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About spartacus2000

  • Birthday 07/29/1966

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  1. Hi Friends I searched my supplier for the 850 liter ventral tank but he didn't have them so I did a quick search on the net and found some photos of the PJ models and Wingman models that produce them, I sat in front of the pc and reproduced them. Another thing that didn't convince me was the camera for which I searched for photos and found answers on this site and found that it is the same model mounted on the Kfir and SR71, and here's what I modeled. Tomorrow I mold everything with my 3D resin printer. Below are the photos of the 3D model of the ventral tank, elettronic bay and the head of the camera Eletronic bay for camera ,The one from the convertion it's very poor in details and the access doors are represented as raisedand non-fluxing AML solution for the head of the camera My solution from reality lents look trough a 45°inclined mirror
  2. Or the recce version of the Israeli Mirage. Hi everyone, I'm back with another kit. I started with the Weekend in 48 version of Eduard to which I added the A.M.L. convertion and S.B.S. for cockpit and weel bays. Maybe I'll take in Eduard wheel set but I haven't decided yet. BOX ART and ACCESSORIES PREPARATION FOR CONVERSION The model in addition to receiving the new "nose", will receive a new engine or the ATAR 9C which differs externally for a new shape of the tail and the petals of the afterburner more similar to the J79 instead of the 2 petals (upper and lower) of the Atar 9B. At this point I wanted to see if the model would "sit" as the Mirage and F21 I already built had this flaw. I put all the tail and radome components in bags and simulated the fulcrum of the scale at the point of the main carriages, result: the model hangs towards the front so I don't need ballast. COCKPIT After having scratched to the bone the cockpit and the front landing gear I moved on to the realization of the pit in black not black (that is a very dark gray), drybrush with a mix of Mars Black and Titanium White oil, washing with Lavado Negro from Vallejo with water and then defining the colored areas with the Vallejo. The seat is from the detail set (MK5 if I'm not mistaken) even if some were equipped with MK6 that I took (Pavla) but definitely out of scale (native to the Airfix Buccaneer), I'll try to use the one dedicated to the Kfir from Quick Boost if it is not huge too, however for now it remains the original one. ENGINE AREA The coupling between the terminal section and the fuselage is really precise, I had to intervene the minimum necessary for the alignment of the 2 pieces. The actual motor consists of 2 pieces for the petals (internal and external) to which the tie rods for closing the external ones must be added in the form of copper wire to be baked at 3mm and then glue the appropriate seats, the others pieces are the smoke duct, the grill (in P.E.), the initial part of the smoke duct and the terminal part of the compressor. The pieces are assembled without difficulty and the detachment from the risers is very easy; only precaution, the outer petals are very fragile so you need some attention to avoid them breaking. The only addition is the parachute-saving steel lip protection plate which is smooth in the set and which I reproduced with adhesive aluminum. FUSELAGE AND WINGS I have always maintained that the Weekend versions are not perfect molds, in fact mine were quite slobbering and a little crooked. Eduard's Mirage is in itself a model that is not very easy to assemble as there are no well-marked feedbacks and the decomposition of the model does not facilitate things. I proceeded in stages, once the cockpit was fixed in one half of the fuselage, I began to glue the kit from the nose, paying close attention to the alignment between the various panels, arrived at the air intakes area, I waited for everything to dry before resume gluing the rest. For the wings I followed a different scheme from the instructions, in fact I first glued the upper wings and taking care of the alignment at the root of the wing, I glued the 2 wings, this allowed me to avoid boring and dangerous grouting that would have ruined delicate paneling and details of that area. Any adjustments will be made in the lower part that is less visible but also easier to fix. Now I am dedicating myself to the lower part of the wings where also here the alignment work and step procedure is a must .... but this another story
  3. Good evening everyone here we are at the end of this wip, thanks to a small holiday period for the Republic Day and the immoderate desire to work I managed to finish the kit in a weekend (a bit long to be honest: 4 days). I will not comment much on the various phases which are the classic Gloss, decal , very light washes, Flat, filters and a bit of weathering, little touchs of mistake and assembly of weapons and small details. I let the images speak for themselves, which are more than explanatory.
