Jump to content

alteregoni

Members
  • Posts

    81
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by alteregoni

  1. Oh my, truly stunning work! Did those kevlar decals came with detail set? They look so real too, what is not the case in every decal manufacturer.
  2. That is one spectacular weathering there!
  3. Hi folks! This was a kit that I was after so long time, but prices in ebay were pretty steep. I was lucky to found this in domestic market place in reasonible 35 euros plus 11 euros photo etch set from ebay. First I thought that I'm not going to post this build. BUT, then I thought that maybe it's refreshing to show when things go wrong due yourself or the kit itself. And here it is:' Maybe it's good to start where this everything begun, here is link to that: So as many of you know, Tamiya decals can be issue sometimes. Since there were no reliable decals make box stock looking car, I first thought that I go silver livery, but then I found Gigi Galli decals. So yellow it was. Everything was paint to match red livery so paint stripping and repainting it was. Little difficult to repaint those wheel arches. So not my own mistakes yet... But here is first, and it was epic! Don¨t really know what I was thinking, but I somehow decided to strip paint from spoiler with thinner. Gladly I realize what I was doing pretty fast, and managed to neutralize melting process with water. But after that spoiler surface was smooth as gravel road! . So some heavy putty work to do...result was acceptable, but no perfect in any means. After that things go pretty smooth till decaling and painting process. In cockpit I added carbon decals, and some wiring and piping. Also made fuel tank, and fuel lines, although they can't be seen when body is on it's place. Also change seatbelt material little more realistic looking than what Tamiya provide in it's detail set. Painting itself went pretty good. Decanned Tamiya Chrome yellow thinned with retarder type Tamiya laquer thinner. After decaling body everything was clear coated with MRP 2K super clear. First time using that, and have to say it is great stuff. Little more time consuming that Zero etc, because you have to put three light coats before wet coat. After first wet coat I was not happy with shine, but after second wet, surface was really good. Minor orange here there, but that's more users error than product it self. Highly recommend that, and you don't have to thin it, just mix 1:1 and its good to go at least with my 0.5 needle. So no polishing or nothing, surface is glossy and smooth enough to a rally car. My last fail was when I paint side window frames. I forgot to weaken masking tape bonding force...so it rip part of decals off. Also made couple mistakes during decaling. And here is result of that.... I have ordered another set of Renaissance decals from Domino Models. So I can correct those ripped decals, but they are going to be without clear. Gladly they are quite glossy. After all, this was not as cheap, due repaint and two set of decals. But sometimes it is what it is, and we learn from these. I will edit. another picture when there is new decals on those damaged ones, and antennas are on. Cheers! Pekka
  4. Here in Finland you can get those touch up paints from car paint stores. Or on rattle can or kind of what you need. They produce those paints from demand, only you need to know is paint code. And you can thin it with thinner,here in Finland they offer correct thinner also, in package size you need Don't know policy of your country, but I think it's worth looking for.
  5. Thank you for the tip. I will get Dot4 fluid also. I think I'v used that fluid to strip Tamiya acryl paint, and Tamiya primer went of with brake cleaner (isopropanol?) Sometimes I have just sanded paint down, but that is not what I prefer, because you can lose shape and detail on piece itself. Has anyone tried those paint strippers that Zero and other sell? Are they same stuff than these? I have also industrial paint stripper, but it could effect plastic.
  6. Thanks for the info, is it due clear eating through decals then? I found some decals to go with red from ebay. Some French manufacturer called Rallye-Miniatyre. Never heard of that before, thou they have web shop and Facebook account. But don't know anymore, what to do. I afraid that I'm too weak hearted to paint white stripes. Body is very close to go swimming in brake fluid. Little bit fell on Studio 27 "Yacco" livery. This build had been one those "those" build's. I failed painting, surprise suprise, white stripe on rear wing. So paint stripping it goes. And what idiot of me did? Dip it into thinner!! . And guess what? Yes, correct melted a little bit. Cladly I realized my fatal error quite soon, and washed thinner away pretty fast. But of course surface on that piece was little bit critty. So some major putty worth there. But we live and learn. Huge thanks all of for the help and tips! Really appreciate it. Pekka Edit. Ps Is brake fluid best way to strip paint? I'v used Tamiya LP paints and primer is MR.Surfacer
  7. Yes I really have to talk to myself, am I really upp to task to paint those white stripes. The trust is not huge to my skills in this job. There is one "Astra" decal set from Studio 27 and Renessaince, what goes with red, but it is not really good looking scheme. Well it is Gardemaisters car thou... Maybe I start interior and se if seat decals etc. are okey. Pekka
