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Lightpainter

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  1. Hi Guys here is part 4 of my Lukgraph Hawker Nimrod MK I build. I had lots of self inflicted problems with the struts being a bit heavy handed, while cleaning the ridges away I broke several of the legs of the N struts away. The material is hard but brittle and gluing them back together is not so easy because the contact area is so small. I also glued the struts to the lower wing but I struggled with finding the right glue. Almost all came loose several times and at least one of the N struts came loose 3 times by just touching it. I finally used a gel type CA glue and that seems to have done the trick. But I made a mess of it by having to reglue each time so I am not happy with that… it shows in my eyes on the wing contact points but I will see what it gives when I put primer on it. I had to leave the work on the kit itself for a while because I got disappointed with the build. So I concentrated more on the details for now. I replaced the tailplane struts with brass struts for strength. The fork pitot is provided in PE but as with the rest I choose to replace it by a scratch build part made out of 8 parts since it looked too flat. My scratch build part The tail antenna is provided as a 3D part but I wanted it more detailed so I scratched it. The little ring on top for the antenna wire is made out of a brass ring of 0,6mm and a height of 0,3mm since I soldered it to a nickel silver wire of 0,33mm. The little pointed part on the rear is in fact aluminium tube but i filled it with solder at the back so I could file it in the correct form without gaps appearing. The antenna is small but also made from 9 parts. The kit part: My scratch build part The fin is slightly offset to port to counteract the engine torque and the gap between the fin and the tailplane was created too. Ofset fin I replaced the single PE triangle on the underside of the ailerons with some scratch build parts too. Still a bit crazy creating all those details and no one will see what effort was made to do those things once finished. So that is the small update, see you later. Keep safe!
  2. Thanks Max, I like to scratch those little details! πŸ˜€
  3. Thank you πŸ˜€ Yes the Fury and the Nimrod must be some of the most beautifull biplanes around! Thanks Chris they came out ok!
  4. Hi here is the third part of my Nimrod build. I did not get very far because I made a mess of things on the underside and got too much into small details where I made scratch build versions of PE and 3D parts. I used slow setting CA glue to glue the body together working in small parts at a time. But I missed a beat on the front just behind the radiator. I thought that I held the part long enough but it changed position and I had a step. And just at a place littered with raised rivets of course. So, I needed to make a new part. Then I noticed on the photographs that there was a fairing behind the radiator so I made that too. The chin radiator is also on a spot with raised rivets but fairing it in without damaging the rivets is not possible so they had to go… The bathtub radiator under the body is not so easy to fit without any help to see where it is just in the middle. Think I got it a fraction out of center.. The louvres in the front need to be thinned, so that was next. The bottom wings were next to get messed up.. I cleaned the left wing attachment just a bit too good, when it was glued I noticed that it was out of alignment but not before the glue dried… out came the saw and I sawed it off and put in a little plastic triangle that corrected the problem… resin kits always fun πŸ˜‰ So, what did I do with the details. I noticed that under the nose there are parts of the engine bearing that stick out, but at first I did not want to make them while I was still thinking of building the kit OOB… but since it is a prominent detail I could not let it be so I cut two holes under the nose based on my photographs and made the little bearing pieces, both in aluminum, 3mm long and build out of 14 pieces. In the mean time I also used the PE panels without too much problems, my new ZAP Z-Poxy works wonders. The Aldis gunsight provided in the kit is nice but I wanted it a bit slimmer based on my photographs so I made it in brass. In reality it sits in tubes sticking out on top of the body so I put in a couple of tubes on top and the sight fits right in. I can drop it in after painting so that is better. Of course when pushing in one of the tubes in a just too small hole a gap formed … repair and sand once again. The bead sight is provided as PE but I thought it was a bit flat, so I scratch build a new one to be closer to the photographs. Took me a couple of hours for something so small. Build out of 9 individual parts and to join the two long parts together I soldered two brass rings together, they are made from 0,7mm brass tubes and are 0,3mm long. I think using superglue would not have worked because they are so tiny. Kit PE part Reality My scratch build part, looks better in reality than enlarged so much in a photograph, it is only 5 mm long.. Dry fitted the sight parts, I will only glue them in at the end, they can simply be dropped in. I mocked up the tail hook pieces, I wanted to drill the two attachment points out to get a better fit for the brass pieces. Drilling with a small drill went ok but I needed to widen the hole and while using a bigger drill got to close to the border and then the part broke… you would have thought that I learned but no… Wanting to drill a hole in the hook part were the two long brass parts could go in it broke too. So in the end I scratch build the entire tail hook piece with the exception of the hook itself.. I soldered the two long parts together of course. The soldered pieced are not yet attached to the two attachments, I will only do that after painting! Not on the photographs but the lower wings were attached too. What takes a lot of time too is the cleaning of the 3D parts, if you do not do it you will see the ridges under the Silver paint, but if you clean them up you run the risk of sanding down the very nice raised details Lukasz made... so its up to the modeller to make a decision... So that's it for the moment :-) Keep safe!
