to me.
  4. Nicely built - one of my favourite Group C cars! The stripe and body paint pattern looks super crisp, was that decals or masking?
  5. I followed this on the Group Build and the finished model looks fantastic of course, but I think the photos at the end look great as well - looks like you arranged your lighting to match the shadows already in the barn photo - very sharp!
  6. Good news for scaling the images is that the non-garage doors in your photos should about 3.5" high to be 1:24 scale. I think there's a bit of leeway, but if the scale is too far off, something's going to look odd. For the camera settings, being able to control "F" is what you need to get the maximum depth of field - something around f18 or higher. That is going to make the aperture so small that your camera will compensate with a high ISO which leads to grainy photos and probably a very slow shutter speed which means a tripod will probably be necessary. In the last shots I did of the Dodge Dart, I wanted to hold the camera and keep the ISO as low as I could so I ended up sacrificing a bit of depth of field even in outdoor light. Hope this helps.
  7. Looking good Jeroen! One thing I've tried to do with the photo backgrounds is to scale the printout to the scale of the model although it might not be easy to do with a such a large truck and a barn.
  8. Thanks for all the great comments! That's my favourite part too!
  9. Hey all, a bit of a change of pace for me. After building a bunch of models with nice shiny clearcoat, I wanted to try a more weathered and distressed finish. I watched a bunch of YouTube videos on the salt chipping technique and applied them to a Revell 1/25 1968 Dodge Dart GTS. The goal was to create a model that looked a bit sun-baked and rusty but mostly original. This is the first American car I've built in a very long time. The kit was pretty good, I haven't built an American kit in a long time either, but there was lots of parts to work with and some nice engraved detail on door panels and the rear trim in particular. I changed the wheels in the kit to a set of Fireball Modelworks Mopar steelies. I added some engine wiring and exhaust tips made of aluminum tube but that was about it. I'm used to Japanese kits that lock the interior chassis and body together, so the final fit on this was a bit loosey-goosey but came together with a bit of glue and clamping. I painted the front quarter panel to look like it was replaced at some point and drilled out the side marker light and sanded off the emblem. I used some light acrylic washes to add to the weathering but really tried to restrain myself from doing too much. This was also the first time I intentionally sanded through a decal. The engine was weathered to be a running survivor and not totally derelict. I've started building a large diorama to shoot my models on - the base is the start of the parking area and the backdrop is a printout of a photo of a graffiti covered wall I found online. There's a lot of great demos on YouTube, but my process was a basecoat in Dark Rust, a light speckle coat in light rust, apply water and then sprinkle on coarse salt, let that dry and spray with a grey primer colour, brush off the salt and repeat the salt application and spray with the body colour so you get a 2 layer paint and primer peeling effect. Washes and rust detail was applied over this. A couple more shots: Thanks for looking! Martin.
  10. Fantastic! As has been said, the subtle weathering is just perfect - enough to add realism but not detract from the model.
  11. I always feel like I spend more time recovering from my mistakes than I do actually getting it right the first time. I think it's part of the building/learning process and hopefully on each model I make, I have less to fix. Like everyone else, I would encourage you to stick with it - I think we're all looking forward to seeing the next stage of this build. Martin.
  12. I think you're right on the differences in the arches between the 911s but it feels like the squared off arches were also translated to Fujimi's 964 which to my limited knowledge would be a totally different mould. It's always felt to me like the arches were too long - stretched across the middle.
  13. That's a fantastic replica! I would agree with the comments on the front fender mods - it really makes a difference to the overall accuracy of the body.
  14. I know it's a good build when I'm immediately on ebay seeing what these kits go for!
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