iv-tecman

Quick build to celebrate 60 years of Ferrari 1947 - 2007. Spray painted Zero Grigio Ingrid (Met Silver) with 2K zero clear coat, added some seat belts but other then this, totally box stock. I did replace the Ferrari logos with Model Factory Hiro emblems, the engine in this kit is excellent, just a shame you can't see any of it when the body is put in place. Overall, this is an excellent kit from Tamiya and its well suited to anyone with any level of model building skill. Highly recommended, just be careful with the window frame, its a little fragile. I broke mine, and had to repair it. More pictures on my website – http://michael616.fotopic.net/c1505135.html

Ooh that is nice. Love the CF effect on the base, nothing betters 'real' CF. I use that sticky stuff you get on ebay, its ok... the bike is nothing short of stunning, very clean. Nice work, very nice work. The CLK is an interesting kit, my webpage - link in sig has a nice (blow ones own trumpet lol) build up of that very same kit, might give you some ideas, I've also got a lot of ref: pictures of the real car, if you need them, let me know... Again, nice job, it looks fantastic....

Yep, that'll look good. Make the curb out of paper mashie, shape, and then paint. Also, get some pencil and rub into paper, to build up a nice amount of lead, rub into your finger, and rub along the sides of the painted curb, to give impressions of tire marks etc... You can also simulate tyre marbles using black embossing powder, looks nice when completed... Also, use 1000 grit paper its a bit more inscale to 1/20.. Oh and BTW that is a very nice looking Mclaren, one of the best I've seen, considering your modelling background, top job, very nice indeed, well researched and well executed.

Sorry everyone, my picture host have thrown their toys out the pram, and told me to reduce the bandwidth I’m using. However, they never thought to warn me first, instead they just forcefully removed my entire collection from public view. I’m in the process of sorting this, in other words, paying the greedy buggers more money, and I’ll hope to have this sorted ASAP. Really sorry, the model proved quite popular, and I exceeded the 1GB limit.. oops..!! Please do try again later... Hopefully it won't be long..

Thanks.... Indeed Pironi did win the 1982 San Marino GP under some controversy. He was also second in the WDC that year… Still, I wanted to build the race winner, and as I said everyone goes for no 27, Gilles machine, so thought I’d go for no 28 instead… Glad someone mentioned it, and I intend to build a whole bunch of period F1 from the 60’s – late 80’s, just need to find the time… lol Thank you.... Pleased to be onboard with you all... Yeah, but someone had to build this version.. I have a MFH 126CK Monaco version in the stash somewhere, so not sure if I'll pick up the Fujimi version yet. I was pleased with the aluminium tub, it turned out just nicely in the end.... I also mentioned about the rear wheels as I was building it up.... I agree, MFH should have kitted new wheels with new tyres, but they only provided new wheels, and no tyres, meaning I had to use the kit tyres, and therefore the rims where not corrected, only cast in metal etc.. shame. Again, everyone thanks for all the wonderful comments, pleased you all liked it. Set myself up now, you'll all now expect nothing but awesome work from me...!! lol well, I'll see what I can muster up for you all....

Fujimi 1/20 base kit, amalgamated with Model Factory Hiro San Marino transkit to make a fairly nice rendition of the 1982 San Marino GP raced by no 28 D Pironi, everyone goes for Gilles Villeneuve, so thought I’d be different. Kit was a bit of a challenge, I opted for a naked look, without boots and no body, mounted on stands, think that idea was forced on me after I realised I’d laid on too much paint and to click the body in place means I might chip some paint off. Don’t want to risk it, anyhow I like the idea of being able to see all the insides etc. I added tubing, and wiring wherever I could, made my own roll cage out of 1.2mm steel tubing, and painted the excellent resin cast body with Zero 80’s period Ferrari Red. Overall, despite the mistakes I made, it turned out better then expected for my first resin transkit. The extensive use of white metal was a little tricky, but I managed to get it all to fit eventually. Not a kit I’d recommend to beginners, too complex, but for those who’ve built a few F1 models, or bikes or plastic kits etc, you’ll be fine. Ok, enough of my ramblings, pictures, please enjoy comments welcome. And WIP pictures here – http://wip.picturebook.org.uk/c1472924.html And some more completed pictures if you’ve not seen enough on my website lol http://michael616.fotopic.net/c1500547.html Thanks for looking.

Thank you all for the wonderful comments, I hope you can now also enjoy my next WIP for you all in the World Motorsport GB.. http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=13941 Honda Pons West RC211V, again thanks for the comments, see you all in the GB section now.. lol If anyone wants the pictures, in zip form, just email me, I'd be more then happy to email them to you..

