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About spartacus2000

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  1. Hi Shark thanks, I thought that this was your intention to harmonize the tone of the rest of the scene since there are many details in warm colors like red, and yellow; but as I said, and it is only my personal judgment, I would have detached the helicopter from the context with a decidedly cold tone to make it the protagonist of the diorama. But anyway BRAVO the details are amazing . P.S. I never use pure black too in preshading at most a very dark gray, black just to highlight the particular ones usually my preshading agree very much with the final color tones, touched up anyway by a lot of post and whathering work
  2. Great work Shark only one question (curiosity nothing else) Why preshading in brown ? The final effect is good but why not eg. blugrey or blackgray. I repeat the diorama looks fantastic ,but the cromatic result hurt my sense of vision(but is only my opinion , maybe live it is harmonious)
  3. Hi guys here thinnig colors a panoramic of all thinner for all colors. Is in Italian but very easy to understand is a work of years of experimantion and very usefull
  4. hi guys little tips to thin some colors Vallejo, lifecolor or vililic use Vetrix ,Vetril or similar no isopropil 60-70% frist coat will be very trasparent but the other will cover good Gunze tamyia isopropil or specific thinner ak enamel , model master tamyia yellow cap or specific thinner thinning vareie fro airbrush to airbrush hope is usefull
  5. Hi Crisp In my long career I built everything, ships fascinate me but honestly I wouldn't have the patience to work on a model for too longtime. I have the Surprise in 1:72 on my shelf, sometimes I open the box to check the pieces, read the instructions and ... I close everything and put it back in place I know I wouldn't finish it, maybe when I'm retired I will have time and patience. For now my philosophy is that a kit is like milk has an expiration date. I would like to make some excursions from my main interest: the airplanes,because I discover technics that can be useful to me anyway. Returning to your work is really impressive and to think that you have to do it also on the other side. I will follow you with interest
  6. F A N T A S T I C W O R K!!!!!!! Put in the favorites. The gothta is one of the ww1 planes that I prefer but the space available is little, in 1:32 then I can't afford it and in 1:48 it's hard to find or almost. I will follow you with interest and healthy envy
  7. Hi Claudius great start. I will follow you with interest
  8. Hi Giorgio . Normally I am not attracted by the 1:72 scale, I read this post all at once because I really like the Eurofighter. Apart the upgrade work, I was shocked by the amount of work you had to do to make this model decent. I never imagined that a Revell model was so inaccurate, by comparison some short runs look like Tamiya. Congratulations for the work done so far, I await the end with interest
  9. Hi RCI Great job with those engines, fortunately there is a lot of space to fill the canopy of what I saw that the fitting is not the best. I always wanted to have a civilian plane in my collection, when I was little I built the 747 of the Airfix with poor results, if I can get my hands on the Simson plane I think I'll have fun building it
  10. Great work resin engine improve the kit Bravo
  11. Hi Jonny great gob . Your preshading is very simlar to mine brown or green ? Frist brown very thinned 80/90% so you can controll exactly the effect,3-4 coat the let dry a night so you can verify the color coverage (to add color you are always in time). For post use some drop of chocolate brown very dilued around pannel edge and base + some drop sail color or similar for center pannel 90% thinnned no more than 2 coat every time: is a long and tedious steps but give satisfaction. Cheers
  12. Hi Andy tnx I've used soft pastel from Rembrant or W&N (U can read exactily color above in the tread) reduced in powder then passed whit a brush,thin passage up to desired effect.fix all whit a clear coat. Wash whit oil (cassel brown and a little black thinned in petrol or light essence as Troy suggest) then flat coat prepare the surface for pigment(I've useed Mig black smoke,desert earth). Scratch whit sponge and brush, I prefer the second metod that are more controllable,the sponge metod for diffuse scrath. Oil stain from Mig(a gelly mix very convincent). But the 1st thing"patience" then "patience",thik 3 time before aply scrath must be pertinent. For any help feel free to ask
  13. Yes the goal is approaching, the Spit is almost finished, some things remain to do but the big job has been done. I wanted to give the model a really worn and somewhat unkempt look due to hyperactivity and the desert climate that certainly does not help the good maintenance of the vehicle. Obviously there is no opaque coat as I have to adjust the pigments a bit, and some accessories such as the various lights, the antenna, the door and then finally glue the canopy and propeller. Pictures Last considerations, the kit mounts really well, the decals on the other hand drove me crazy while being Cartograf I struggled in detaching from the support, even 5 minutes waiting to soak, and then the difficulty to make them slide on the model, I used both the microsol and Mr. soft but as you can see they don't adhering to the panels, silvering problems even after a generous coat of gloss on the zone and on the wings I noticed a rippling principle that I hope will disappear with the matt coat. As usual C.C.C.s always welcome
  14. Tnx Troy usefull I've fixed my mistake but I've followed Eduard guide that put the roundel far ahead. This night I'll place he decals. Question 1 roundel & 1star or 2 roundel in lower surface? I hope an answer before placing I'vnt no extra star,Eduard give the 2 options if 1st option I must search a new yellow circled star in my kit depot.
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