Baran İşmen

Hey Dave, Thanks for your suggestions. I just thought using this section would be wiser. Anyhow, can some mod move this topic to there or shall I create a new one?

Hey Chris, thanks for the suggestion. Yeah I'm aware of this, it's a last resort for me though, because I have to find a window decal for this as well.

Hello all. I've got an old kit of Revell's A310, whose only lacking part is the clear canopy. As this kit is out of prouduction, Revell had to deny my demand of this part from their side. And, as I still couldn't reach the 100 post limit, I simply can not start a new thread to ask for a spare part from someone who might have. Anyhow; now I'm looking for some alternatives for finishing this rare kit. Like, can i somehow adapt any other Airbus kit's clear part to A-310, or shall I fill the whole area and use a decal (which I don't have either). Any suggestions are welcomed. Cheers, Baran

Such a classic, great build mate!

One of my favourite cars, great looking model mate.

Nice model with a base. May I ask for the drawing details such as dimensions etc. for the base?

Lovely finish, great job!

You need such thin lines for pre-shading purposes? By freehand, it's quite hard to obtain such a thin line with Vallejo's actually (with other paints as well tbh), also there will be even minimal movement due to hand shake and stuff. My formula is (fpr pre-shading at least) thinning the black primer of Vallejo 1:1 with its cleaner, even a little more thinner actually and get a watery paint. No worry, because as you'll have already a painted surface, adhesion will be ok, drop the pressure to 10psi, get as close to the model as possible, limit the trigger distance by screwing the back so that you won't spray much by mistake -there will be a limited distance for trigger pull-, and apply in 2 coats as it'll be thin and transparent.

Varnish(make and title) thinner ratio of thinners as % added psi (when air flowing) distance temperature humidity Future None %100 Future Around 15, 20 Max. 10-15cm 24 Celcius n/a Humbrol Clear None %100 H.Clear Around 15, 20 Max. 10-15cm 24 Celcius n/a Vallejo Gloss Varnish Water or %60 Varnish, %40 Thinner Around 15, 20 Max. 15-20cm 24 Celcius n/a own thinner Will write the results of Mr.Color's Clear as well when i try it.

Quick question. I used to have a spray booth mounted into my room window, but as i am living on 6th floor and that side gets the headwind 7/24, fumes cant be extracted properly. So i came up with this funny idea. What if I buy a booth, and connect the output hose into a closed box or something which will trap the particles and stuff. Would it work?

Or buy the following and do your own for much cheaper. Desired grits of sandpaper Meat skewers or kebab sticks, wider ones Two-sided tape Get a skewer, cut the sandpaper from behind by referencing the skewer, then stick the skewer to tapes one side, stick the cut sandpaper to tape's other side, cut the remaining itsy bits Voila!

Regular Ipa and water does the job well, mate. Maybe due to brush marks no matter how delicate you apply it?

You're welcome. I also discovered that, if you have small paint imperfections, Butyl can fix that with the help of a 5/0 brush. Just dab the brush into butyl, wipe the excess, and apply over the mistakes. I've just tried on a surface with Future coated, and it leaves some stain over Future if heavily or wet applied, so be careful. Other types of varnishes may not affect, don't know. IPA is just ,included in my cleaner mixture, just for making sure there's nothing left in the airbrush when cleaning. Cheers, Baran

All right test results are here. Warning, this pure Butyl Glycol is strong for both smell and thinning / cleaning capabilities, also if it dries on your skin, it gives a dry feeling in that area. Rinse with water immediately otherwise it gives you a weird feeling. I've put three empty paint cups in front of me, and dropped 5 drops of Model Air Bronze Green to each of them. Also I've prepared a simple mixture beforehand; it's like %33 Butyl and %67 Tap Water (as i didn't have dist. water in handy). * In the first one, I've dropped 3 drops of Butyl, nothing else. I've observed that after 15-20 seconds, it dissolves the paint into its pigments and doesn't adhere the paint throughly. So strong for the paint to use it alone, rather for cleaning i guess. * In the second one, I've dropped 3 drops of original Airbrush Cleaner, it acted as it should be and thinned the paint supposedly, thins the paint homogenously. Note that, A.Cleaner and A.Thinner -even Flow Improver- works the same way, i think the only difference of them is their Butyl ratio. They all even smell the same. * In the third one, I've dropped 3 drops of the mixture I've prepared (33 Butyl/66 Water), and it acted just like the original stuff, same consistency, same reactions, same homogenousity. Then I've sprayed the Vallejo's black primer and M.Air Bronze Green from airbrush separately. 20 PSI, roughly 2 Paint / 1 Thinner mixture. Flows good, adheres good, dries good. Quite happy with the results. I've also added some of Butyl into my home-made airbrush cleaner mixture as well (which is %30 IPA,%65 Water, %5 Acetone and some drops of Glycerine) for a complete cleanup. Maybe some drops of Mono Ethylene Glycol can be added to this mixture as well for retarding agent, as some say that it's the main agent used in retarders/flow aids, or maybe Glycerol would work as well but don't know, need more experiments. Summary : Home-made AV Vallejo Thinner -> %33 Butyl Glycol / %66 Distilled or Tap Water (optionally few drops of Glycerine or Ethylene Glycol, not tested yet) Home-made AV Vallejo Cleaner -> %30 IPA / % 60 Water / %5 Acetone / %5 Butyl Glycol / 10-20 Drops of Glycerine (IPA/Acetone & Butyl ratios can be altered, this one seems more Tamiya/Gunze focused and based on various sources in the Internet, increasing the Butyl and decreasing the IPA/Acetone ratio(s) would make it more AV friendly, but this current formula works quite fine for Vallejo's as well. Need some free time to test all of these one by one) Regards, Baran

