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Arild Moland

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About Arild Moland

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    Telemark, Norway

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  1. Looking real good! About the soldering, I notice you get blobs of solder sitting on the parts. Are you using any kind of flux medium when soldering? I recommend applying a bit of liquid flux to the joint, as this will greatly improve the flow of the solder. I also use a gas torch for soldering. I apply a bit of flux to the joint, apply a flash of heat, then place a small lump of solder at the joint, and apply heat again. The solder will then melt and follow the joint by way of the capillary effect. Never got the hang of using a soldering iron for my PE. Arild
  2. Modelkasten has great detail, but can be labour intensive depending on the track in question. Tiger I tracks for instance assembles the same way Rye Field tracks does, ie with separate guide horns... Master Club resin tracks are superbly detailed and easy to assemble. Friuls are great, but I find the cost increasingly prohibitive. A number of newer Tamiya kits have plastic link and length tracks included in addition to the vinyl bands, and as others have pointed out, you can't really go wrong with Tamiya if you want an easy entry into the world of 1:35 armour modelling.
  3. I see that you found you had to shorten the inner track guide horn to fit the tracks to the sprockets. The Tiger II tracks actually had shorter inner guide horns in real life also, something Trumpeter missed unfortunately.
  4. Can't see any mention of these paint being thinned. Looks like it the same acrylic paints in Vallejo-style dropper bottles. Which one will have to admit are practical in use.
  5. I haven't been good at pressing the "like" button at all, but do know that your ups and downs have been on my must read list every day. Very informative, well written and fun to follow. Looking forward to the EVAs!
  6. I set out to finish one model per month (on average) in 2019, and I was successful in this by finishing my 12th model today. The original idea was to primarily finish shelf queens, but only half of this year's models were started before 2019. Of the rest, four kits were purchased this year. So, here's what I did this year. The first model, finished in late January, was started in December 2009. This is a Dragon kit with a resin conversion from LeadWarrior and a FlaK37 from Tristar. There's a picture of this vehicle in Panzerwrecks Vol 1. This is not an Sd.Kfz. 251/17, but rather the much easier to remember Selbsfahrlafette (Sd. Kfz. 11/1) für 2m FlaK 38 auf le.Zgkw. 3t mit Panzershutz. February saw finished the Tiger I Vorpanzer prototype. Kit is Dragon 6600 with a resin conversion from Tiger Model Designs, and Master Club resin tracks. In March another decade old project was pushed into the finished category. Plan was to have this in a workshop setting, and that may still happen and therefore weathering is very light. Whether this Sd.Kfz. 251/23 actually was a thing, is debatable, but I enjoyed building the Cyber-Hobby kit. I lost a drive sprocket along the way, so ended up scratching the detail necessary to show it with drive sprockets removed. In late May I decided not to throw this project in the trash which I was tempted to, and rather put it in with the rest of my 251-like models. The box says it is the command version of a Luftwaffe 251/17, but Panzer Tracts does not recognize this as a 251 at all. I'm not sure of its official designation, but it is obviously based on a 251 Ausf C. Early June saw the next project finished, which had been at least three years in the making. A regular Dragon Ferdinand kit with aftermarket decals for the last Ferdinand built. In July I left armour in favour of something entirely different, but finishing my Tamiya 1:12 Caterham Super Seven. The kit is the latest re-release of this kit, and I started it in 2018. I chose to finish it in red, rather than green, mostly because I had ample supplies of red on hand. Also in July, I purchased a kit that looked like it would ruin my ambition of 12 kits in a year, as this next project dragged on well into October. However, I enjoyed building this so much, and it is rare for me to actually start and finish a kit of this size in "one sitting", so to speak. This is Moebius's Discovery from 2001 A Space Odyssey in 1:144 scale, with a lighting kit from VoodooFX, and interior kits from Green Strawberry. In November I finished my Tamiya Spitfire Mk IX 1:32 in French markings. All markings expect stencils are painted using Maketar masks, and stencils are HGW wet transfers. All superb stuff, as is the kit. All they good things you hear about this kit, is true. Changing subject again, we move on to Tamiya's recent offering in 1:12 motorcycles with the new Honda Monkey 125. A fast and fun project which I finished in November. Going back to 1:48 scale aircraft after doing the Spit, felt fiddly and weird somehow, but this Eduard FW190-A3 had superb fit. Finished with Mr. Hobby Color on December 1. Weathering is very light, and that may be dealt with in the future. This next one I will admit I did mostly to have a chance to finish my ambition of 12 models this year, as it is a very simple project. One sprue only. But it is an aircraft of sorts, and that always means lots of sanding. Tamiya 1:48 with Mr Hobby Color. And finally, yet another change of subject. And once more, Tamiya. This is 1:24 scale, painted with Zero. Had to get a second set of decals via Spotmodel to reach the finish line, with this fine kit. Not without its challenges, and I guess I will have to agree with those who says it is a bit too expensive. Haven't quite decided what to do next year, but I won't repeat the "one model per month" thing. Arild
  7. Was going to suggest Horizon Models, but their Mercury stuff is 1/72. They have both the Atlas and the Redstone, and you can build virtually any config of either I think. I've built a Mercury-Redstone and a Gemini-Titan from New Ware in 1/144, and enjoyed it, despite them being resin kits, and the fact that I, like you, am not a huge fan of resin kits. Friendship7 is available as kit NW046 from here https://mek.kosmo.cz/newware/. Links to builds and reviews there, too.
  8. I do too, whenever I get it! It never showed today, and according to the tracking it is "Delivered". Well, it is not to me it isn't! Keeping fingers crossed that it will show up still, and that there's just a minor hickup.
  9. Superb stuff! I blame you for the fact that the mailman is due with one of these today.
  10. Those steps are easily fixed with a tweezer, and they will look the part when done. I would have done this before painting, to avoid getting scratch marks from the tweezer. Lots and lots of fine work going on here!
  11. ScaleMates are your ... eh... mates when it comes to answering this kind of question. Looks like there are some kits in smaller scales. No idea about availability though, but eBay have some? https://www.scalemates.com/search.php?fkSECTION[]=All&q=Saturn+V&fkSCALE[]="1:200"&fkSCALE[]="1:400"&fkSCALE[]="1:396"
  12. That's the spirit, I'd say! I'm like you on this. Some projects I go all out on the references, while with other stuff it is straight OOB. Either way, these big kits will look impressive on the shelf when done.
  13. I shan't tell you what is best for you, but a double action will be more useful in the long run. Whatever tool you buy, you will need to take the time and effort to practise using it. I don't really think the learning curve of a double action is that much steeper than with a single action. Either way you will need to get a feel for the proper thinning and air pressure and such, which dependant of the brand of paint you will be using, can be more tricky to figure out than the mechanics of the airbrush itself. What I will say is best for you, though, is to get in the habit of cleaning your airbrush thoroughly after use!
  14. No, a double action airbrush lets you chose both air- and paintflow at the same time. In a single action, you have constant airflow and adjust the amount of paint by pulling the needle back with whatever trigger the airbrush has got. In a double action you can both pull the needle back, and push the trigger down to regulate the amount of air through the airbrush. A double action is a wee bit more complicated to control, but it shouldn't be that much harder to learn to master.
  15. Beware that if you are beginning to look at period interior pictures, you are very likely to discover that the Trumpeter kit is missing other details beside wiring, and have stuff wrong. Just look at what people like David Parker (AFV Modeller) etc do with the Tiger II and Pz IV kits. I have no reason to believe the Panther to be any different, but who knows?
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