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Everything posted by Stickframe

  1. This is all looking really good - the clutch mechanism is great! Nice touch - Nick
  2. Well guys, I'm still moving on this, albeit at a ridiculously slow pace. Malc and Ron, thanks - despite the pace, I really enjoy this type of work. Seeing what you both are doing has certainly set a high bar for what modifications/scratch on race cars can be! So, here we go - first, one more shot of the rear hubs: I know - It seems I'm showing the same thing over and over, but no - it keeps getting modified. The two additions above include the brass "U" shape bracket on the interior, which is where the shocks will mount. Next, the aluminum triangle shapes,
  3. HI Ron, Short of sounding like a broken record, what I think is most interesting about this work is the contrast between textures (In addition to the obvious overall project), in that as a viewer, you can tell what is representing cast, machined, or other surfaces, plus of course the weathering throughout! And, when this is all done, I'm sure you'll pluck that brass eyebolt out of the torque wrench and reuse it on a kit! Cheers Nick
  4. Hi Malc, This build will be great to watch - looking forward to seeing how it all comes together. Nice to see you cut the air intake out. It seems many of the resin kits send out blocks of materials for key body parts, but skip out even general representation of the underside. I usually consider carving/cutting the bulk material out too, and typically remove at least some of it. I've got a kit lined up for the next project and will need to consider how much to cut! So interesting to see how you're doing this. On another post you asked me about some photo etch I us
  5. Great build, there's lots of nice stuff going on here - a bit of humor, not over the top with weathering - and the overall concept! The dedicated, maybe ornery mechanic, just like real life MAK or otherwise! Cheers Nick
  6. The mechanics might be out to lunch now, but, they sure did a great job while they were working on this! Wow! I really like the black sleeves you added where the fuel lines connect to the injectors - they push it over the top in terms of realism - very nice touch! Cheers, looking forward to the next post! Nick
  7. @Codger, thanks for posting all of this info. I haven't built a Pocher kit, but do like to try and go beyond what's in the box on builds. So, Pocher or not, it's the process! not only impressive in it's own right, but inspiring, and helpful - along the lines of "oh...that's how you do it!" Cheers Nick
  8. HI Ron, This is shaping up nicely - it was worth it to adjust the tee fittings in the back, which really looks good. And the exhaust springs, look the part. Just curious, are you drilling out, then inserting metal tube/rod into the cast fittings? I hate to be isolating and stating the oblivious, but the fuel injection connections look great too! Ha - your build is so nice, that it's easy to focus on various bits that make up the whole! Thanks for providing these incremental steps. cheers Nick
  9. Hi guys, I'm still in the world of small fabrication - on the same parts, the rear hubs. Take a look: This is the receiver for the upper control/four link set up. I got the idea looking at Ron's build - though he was using nice metal parts. You can see on the left, I tried alu tubing, then alu sheet metal, and now, styrene. Not beautiful, but getting close. Next, I'll try alu rod. Who knows though? this might be it. And for some context: Above, you can see them in use. And some small rods- call me co
  10. Despite your headaches with the warp, the build is coming along nicely! Take a look, saw this over the weekend: This guy certainly likes his! I see this whenever driving to my parent's place - and it's always shiny! Cheers Nick
  11. Hello guys, on a grey day today, I was running errands when I passed this place. Not a new find, but something I never thought to take a picture of: This place is always overflowing with buses! all vintages, two, all wheel drive, you name it. There are usually a few pretty full-on, off road ready versions out front, too bad none today. And of course, the surrounding streets are lined with buses in various states of decrepitude. If your a bus nut, this is your place! Cheers Nick
  12. HI Ron, I see, and now need to graduate from the general wash to the intentional outline! I like the way you have kept control of the grime - along edges, not simply across all surfaces with the hope for color buildup where you want it - like above, and on the gearshift you shared much earlier in this post. It looks just right and not overdone. Watching you do this, I now understand that you add (intentional) layers of color to achieve texture, then go back with another color to outline edges - which makes perfect sense and looks the part. Now to try it a few times and see how i
  13. Hi Dan, As always, your work on the details is inspiring - Cheers Nick
  14. The subtle grime is really convincing, as it closely wraps where it "should" and doesn't become a uniform wash - really nice!
