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Brigbeale

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Everything posted by Brigbeale

  1. The model was put in the freezer to aid disassembly. All that aided in was removing the rudder assembly and parting the top and bottom of the fuselage. The fuel tanks and bombs came off as well - almost complete, The fuselage separated after removing the canopy and rear stabiliser assembly. The pilot and his seat came out as well. I had to resort to using a saw to cut through the wing to fuselage joints as they were well glued on there! The wings were then separated from the wing root/intake housing as they’d been set at the wrong angle. The fuel tank and bomb pylons were removed as I’d prefer this one to have the clean uncluttered look. The outer wings were rescribed and sanded to remove excess glue and raised panel lines. I also found ejector pin marks on the outer surface - Thanks Airfix!!. The raised ones were sanded back and the recessed ones will need filling. That led to the wing tip lights being cut out, a suitable piece of clear sprue filed, drilled, the holes painted red and green accordingly and fitted to the wings.
  2. This first post is to introduce you to an old Sea Hawk, in plain white plastic with its decals applied, which was purchased a fair while ago and took up residence on the to-be-restored shelf. I think it was another 99p purchase. Ive almost started it a couple of times but decided on another project instead. It’s now time to put the Sea Hawk under the spotlight and restore it. It was pretty much complete - only having the nose gear and tail hook missing. One main gear was snapped off but the other was present mainly due to the overly thick wheel bay doors supporting it. I bought some original decals for it but I saw an image of XE368 with yellow and black recognition stripes and thought “Ooooh - I like that!” I found two images of this Sea Hawk- one on display and the other - looking in need of some TLC. I’m not sure which one is the most current image though. I also spotted it on a YouTube video where a man and his mates buy and fix military vehicles. XE368 appears minus her wings and with the nose/cockpit under a tarpaulin.
  3. I have a Frog kit coming soon which I intend to be an Army Lynx, so I can once again have a pair of them.
  4. That’s one good looking Sea Hawk!! I have just found this build from an internet search for a Sea Hawk I’d like=e to depict. My one is a restoration project (it’s what I do) and is in the plain white plastic so that gives an indication to its age. Your Sea Hawk has given the inspiration to do what I can to bring mine kicking and screaming up to date. Now I will only see a flying penguin when I look at it
  5. I purchased this kit from EBay as a 1/72 Westland Navy Lynx Mk8 about 18 months ago. Initially I was delighted with it - after a quick look in the box it was placed in the stash. SWMBO said to me “why don’t you build a helicopter?”. So I got it out of the stash (despite me receiving 3 helicopter pre-owned kits for Christmas (A Fujimi Lynx 1/72, Heller Allouette 1/72 and a 1/48 scale Airfix Boeing Apache). When I looked at the parts, I thought “Hang on a minute - this ain’t right!” The Mk8 nose was missing as well as the composite style rotor blades. I’d been duped - I checked the listing in my purchase history and it said the kit was complete. I nearly put it back in the box and built the Fujimi one instead. I started the WIP anyway and compared what I had part-wise against the instructions. The disappointment of not doing the Mk8 clouded my vision for the model until @Ex-FAAWAFU came to the rescue and informed me that I had enough parts to build an HAS2 Lynx. Thank you @Ex-FAAWAFU for the motivation. So I did - although I couldn’t use the original decals as they didn’t cover the HAS2 version. I purchased a set of ModelDecal decals which allowed for a Yeovil based HAS2 (it’s not that far from me although I still haven’t been there yet). The Airfix decals were donated to Chris for his HMS Endurance Lynx build. The WIP is here The paint choice was blue. No grey versions. I’m glad to say, despite the odd way the Gloss Cote dried and cracked - a la late 1990 furniture, the Lynx has turned out better than expected.
