yeehah1

009-08-07 What kind of harness did the Vb use and wasn't there a manufacturer who released a photoetch set JUST of seatbelts?? Liam (actually, I'll ask that elsewhere as well)

08-08-07 Right. I had mentioned in an earlier thread that I was building one of these..or at least going to attempt to build one of these in 1/32. I had started it a few months ago, getting distracted by a few other things and a commission build or two, but now that they've been taken care of, it's full-steam ahead with the ole MesserSpit. Here's what's done so far.... Using the Hasegawa 1/32 Spitfire Vb as a base, I cut hte nose off and have rivetted it and rescribed some of the panels...preferring to leave some of the underbelly raised lines and rivets alone. It was suggested that the way I am going to build the upper cowling, that I have too steep a dip at the spinner...but looking at the few photos that are on the web, and the profiles based on them, I disagree. All I need to do is lenghten the nose a little and it should deal with the "sudden-dip" problem. One of the beauties of making this plane ( and a curse in many ways) is that nobody knows for sure.... Cowling donated by the 1/32 Revell Bf 110 G-4 Destroyer. There are a ton of mistakes in all this that will have to be sorted as I go. Looking at the Hase Spit...are those (what I take to be) gun covers ok to leave as raised elements or should I take them off and rescribe? Liam Frankly, this build scares the pants off me (and that's not a pretty sight!)

06-08-07 Dylan: Who are Aeropoxy masks ? Liam

06-08-07 I always found him friendsly and helpful too...granted different people have different opinions but I like Britmodeller.com because it seemd that people could talk to each other without people throwing their toys out of the pram...like it was understood that although we wouldn't agree all the time, we could at least talk. I hate to see this forum head the way ARC went where people would drop out at the mere hint of a different opinion.... Please come back Pingu...you still do post here... just make it official again. Liam

06-08-07 How come Pingu is signed in as a guest? And what happened to his avatar? Curious, Liam

03-08-07 Thanks Ted, I might like to try that. I usually put isoprophyl alchol through mine at the end of each session, but maybe the windowlene would be better. Liam

03-08-07 Building this as part of a group build on The Other Site.... Lovely little kit, this one...nice detail to the cockpit... but it's funny that althought you can drop the flaps, there is no rivet detail on the "underneath" side of the dropped flap.. Is it meant to be like that? Liam

03-08-07 Where's the video? Liam

02-08-07 Lovely job. Pilot looks a bit stunned, though. Liam

02-08-07 You mentioned elsewhere that you spray Windowlene through your airbrush to clean it after using acrylics. Can you elaborate on this, please? Do you thin it? Does it cause any harm and is it an effective cleaner? Thanks in advance Liam

01-08-07 Hey there. Finished the Skyraider and hte pics I posted last night we not so good, so I took a few more..after adding what looked like a whip antenna...not as thin as it needed t obe, but best I could do after dropping it and search-and-rescue 3 times. (it's not shown in the assembly guide, but it's there on the box art and in photos i found on-line) Again, thanks for all the kind words and encouragement. Liam

01-08-07 You should pin this thread, then! And actually, I was wondering...wasn't there a release in 1/48 that had a flat bottom, in that the there was no wing dihedral? I can't remember the make, but thought it was either Otaki or ICM? Liam

31-07-07 Done and Done!! I know the weathering on the wing tank is a littel heavy, but I have to Future it tomorrow, so maybe it'll tone down a bit. I have to say...this is a beautiful kit to work with... a real sweetheart. If you haven't treid one yet, have a go.... And it's such a big beast of a machine too! Liam ps, thanks for all the kind comments, lads. Constructive crit. is always welcome, but the kind words warm the heart and lend a little more encouragement to build another kit and to try another technique.