  15. Hello guys, Over the weekend I went to visit my parents, and came across this Chevy SSR. Quite an interesting "truck". I've seen this parked here before. As you can see, it's well cared for: I don't know how well they perform, or if more of a novelty? On a separate note, on the way, I thought about the comments above, regarding the mini driving alongside the various SUV's and V8s out and about. As I was actively paying attention to what I was driving among (maybe and hour and a half on the road), there were indeed plenty of SUV's,
  16. HI Ron, thanks - yes, eye bolts are certainly a fun piece of hardware to fool around with. Thanks for the tip on using the banjo fitting - that's a really good idea. You might see it pop up on this build! I ordered some top studio fittings a while back, but from a source I'm not familiar with - I hope they send the parts! Hi Chris, thanks - I came across RB Motion a while ago, but veered away because the parts seemed most well suited for 1/12 scale. Recently tho, I carefully looked at the dimensions, and realized some parts would work well for 1/20. As to the pricing, it's n
  17. Well guys, progress has been a bit slow - jumping between work, real life and model building, but, I have kept at it. Spending some time with the rear suspension and the cabin. First up, the rear end. As this model will be shown, under repair, with the end of the block and clutch exposed, it will reflect a higher level of detail in these areas than commonly represented. As such, the same goes for the rest of what will still be evident on the rear end. Starting with a prototype photo: For this build, I will keep the Tamiya outer (cast) housing, then replace or modi
  18. HI Ron, I've been looking at your recent updates on my phone trying to enlarge etc - the images look even better on the laptop screen! Not just shiny objects! With the computer, I can now clearly see the banjo fitting - hats off to you for fixing that. Probably quite frustrating, but the results are worth it. The added bolts and tie wire is a nice detail, very convincing. I've seen these "chained" together as you've shown. To echo others, your steadfast application of texture, but now, with added twist of hierarchy of color variations, are really nice! Looking forward to your next pos
  19. Hello guys, some variety in the Nhood in the last few days: Above, the mid 70's Chevy square body - you can see, it's lowered, wider tires, no rear bumper and matte gunmetal color. These commonly run the Chevy 350 small block, carbureted, often with a new cam and headers - noisy and fast. Ahead of it BTW is a 5.0l Mustang - almost ubiquitous around certain nhoods - note the larger (diameter and width) than stock rims he has on it. And as nhoods change, the BMW. Now, something a bit less likely to be seen around:
  20. This is a fascinating build - masterfully prepared, truly remarkable, and very interesting to see. Looking back to the top of this page, and the comment about the pins located at the ends of the spring packs - is very interesting. As shown in your prototype photos, they are certainly there, which is indeed surprising, as with compression, it seems as though the pack would attempt (cause a reaction) to shear them off. On the other hand, if they only connect the return from the lower leaf and go through a single, thicker "helper" spring, there might/must be: 1) enough room betwee
  21. Simply, beautiful work - really a pleasure and inspiration to see - Cheers Nick
  22. @silver911, Yes, Ron, it's an illness.... , it's a sad, sad situation! haha - and, yes, I'm planning to try your two layer painting technique, then oils on this! Adding to the challenge - looking at the images (plus many others) - some raw aluminum, others treated in black...others, mixed - I'll opt for the latter - lower in aluminum, upper, black. I like that look. @Mumbly - well...what to do with that info........maybe show the wing partially painted, but sanded back to reveal the carbon fiber? sitting next to the car or on a workbench or shelf? no
  23. Hi Ron, I think it's really interesting to see how you've been able to match/illustrate texture over the color base. It is clearly evident, but not overpowering - so it looks like a casting, and not a non-slip surface texture (like the decks on an armored vehicle) - looks great. You are making it tempting to leave 1/20 in the past! That said, I will try this. I use the Vallejo Metal Color, which is very fine, so might be able to achieve, or at least try to achieve your base color method. Then....attempt the oils, at least on the large surface areas. Looking forward to your n
  24. Hello guys, Time to start a new build - this time, the Tamiya Wolf WR1. It's the appropriate vintage, and of course includes the DFV engine! Before starting, it was obvious, the bench needed to be cleaned up: Now, that's better! A respectable place to carry out the essential task of building models! haha - On we go. First up, take a look at the difference between Hasegawa (left) back-of-block/heads, and the Tamiya (right): I really wish I'd have looked at this before I went about scratch building this for t
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