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Enzo Matrix

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Everything posted by Enzo Matrix

  1. Oi! I'm standing right here, yannow!
  2. This GB is nowhere near the start date, yet the daft banter has commenced!
  3. It's about time I weighed in on this GB. I'm afraid I've done my usual trcik of working on the model without updating a build thread. I must stress that although this build may seem to be proceeding quickly... it isn't! I have been working on this sing the first day of the GB. I shall be building the new Academy kit. A lot of people like the hi-vis Rogers schemes - and special schemes in general. To be honest, I am strongly ambivalent about special schemes due to personal experience. In 1987 I was involved in designing and painting a special scheme for the first production Harrier. I soon found out how much work is involved keeping the special jet clean. Special schemes are all well and good but I'm much happier with standard line jets. For that reason, I will not be using the decals scheme provided in the box. I shall be using CtA Decals Sheet 5... ... to build one of these line jets.
  4. Main assembly complete. Primed with my usual grey car primer from a rattle can. The white fuselage was the sprayed with white car primer from a rattle can. It is essential to spray light coats to stop the primer from pooling and running. It is also difficult to direst the srpay, especially into the atras under the wing. As you can see, that led to a tide mark of white paint on the uppersurface of the wing. I wonder if that will cause problems later on. SPOILER ALERT: yes, it did! The white areas were then masked off, ready to spray the red.
  5. So let's crack on with the interior. There are a bewildering number of parts... I sprayed everything with Xtracrylix XA1010 Aircraft Grey Green. The bomb bay areas were masked and sprayed with Tamiya XF-69 NATO Black. I then set to work painting bits and peices with whatever came to hand. Most components were sprayed with Flory Models dark dirt wash. Once it had dried I used the airbrush as a pressure washer to reduce the weathering. Most of the Eduard pre-coloured PE was the added, Then I assembled the interior. Be aware that there are at least half a dozen parts which have yet to be painted and fitted. This is effectively a full day's work. EDIT: Airfix provide blanking plates for the beam gun positions.
  6. Let's discuss this kit. I feel that whoever designed this kit saw it as a labour of love. There are a number of detail parts that will never be seen in the finished model. The instruction sheet actually tells you what these parts are and states that they can be left out of the build. Yet... they are still included and very well detailed. I wonder if this has raised the cost of the kit. A few years ago, I remember a discussion about moulding costs. It was stated that a single part could add up to £10,000 to the cost of a mould, so anything that was not absolutely essential was never included. I can only imagine that with the rise of CAD/CAM and computerised mould cutting, those costs have drastically fallen. Oooh! Split infinitive... I know that Trumpeter regularly have details - and even whole assemblies - in their kits that will never be visible. It seems that Airfix have gone down the same route with this kit. The Eduard detailing set provides extra detail for the areas that will never be seen. This kit simply cries out for someone to build it as a cutaway. I won't be building it as a cutaway... But, I'll attempt to do the interior justice. It will never be seen, but I'll know it's there. I have form for this sort of behaviour. Twenty-odd years ago I built a short rake of LMS railway carriages with full interiors. Even including the toilet areas, which had no external windows. It's all about the joy of modelling.
  7. Lets look at the sprues. This is the fuselage exterior. It has some nice detailing to represent the fuselage structure. But let's look at the interior... The geodesic structure is reproduced in full, even in the areas where it will not be seen! I believe the fuselage sprue and this one are common with the Wellington Ic kit. The following two sprues are specific to the Mk.II kit as they provide the wing structure and nacelles which are required for the Merlin engined version.
  8. Again, being quite contrary, I'm not going to use either of the kit marking schemes. Both of those aircraft have the beam gun installations in the fuselage sides, which makes the marking placement quite awkward. Some Mk.II aircraft were built without them and I will be building this aircraft from 140 Sqn. Linked from Wikipedia. Content is in the public domain.
