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About nsmekanik

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  • Birthday 08/31/1960

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    Nanton Ab canada

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  1. Looks like you've got your work cut out for you with that Wellington, I shall be watching this thread with great interest.
  2. Oh nice, another CedB master piece in the making I've got one hiding in the "I'm workin on it" pile. A couple of things you might be interested in, being a bit off in the head I decided to build up paint and install the landing gear before gluing the wing halves together, on the other hand if you are going to do a wheels up..........the other thing is I found the nacelle fit to be rather nasty so I trimmed all the alignment goodies off and added a couple of tabs to make it easier to adjust things.
  3. If you are not really really happy right now you are going to be
  4. For instructions, which are not the greatest quality, look here.. There really isn't a lot of pics period of the 321, let alone good quality ones, but from what I have and can find in the book I have, I'm of the opinion that the doors were either over painted in something like RLM 02, maybe RLM 66, or as Troy says, the camo color. for the rest of the interior I strongly suspect RLM 02 frames with the covering in red dope. the interior of the side door is a light color such as RLM 02. the cockpit was most probably RLM 02.
  5. As a fantasy it's not so far off reality as the Germans, among many others including the Fins made pretty good use of modified captured equipment. one possible scenario is the Finns capturing a Russian example and re-engining it with a DB whatever, or the Germans/Italians doing the same with captured examples in North Africa using a Manufacturers supplied kit. I think there are a lot of possibilities and camo options.
  6. Nick offers his MAP/RAF Paint Colour Standards 1939-451 PDF file on his Aviation of Japan blog for 12.99 pounds (can't find the symbol), He give the values in FS, Munsel, and RAL. If you are interested in purchasing a copy he's been a bit busy with family so might be a bit before he gets back to you.
  7. I think it all depends on what you are looking for, having one on the bench I can say I would certainly recommend it to a novice builder, as it's not at all difficult to build, that said details are a bit sparse and simplified. There isn't a lack of dihedral, there is just not enough, personally, I don't think fixing that is worth the bother. The main wheels, on the other hand, are abysmal. Since I have both the Hasegawa and an Airfix kit with all the fixins I stole the wheels out of the Hasegawa kit, which I'll replace from the Airfix kit, and shimmed them to fit the Revel kit. For a cheap and easy quick build I'd say go for it, if you want something a bit more detailed I'd say get the Airfix or Hasegawa kit
  8. nsmekanik

    Luft'46 kits

    Because I feel like showing off Revels BV 194 is a pretty nice kit, the only bugaboo is the wheel well walls split in the middle and don't line up that well, but I just used tape to mimic canvas, and my way of opening the bomb bay isn't what the instruction suggest
  9. Some collector rings were painted black, here you can see some of the paint worn away A color pic and one in Italian service with unpainted rings And some Lysander pics which should help give a good idea what they look like You will notice the foremost ring remains aluminish as it doesn't get as hot and some Hurricane exhaust which is made of the same material
  10. So Iasked this question over at Soviet War Planes and Massimo was kind enough to point me to this page Painting of Soviet military planes 1937-1950: internal surfaces and primers , if you scroll down there is a picture of a Yak 25 M cockpit in a green color which is assumed to be A-15.
  11. Looking forward to seeing you work you magic with this one, always enjoy your work I'm going to lay odds we'll see a Hampden before a Battle, so you'll have time to enjoy the fruits of your labor, good job by the way, before disappointment sets in, either way I do appreciate you taking one for the team
  12. And so here's where it's at at the moment, got the upper nose fitted, the shim I think worked out much better then sanding down the lower part to fit. and all masked up to paint the sill, I use Badgers Stynelrez when I'm not using Mr.Surfacer. Stynelrez can be easily thinned with alcohol if it seems to be getting a bit on the thick side, I use Tamiya's X20A, which I no longer use to thin paint with and I still have a lot of. I've tried Vallejo's but I don't get on well with it. Now the main fuselage is finished up except for the set of gauges behind the pilot, I'll ad the tail planes after I put on the main wings...... Oh yes......the wings.....the way Eduard engineered the landing gear things are a bit delicate and easily broken if one is not careful, so having the nacelles partially assembled even is a bit of an insurance policy Ah yes......sticky outy bits looking to get mangled, the air tanks and the landing gear has to go in before the wing halves are joined I just glue the wing halve up to the flap line from the fuselage joint, and make sure everything is squared up, they are warped a bit but the trialing edge behind the wheel bay has a lip so that section is quite straight. Once that bit has set up I flood the tabs with Extra Thin sand hold them together with a pair of pliers as they won't close up on their own.
  13. Thanks again Jure, much appreciated. those early Yaks are in pretty rough shape sadly.....but good reference.
  14. I don't have a favorite, I'm just happy Airfix put out the MK1/1b and I look forward to a MK IV, if I had to pick one over the other it would come down to history and markings options.
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