  5. The photographs in the instructions in the Nimrod kit are mine too πŸ˜… I shared them with Lukasz for the development of this kit. You can see my name is mentioned on the page : Glijn Van Driessche
  6. No problem, It probably would have been better not to include those photographs since it gave a wrong impression πŸ˜…
  7. I only closed it after I took the photographs! It closed alright but being a resin kit I will need to clean up the seams more than in a regular kit. Some details on the underside were slightly damaged or les defined and need restoring.
  8. Here is the second part of my Lukgraph Hawker Nimrod MK I build. Cockpit interior is finished now and I am ready to close the body. I added gun feeds, the cockpit hatch closing bar, the bras fire extinghuiser and many more details. For the seatbelts I used the RB Productions Sutton A Harness. Hope you like it! These parts are just put together to test, at the moment I took the photographs no glue had been applied. It was a last check for the positioning of the details.
  9. I already did so and found several but it is not entirely clear if they are from WWII or WWI. That said I suppose they might look alike and I wil make one from scratch. It will look a lot better in a bras version! Thank you so much for pointing that out to me. Thank you πŸ™‚
  10. Hello Peter glad I could help and that you can still make the necessary changes. Do you have a photograph or drawing of the fire extinguisher used on the Fury and Nimrod? i used a red one but apparently it is a modern version it should be a brass-bodied Pyrene fire extinguisher filled with Carbon Tetrachloride. I found photographs online but cannot directly make out if the ones in WWII on British planes were comparable with the thirties versions?
  11. Hi Roger thank you for the comment, I can still change it if I have a photograph of the original fire extinguisher. Do you have a photograph that you could share? or can you tell me where I could find one?
  12. Yes it was and I can still correct the left side too. The part with the metal panels on that side. Who would have thought the interior colours were so different left and right...
  13. Hi, I have been working a bit more on the Lukgraph Hawker Nimrod MK.I. The sides of the cockpit were treated now. And I had to restart the right side... I noticed that I made a mistake in painting the right side of the cockpit in wood/red. My own walkaround photographs of the cockpit had misled me because the metal panel on the right side was taken off for servicing. The Nimrod has wood on the left side and on the floor with green metal strips. The part to the front of the green strips on the left side wil have to repainted too where the metal plate starts as I found out on a new photograph I found. The right side needs to be grey since there is a metal panel on that side as I noticed on a couple of photographs I found in my collection and online. Here are some test results of a test fit. Still a lot to do in the cockpit But I wanted to see how it would look.
  14. HI this is a fantastic build and completely out of my league. But I have a question, I am building the Lukgraph Hawker Nimrod MK.1 in 1/32 scale. Today I noticed that I made a mistake in painting the right side of the cockpit in wood/red as you did. My own walkaround photographs of the cockpit had misled me because the metal pannel on the right side was taken off. The Nimrod has wood on the left side and on the floor with green metal strips. The right side however was grey since there is a metal pannel on that side as I noticed from a couple of photographs I found online.. while the Nimrod is not the same as the Fury there are resemblances. In my research I came upon several cockpit shots of the fury that show the lower right side as metal too because there is a metal pannel to the side of the pilots seat, so not red and not the same structure as the left side but perhaps the restoration is different from the original? Here is an example :
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