spartacus2000

😍 I love it GREAT job!!!!!!!!

Amazing build I've the same kit so I'll keep tips from your and Jonny. Cheers Marco

Thanks Matt I had the doubt that that wing in the background could be its original wing you gave me confirmation but I still can not insert the photo in the temporal sequence of the life of this plane, you see the 7 white but not the 14 original black that appears and disappears in the following photos however I think in the end I will do it with the code X8 - 7 white on the right side and 14 black -7 white on the left side

Hi everyone Some update PRESHADING For the lower surfaces I used intermediate blue US navy for the dark areas, lightened with a light gray for the light areas. For the upper surfaces a brown for the dark areas, lightened with a buff for the intermediate areas and the areas at the maximum of the zenith lice I added to the mixture of white and as an extreme light of pure white, all diluted to 80-90% by going over several times to obtain the desired depth. Here are the photos of this passage BASIC COLOR and POST SHADING for the base color I used a blue rlm 78 1942 from AK interactive for the lower parts and a desert brown rlm 79 1942 for the upper surfaces The photos of the lower surfaces do not make the chromatic differences in transparency as I used the flash, the high surfaces were retouched with a mix of rlm 79 and brown for the profiles of the panels and rlm 79 + buff to lighten the center of the panels This is the status quo of the works, I colored the wing tips in red, and simulated the Balkenkreuz to have a minimum of thickness before going into neutral gray and the lower panel acces of the engine in yellow and white. I have to study the spots on the wings a bit well because in the photos in the workshops it seems that it is present even before the obliteration of the Balkenkreuz on the left wing, and understand well the progress of the yellow band on the fuselage. Historic picture from http://silverhawkauthor.com/axis-warplane-survivors-german-aircraft-part-iii-junkers-ju-290-to-messerschmitt-me-261_566.html That's all for now

Hi everyone, get me back. I filed the mustang no I didn't finish it but I put it to rest for fear of finishing it existentially as the disasters followed one after the other so to avoid a kitticide I preferred to abandon it for a while. The hard life of the model maker. The desire, however, is not lacking and not even the kits for which a new monkey has now taken me: the legendary 109 I have 8 boxes from E to T of different brands the classic Hasegawa, the Zvenda, Accademy and Eduard, I do not have the Tamiya but not it is said that he does not take it, another that intrigues me a lot is the A version of the Dora wings just to have a sort of "evolution of the species" in the collection. But let's get to the kit, as mentioned it is a wekend version to which I added only the dedicated zoom as the seat belts are supplied in decal and some plastic details such as the radiator grilles are a bit coarse. The decals are from Ventura and represent a G2 captured by the allies in '42; and here I need help for some inconsistencies that I will explain shortly. The kit itself is not bad but I have noticed some negative aspects that make the model unsuitable for the beginners, as although the 109 is an airplane easy to assemble in general, this one needs a little more attention and several dry tests as there is no evidence for the assembly of the half-fuselages and wings and also the pieces of cockpit need some adjustments to assemble everything properly. The assembly will be essentially OOB with only a few details in PE, I decided not to do the usual washing but the shadows and lights were given in oil with a sort of "zenithal light" which gives a better control of the final result (for me ). The colors used are AK real color that I have already used for the Spitfire and that have satisfied me 100%. But now some photos. BOX ART It matters little because this is not the camo, and since I love desert theater I bought this profipack version that I will do so DECAL But here the first doubts here are the points in question The Balkenkreuz of the upper surfaces are canceled with the dark earth but on the lower surfaces? Did they use blue, perhaps RAF or the one available or other color? Here 2 other inconsistencies, perhaps only an oversight by the designer, the bosses on the hood that usually identify the G6 versions for the change of machine guns, which disappear in the profile and then here the sand filter is not shown; another error or plausible omission? I await your opinion. COCKPIT As you can see there are no matching pins which makes it very similar to a short run as a conception, my kit in particular is a bit crooked and some shrinkage on the edges will oblige me to use putty to fill the cracks. From a first check, however, the fuselage and wings junction seems precise to me, the wings also have no references and the pitot tube is in solidarity with the wing I foresee the break. Another thing that did not satisfy me very much are the position lights printed together with the wing, I would have preferred them aside in the transparent sprue. The tail wheel must necessarily be mounted before the closing of the 2 half-fuselages and of course on the first hit: Zaaaaak broken: -I hit, I drilled the shock absorber and I put a brass pin on it, I put the wheel aside and I will mount in the end. Another problem is the yellow tube that passes to the right side of the pilot, the instructions foresee to mount it on the tub but from the dry tests, go to touch the dashboard, I've mounted it directly on the wall (there are the references) and cut the end parts to allow the perfect fitting of the tub with the spindle For now it'a all Bye

build this kit years ago plus dio really a good kit the result more pic here corsair gallery