  6. That’s another model finished which the addition of the two torpedoes. They were painted Tamiya Aluminium (as I cant for the life of me, find the spare paint from the Canberra build). It was a simple case of mask the nose section leaving the front face uncovered and airbrushing the paint on. the parachute packs were painted red and a couple of strips of decal were added to break up the aluminium colour. They were a bit of a pig to fit though, as the pins and holes are not exactly in line. I used a craft knife to taper the holes on the torpedoes to help the pins in to their respective holes. I have purposely left the main rotor assembly not glued to the fuselage, as I remember when I built my two Matchbox Lynxes when I was a teenager, the rotor assembly or individual blades kept getting knocked off when I re-organised the collection on top of my wardrobe due to new completed additions. The rotor assembly sits quite happily on top without being fixed in position. I also used the tip for using a blue highlighter to shade the top cockpit windows. There’s enough tint to make the difference without over-doing it. Here’s a sneak preview of the photos which will appear in the RFI.
  7. Earlier today, I had some time to myself while the Estates Manager went shopping with her son. I took advantage of this and quickly knocked up an image of 3 long rectangles - two red with a white one in between. I re-sized them to be approx 1.5mm each and printed them on both clear and white decal paper. I needed the clear ones but I may need the other version at some point in the future. They were then given a coat of spray matt varnish and left to dry for the afternoon. Tonight, I started by measuring the width of the tail rotor blades - 3mm - and cutting 7mm sections. After a soak they were then applied to the rotor blade tips with the overlap on the back which is only just visible. These decals set fairly quick so the rest of the blades were painted flat black. Once the paint was dry, the pitch mechanism? was fitted- it’s a bit over scale but what can you do -apart from make the assembly out of wire. I may do that on the Army Lynx which I’ve seen an image of painted Green/Nato Black. I then got a length of the smoke coloured nylon line I purchased from Poundland and (after 2 failed attempts probably due to the Superglue being past it and using a new pot) I finally got the line to stick and pull straight. I nipped the excess off and I feel it looks good. Not bad for a quid! The rotor assembly was fitted and Revell paint pots were used to ensure it stayed vertical. While that was setting, I put some wash in the main rotor assembly hub/blade mounts to add some definition. I then got the torpedoes out of the cupboard and - oh dear…… the finish on the paint was terrible. It was various shades of orange and lumpy in places - so I scraped it off. I got some Mr Color Yellow and Red and made a passable orange. This painted on a lot smoother with a brush. I’m going to let that dry fully before I mask the business ends off and airbrush them with some leftover silver/grey paint from the Canberra build. Then I can paint the sanded down parachute packs red and fit them to the Lynx. The tyres were touched in with Nato Black and the wipers carefully painted in the same colour. (I’d be lost without the magnifying headset now). A few other areas were touched up and the interior floor was repainted where the blue made its way past the sponge. Some wash was applied to denote the dirty floor where the passengers didn’t wipe their feet before entering! Apart from the torpedoes, the painting is done on the Lynx and it’s all but finished. And the inspiration for the colour of the torpedoes on an HAS2 (French Navy?)
  8. Work commenced on giving the rotors some colour tonight. The first thing was to paint the blade ends white. This was in preparation for the yellow painted tips on the main rotor blades while the tail rotor just received white paint from the tip to about the mid point as they’re black/red/white/red in colour. Yellow paint was airbrushed onto the ends of the main rotor. While that was drying, I measured a 25mm strip of masking tape and cut it into 4 thin strips down its length. One strip was placed on each rotor blade from the joint where the blade joins the hub outwards. I then cut 8 very thin strips and placed 4 of them across the blades at the end of the 25mm strips. The other 4 were paced approx 2mm further out. The hub was also masked off. The tips were masked with more tape and Tamiya XF-62 Olive Drab was airbrushed on the upper and lower sides. After 10minutes or so the tape was removed to reveal the desired effect. The green covers were painted into the sponsons and near the nose on both sides. The replacement antenna was knocked off, found and re-attached. All the antennae were painted flat black. The Lynx with its newly painted main rotor assembly added. And finally for tonight, I bought this off eBay for £5 +p&p. Ive looked it up and I should be able to make the Army Lynx with skids instead of wheels.
