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About Sharknose

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  1. This is really interesting. The resin printers are now coming in around £250 to £300. That's pretty expensive as a starter but if you consider how many parts snap, are malformed or just hard to work with, fill in etc if you're turning round a lot of kits a year it's going to be gold. I only mentioned them in passing the other day, my Mrs just went "Nooooooooo". Sigh.
  2. Oh and never use cellulose thinners to clean canopy. I totally melted it for a tiger meet bronze typhoon and took months to build and paint. Sigh......
  3. I made an awful job of painting canopies. My last build I took the time to look here for recommendations. I dipped in Klear equivalent. When masking using tamiya tape, I ran the blade along the frame edges to trim. This was reasonably successful. With thin layers of airbrushed tamiya acrylic I also tried running the blade along the edge to lift the tape. Not as good as most of these folks on here. But miles better. My only issue was I left it so long to do, the tape fogged the canopy so I had to careful clean up with IPA I think and redo the clear bits. So, dont expect perfect but try for small improvements in every step and good luck.
  4. Sharknose


    Wonder if Ringo meant digital as in jpeg image file or such like as opposed to the tiny little squares! I get why, if you can scan in the paint guides, scale them, it does make for a good mask.
  5. Thanks for the speedy response. Noted on the IPA. Cheers.
  6. Hi, I wanted to try some ModelAir paints, a lot of people suggest using their flow improver too, but can you use IPA instead, or am I better taking a hit for tenner for the proper stuff? Thanks in advance, Sharks
  7. Cheers Steve, I think I bought the kit last year but could still be fairly old i suppose. Will persevere.
  8. I have the same airbrush and no matter how careful I am with everything these small splatters of paints happen. I generally use Tamiya acrylics thinned with Tamiya thinners or IPA (until Covid made it more expensive than saffron). I have found it best as I start to spray, to spray paint just to the side onto some paper towel, ease the trigger forward until just air, back over the target and paint. To clean my needle I was dropping it into a small bottle of cellulose thinners and I think I slightly damaged the tip of the 0.2mm needle, as I could feel it drag on a cotton bud when cleaning, so gently sanded it smooth.
  9. Cheers, so it's a right hassle then. Sigh......
  10. Sharknose

    Hasegawa Decals

    New then. I'm building Hasegawa's 1/48 F22 and there are a few small decals for the pilot's arm chair. Boy they are a pain, a lot of excess clear margin round each making it difficult to conform and both quite warm water or Klear are not making them all that pliable. I dug out some Humbrol decal set fluid for the last one I did today but they seem to be hard work and very delicate. I messed up the one for the very top of the seat. Are they all like this fro Hasegawa or, more likely, it's me.
  11. I couldn't work out that if you want to build with wing flaps closed, should they be completely closed, ie no gap between wing and flap. If there shouldnt be, then they are an issue. Well they were for me, but I cant hold a candle to this lad. Miles ahead of my skills.
  12. @InFlames out of interest, how did you get Eddie sat in the cockpit. I tried but found his feet would sit on top of pedals, seating him a tad too high and I was really hesitant to force it/ break it.
  13. <walks into the garage, picks up own version, throws in bin>
  14. Ha. I got told I cant buy any more until I've built a few up but that's mainly because she knows they keep me quiet for days on end and out of the way.
  15. Question please, do you have these bench extractor units so you don't have to wear a breathing mask?
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