  4. thanks for the comments, @Dov the color used is the rlm 02 1941 from AK ineractive Real color with scratch in RLM66 plus a drop of dark alu done with brush only to test my manuality after the injury to the hand
  5. I'm back, very good modeling session today. WINGS AND UPPER FUSELAGE SURFACE First I used the Mahogany from Gunze For the frist step of the preshading, darkened for the main panels with dark brown and in the areas of greater light a buff lightened with white in the spot areas in the center of the panels: dilution 80% I then used rlm 79 of AK Real color diluted at 70/80% to a fine control of the coverage. Here is the result. LOWER SURFACES AND FUSELAGE For the lower surfaces I used for the preshading a mix that I had made for an f16, similar to the Intermediate blue of the ww2 but more charged with blue, for the main panels a true blue and for the lights of the panels a light gray, the latter very diluted for fine tone management. Once dry I gave several passes of AK Rael Color RLM 78 very diluted until the result satisfied me MIMETIC Finally I used the AK Real Color RLM 80 for the camouflage spots For now it's all good evening everyone
  6. Hello everyone after the winter period where my laboratory is unusable due to lack of heating and a series of injuries including that to the left hand and since I'm left handed it blocked me for some time, here I am. I have deliberately chosen a fairly simple subject and to do OOB to test the hand movement skills and resume manual skills with the airbrush so don't expect a super fine job. As for the assembly, as mentioned, it will be from the box without aftermarket as I want to represent the plane with all the enclosures closed, I mounted the engine to see if I could close the hood but in the end I had to cut it in half horizontally to close everything so wasted work. Eduard opted for the complete engine to be modified for closing the engine compartment when he could very well make support plates for the exhausts. The cockpit was assembled from the box, I only used the decals on the embossed dashboards and for the first time I used the vinyl seat belts to be glued with white glue, better than the decals, but the final effect no longer convinces me However, better than nothing. Box art Cockpit It's all for now. Cheers
  7. For assembly the wings follow these steps 1 bottom 2 upprer side but start from the root to make a smoot allignement . l Let dry for 1 day then you can glue the rest It's my metod and I forgot the putty
  8. Hi Alan thanks for the compliments but your request seems impossible to satisfy, I have been working on this project for 2 years and more than 400 hours of work. If you are interested you will have to wait for the design, printing and assembly of all the components to be finished to see if everything fits in order to offer a salable product. Cheer Marco
  9. Hello everyone, little update (busy working week so little time to model) Air intake and small finished parts now I have to move to the carburetor and accessory support area. Cheers Marco
  10. Hi Guys here is a small update it is about the anti-vibration coupling between the engine mount and the engine from the Lord corporation now I have to replicate it 6 times around the mount ring. I have arranged some holes for an insertion of a metal rod instead of the resin one to have greater solidity in a very stressed but also very small area measures in fact are only about 5mm in circumference x 4 in depth, the ring is only 2.5mm in diameter . the little pig for this week it's all Cheers Marco
  11. Hi everyone. Small update: the affected area is the blow crankase. Obviously the J6 piece of the kit is very approximate so you absolutely have to put your hand to it. This is how it is represented in the original P&W catalog This instead is the Airfix J6 piece assembled here to check the alignment of the intake manifold of the kit on the resin pieces with positive result apart from the cutting errors in the front Analyzing the piece we can see that the engine supports are very approximate (they are those 45 ° cylinders that protrude to the left). The following are renderings of the pieces so far modeled with some details and final positioning. The work is 80% complete the support needs to be finished, make the manifolds and finish some details of the coupling to the area of the supercharger and carburetor, but this is another piece that brings me closer to the goal. That's all for now See you next update
  12. Hi Chris. As a modeling program I use Rhinoceros vers 7 and especially I model whit surfaces & NURBS Then exported in .stl to print the various parts. Also if available from this release, SUBDs is good for projects that don't need as high a precision as in this case: the tolerance is 0.01mm and the joints must be precise. Some components are modeled in polygonal but are those shapes that had a certain margin of tolerance (the upper deflectors of the cylinders for example). I started with Autodesk's Inventor for the main body parts but then went back to my old love: Rhino which I have been using since its Beta version. A few updates soon Cheers
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