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About Jordi

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  1. Absolutely untrue. Where do people get this kind of balderdash from anyway? I know the gentleman who designed the Revell Beaufighter, and Accurate Miniatures was long since part of history long (years) before he ever started working it, and he did the work for Revell 100% from scratch.
  2. I disagree. I have kits from both companies. Have you actually seen any of the newer “gold” Kinetic kits? They are very nearly the equal of Tamiya’s latest. The surface detail is exceptionally fine, and the parts fit is superb. Their F-104 is an absolutely outstanding model kit. AMK, on the other hand, has very coarse, heavy panel detail on every one of their kits that I have seen or purchased. The Hobby Craft MiG-31 is more accurate, more detailed, and has much finer surface detail than the much-ballyhooed AMK kit.
  3. Since the Tamiya 1/48 P-38F/G kit is out (or nearly so), I noticed that Xtradecal has some new sheets coming out for it. From what I can see, they simply say “P-38F”, “P-38G”, or “P-38H”. Unfortunately that isn’t much help, especially in the case of the P-38H. I have a fair number of references on the Lightning, and honestly until this kit came out, I had never really studied it in great detail. It seems that no two references agrees on the detail differences between them. Compared to other WWII fighters, the amount published on the Lightning is minuscule. The bottom line is, you can build a P-38F or G from the Tamiya kit out of the box (at least per the PDF instruction sheet I have downloaded). With a bit more work you can do an E. There are some small detail differences, some of which Tamiya appears to have catered for, but others that they have not. But if you want to build a P-38H it is a bit more problematic. The P-38H was the most widely variable version in terms of detail differences between the various production blocks. It truly seems to have been a bridge from the earlier marks to the J/L. From the Tamiya kit, you can build a P-38H-1-LO by using the larger supercharger intakes (seen tucked under the wing trailing edge on the outboard side of each nacelle) available from Quickboost, or robbed from a Hasegawa, Academy, or Monogram P-38J/L/M kit. If you want to build any P-38H-5-LO or later, you’re out of luck. The H-5-LO had a single piece wrap-round rear window that lacked the circumferential seams as provided in the Tamiya kit. On the H-10-LO or higher, you need the rear glass from a P-38J/L. That later style was two pieces (left/right) with a large metal structural member on the centerline between them. Not impossible, but not a really simple fix either. Fundecals has announced that they are working on P-38 decals as well, and after having downloaded the instructions for their recent Spitfire and Corsair sheets, I am looking forward to seeing what they come up with on the Lightning (if you have not seen them, I recommend - you do not have to buy the decals to download their instruction manuals). I have some of the decals on order, and will report on my impressions when I get them in hand. Edit: Mods - sorry, I meant to post this under “WWII” - please transfer.
  4. Using that supercharger intake only gets you a P-38H-1-LO from the Tamiya kit. To do a P-38H-5-LO you need a new aft cockpit window (with no seams in it), and for a P-38H-10 or higher you need a P-38J/L type aft cockpit window that has a center metal frame longitudinally down it.
  5. On permanent hold from what I am given to understand. I think Kinetic realized that they would likely lose their shirts on such a kit.
  6. The Kinetic kit that just came out is absolutely gorgeous. Seems like AMK is at best going to be a "me too" effort. What a waste.
  7. The real thing was 100% done by hand with an airbrush. I think any other method on a model looks like another method, not like the real thing. It really isn’t that difficult to do once you practice a bit. I have built dozens of hand-mottled Luftwaffe models, and each is a bit better than the one before.
  8. If only! There hasn’t been a tall tail BUFF at the bone yard in a couple of decades
  9. 30 years ago in 1989 that Kit was a musty old antique!
  10. Jordi

    Heller 1/72 c-121a

    Honestly it really doesn’t matter. The windows in the Heller 749 kit are the wrong size and every one is incorrectly placed. I used to have an article by Larry “Ivan” Potosky in IPMS/USA about all the many problems with the Heller kit, which showed the correct window size and placement. I will have to see if I can dig it up.
  11. The size and shape of the air brake on all F-15s except the very earliest ones with the short air brake was the same. The only difference was the presence (early) or absence (99% of the F-15’s history) of the strake on top of the brake itself. The small fairing at the aft end of the brake differed between the A and C models.
  12. Have you seen this? Not the exact aircraft you are looking at, but the instructions run to nearly 60 pages! I just discovered this recently. http://fundekals.com/spitfiresPart2.html
  13. Some Milliput, a wet finger, and about 15 minutes of your time. I have done it twice using the ESCI kit. Super easy.
  14. The only 1/48 MB.151 kit I am aware of other than the yet-to-be-released Dora Wings kit (which looks fantastic) is an early 1990s resin kit. Have there been others? I have grave doubts that any aftermarket decals exist either way though, especially for something as esoteric as a Greek aircraft.
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