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Pak75

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About Pak75

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  1. Hi Some progress, new foredeck and upper deck fitted to cut-down Exeter hull. All Exeter fair leads and hawse holes have been filed off. Foredeck is shorter than Exeter and the sleeker lines of modified Leanders are starting to emerge. Decks are 0.5mm sheet then reinforced. Is it just me but 1mm sheet is difficult to work with? Outline of decks from 1/350 plans was transferred to sheet and then cut out. However outline then had to be trimmed to accomodate rebate at top of kit hull to fit deck. Broader stern and bow of Sydney cf Exeter can now be seen. . I had intended to paint the hull before fitting wood deck but Australian stores of some Colour Coats are exhausted and supply galleon not due until next February. Have to look at Tamiya or Testors... Next to build up hull at stern and bow. Stern has no knuckle so will use Arnold A’s suggested method. Bow will be built up with strip and then an outer skin applied. Easier said than done... Cheers
  2. Hi there Try this https://pdf4pro.com/view/kriegsmarine-u-boat-colours-amp-markings-amp-rokket-biz-5b7339.html Excellent table of colours and paint makes a few pages in, plus other details.
  3. Thanks ArnoldA yr thoughts. I have made up new deck outline this afternoon as a starting point, taking deck back to middle of B turret. I can either follow your suggested method or use layers horizontal strips to build up hull to required thickness, before sanding smooth. Will think on it overnight. Easier said than done...! Cheers
  4. Back in big smoke and broadband internet. Another photo shows distinct knuckle - on sunlit starboard side the knuckle is hardly visible but it can clearly be seen in shadow on port side of bow. Are my eyes playing tricks or is that a Sub-Lt DiCaprio on the roof of the bridge rehearsing for his new career in films when he leaves the Service? There are actually two men on the anchor which makes it more interesting! A naval version of Truth or Dare?
  5. Found a better internet connection! Yes I see knuckle now. Far more prominent knuckle as suggested, thanks, than I realised. If I don’t have to try and remodel whole bow that would be much better!
  6. Thanks Arnold and Terry. If I understand you correctly, the more flared bow of Sydney at deck level is a product of the more pronounced knuckle? This means bow profile cross section below knuckle is not so different to Exeter? Morskie has profiles which I can check and I have collected many photos Sydney but I am away from PC for next two days.
  7. Still not in familiar waters.... Have compared Exeter modified hull to 1/350 plans and mod Leander class Sydney has a much more rounded bow and stern. Variation is at least 2.5mm each side. Did Exeter really have such a tapered bow or is this a fault with Trumpeter kit? Not sure what what to do, can leave or I guess build out bow and stern with plastic strip. Exeter’s fo’csle is very crowded and has three anchors, very different to that of Sydney so am looking at building this from scratch anyway. Sydney length of fo’csle and distance bow/stern to barbette A/Y turrets are different to Exeter so a new deck will have to be fitted rather than kit, unless I Dremel all fittings off.
  8. Thanks Jamie, Terry and Arnold for yr input. This is my first effort at a model for which no kit exists with extensive scratch building going to be required, so I am in uncharted waters. General consensus is to cut, so after a double issue of rum I took up my trusty hacksaw, measured up and put metal to plastic. After a few minutes, voila! Trumpeter kit $100 ruined! I tried to centre the cut on where the bilge keel was horizontal to minimise rectification work. Two halves were quickly glued with aid of splints and the result not to bad, nothing that a bit of cosmetic surgery and putty can't fix up. Small gap 0.5mm one side only. Looking again at plans, especially in fo'csle area, I have noticed something else about Trumpeter kit. Hull profile at bow and stern is extremely tapered (as can be seen in photos) , more appropriate to a dart... Don't know if this is historically accurate, but HMAS Sydney/HMS Phaeton had a more rounded bow and stern on plans. Will have to look into this. Cheers
  9. Jeff Phew - you had me going there for a while! Exeter is 575 ft 1 in OA and my refs for Sydney are Tech reports Dept Defence (link in first post) which give 562 ft +3 and 7/8in OA. This is a difference of 13 ft +2 and 7/8 in which comes out at just over 11mm in 1/350. Allowing 1mm for saw cuts, this equates to the removal of a 9mm long section of hull. Easier to remove than add! Will look for Olsen at local library. Cheers
  10. HI Not sure about my painting skills and painting individual 1/350 planks.... Read Mr Foeth's Hood blog and website with awe. LMS has no v-groove in stock, US shipment delayed COVID-19, or so i'm told. Quite like look of wooden deck but i will have to make sure appropriate colour scheme is represented.. I am working with Morskie's HMAS Sydney and some plans from National Archives.