Hi everyone . I am back to you after the winter hibernation that has kept me away from the workbench but not from the PC where I modeled 3D screens for a project that will start shortly. This is a virtual preview that has already borne fruit in the "real world" (yes I know so much Matrix but give it to me), but this will be the topic of a new post. But let's get back to the topic. Eduard model in 1: 48, I saw a build on Youtube and I decided to buy the model directly from Eduard as I decided to use after market decals that have been in my decal stash for too long time with many others dedicated to this iconic plane. BOX ART Actually I have to review my style because I think it is not very attractive for marketing Joking aside, that's the reason for the white box DECAL This is what I said when I said that I have some p51 sheets (these are only for the "D", I have others for the other versions) The choice fell on this sheet of Pyn Up which has a really beautiful nose art, the drawing is fantastic The detail is photographed in SuperMacro in fact you can see the print dots but with the naked eye it appears very convincing (the Pinup is only 1.5cm high) After the presentation here is the section CONSTRUCTION The model will be OOb with only the photoetched plate dedicated to the cockpit as the model is really very beautiful as it is; I don't think it's worth spending money on aftermarket: such as the cockpit, and other parts of the plane unless you want superdetail but this is not the case I preferred to devote myself to the livery COCKPIT For the walls I decided not to use many P.E. as although they are well made they flatten the model a lot, I decided to use only the plates and a few other details that are actually flat. Olive drab seat with scratch (color option given by Edu. Which makes the office a little more colorful) I moved the seat belts a bit For the floor: wooden base, then hairspray ,matt black, then I passed with a wet brush to make the underlying base reappear MAIN TANK The main tank received a coat of primer with a brush, tapping the surface to make it rough as in reality, I left the inspections and the various flanges, pipes etc. smooth. I colored the tank in German gray darkened with black (all opaque) in shiny blacks the rest to give the contrast between the metals and other materials, as well as I distinguished the battery materials. Washing with oil black and profiled the edges (no drybrush except on the serbstoio because I prefer not to have light smudges everywhere). WEEL BAY Another very well done detail is the wellbay which is made up of various pieces which one must pay attention to when assembling and follow the various assembly phases proposed by the instructions. For the coloring I opted for a mixed coloring: structure in chrome yellow and aluminum tops (none of the 2 proposed by Edu but I have seen several photos with this type of coloring), washing with oil black and light profiling with lightened chrome yellow ( here the masking work made me a little crazy but it was worth it? LIGHTS Eduard opted for a single piece in transparent to be fixed inside the wing before closing the shells I decided to paint the lamps from the inside to use the external part as a lens, to give a more convincing result to the whole I used an adhesive aluminum strip to simulate the internal parabola.The result is very convincing to you the judgment At the closing of the wings I had difficulties because maybe I did something wrong in the assembly of the weel bay so they did not close properly so I had to scratch the edges a bit to avoid cracks so pay attention to the assembly of the trolley compartment COLOR Nothing special : Gunze glossy black base with Tamiya retarder to delay drying and the possibility of expansion of the color droplets to have a very smooth surface; 3 very light coats interspersed with one day of drying. For the bare metal parts I used the Vallejo aluminum (the Metal Color series) which have nothing to envy to the Alclads, on the contrary being much less shiny I find them more accurate as a color rendering (but this is a personal opinion, I used Alclads for years with satisfaction). For the wing surfaces that were filled and painted I used the White aluminum which is a good tonal compromise without exaggerating the detachment in the difference of the materials that often ruin the final effect, remember that in reality they were not built with too many different materials, if it was used a material other than aluminum there was a structural reason, I think they didn't care much about aesthetics, let's remember that these vehicles were used to shooting down the enemy and not to do a fashion show. In removing a hair, I used a fiberglass pencil and I abraded the silver paint a little too much, making the black below resurface so I decided to profile the various panels to make a sort of preshading, a rather successful and technical experiment to refine maybe with a bit a little bit more fine. Here, too, the comments are very apprecied, let's see if we can get to version 2.0 of the technique or if it will fall into oblivion of useless techniques forever. In the engine area I have always used Vallejo's Steel as a base and Burn iron as a nuance to simulate the effect of heat on the metal, all very discreet but perceptible For no it's all Folks.... Until next time Ciao

I love historex I've many miniature on my stash,and i love to modify the figure here mi 7th bis hussard in Egipt historex

Hi Shark thanks, I thought that this was your intention to harmonize the tone of the rest of the scene since there are many details in warm colors like red, and yellow; but as I said, and it is only my personal judgment, I would have detached the helicopter from the context with a decidedly cold tone to make it the protagonist of the diorama. But anyway BRAVO the details are amazing . P.S. I never use pure black too in preshading at most a very dark gray, black just to highlight the particular ones usually my preshading agree very much with the final color tones, touched up anyway by a lot of post and whathering work

Great work Shark only one question (curiosity nothing else) Why preshading in brown ? The final effect is good but why not eg. blugrey or blackgray. I repeat the diorama looks fantastic ,but the cromatic result hurt my sense of vision(but is only my opinion , maybe live it is harmonious)