  9. The end is in sight……. The serial number and Yeovil Squadron codes (VL) were added to the fuselage and the sliding door decals were also applied. Still had a bit of clouding on one sliding door from the Decalfix though, so maybe it’s the Gloss Cote. I’ll have to try it on my mule fuselage to see what’s at fault. I’m going to get some more Micro Set though as I never had any issues with that. Also, I need to find some Kleer or whatever is called now. The landing gear was fitted and once the gear was firm enough, the wheels were then fitted. One nose wheel kept pulling sideways which required the Lynx being placed on its wheels with a pair of big nuts (not those ones! - honestly, you lot!!) were placed either side of the nose gear to hold them long enough to keep them level with each other. Once the gear was sorted, the sliding doors were fitted in position. Some careful application of Mr Cement S meant the doors could slide, so I can show off the interior if I want to. The excuse for a load attachment point was fitted as well as the underside antennae. That’s when I discovered I’d been short-changed by Airfix this time. They left the rearmost antenna out, so I made a replacement out of a part identification tab off of one of the sprues. I just used my nippers to shape it and then it was sprue-goo’d in position. The pitot tube was fitted also. I’m not convinced that the torpedoes (whichever mark they are meant to be) are just yellow. I found some images of Mk44’s but they were superseded by the mk46. The mk46 images don’t have the ring around the fins as far as I can see in the images I found. I’ve also found images of one Non UK Navy fitting one to a Lynx but nothing on the Royal Navy Lynxes being fitted with them. So more homework needed. I have a colour scheme in mind as can be seen in the photos.
  10. I had a bemusing comment from SWMBO this morning. She asked and I quote: ”What did you do to my helicopter last night?” HER helicopter??? Thats it then,- I’m getting another one as the Army model!
  11. Whist decalling the Lynx tonight, I thought I’d ruined the paintwork This decalling process was one of the most trying ones I’ve had so far. I started by using Mr Mark Setter to place the decals as I had done on the Phantom. I still find it odd that my jar of this setting solution is a milky colour whereas I saw someone on YouTube using the same stuff and it was clear. The decals were put into warm water to release them from the backing paper and a dab of Mr Mark Setter was applied. The decal was slid off the backing paper, but when it was put on the fuselage, some horrible white dots were behind the carrier film. When the decal was moved they slid out from underneath so they were either from the backing paper itself or the glue. They cleared up with a cotton bud though. I continued to place the others by removing the decals from the backing paper and then swishing them through the water to clean them off and then apply them to the fuselage using the aforementioned setting solution. Now here’s things went awry. Where the setting solution had dried around the area of the decal, had turned a greyish colour which clearly stood out against the blue fuselage.. I can’t write what I thought, I’d get a warning at least!! I can only think it was a reaction between the Gloss Cote and the Mr Mark Setter or the mr Mark Setter and the backing paper/glue residue or a mixture if all three. I swapped to using the Humbrol Decalfix instead. Apart from having to swirl the decal in clean water, they went on with no more issues. But that left the main body decals with the reaction patches around them which didn’t clean back with a damp cotton bud. Once the last of the decals had been applied to the fuselage tonight (I still have the serial number and sliding door decals to apply yet), i figured I’d have one last try to see if I could remove the reaction staining, so I dipped a fresh cotton bud in the Decalfix and gently rubbed the affected areas, and…………..moderate success. The staining lessened or disappeared. But it still had to dry meaning it could possibly return. That’s when I had another thought due to another unwanted reaction. When I posted last night’s photos, the model was touch dry and it was left in the cabinet to dry. When I got the model out tonight there was a slight crazing effect. another swear word was said kind of along the lines of Fiddlesticks! I’ve taken a picture of the sliding doors which are, at the moment, still like it. Now the fuselage now had the slight crazing and the still visible reaction staining around the decals. My choices were to either try to lightly brush more paint over the affected areas or try another coat of Gloss Cote. I opted for the Gloss Cote. As it went on, the staining was still visible and the crazing disappeared, but as the Gloss Cote settled, the staining disappeared. It’s now been about an hour and neither unwanted reactions have resurfaced, but I’ll have to wait until tomorrow so see if they remain that way. Other than that, the Lynx looks great so far.