My next model for you all after the Fujumi 126C2 with MFH transkit was meant to be a Revell 1/25 C6R with SMS builders transkit and bad boy livery. Shame my order got a bit messed up, so I don’t have the kit. Its now on backorder, so to till in the time, something else needed…. So, rummaged around in the old stash, and pulled out a Repsol Honda RC211V. Naturally, I didn’t want to build the box version, so I’m going to upgrade a tad. So lets see… Tamiya RC211V 2002 Base Kit S27 Honda Pons West Livery Decals S27 P/E upgrade Additional Lion Roar P/E Top Studio GP Sensor Top Studio Metal Turned Caliper’s Top Studio Electronics Tamiya Front Fork upgrade And I’m still toying with the idea of getting this – http://www.mediamixhobby.com.sg/catalog/pr...roducts_id=5767 http://www.topstudiohobby.com/ go to tips chain making. I reckon I could do it, ooh confidence eh? If you use firefox, the images might not work, so use IE instead to view the tips on this website. Hmm, looks to be quite a challenge but I sometimes like a challenge. This is going to be the Honda Pons West RC211V, introduced late into the 2002 motogp season, number 4 Alex Barros, he rode a NSR 500 for most part of 2002 but got to ride a RC211V for the last four races of the season. Took a pole and 2 wins on the machine, fairly impressive. I’ll be using Zero West Sparkling Black base coat over zero micro primer and will be stripping off all the kit chrome, and using various shades of Alclad II paints…. Right, enough commentary, lets see how this one turns out.. Pics of all the bits and bobs….

Stunning, I decanted some Halfords plastic primer once, and it went all grainy and looked like, well bird s*t. So, always been a bit hmmm with decanting Halfords paints. I do use their blacks, and matt blacks.. Excellent for quick and dirty work, such as base coat for Alclad etc.. Again, nice work, and you are right to get a display case, bikes are very fragile when completed, any model is, but bikes are really fragile as they stand up... So easy to break, you know the Tamiya tank display cases hold three 1/12 bike kits..

Ah you posted this in here too... I've already said on your compressor thread you need some plumbers tape, seems like I've now repeated myself.. lol

You need to apply some plumbers tape to the screw ends of where you attach hoses, that'll stop the leaking, screwing the hoses on tight isn't enough, B & Q sell plumbers tape, its about a quid perhaps quid fifty.. As for the regulator, hmm post models and lets see if we can work out what you've done wrong.. It could be you've got the hoses the wrong way around.... One end of the regulator is compressor, the other is airbrush, you need to get them the right way around... It should have a water trap under the bottom of the black screw top, most regulators are like this, post a pic if you can...

This one is 99% completed. The rear wing was a bit tricky to assemble, ended up using a 2 part araldite 90sec clear super glue heated with a hair dryer to cure it rapidly otherwise it just fell apart due to weight. Just need to add some rivets and decal, but other then this, its now completed. The roll cage was rebuilt using a small percentage of the kit part, and 1.2mm stainless steel tubing, I added brake lines using a fine silver wire, and buffed up the body with three stage tamiya compound, swirl mark remover then waxed with final detail treatment wax. The winidscreen was painted from the inside clear blue to tint, and final details added. The inside of the body was carefully sprayed black using a low PSI and my airbrush. Overall, a challenging transkit, but makes a worthy 126C2 to add to the Ferrari Collection. Recommended if you can handle the extensive use of white metal, the requirments to rebuild a lot of stuff using what you have, and you don’t mind a lot of drilling, testing of fitment and just slowly taking time to make sure it all fits. Resin body is perfect, and mine does fit, I’ve just not clicked it into place. I hope the WIP has been worthwhile to anyone looking to build this transkit. That’s all, watch for the completed thread coming soon. Commentary over.

Cool, then you're all set mate.. The Treatment Wax is the nuts mate.. Its really good, you only need a small pea sized blob each time, and it goes a long way. It looks greasy and wet afterwards, but thats the idea. The 2000 grit will be great for sanding your primer. Make it nice and smooth for that silver ground coat.. What compressor have you got? I have a B & Q no name hardware compressor, cost me £90, + £15 for a regulator and it does 90 Psi and 2.5cfm or something like that.. Unless you want to use trigger spray guns, then most airbrushes work with most of the cheaper low end compressors, the only airbrush I know that needs a 1.8 or higher CFM is the G6 from IWATA, and that is a smaller trigger brush, with a larger fan head and needle... fter that, you move into spray guns, and one of those puppies will pretty much spray your entire 1/24 F1 model in one pass each side... Don't ask, before I moved into IT, I used to work in a car body repair shop, spraying car panels... Figures..!! lol

The biggest problem is getting the tint into the hard to reach areas, so its better to lay down the colour in light mists and lower PSI and just slowly build up the colour by slowly moving the airbrush over the body, the wider the spray the better. The more it can cover in one pass I find with candy colours work better.. This is a tint over a blue met ground coat. I used a larger needle and was careful to not over go any area twice, I applied about four light coats, the more you apply the dark the tint or candy becomes. It can have a small gloss but your clear is where you'll get your mirror shine.. If you get a dust, don't sand a candy or tint, it does ruin the effect. It is tricky, you can't sand the final ground coat, and you can't sand any of the tint... You can however sand the primer, and the clear. So make sure your primer is super smooth, and spray the ground and tint at lower PSI, and then mist about 23 - 3 coats of clea, depending on clear coat of choice and then see how it looks... The skyline I've shown as an example was cleared with 2K clear, two mists and then a heavy, and it had orange peel. I sanded the clear, then hit it with a super wet coat of 2K clear, looked like a mirror. I only polished with a rubbing compound, and then waxed... Job done, spray water around your spray booth, and use a tack cloth between layers of primer, ground, tint and then clear..

This car ran with a really nice colour, I agree. Like a candy apple red, not too sure if you've done candy or tints before, but make sure when you lay the tint or candy over the silver ground coat you get equal level coverage, or you end up with darker areas, and it looks a bit patchy... Should look pretty nice when done.. Good luck