Lightpainter

Wow Peter that looks amazing!

Thanks Max, I like to scratch those little details!

Thank you Yes the Fury and the Nimrod must be some of the most beautifull biplanes around! Thanks Chris they came out ok!

Hi here is the third part of my Nimrod build. I did not get very far because I made a mess of things on the underside and got too much into small details where I made scratch build versions of PE and 3D parts. I used slow setting CA glue to glue the body together working in small parts at a time. But I missed a beat on the front just behind the radiator. I thought that I held the part long enough but it changed position and I had a step. And just at a place littered with raised rivets of course. So, I needed to make a new part. Then I noticed on the photographs that there was a fairing behind the radiator so I made that too. The chin radiator is also on a spot with raised rivets but fairing it in without damaging the rivets is not possible so they had to go… The bathtub radiator under the body is not so easy to fit without any help to see where it is just in the middle. Think I got it a fraction out of center.. The louvres in the front need to be thinned, so that was next. The bottom wings were next to get messed up.. I cleaned the left wing attachment just a bit too good, when it was glued I noticed that it was out of alignment but not before the glue dried… out came the saw and I sawed it off and put in a little plastic triangle that corrected the problem… resin kits always fun So, what did I do with the details. I noticed that under the nose there are parts of the engine bearing that stick out, but at first I did not want to make them while I was still thinking of building the kit OOB… but since it is a prominent detail I could not let it be so I cut two holes under the nose based on my photographs and made the little bearing pieces, both in aluminum, 3mm long and build out of 14 pieces. In the mean time I also used the PE panels without too much problems, my new ZAP Z-Poxy works wonders. The Aldis gunsight provided in the kit is nice but I wanted it a bit slimmer based on my photographs so I made it in brass. In reality it sits in tubes sticking out on top of the body so I put in a couple of tubes on top and the sight fits right in. I can drop it in after painting so that is better. Of course when pushing in one of the tubes in a just too small hole a gap formed … repair and sand once again. The bead sight is provided as PE but I thought it was a bit flat, so I scratch build a new one to be closer to the photographs. Took me a couple of hours for something so small. Build out of 9 individual parts and to join the two long parts together I soldered two brass rings together, they are made from 0,7mm brass tubes and are 0,3mm long. I think using superglue would not have worked because they are so tiny. Kit PE part Reality My scratch build part, looks better in reality than enlarged so much in a photograph, it is only 5 mm long.. Dry fitted the sight parts, I will only glue them in at the end, they can simply be dropped in. I mocked up the tail hook pieces, I wanted to drill the two attachment points out to get a better fit for the brass pieces. Drilling with a small drill went ok but I needed to widen the hole and while using a bigger drill got to close to the border and then the part broke… you would have thought that I learned but no… Wanting to drill a hole in the hook part were the two long brass parts could go in it broke too. So in the end I scratch build the entire tail hook piece with the exception of the hook itself.. I soldered the two long parts together of course. The soldered pieced are not yet attached to the two attachments, I will only do that after painting! Not on the photographs but the lower wings were attached too. What takes a lot of time too is the cleaning of the 3D parts, if you do not do it you will see the ridges under the Silver paint, but if you clean them up you run the risk of sanding down the very nice raised details Lukasz made... so its up to the modeller to make a decision... So that's it for the moment :-) Keep safe!

Great build, I like it!

Thank you for your kind words

Euh... if you say so, we will see

The photographs in the instructions in the Nimrod kit are mine too I shared them with Lukasz for the development of this kit. You can see my name is mentioned on the page : Glijn Van Driessche

No problem, It probably would have been better not to include those photographs since it gave a wrong impression

I only closed it after I took the photographs! It closed alright but being a resin kit I will need to clean up the seams more than in a regular kit. Some details on the underside were slightly damaged or les defined and need restoring.

Here is the second part of my Lukgraph Hawker Nimrod MK I build. Cockpit interior is finished now and I am ready to close the body. I added gun feeds, the cockpit hatch closing bar, the bras fire extinghuiser and many more details. For the seatbelts I used the RB Productions Sutton A Harness. Hope you like it! These parts are just put together to test, at the moment I took the photographs no glue had been applied. It was a last check for the positioning of the details.

Looks really nice!

I already did so and found several but it is not entirely clear if they are from WWII or WWI. That said I suppose they might look alike and I wil make one from scratch. It will look a lot better in a bras version! Thank you so much for pointing that out to me. Thank you

Hello Peter glad I could help and that you can still make the necessary changes. Do you have a photograph or drawing of the fire extinguisher used on the Fury and Nimrod? i used a red one but apparently it is a modern version it should be a brass-bodied Pyrene fire extinguisher filled with Carbon Tetrachloride. I found photographs online but cannot directly make out if the ones in WWII on British planes were comparable with the thirties versions?