27-07-07 Hi guys.... The kit is hte Tamiya 1/48 A-J1 Skyraider, USAF. It is, beyond doubt, a wonderful kit, well engineered and comes with a ton of stores. Highly recommended. daz: the stripes are a kinda of tan color and the unit is 56th Special Operations Wing, 602nd Fighter Squadron, no.14. i did a quick Google and found this: http://www.ljmilitaria.com/usaf_sos_acs___...s_20th___up.htm http://skyraider.org/skyassn/otherpics/mig...2sos/602sos.htm Some interesting photos on the second site..especially hte ones that show the mixed camos in-flight...greys flying with SEA camos. They are referred to as an air comando unit, so maybe.. Liam

27-07-07 eh? Liam

27-07-07 It's happened again!!! Guys, this is exactly what I was talking about with regard the speckling after using my rattle-can gloss spray. Any ideas???? Liam

25-07-07 Mentalguru: Yeap, I find Smoke very useful, but having prblems with my Badger 150, it tends to clog very easily and I usually have the mix very thin...anyways, it can getaway from you....but Ifind that if you d oyour best to mist it and build it up in fine coats, the effect is quite good. The Irish Air Corps Hurricane i ahve posted elsewhere was post-shaded along the rear-ribbing using Tamiya Smoke...very finely sprayed in the "recesses" of the ribbing and gently across the decals...mainly as the decals looked brand-spanking new on a weathered and used airframe. The effect was quite pleasing..... Liam

25-07-07 It was....<gulp> preshaded. Each color was then airbrushed on and when done, each was then reapplied only with a touch of white to lighten it up and sprayed roughly in the middle of each panel inside it's own color demarcation. If it looked too light, I got the base color, put a touch of balck into it and sprayed inside the lighter color again... However,once the spray cocked up the finish, I had to post-shade it with airbrushed Tamiya smoke..it looks a littel heavy in the flesh, put a few coats of Johnston Klear seemed to soften it. The bottom wasn't sprayed black, I thought that as I wanted it weathered a bit, with faded paint, I went with Gunship Grey asa base-color, then threw in some balck to darken it down and then reprayed inside the panels as best I could, but not over-spraying hte panel lines themselves...sorry, fopr the spellings, I have hte flu and i hate it. Liam

25-07-07 Yes, some modelling does get done inbetween all the chat and calendar oogling And from above.. Had a problem with the gloss coat I spray before I decalled it...I use the Games Workshop rattle-cans..Purity Seal. For some reason, it went all hard and pebbly..turned a kind of white, scaly thing along the fuselage side and across one wing...had to scape it off and repaint and respray. Only thing I can think is that the paint hadn't dried fully ( acrylic) or that the can was too close when I sprayed it. Anyways, I saved it, looks good and working on the ordanance.. Liam

25-07-07 Wouldn't mind a couple of sets myself.... Liam

23-07-07 You can buy a bottle of cellouse thinners especially for airbrushes in most hardware stores. It even has a picture of an airbrush on it. NOT sure if it will damamge the plastic seal. Maybe an email to Revell might garner an answer? Liam

red x's..... Liam

21-07-07 Hi guys. I hope this is the correct forum to ask this in but can anyone tell me the differences ( mainly external) in these two choppers and if there is a kit in 1/72 do make them? I have some rather lovely decals for each.... Thanks ina advance Liam

20-07-07 Heya. I use this stuff and found that it almost depends on what color you are using at the time. If you are talking brush painting, some go on smooth and others are like brushing white or yellow...they don't brush well at all. I find that if brush painting, I put it on as best I can, trying to get the brush strokes all going in the one direction. Leave it sit for a minute or two ( but no longer..it dries quickly) and then go over the section just painted, but brush-stroking in the other direction...but lightly. You almost need to flick the brush across the surface. You'll need to do this a few times. Another way is to prime the plastic surface first. If you are talking airbrushing, then you almost need a 3/4 water to 1 paint...although for me, since I installed new bits on my airbrush the paint seems to be drying very, very quickly and clogs the nozzle...so maybe 1:1 might work. By the way, can anyone recommend a better airbrush than the Badger 150 double-action? Mine is driving me nuts. Must be double action. Hope this helps a little. Liam

20-07-07 It's amazing...only on Britmodeller can you go from a Spitfire Mk22 to William Shatner jokes. Liam