  11. HI Jamie I am rapidly coming to conclusion that i cannot use much of kit deck so will replace deck/s and superstructure in their entirety. This will allow me to use a wood veneer deck - caveats on this site noted! Have to scratchbuild two funnels anyway... Cheers
  12. I have been intrigued for many years by the story of HMAS Sydney II whose fate occupied a prominent place in Australian naval thinking for nearly 70 years. Encountering the German raider Kormoran, in the ensuing engagement HMAS Sydney was lost with all hands. Over the years various theories have been suggested as to how the pride of the Australian navy was lost, including suggestions that a Japanese submarine was involved, HMS Sydney was carrying gold bullion and that the Germans deliberately sought out HMS Sydney after breaking Allied naval codes. The discovery of its wreck (plus that of the Kormoran) in 2008 finally ended this considerable speculation. Such was the national interest that a parliamentary inquiry was held in 2009 to deliver an official verdict on the fate of vessel and the reasons behind it. In short, after first being torpedoed by the Kormoran, during the battle HMAS Sydney was hit by more than 90 rounds of 5.9” while the Sydney’s bridge and aircraft were raked by 20mm and 37mm cannon fire. HMAS Sydney was set on fire (as was the Kormoran) and later sank; the Kormoran was scuttled when the fire aboard could not be brought under control. Detailed technical reports of damage and the likely sequence of events can be found on government website: https://www.defence.gov.au/sydneyii/FinalReport There is a lot of detail there on many WWII naval procedures for those interested. The key question is why did the captain of HMAS Sydney bring his ship onto a parallel course only about 1000m from the Kormoran? The government report attempts to answer this question: https://www.defence.gov.au/sydneyii/FinalReport/Report/Chapter 19.pdf There are no model kits of HMAS Sydney. I looked first at modifying an Airfix HMS Ajax 1/600 which occasionally pop up on E-Bay with Shapeways parts but this would add considerable expense. Then after seeing a finished Airfix model that didn’t have much detail, I decided that 1/600 was too small a scale for me. In 1/350 there were more options, including a resin kit of HMS Ajax from Iron Shipwrights - pricey. Trumpeter offers HMS Cornwall and HMS Exeter and after studying many photos and plans, I noticed some general similarities between the cruisers built at this time including HACS, HA gun decks, DCT, etc, so when an opportunity came up to buy HMS Exeter kit, I took it. My plan is to use as much of Exeter kit as possible and add detailed parts from Micro-Master. Firstly, HMS Exeter is slightly longer 3.93m (LOA) than HMAS Sydney, equating to about 9mm at 1/350. This could be cut out of the one-piece Exeter hull amidships and the hull halves then rejoined… Or am I being too pedantic? To cut or not to cut?
  13. Hi So it seems my mind was just a little too hazy ... it was apparently rare for Me-109E to have cine film gun cameras, these were more prevalent in with the FW-190. As suggested by Graham, it is likely that the E-3 had E-1 wings when the armament was upgraded from MG to 20mm cannon. The cannon was installed slightly outboard of the original MG position, leaving an open port which was sometimes plugged or covered or just left. From 5534 Signal ME 109E walkaround: https://i.postimg.cc/ydSf4vy9/ME-109E.jpg https://postimg.cc/jwt6y69d Cheers
  14. Iain Both replies maybe correct, see discussion here https://ww2aircraft.net/forum/threads/bf-109-gun-camera.28120/ Will look look at my refs tomorrow
  15. Hi I don’t have my references with me but I recall from deep recesses of my mind that ME 109 E had wing mounted gun cameras next to cannons, hence second port in each wing.
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