  9. I have never built a Wellington before. That seems a little unfair to the aircraft, which was the mainstay of Bomber Command in the early years of the second world war. This GB seems like the right play to redress that injustice. However, I can't help being a little bit contrary. Most Wimpys had radial engines and that is the look that is familiar. I thought I would go for something a little bit different. The Wellington Mk.II had Merlin engines. Airfix recently issued the Mk.II so I will use that kit. I will also be using the Eduard interior detail set. How much of it will actually be visible remains to be seen.
  10. Let's get started on the build. As with all the early Matchbox kits, the cockpit is very sparse indeed; just two pilots and their seats. So assembly is quite quick. The intakes and exhausts are seperate parts, as is the nose. The canopy is a single piece. Which was then masked off. The wings are simply upper and lowersurfaces with the usual Matchbox trenches.
  11. The wings are simple assemblies - an upper and lowersurface part for each wing. As this is the initial release, there are no wing fences. The later Red Arrows boxing was retooled to have wing fences. Main assembly complete. And primed with my usual grey car primer from a rattle can. The fuselage upper decking was then sprayed with white car primer from a rattle can. I find that this is the best way to paint large areas of white, provided that one sprays a number of thin coats. Spray it heavily and it will run! Upper decking masked off with Tamiya tape and masking tape. Once I took the photo, I realised that the line to the nose is slightly too low, so I'll need to remask it. Not really a difficult job...
  12. The forum software can handle three questions in each poll. Each question can have 25 options. Given a "none of the above" option in each question, then we can handle 72 entries in a poll. It may be worthwhile having seperate polls as you stated. Maybe allow everyone to post their builds in a single gallery and then split it down after the GB ends.
  13. Liquid gravity works well for tiny spaces. If the nose space is reasonable then I would recommend flat lead came, which is used in the assembly of stained glass windows. The lead came can be bent and squashed into small spaces. Lead foil used in the production of flies for fishing is also useful.
  14. Which is going to require some serious out-of-the-box thinking with regard to pollage in June. Meh! That's four months away. We'll worry about it then. More builds!
  15. We have liquid gravity for the nose. It's about time that someone invented liquid Cavorite for the tail!
  16. It's never happened before. I don't see why it would happen now...
  17. I'm sooooo looking forward to this GB. Not just for the models but also for the daft banter in the chat thread!
  18. As far as I know, the squadron marking was never carried on the nose. If this were a Jaguar build, that would be totally inaccurate. But it's not. It's a Matchbox kit nostalgia build. I'm following the kit, regardless of whether it is accurate. But I must admit, it has me itching to build a 54 Sqn Jaguar from one of the Italeri kits in The Stash...
  19. Far from it. They are nice kits. However, I find them to be expensive and a tricky build. For instance the nose gear bay has to be built up from numerous components. If you don't get it just right, it throws off the fit of the nose and front fuselage. The subsequent filling and sanding removes a lot of the nice surface detail.
  20. I know that feeling! I find that car paint from a rattle can is good for prop tips. Fiat Broom Yellow is my choice. I spray it first and mask over it. That way it prevents a build up of yellow paint against the masking tape or even - horror of horrors - paint creep. However, there is a problem if you use Tamiya masking tape. Attempting to mask yellow paint with a yellow tape is a short cut to insanity!
  21. Let's get started. Hold on tight, rider! The first thing was to build the cockpit. It's a nostalgia build, so no extra detailing involved. The fuselage goes together quickly. I added my usual overabundance of ballast. The intake parts were sprayed white on their interior surfaces. Seat s and crew fitted, together with the intercockpit windshield. The edge has been carefully painted white. The one piece canopy was then fitted and masked off.
  22. You are right. According to Scalemates the kit was issued in 1972 and then re-issued with new decals the following year. It was re-issued again with new parts in 1982 so I suppose that is when the retool took place. https://www.scalemates.com/kits/matchbox-pk-5-dornier-dassault-alpha-jet--178492
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