  8. Sorry about bad picture. Decals what i meant are just like number 11 on the left. And it goes there where my majestic photo shop skills show So some bending to do. And yes, I guess those could be painted also, but there are many of those so masking job is not so tempting. And it already clear coated once to protect those white decals to become pink. So paint layers could come quite big, if you want those parts to be white. Also I'm planning to put some 2k clear on top of everything.
  9. I have too searched in depths of internet but was not able to find any. Tons of different scheme are viable, but then is this color issue. I'v used Tamiya Strong Decal softener, and still decal cracked. Even when I tried to correct position it split in halves. While ago I build Italeri old Scania to my brother, and decals were really suspicious, but they were great. And that kit was from 90'. Is it something to do with white color of the decal, don't know,or it this Tamiya's own decal issue...
  10. Hi all! So the decals were cooked. Especially white stripe ones cracked even in slightest movement. Also they were really stuck on backing papers. Seems that adhesive was dried out. I have used much older Tamiya decals without issue, but these are gone. Or might be that this was user error. Does anyone know is there original "Marlboro" looking decals available on any brand? Problem is, that everything is already painted in red. Cheers Pekka
  11. Masterpiece. Truly next level skills you have there!
  12. Thanks! But pictures "do the justice" little too much to the paint job quality. Quality varieties throughout the body, roof is worst. But when look it afar it's really good, but in close you could see rough surface and orange peel. But as I said that could have been polished away, but maybe I was too afraid to doo that. I fear that I ruin it, because I'v had painted it already so many times due mistakes.
  13. Exactly. . I wish Tamiya had kept those original treaded tyres. But maybe if they come across on ebay or elsewhere, I may get those if the price is reasonable.
  14. You truly master weathering! Marvelous job mate!
  15. What of marvelous customisation here! Excellent color choice too!
  16. Sorry for your and your missus loss, my condolences. Magnificent built, great tribute to him.
  17. I would like to show you my finished project. It's Tamiya Porsche 934 Turbo RSR. I decided to turn it to a 930 ish. I tried to achieve something "Singer style" Porsche here. So some major work has been done mostly in interior part. But also I smoothed those wheel arches, and made couple other minor modification on body work. Seats are 3d printed from Shapeways by Ron Olsen. My phone do not pick body color exactly right. Color is from Ral chart ral 6033 mint turquoise, and top of that Zero Diamond finnish. Interior paint is also from Zero Ferrari Cuoio. In overall I'm pretty happy with the result. Paint job could be better, it is glossy, but surface is not very smooth. I'm not polishing kind of guy, but due this project maybe I have to Start to be that kind of guy. WIP here: https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235077198-tamiya-porsche-934-rsr-112/ So here are pictures. Feel free to give some feedback. Pekka
  18. Oh yeah! I found Tamiya's Peugeot 307 Wrc at 35€ in the domestic "eBay" called tori.fi. In Ebay those have astronomical prices. But in Ebay seller from Italy sold Detail up set on Peugeot 11€, bargain also.
  19. Nice build here! At moment I'm exact same model! This is nice simple kit excluded painting. Some serious masking and fine detail painting here and there.
  20. Amazing...just amazing, looks so real.
  21. Final post. After year or so it is finally done. Door panels. These were pain to work with due the material. Material is rubber like bendy and soft stuff. So you can guess how easily paint cracks off. But result is decent. Zero interior paint here on top of Tamiya surface primer. Change those original screws to flat domed head screws. I Drill holes little big bigger and glued those in. Pretty happy about outcome excluding body paint quality. I had quite big issues with it paint it two times and still it is not perfect. Base coat is glossy 2k automotive paint and top coat is Zero 2k Diamond finnish. I really struggle to get right mixture on both. Always they seem to be too thick. After several attempt managed to get right mixture for the base coat, but always struggle with clear. Maybe hardener on clear was little too old, and started to dry by itself. So after that didn't dare to polish it. Surface on some parts is little gritty and orange peely. I only put some wax on it that's it. In future I really have practice that polishing thing to achieve glass like surface. But it is glossy and shiny, and I am ok with it. Where I'm really happy and little bit of proud too, is body modification. It turns out really nice. And overall I managed to get what I was looking for. Turn this racing machine to street car, never done anything like this before. Door window frames are Molotow via airbrush and other frames are Bare metal foil. Mirrors and door handles are also Molotow via airbrush So here is result, more on ready to inspect section.
  22. Definitely will follow this. My opinion is that this model lacks in details. It's missing surprisingly much quite important details and parts. But what you have in your hands it is gonna be marvelous! I only wish that at the time when I build mine, there was these upgrade sets. But fortunately Thunder Valley F1 was making upgrade parts on Williams. Here is my take on this one of the most beautiful F1 car ever.
×
×
  • Create New...