  12. 2Apologies for being absent last night. My other stepson had me traipsing around the county delivering his old car to its new owner and then going to buy his new car - which means another diesel Ford Focus in the family for me to repair when (not if) they break them.. I don’t mind the cars themselves but no matter what’s broken, they think I can fix it in 5 minutes. Engine lights are just a light to turn off no matter what’s caused it! Any way enough twaddle! I tried to get a pot of Tamiya Sea Blue, but as usual the Hobbycraft near me didn’t have any. I looked for an acrylic Humbrol Oxford Blue - none of that either. So I asked SWMBO (who was shopping with her son in Sainsburys) to nip into Model Railway Solutions where they stock Mr Color Aqueous, Humbrol enamel and Ammo paints. According to a colour conversion chart the equivalent Mr Color to Humbrol’s Oxford Blue is H54 Navy Blue, so I asked her to get me a pot. Ahh, it wasn’t the colour I was expecting. It was more of a grey-blue. I went back to see if I could get the right colour. They had an enamel tin of Humbrol 104 Oxford Blue so some lids were removed to get as close a match as possible. The best I could match to was Mr Color Aqueous H328 Gloss Blue FS15050 (US Navy Blue Angels). Maybe not exactly the right blue for the Lynx, but I have an A-4 Skyhawk for restoration as a Blue Angel anyway so two birds and all that….. This evening I painted the Lynx, the sliding doors and the runners. It went on very well with a lovely sheen. Once it was dried I gave the model a coat of Humbrol Gloss Cote to protect the Mr Color paint from the decal solution as it reacted with the paint on the Blenheim (but then that was a matt paint). Just the painted Lynx And after the Gloss Cote
  13. It’s getting close to the fuselage blue paint being applied! But first, I had to airbrush the inner cockpit frame colour on - Nato Black in this case. I also airbrushed the tyres while they are still on the sprue as they’re quite small. I can touch in the sprue marks once they’re fitted to the Lynx. The tail rotor fold hinges and lock were fitted - but they had to be cut down as they looked too big to me. The upper nose antennae were fitted. The carpet monster tried to claim one but I persuaded him/her to give it back! I removed the rear cabin sponges and cut them in half vertically to reduce the thickness so they would sit in there without bulging out, pushing the bottom of the sponge the door step. The torpedo mounts were fitted and the torpedoes themselves were built up but not fitted as they’re going to be a different colour (what colour is yet to be confirmed as the instructions just give them as yellow).
  14. Well that was fun - masking the clear parts on the fuselage. As usual thin strips were used to frame the edges and then filled in with Mr Neo Masking Solution. The top windows were done freehand with the masking solution as I couldn’t get a definite border to mark and cut the masking tape against. Hopefully they’re ok but I can always fettle them with a cocktail stick and more paint to tidy them up if need be. As you will see in the photos, sponge was added to close up areas I don’t want the paint getting in. Some sanding was done to the underside centre seam and the Army version skid blanking plates - which needed the EPM’s filling again.
  15. Your secret’s safe with me. if it’s a 1/72 scale, are these any good to you?
  16. Thanks Chris, I’ve just noticed in the front view picture there’s a gap that needs filling under the observer’s windscreen.
