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Sharknose

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  1. I am but a basic amateur and use an Ultra, the push in paint cups are indeed a pita, especially if you have oaf like tendencies, as I do. The black paint spatter pattern across 6 feet of my garage floor is testament to what happens when uncoordinated meets paint cup full of XF69.......
  2. Cheers all Tooling up = finished spraying for the day. Typically I'll rinse out as much paint as I can with thinners, or IPA, airbursh cleaner, depends what I'm using. Then put some cellulose thinners in, this is with everything in place, and I'll do a bit of a back wash. I stripped it down last night and changed the nozzle and needle seal, there was a fair amount of paint residue on the screw head side of the needle seal housing and in the area. Probably cos I pulled back for a long time. A follow up. Sonic cleaners. Do any of you use them and if so, what with? Just water?
  3. Hi, a daft question. After spraying and when ready for tooling up, I'll clean my AB, thinners etc, but when I strip it down, to take the needle out, do you draw it backwards and out? Or push forward and pull through? (Tip off obviously) If backwards are you risking pulling paint gruft back into the mechanisms behind the needle seal?
  4. Apologies if in wrong section, not sure of right one. I'm just knocking together Tamiya's M1 Abrams 1/35. Both tow cables snapped as I cut then carefully from the spruce, and the barrel of the smaller 7.62mm pew pew device is bent, when I remove from the sprue it's so thin I can't repair or risk a total breakage. Now I've made my own tow cables, the chances of bending those plastic ones as instructed are slim imo, but I'm not making a gun!! I rang The Hobby Company explained the brittlness of removing cables.... £7 per sprue, £5 postage.... Err I can get myself a new kit for that mate. Thanks and bye!! Anyone in UK had this before? Have I just phoned on the wrong day?
  5. Not sure if someone's said this. Toothpaste on a cotton bud. Wax on, wax off Daniel-son. Shiney shiney. Then a bit of a wash with water.
  6. A couple of people have now mentioned blutac causing them problems, if you are using the blue stuff, switch to white tac. I'm a real novice but saw this tip early in my model restart career and it is great, doesnt lift and doesnt leave a mark. Just dont leave it on forever.
  7. This is how it turned out in the end. I don't follow strict guidelines, building more what I feel like and painting how I want. https://www.instagram.com/p/CIazpKVhyyE/?igshid=1o8kxgora89kg
  8. I use Uhu white tac, nowt left on model in terms of residue mate
  9. Having had more model air lift with tamiya masking tape today, I'm having a ceremonial bonfire for my vallejo stock this weekend*. *actual events may differ from depiction.
  10. Run away....... I've just had my gut full of model air. I reckon it's all down to you, your paint style, your set up, how long you take. All that and wizardry that these top modellers keep secret, mate.
  11. I've got varifocals and use a version of the optivisor. I took the nose bridge and arms off, use the headband. Not the most comfortable given how heavy the light unit can be and the hard edges but I manage to "look over" the lenses for the stuff on the cutting mat. When I go in the loft for the xmas decs I will rummage in my old cricket gear for a headband I used to have, see if that makes a difference.
  12. Top information this mate, and explains why I've never seen too much of an issue thinning standard colours with IPA. I did this after seeing people say IPA is a cheaper alternative to thin Tamiya paints, as you used to be talking £7 for 250ml Tamiya thinners v £5 for 1l IPA. However since IPA went through the roof that price balance isnt so biased and the main lesson is, stick to the same thinners as paint brands.
  13. Interestingly - I put a spot of IPA on a cotton bud, and it went clear. Put just IPA into airbrush and re-sprayed and it's gone away!!!!
  14. I can't touch it right now or it's going on a test flight all of it's own down the garden.
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