Man We are Italian style is on yuor DNA😂🤣😂😂

Hi guys here thinnig colors a panoramic of all thinner for all colors. Is in Italian but very easy to understand is a work of years of experimantion and very usefull

hi guys little tips to thin some colors Vallejo, lifecolor or vililic use Vetrix ,Vetril or similar no isopropil 60-70% frist coat will be very trasparent but the other will cover good Gunze tamyia isopropil or specific thinner ak enamel , model master tamyia yellow cap or specific thinner thinning vareie fro airbrush to airbrush hope is usefull

Hi Crisp In my long career I built everything, ships fascinate me but honestly I wouldn't have the patience to work on a model for too longtime. I have the Surprise in 1:72 on my shelf, sometimes I open the box to check the pieces, read the instructions and ... I close everything and put it back in place I know I wouldn't finish it, maybe when I'm retired I will have time and patience. For now my philosophy is that a kit is like milk has an expiration date. I would like to make some excursions from my main interest: the airplanes,because I discover technics that can be useful to me anyway. Returning to your work is really impressive and to think that you have to do it also on the other side. I will follow you with interest

F A N T A S T I C W O R K!!!!!!! Put in the favorites. The gothta is one of the ww1 planes that I prefer but the space available is little, in 1:32 then I can't afford it and in 1:48 it's hard to find or almost. I will follow you with interest and healthy envy🤐

Hi Claudius great start. I will follow you with interest

Hi Giorgio . Normally I am not attracted by the 1:72 scale, I read this post all at once because I really like the Eurofighter. Apart the upgrade work, I was shocked by the amount of work you had to do to make this model decent. I never imagined that a Revell model was so inaccurate, by comparison some short runs look like Tamiya. Congratulations for the work done so far, I await the end with interest

Hi RCI Great job with those engines, fortunately there is a lot of space to fill the canopy of what I saw that the fitting is not the best. I always wanted to have a civilian plane in my collection, when I was little I built the 747 of the Airfix with poor results, if I can get my hands on the Simson plane I think I'll have fun building it

Great work resin engine improve the kit Bravo

Hi Jonny great gob . Your preshading is very simlar to mine brown or green ? Frist brown very thinned 80/90% so you can controll exactly the effect,3-4 coat the let dry a night so you can verify the color coverage (to add color you are always in time). For post use some drop of chocolate brown very dilued around pannel edge and base + some drop sail color or similar for center pannel 90% thinnned no more than 2 coat every time: is a long and tedious steps but give satisfaction. Cheers

Hi Andy tnx I've used soft pastel from Rembrant or W&N (U can read exactily color above in the tread) reduced in powder then passed whit a brush,thin passage up to desired effect.fix all whit a clear coat. Wash whit oil (cassel brown and a little black thinned in petrol or light essence as Troy suggest) then flat coat prepare the surface for pigment(I've useed Mig black smoke,desert earth). Scratch whit sponge and brush, I prefer the second metod that are more controllable,the sponge metod for diffuse scrath. Oil stain from Mig(a gelly mix very convincent). But the 1st thing"patience" then "patience",thik 3 time before aply scrath must be pertinent. For any help feel free to ask

Yes the goal is approaching, the Spit is almost finished, some things remain to do but the big job has been done. I wanted to give the model a really worn and somewhat unkempt look due to hyperactivity and the desert climate that certainly does not help the good maintenance of the vehicle. Obviously there is no opaque coat as I have to adjust the pigments a bit, and some accessories such as the various lights, the antenna, the door and then finally glue the canopy and propeller. Pictures Last considerations, the kit mounts really well, the decals on the other hand drove me crazy while being Cartograf I struggled in detaching from the support, even 5 minutes waiting to soak, and then the difficulty to make them slide on the model, I used both the microsol and Mr. soft but as you can see they don't adhering to the panels, silvering problems even after a generous coat of gloss on the zone and on the wings I noticed a rippling principle that I hope will disappear with the matt coat. As usual C.C.C.s always welcome

Tnx Troy usefull I've fixed my mistake but I've followed Eduard guide that put the roundel far ahead. This night I'll place he decals. Question 1 roundel & 1star or 2 roundel in lower surface? I hope an answer before placing I'vnt no extra star,Eduard give the 2 options if 1st option I must search a new yellow circled star in my kit depot.

Hello to all . Small step washes and beginning of wheaterhing. For the first one I used a brown of cassel diluted in whit spirit, I only used this color without the black because being little covering so I could decide the quantity of color for each panel. It is true that it is almost all uniform, but it is me served for the lower surfaces where I wanted to be a bit more light, I also decided to profile only the main panels, the rivets I wanted them only visible but not accentuated given the degree of wear of the paint would have been out of place. weathering is carried out with flat clear stained with a drop of white then I've used ocher, light ocher and dark ocher pastels. all given with a brush and then solvated, this is still an initial phase of the work without having fixed anything yet so I can wash it all away and estart the process if no satisfying. here are the pictures Ok for now it's all bye

Hi Jonny My wife gave me the same kit so I will follow you with great interest. Great work done so far