David M

Like Anthony I am lost for words except...brilliant!

krow113, Thanks for your heads up. I tried searching for a bender like yours but have had no luck. Robbe do not seem to have one...any ideas for a source? David M Sydney, Straya PS: Nice hillclimber BTW!

I made it to the Library and found the journals (Automobile Engineer) but sadly, nothing on the DH50. I checked all the available journals that might have been relevant (1923 to 1933)...however, I suspect that my memory was faulty (it happens!) and was of the article about the DH61 which it covered in some detail. Lots of other useful articles: DH60 (Cirrus), DH60M, DH66, two on the Jupiter engine, power installation in the DH54, DH58 and Supermarine Sea Lion, Bristol Cherub etc as well a s host of stuff on cars that also interest me. John, Anthony, let me know if you would like copies. I will keep searching. And, John, please keep up your great work; I too appreciate your efforts. David

Hi John, It is indeed I, again. Don't worry about the DH83 drawings, they will keep and health comes first. As it happens I have been distracted this year by my wife's illness and have not been giving modelling much thought. Interesting information on the fuselage and good to know the WNW 9 is a sensible starting point. Now if WNW would only do a 504 I could stop dreaming of doing a 547 to go with the 50... David

Hi Anthony, It is indeed I. Thinking about the DH50 rang a small bell in my head and I think my file was leant to one of my mates who actually made one, albeit in 1:48. I will buzz him to see if he still has it... I am scheduled to raid the library next week, as soon as the NYE cracker watching and bubbly have worn off. Interesting thought to use the WNW lower fuse widened to suit; I figured it was a relatively straight forward scratchbuild but on seeing the kit bits I think you may be right. It will depend on how the interior is finished, unlined military style or prettied up for civilian use. Much to discover! Best regards, David Muir

G'day Anthony, Coincidentally my WNW DH9 arrived yesterday for just such a conversion...one of the Qantas ones in my case. Decades ago while trawling the library for my uni thesis I stumbled across a long-ish contemporary article on the DH50 which had drawings, interiors, etc. Great articles as they generally covered everything in depth and detail and had lots of oddball subjects...the Zeppelin Staaken E4/20 for example. I have forgotten the name of the publicationin the five intervening decades (yikes!) and I had been planning to return and track it down in the near future. I will move it up my priorities and get there asap and share any results... Regards, David M

I too have one of these in the stash and have been gathering information and drawings for the engine. It seems a terrible waste not to at least try to fill the otherwise reasonably detailed void. Having seen how yours turned out I am inspired to get going.

Thanks Jack, Must be going blind... David M

I am trying to contact Copper State Models but cannot see any contact details on their website. Does anyone have contact details for CSM? Thanks and regards, David M

Thanks Ian. I am about to place an order with Aviattic and will follow your advice, break the habit of a lifetime, and follow their instructions. David M

Try Robert Bentley at RB Motion. Great guy, great products and sometimes does custom work.

Many thanks Pin. Given their brief use I assume unfaded pattern for a DIII? Apart from the painting of an underlayer is there any difference between the two versions (transparent verses full colour)?

I am new to this WWI lark and about to attack my first: a 1/32 Roden DIII in Udet's colours, having always wanted one since it was illustrated on the back of an Eagle issue a very long time ago. Web reviews are a little confusing: some like the kit decals some don't. Hence any and all advice for the lozenge fabric will be much appreciated. HGW decals seem to be the go...but which of their many 1/32 5 colour offerings is appropriate? Or are there better alternatives? Thanks and regards, David M Sydney, Straya

Thanks for the offer Seahawk, much appreciated. The comments have been passed to Airfix along with an offer to assist...and we await their response. David M

Given my slightly more than passing interest in RAAF Mustangs I was pleased to see that there were two RAAF marking options in the recent Airfix announcements. I was less pleased once I had examined the initial profiles published on the Airfix website. I hope that the profiles do not reflect the actual markings that will be issued with the kits. KH676 CV-A (Kit A05137) I know of 12 views of KH676, all taken at Lavariano while 3RAAF was participating in the July 1945 victory flypast. All show the port side and nose and most are included in Southern Cross Mustangs. As far as I know there are no starboard side shots...but would love to see one! Based on these photos the following are noteworthy: the spinner was light blue (not 3RAAF's usual MTO red) the white carburettor intake lip is not shown, nor are the patches of Medium Sea Grey and an unidentified dark colour showing through the white paint. overall it is a poor depiction of the 'RAF4' 'Firewall' scheme, notably: this scheme did not have any green on the engine cowlings. a block of green extended aft from the rear line of the cowlings; there was no grey immediately behind this line. the roughly vertical green/grey demarcation at the back of that block near trailing edge should be straighter at the top and bottom and should be slightly further aft so that it passes through the chamfered corners of the 'C' rather than down its leading edge. the demarcation line through the port roundel should be further aft and more vertical. the aerial mast should be green not grey. the green/grey demarcations under the tailplane should follow the panel lines, vertically at the back of the line above the jacking point and horizontally along the edge of the root fillet. the filler cap was over-painted in grey and is not red as depicted and it did not have the black dot shown immediately behind. the crocodile applied by 159 MU above the fin flash (port side only) is missing. the Firewall scheme was applied in the MTO and hence did not have the UK mandated yellow leading edges. the most common ordnance on 3RAAF Mustangs were bombs rather than drop tanks although the latter were used. KH676 had had its night flying exhaust shields removed and the exposed patches overpainted, probably in green. the exhaust shrouds had been removed, a common practice in 3RAAF. Its battery remained behind the pilot and hence it did not have the small intake on the inner wing root/cowling panel. the canopy shape shown on the side view is a California profile; KH676 actually had a Texas 3 profiled canopy, complete with its redundant and blanked off aerial fairlead. the code letter 'A' is too narrow and its horizontal stroke too broad. As a result the centre triangle is too small. It is also too far aft and too low: the lifting hole should intersect the bottom edge of the forward arm just behind its centre line. the other two code letters are also positioned too low and should almost (but not quite) touch the skin line above them. the style of the serial is incorrect: it should be in the rounded 8" x 5" solid style not square and stencilled as shown. the fin flash is incorrectly positioned: it should have its rear edge hard against the rear edge of the fin and its lower front corner just touching the top of the root fillet. the main stars in the Southern Cross on the rudder were 4" in diameter and had seven points rather than the eight as depicted; Epsilon Crucis (the smaller star) was 3" in diameter and had five points rather than eight. All five are slightly out of position: the top and right hand stars (and the Epsilon Crucis) should be further aft; the bottom star should be higher and roughly in line with the tail light. I will be interested to see if Airfix got the upper wing roundel diameter (48") correct for KH676 instead of repeating, yet again, the old furphy of the 40" roundel on RAF Mustangs. Thankfully the Korean War era RAAF example in Kit A05136 seems to be a little more accurate to the original. Nonetheless there are a few, notably: the canopy should again be a Texas 3 with a blanked off aerial fairlead. the fin flash is too tall; its bottom edge should just touch the root fillet at the front The serial style is correct but should be positioned with it top edge just below the root fillet The stainless steel panel around the exhausts is only slightly darker than the adjacent natural metal fuselage panels A68-720 was fitted with rocket stubs and carried six and ten rounds at various times. Airfix has missed an opportunity here: earlier in its career 720 had far more attractive markings with 82 Squadron FA codes and their 'Pegasus' badge on the fin and both a natural metal and a dark blue painted spinner at various times. David Muir Author: Southern Cross Mustangs