Now I wonder what to use for making a home brew flow aid/retarder. Some sources say that such agents contains Mono Ethylene Glycol, which is oily and used with paints and stuff to provide application easiness. I also doubt that AV thinners/cleaners/flow aid's contain a similar stuff inside in different rations as they are oily as well. Maybe regular Glycerol would work as well, dunno.

Just got my bottle of 1 Liter Butyl Glycol. Oh god, it has the same odour of Airbrush Cleaner, Airbrush Thinner, Flow Improver and also Micro Sol. 😂😂😂 Only thing is that it's not that oily, instead when it dries in your skin, it feels kinda dry on that area and whitens. I think one needs to add something to make it greasy/oily. Will share my experiences when I try with colors.

Hey there. I'd like to ask you guys; what is the difference between glossy and matt colors ? I mean, question is not this simple ofc, what i'm trying to say is; let's say i'm making a model and after a glossy finish. Shall I use a glossy paint or use matt paint after gloss varnish. I mean, if I use a Matt Fire Red and Gloss varnish or Glossy Fire Red directly, what would be the difference ? Has anyone done such a test before ? If not, what's the purpose of existence of the glossy colors ? I'm asking this especially for model car painting, as you know glossy colors are tend to have orange peel effect much more compared to matt colors, so what if i spray the matt color and gloss varnish it and wax/polish it, so that any mistake due to paint will be eliminated. Besides, if i dilute/thin the matt colors with gloss varnishes, do i achieve a glossy finish as well ? Cheers, Baran

No doubt that Model Air's pigments are a little thicker and more dense compared to Model Air. Even if you try to thin them with their thinner to get the same consistency with Model Airs, you simply can't get the same even similar result. I think it depends on the production phase whatsoever. However, if you manage to airbrush the Model Color's somehow, the coverage will be same as Air's. Kinda magical stuff. I like the color range and diversity of MC though, it has some satin and glossy finishes as well, which MA lacks of.

Hello there. After a long time, I've managed to spray the Future without any problems and have a smooth surface even after 3rd coat. It shines, yes, but there are some dust particles and it seems they stuck there while I was spraying the coats. My question is, how should i get rid of these without ruining the future coat so much? Wet sanding seems to activate the Future lies beneath. However coating that area again seems to fix the problem. Also should I wax with Tamiya stuff (or something else you may suggest) after coating my model with Future and letting it dry like several hours maybe days ? Some say that it dulls the final appearance, but some are using as well. Cheers, Baran

It certainly doesn't like IPA at all, that's why I'm using this mixture just for cleaning instead of thinning. I prepared a Liter of bottle with a sharp tip, after painting is done, I just fill the airbrush cap half, back-spray by holding the tip of airbrush, then spray the whole mixture thru, then with a towel i clean inside the cup, spray again a little more mixture, then for final stage i spray 3-4 drops of vallejo's airbrush cleaner, otherwise when this mixture dries up in the airbrush even after cleaning, the needle becomes sticky for a reason i don't know. Airbrush cleaner prevents that probably due to it's oily chemistry.

If you're using acrylics, IPA/Water/Glycerol mixture is the way to go, ratio is %33/%66/%1 respectively. For enamels, just use cellulose thinner.

Will soon get a try to Perfect Plastic Putty, which is highly popular everywhere on the Internet Tried Vallejo's plastic putty and Tamiya's grey filler so far; Vallejo is not that good, Tamiya is meh.

Once I used it for the AH-64 I've made. It was the exact Olive Drab tone I was looking for. Kinda black-ish, far from being Green.

* Don't exceed the 20-25 Psi, * Thin the paint in a 1:2 (thinner:paint) or 1:1 ratio with their own thinner (don't think about the coverage, you can make a second pass and it'll throughly cover all) * Do NOT use IPA for thinning, it's only for cleaning. As it makes the paint lumpy (which is the main reason not to be used for thinning), you have to clean the particles out of the airbrush cup by a towel or something, otherwise the remaining lumpy paint parts will clog the nozzle. * You can add just 1 or 2 drops of Glycerol to their own thinner which will delay the drying time both over model and in the airbrush cup. So be careful with that. * As CasualModel98 suggested, you can make your own thinner with Butyl Glycol and Water mix. I'll get a liter bottle and will share the results as well, but it's the real deal. Happy modeling

Without proper priming underneath, all acrylics tend to peel off from the naked plastic. As a Model Air user the solution I've found and working good so far is; stick the masking tape to inside of your hand or forehead, after that apply the tape over the model. This way, you'll get the strong tackiness of the tape, yet it'll have enough power to hold on to the model and will not remove the paint.