  17. I’m sanded back the Mr Surfacer to even out the seams and, as said earlier, the underside would require another coat added. The next job was to fit the blanking plates for the skid equipped Army version of the Lynx. One had a protruding ejector pin mark and the other three had recessed ones. They too would need Mr Surfacer added to hide the EPM’s. Next up were the sliding door lower runners. I figured it would be easier to fit these first and when the doors get fitted, the upper runners could just be mounted in position to hold the doors. Now the moment I was, in a way in trepidation of. The cockpit glazing. I’ve also read fearful stories about the fit of early Airfix clear parts. In reality they went in quite well. Only the top of the observer door didn’t want to line up at the top of the screen. I simply pushed the lower back corner out which bought the front top into line. Once Mr Cement’d in it sat practically perfectly. I tried to emulate the blue windows above the cockpit by using very diluted French Blue. I used 2 very light coats. They looked ok so I fitted the panel in position. Only thing was once in position and fully dried, the blue has all but disappeared! Oh well - too late now. I pieced together the main gear sponsons (minus the gear legs) and fitted them in position. The nose wheel mount was also fitted to the underside. The seam lines were then treated to Mr Surfacer and then the sliding doors, main and tail rotors temporarily fitted for photos to be taken.
  18. I had a good modelling session this evening - mainly due to the fact I have turned off the tv in the background and used the radio instead. It surprising how much the tv distracts. I started by applying Tamiya tape seat belts to the rear cabin and the flight deck seats. The flight crew seat harnesses are meant to be black (as in XX910) but as yet, I’m I decided as to whether I should use a fine tip Sharpie on them. A quick check was made to make sure I hadn’t forgotten anything. Yep - the tail rotor axle pin. The instructions say to put the axle pin through the port fuselage half and fit the rotor assembly to it. Yeah, right! I’d probably knock a blade off or the whole thing. I decided to fit the rotor assembly later, but the axle pin had to be fitted before fuselage was glued together. There was a problem with that - the axle pin itself could be slid in and out of the tail assembly by about 1mm+, which would mean the rotor assembly wouldn’t fit fully onto the axle pin. The solution was to glue a piece of 1.5mm styrene rod to the inside end of the axle pin to prevent it being pushed in. I also had to chamfer the inside of the tail assembly near the pin to prevent the Mr Cement S capillary action getting onto the pin locking it solid (eventually). The cabin roof/rotor hub mount was painted silver (my aluminium paint has gone lumpy and can’t be used but it’s nearly empty anyway), which dried pretty quickly. The cockpit/rear cabin assembly and cabin roof/hub mount was fitted to the starboard fuselage. The tail rotor axle pin was reinserted again and the fuselage was fitted together with Mr Cement S runs around the seams. At the moment the tail rotor pin still turns. I took the exhaust surround panels about of the bag where the previous owner had put one (the other one broke off the sprue so I put that in there for safe keeping as well). The moulding piece was removed from the centre, the holes cleaned up and general flash removed. I painted the area where they would fit with NATO black just incase it was passable to see past the exhausts. The two surrounds were fitted in position - the fit was a lot better than I had been led to believe from the internet. The engine intake covers were fitted as well - again fitting very well - one not perfect but the other is comparable with modern Airfix kits. I decided to fit the nose cone, but a quick check to see where the tipping point to see if it would be a tail sitter was a bit inconclusive so I added some nose weight anyway and glued the nose cone in position after filing the top and bottom of the fuselage straight - as it was curved forward at the top and bottom. Time was nearly up for tonight’s session so I just had time to run some Mr Surfacer around the fuselage and engine exhaust/intake seams. The seam underneath I will require multiple coats to cover the highly visible seam line. And for the sheer hell of it, a photo with the main rotor assembly dry fitted on top.