Hi Trevor thanks and be welcome

Hi Roger thank you for the comment, I can still change it if I have a photograph of the original fire extinguisher. Do you have a photograph that you could share? or can you tell me where I could find one?

Yes it was and I can still correct the left side too. The part with the metal panels on that side. Who would have thought the interior colours were so different left and right...

Hi, I have been working a bit more on the Lukgraph Hawker Nimrod MK.I. The sides of the cockpit were treated now. And I had to restart the right side... I noticed that I made a mistake in painting the right side of the cockpit in wood/red. My own walkaround photographs of the cockpit had misled me because the metal panel on the right side was taken off for servicing. The Nimrod has wood on the left side and on the floor with green metal strips. The part to the front of the green strips on the left side wil have to repainted too where the metal plate starts as I found out on a new photograph I found. The right side needs to be grey since there is a metal panel on that side as I noticed on a couple of photographs I found in my collection and online. Here are some test results of a test fit. Still a lot to do in the cockpit But I wanted to see how it would look.

HI this is a fantastic build and completely out of my league. But I have a question, I am building the Lukgraph Hawker Nimrod MK.1 in 1/32 scale. Today I noticed that I made a mistake in painting the right side of the cockpit in wood/red as you did. My own walkaround photographs of the cockpit had misled me because the metal pannel on the right side was taken off. The Nimrod has wood on the left side and on the floor with green metal strips. The right side however was grey since there is a metal pannel on that side as I noticed from a couple of photographs I found online.. while the Nimrod is not the same as the Fury there are resemblances. In my research I came upon several cockpit shots of the fury that show the lower right side as metal too because there is a metal pannel to the side of the pilots seat, so not red and not the same structure as the left side but perhaps the restoration is different from the original? Here is an example :

Hi Chris, It is very nice! But as with every resin kit it needs a bit more work than an equivalent plastic kit. But that means its double the fun There actually will not be a lot to see in the cockpit when its closed but I could not help myself

Indeed, I saw it the moment I posted. Should be ok now!

Hi, I started working on the Lukgraph Hawker Nimrod MK I and this is actually my first 1/32 kit in decades and then a resin biplane as well. I actually started building 1/48 aircraft and now 1/32 because 1/72 was getting to small for my eyes… and then I found myself making tiny little bolts out of 0,5 mm alu tube with a length of the bolt of 0,3mm for the gun attachment.… and I lost a lot since I could not see them and lost them. For those interested, there are some shots of what I did in the cockpit till now, as I originally did not plan to do a WIP I did not document each phase. Still I made a couple of shots now and then to show a friend and he asked if I would consider showing them here so here they are. There is some PE in the kit but I decided I wanted a busier office so a lot of scratch building was necessary. Actually, the only PE I used here is the instrument panel but I made the bezels out of Brass tube because photographs show them with bezels and the PE is a bit flat. Since I provided photographs to aid in the development of the kit I have good documentation to refer to. So as usual I started with the cockpit and had to replace 3 parts s of the 3D printed cage that were not fully printed. Oh well, almost everything was either changed a bit or scratch build with different success. Still a lot to do, ammo chutes perhaps and some piece of the fuel tank behind the instrument panel... Just a note, the 3D printed parts show the ridges only when you put primer on them. That stuff is so hard that it is difficult to correct by sanding. The panel behind the pilot seat showed the ridges very clearly. Sanding sticks did not work as well as I hoped. When I put primer on it there were still ridges visible after an extended sanding session. In the end I used my Proxxon tool with a small grinder tool and I finally got a nice smooth surface after passing a last time with a sanding stick. You can still see the 3D effect in the surface of the seat. I did thin the edges of the seat with the grinder in the Proxxon tool. In general the 3D parts are a little rougher than what we are used to with resin but they offer the possibility to ad details in a kit we otherwise might not get. If you look at the 3D printed cage you can see ridges too but it will sit very low in the fuselage zo I doubt it will be visible. The instruments on the outside of the cage are les detailed since you cannot see them because they press against the sides. I will add the Sutton A harness of RB productions later. Not perfect but I hope you like it… in reality it looks better than on the photographs. Parts for the gun mountings

Really well done! I have many WNW kits but have not started on one yet. Even have two of this AEG G.IV in the late version. How long did it take you to build it?

I build the MikroMir AMP Piaggio-Pegna PC.7 in 1/48 scale so I can understand your problems. There were differences between the parts, the plan and the box art so probably they are al made by different people who never talk to each other It always can be done... sometimes

Moa did you know they are building a replica FF.49C passenger version in Denmark?