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spartacus2000

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About spartacus2000

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  1. Tnx for comment, AMG and DoraWings share the same plastic,the frist have the option to replic all the pre "E" version of the me 109(with minor intervention by the modeller to respesct the little change betweent version),and the full strencils when DW is poor. I dont know if there are other kit but I thnk not,the frist versions of the me 109 are not so popular
  2. HI to all. This time only photos without comments since the photos are self-explanatory, national insignia,unit and walkaway are painted, I reproduced the decals on vinyl. Only incident the right wing tip broke and I had to redo it with a piece of plasticard, nothing difficult but quite annoying. For the rest all textbook, the model is now waiting for the complete drying of the transparent for the installation of the service decals (few to tell the truth) then I will touch up some smears before giving the second coat of clear to seal the decals and assembly of the most fragile parts. I hope to finish this week to start a new kit, before my laboratory gets too cold and winter season work absorbs all my energy. That's all Cheers
  3. Hello everyone ... to tell the truth to the few aficionados, but let's proceed anyway Phase 3 painting Here we are at the stage that I prefer. I used the ModelMaster colors for the RLM 63 and RLM65 which I find very responsive to my sources and for the green RLM 62 instead I used the color of the AK interactive because strangely it is not present in the ModelMaster range (or maybe it is but not as RLM) However, this mix of various brands allows me to retouch the "62" in case something does not go as it should as with a little alcohol I can correct any errors or smudges but fortunately I did not have to intervene except in a point where the tape does not adhered to a paneling). lower surfaces: preshading with Gunze blue, panels lightened with + white, final coat with RLM 65 (the photo has turned a little towards blue) Preshading rlm 66 Gunze + white for the light of the panels and coverage with many coats of RLM 63 very diluted (70-80%) to better manage transparencies, wet on wet process with dry time of about 10-15 min and left rest all night to resume with the final cover the day after. Long but very satisfying processing as a final result, that is While the color was drying I spent the time preparing and detailing the trolleys, the kit is a bit sparse and the leg covers have been plastered as they have plastic shrinkages, but nothing impossible It's time for RLM 62, after the masking I performed a preshading with RLM70 and + white for the light of the panels, then a coat of flat clear was passed to seal the edges of the masking followed with the passes of "62" also here wet on wet but luckly the color dries faster so the waiting time between coats was 5 min (it took me longer to mask and remove the tape than to paint). Final results Ok that's all for now, I'll get to the PC to draw and cut the masks of the unit code Cheers
  4. CHAPTER 2 We left ourselves at step number 2 of gluing the wings, so in the following pictures we resume with step number 3 and the various phases of gluing the various parts of the engine hood and air intake of the water radiator, also here carried out in steps: first one side and then the other, verifying the fitting and thinning the walls in contact with the fuselage as they form a step that would then need to be smoothed from the outside, losing details that would then be difficult to reproduce . The root of the wing has been re-engraved as from the Kagero drawings the paneling of the kit is wrong REVI It's time to close the cockpit so it's up to the collimator, I used that of the Airs even if it is supplied in resin by the kit and I also added the electrical connection cable to the dashboard, I placed it before gluing the windshield CANOPY here there is a big problem: the various pieces do not coincide there is a difference of 1mm more, so I had to file a little to make sure that the central part fits between the 2 sides, work a bit delicate because : risks to make the frames disappear (low camera battery so be satisfied with the quality) FINAL ASSEMBLY) The model is now ready for painting but this to the next episode. That's all for now cheers
  5. Hello everyone, here I am back to you with a new project, this time a slightly more hard kit than usual: the Me bf 109 A / B by Dora wings. The kit is a multimedia short run style kit with P.E. parts, resin and film for the dashboard as well as plastic obviously. It is a rebox of the early me 109 series already presented by AMG in 2017, while the Dora wins only have the pieces necessary for the A / B version, the AMGs have the possibility of reproducing versions up to D, externally it changes only a little propellers for the B / C / D which are in metal with variable pitch while they are in wood for the versions A and early B (B0 and B1) and the upper part of the engine cover and internally for the layout of the dashboard as in reality the first versions were equipped with engines other than the C and D. The plastic is quite soft and well workable but not free from smudges, the detail of the surfaces is good but for lovers of rivets if they want them they must reproduce them as the panels are completely free of them. Comparing the sources available to me I would say that the kit is accurate so now we can start with the wip BOX ART The first 109 models have a cockpit very similar to the E so I decided to use parts of an old set of the Aires from which I had taken some parts so unusable for a complete kit and I integrated the pieces of the Dora kit to retrofit the all to the right version. In the following photos the similarities are evident and then the breakdown of the kit helps the exchange as they fit perfectly decidedly more detailed tub Aires parts above, Dora Wings below I decided to use the seat from the kit as it is much more detailed than the Ares, from the latter I only took the support structure of the