Trevor, You are broadly correct. The first 120 CAC built Mustangs (serials A68-1 to A68-120) had wings filled and smoothed in the same manner as the US production aircraft. It was decided to delete the wing filling from A68-121 onward and as far as I know A68-121 to A68-200 were the only Mustangs to leave the factory without wing filling. By that stage production of the Mustangs at CAC had been slowed to a crawl and was essentially a make work activity to keep and maintain skills on the line and in the company. The reduced production rate meant that a great deal more care and effort went into tighter control on panel fits, etc and the CAC examples had less need for filler. In the warbird world they thus have a reputation for being better built than the NAA examples. David Muir Author: Southern Cross Mustangs One further note: The Ducimus pamphlet should be approached with some caution: for example it is the source of one of the longest enduring Mustang Myths as, thanks to a typo, it calls up the upper wing roundels as 40" instead of the correct 48" diameter.

Admirable Admiral, There is a National Fairground Archive attached to Sheffield University in Pommieland. Go here: https://www.sheffield.ac.uk/nfca Then go to Collections and select by subject...for example for Transport go here: https://www.sheffield.ac.uk/nfca/collections/subject/transport That will keep you amused and inspired for a while...and you can always contact them and ask for stuff specific to the Scammell... There also seems to be a few books around on the general subject...I will send you a list otb... DM

Thanks Mike, thanks Mike, thanks Dale, thanks Neil, All good advice. I like the idea of a touch of green in the mix as all the clear blues in my (limited) stock are a bit pure for the look I have in mind. Won't need much, just enough to very slightly muddy the waters. Painting is definitely not my forte so I also like the idea of thinning it with untinted clear and then building it up like painters do with watercolours...gives me some wriggle room and will (hopefully) stop me from stuffing it up in my usual manner. It actually terrifies me so, for once, I will do some test pieces before attacking the model proper. Again, many thanks. David

Thanks Don, thanks Grant. I will try both and the SMS lacquer just for fun and see what happens. David

I am working on a "what if" monocoque café racer based around a Honda engine and would like to do the "interior" bits - the electrics and battery bays that are exposed when the seat is raised - in Aotake blue as used on Japanese a/c during WWII. I believe it was a semi-transparent finish over bare metal and am thinking SMS Clear Blue over foil...but does anyone have a better recipe? TIA David M

I have a book published way back in the 60's on the Vimy which also covered the Commercial. I think (repeat think!) it is still on loan to Jim Travis...but may have been returned and hiding in my piles of books. I will look further. We can take a really long look over a couple of beers when you come down to civilisation for the next APMA meeting...I am sure it has cockpit details as I started a scratchbuilt fuselage at the time... DM

Thanks Pete, The youtube is for the 1/20 but at least shows how the parts are split; it is not obvious on the model as the fit is very good indeed. I have subsequently found an image of the 1/12 that confirms that the engine covers are removable...still unsure how or if the nose is also detachable. Again, thanks, David M

I have been given one of Tamiya's big RA272 diecasts that needs a little repair work. It came without a box or any instructions so I am unsure if (and if so: how) the nose cone and engine covers are removable. There is not a lot to do and I am reasonably confident I can make the repairs "as is", but it would be easier if the covers were off. Otherwise it is in great shape so I am reluctant to whack it with a big hammer... If anyone has one and/or knows how to disassemble one I would be very grateful for any and all advice. TIA David M Sydney, Straya

Tamiya 1/12 Caterham BDR for a bargain AU$150 (£88)...started; but given most of it screws together it can be easily un-started. And a set of Tamiya 1/12 Mud and Snow rally tyres with 'Minilite' (actually Watanabe clones) wheels which may end up on the Caterham shod with a set of Tamiya 'All Weather' Dunlops. Given EvilBay prices I am one happy chappie...