  19. Tonight is one of those evenings where, on the face of it, not much has been done. I started by using airbrush cleaner and cotton buds to clean the paint off the rear seats. I felt if I applied another coat of paint on top of the blue paint already on them, it wouldn’t lay flat so off it came! They we’re repainted with French Blue which required a matt varnish as it was a gloss paint. They look a lot better now. While that was drying, I set about re-scribing the panel lines on the fuselage. I slipped once on the starboard side, but I should be able to remedy that with Mr Surfacer. In any case, it’s going to be hidden as the rear cabin doors can be slid to the open position. Then it was time to make the windows for the re-shaped apertures near the pilot’s/observer’s feet. I have some lexan left over from my son’s R.C. car shell. I was going to use an old cd case, but it was too thick. Once I got the shape about right, I found it easier to adjust the aperture to the size of the window rather than the other way round. Once I had a good tight fit, Mr Cement S was run around the edges inside and out. Hopefully, the fuselage plastic melts enough to absorb the lexan windows and the set again locking them in position permanently. I’ll find out when I go to remove the masking tape - although it may be easier to use masking solution. The parts were dry-fitted back together to reveal……..pretty much how it looked last night!
  20. Tonight, I began with airbrushing the interior parts Light Grey. After 20 minutes or so, I began painting the rear canvas seats blue with an acrylic general use paint - which was a pain in the backside as it didn’t want to paint on neat or diluted. It’s only bin fodder. As it dried it got darker - now it’s too dark. I’ll try to give the seats an off white wash to lighten them up a bit or repaint them with a lighter blue. The front seat cushions were painted with Revell Dark Green while the backs were painted with a Revell orange which required to be mixed with other colours for a non modelling project. It came in useful for the seat backs though. The fire extinguisher was painted red and the first aid/survival packs were painted with Mr Color Flesh. The straps need to be white with a red bit in the centre to form a Red Cross. Yellow was applied around the seat bases as on XX910 (although it’s hard to see it when the cockpit’s closed up). The centre console was painted with NATO Black as I felt full on matt black would be too strong. White paint was applied to the tops of the simulated knobs on the console with a cocktail stick. The instrument panel had the raised simulated dials removed and the new decal from the Modeldecal sheet was cut up and fitted to the various sections. I then found out that the instrument panel only fits in one place so it was fitted in position. Ooh! More ejector pin marks - lovely!
  21. In tonight’s thrilling instalment…… I sanded back the now dried Mr Surfacer in/on each of the EPM’s (ejector pin marks - easier than writing it out each time). The ones by the flight crews’ feet are visible (maybe not when the glazing is fitted but better to make sure). The main rotor mounting plate had some flash on the inside edge removed so the mounting boss on the rotor itself would seat properly. It was then tried between the fuselage halves and it seems to fit well. The rear bulkhead was fitted to the floor. The three rear cabin seats were fitted as well. The filler in the pilot and observer seats was sanded back, which revealed a small divot in each one, which in turn was treated to - yes you guessed it - some Mr Sufacer. I decided to emulate the survival packs fitted to the rear of the pilot and observer seats. I found, in my scraps box, an engine bulkhead from my Halifax build (it was previously started, but the previous owner of it got the build sequence wrong and it was beyond re-use on the Halifax). It was quite thick so I cut a strip off it and filed the edges on both faces all the way round to simulate canvas packs. They were then sprue goo’d onto the filler in the back of the seats. Very thin strips of Tamiya tape were then placed in a cross pattern over the ‘packs’. A piece of stretched sprue was then fitted to the rear of the observer seat to make (what I presume to be) a fire extinguisher. These can be seen in the walkaround images of XX910. The two seats were then fitted to their runners. The control column was fitted to the pilots side and the hole in the observer floor filled with more stretched sprue and nipped off flush. Thanks to @fatalbert’s note about the lower side windows, I resized the image and cut the window out. I placed it over the fuselage window and marked the new shape. I trimmed both windows with a knife and filed them. They may be a little larger than the intended size but I had to find the thicker plastic to get a good bond for when I fit the replacement windows.
  22. Thankyou @fatalbert for that bit of information. I looked for an image of a Lynx and found this one. Hopefully it won’t be too bad to do.
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