seat the pedal are that of the kit as in version E the pedals are punctured while up to D the latter are without lightening holes, I decided to thin them and to use the copper wire in place of the P.E. that are flat (then not you see nothing .... anyway). The side walls haven't undergone many changes, just the addition of the suit's heating system (I think) and some electrical cables and a different type of trottle on the other side. The seat received a 0.2mm lead wire edge to accentuate the almost absent profile, and the height adjustment system. COCKPIT PAINTING The photos were taken with the super macro so you will see all the imperfections that are not noticed with the naked eye WINGS Once the cockpit was filed and the fuselage closed, which among other things did not give any particular problems, apart from the usual grouting in the joints but not that important, the problem arises in the union between the fuselage and the wings. As I have already operated in the previous models, I proceed in 3 steps, I start with the gluing of the lower part of the wings paying close attention to the fitting especially in the back part which in this case had to be thinned at the root as it formed a step of 0, 5mm and so I saved myself a lot of sanding work (a bit of putty in the cracks will be enough) in the front part instead I had to touch up a part of the fuselage as the well bay prevented perfect alignment The black area must be eliminated to make the pieces fit together Work finished but .... Unfortunately I had to detach everything, because the wellbay also disturbs the upper part of the wings so that the step that would have been formed would have lost important details in case of sanding of the area between wings and fuselage so armed with Dremell and patience I arrived at this result So I restarted with step Num 1 and waited for the glue to dry completely Step num 2
  6. Hi everyone I had a lot of fun with this kit. The assembly did not reserve any particular surprises, the fitting is very good and in the Profi version there is everything you need to make a great model (not mine of course). I washed with payne gray on the lower surfaces, for the upper ones I added Mars black to the mixture to bring up the main panels while I kept the mixture of the lower areas for the rest of the details. I passed light glazes as a filter in payne gray + a touch of Paris blue for the lower surfaces and payne gray + gray (Lamp black + titanium white) for the upper areas. Chipping is at a minimum. PHOTO See you on your next adventure ... I plan to make a Teutonic aircraft again
  7. Hello Walter, enough but not so much, just the chess area (2-3 hours), the rest it's all freehand
  8. Good evening everyone. Here are the Updates for today. The time has come for the decals and unfortunately as I have already noticed with Eduard's kits this is the weak point of the Czech house, I have found a decisive step backwards since they no longer entrust this task to Cartograph, in fact they are difficult to position, very fragile and the color tends to flake off if the decal undergoes 2 or 3 folds and in this case some out of register. All these problems forced me to design masks to make up for these shortcomings. Here's how I came up with it anyway The upper crosses were painted as the decals crumpled as soon as I tried to place them: -coccio here, on the other hand, the black of the cross has detached due to a fold of the same fortunately the personal crest survived the displacement otherwise it would have been really difficult to reproduce Lucki The Walkaways are out of register, even if just 1mm x1mm the white border is very visible; so .... Custom mask and painting process 1 step flat clear to seal 2 step red Gunze The final result is not excellent but I am satisfied as it remains in the window will not go to any contest This is the end of the spinner on the ogive for which I put my hand to the pc and cut out the mask indeed 4 to be sure (then it will not be the last 190 of my life so it will be used in the future) Result Even here it is not perfect but those who are satisfied enjoy .....
  9. Thanks for the comments @ luftmodels; I don't think I have understood your intervention well. Anyway the cowling painting procedure was: 1 white on all cowling 2 masking of the areas that should have remained white (in this case covered with black vinyl-the only color I've in this moment) 3 sealed the edges with clear 4 black on the uncovered areas
  10. 1568/5000 Hi everyone . Here are today's updates. CHESS BOARD COMPLETED I decided to use the masks instead of the decals as I am convinced of going less crazy so that with the positioning of the latter, in the front part of the hood I used the Tamiya tape as it is much more flexible than vinyl. - SMALL TIP - After placing the squares, I sprayed clear to seal the edges of the vinyl so that if there was any infiltration, it would be invisible. Here is the result, obviously there are some small imperfections especially in the machine gun area as the vinyl has lifted as I passed the black, but the retouches are very few The yellow RLM 04 is also done. Now I have to fix some mottles on the fuselage and part of the camo on the right wing. That's all for now
  11. Hello, great work : attention to detail and coloring, the model is very intriguing and comes out of the usual military aircraft, even if from manga the aircraft is very well designed, it could easily be a plane that really existed (maybe without the details here conspicuously cartoon). Only flaw, But it is my very personal opinion; the red is too bright, you will surely have followed the assembly instructions but for me a darker red like a Ferrari red would have been much better. However, I renew the compliments I really like it very much, if I find it around I will definitely buy it
  12. Fantastic work on both the propeller and the interiors, The 1:32 is unforgiving and there is always the risk of making the models look like toys and not replicas. I will follow you interested
  13. Great work as so far. I've the Classic Airframes midway vesion whit CMK interiors so I'll folow you whit interess. Bravo!!
  14. Hi everyone. Here some update ENGINE I complained about the lack of details in the engine area so equipped with patience, glasses and copper wire, I added the spark plug cables colored in brown, cylinders and push rods in black, heads in aluminum I also added the 0.8mm copper distribution ring. However, all this work will remain hidden by the cooling fan so I work almost useless and I understand why Eduard has not wasted energy in detailing this area, leaving the modeller the choice to buy a super-detailed engine separately when he wants to leave it in sight. PRESHADING I did a search for color matching with the book that I have as a reference for the luftwaffe planes, that is the fantastic book of the Monogram dedicated with the 10x10 chips of the colors painted and not lithographed. Among all the colors in my possession, the choice fell on the ModelMasters that are the most correct. For the preshading I still used the Gunze: the Phthalo cyanne blue H322 for the main panels of the areas that will receive the RLM76, a mix of H322 and blue gray H42 to break up the monotony of the surfaces and gray FS36622 for the light areas and for the surfaces in RLM 76 and for those in RLM 74 and 75; for these two areas I used H68 and H69 respectively by Gunze + black in the mix to profile the main panels of the upper surfaces. CAMO As mentioned above, the colors of the camo are the ModelMaster, solvent-based colors no longer available in Italy of which I did a little stock before their withdrawal from the market. I used their thinner but White Spirit is fine anyway, the dilution is 70% thinner 30% color, a mixture that allowed me to better manage the transparency of the preshading which is visible but not showy. Here is the result For now that's all I have to wait at least a day for the color to dry well and resume with the rest of the camo and the checkerboard:
  15. Hi everyone . Here I am with a new project, one of the last kits from the Czech manufacturer dedicated to the Fw-190 a6, as the title suggests I think it is a new mold as I had another one (later sold) which if I remember correctly was different. .. but the way old age incipit so I can be wrong. But let's come to us, the kit is a profipack so it has practically everything you need to bring out a model with a minimum of more detail. The thing that attracted me is the checkerboard on the bonnet. Piloted by Lt. Heinz-Günther Lück, 1./JG 1, Deelen, Holland August 1943, this hi-viz checker board was abandoned when the P-47s appeared with the same coloration that at the beginning confused the anti-aircraft units. The build will be OOB and I think to add only the cables of the motor which unfortunately is a bit too spartan. BOX ART COCKPIT I used P.E. instead of painting the various pieces because in addition to being lazy (and the heat does not help), once the fuselage is closed there is very little to see so I was satisfied in this way, I also regretted having used the pedals in P.E. that I could have used for another model on which we remain more visible, but now it's done so that's okay. For the colors I used the Gunze RLM66, with oil washes and drybrushes with the 175 Humbrol. Cushion and seat were oil painted with a mix of alizarin red, Pozuoli red and pink ocher for the lights, same mix for the Revi pad, the dashboard lid edge will also receive the same color. WINGS This time I used a different method to join the wings to the fuselage as a plastering and sanding intervention would cause an inevitable loss of surface details, especially the hinges of the 30 mm wing cannon compartment so I proceeded in this way. PHASE 1 After having glued and painted the details of the weel well, I glued the lower part of the wings by matching the lower part of the bonnet to the lower area of the wing dihedral (to say that the fitting is crazy, there is no need for putty "chapeau" to the Eduard ingeneers). STEP 2 After inserting the lid of the guns, I aligned the rest of the upper wing and glued it (the design work is fantastic too) with the result that it looks like a single piece, no steps or cracks have formed to retouch. PHASE 3 After one night to let everything dry I glued the rest of the wings. For now, the whole model seems to me very promising, the fitting is perfect (the imperfections visible in the photos are due to my mistakes) the only drawback is the hood of the fuselage machine guns which in my kit was a little deformed but nothing irremediable with a little bit of MR Surfacer.
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