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Everything posted by ianwau

  1. Some more progress.... The patient is in the recovery room having had a bit of liposuction to the aft section of the cockpit fairing. Not as hard as I thought - there was sufficient thickness in the resin to allow removal of a sliver of resin on what was previously an overly rounded profile. Thanks @Derek_B for the tip off! Still a bit more fine tuning - but won't require a general anaesthetic Oh - and I've glued the wings on.... Which has revealed a bit of an issue vs the plans/pictures (thanks again Derek!). - we're missing a bit of dihedral on the outer wing panels? - remember this is a one piece resin wing, so inherent in the moulding.. - actually not that disturbed by this. It's a beautiful piece of resin moulding, and a relatively straightforward fix Anyway - method has been to: - cut the wing 2/3 of the way through from the UNDERside - insert a 0.5mm styrene sliver. - glue with thin superglue and sand off -blend in with milliput (which is what you see in the pic below). - (the eagle eyed might note an extra cut on the inner port wing - a little 'adjustment' was required to true things up....) And here we are lining up back to plans... Next steps, - a bit of sanding of the Milliput (and maybe some touchups....) - tailplane - add hopper top and bottom - canopy. soonish.... Enjoying this one. As mentioned 1:72 not my normal scale - but gosh they take up quite a bit less space than 1:48 equivalent...
  2. Thanks Derek. An operating theatre appointment has been made for the patient. It's a tricky shape - I can see how LH! (or Aircast?) tripped up. .VH-SSF! Would love to see her painted up in an earlier SSF scheme! The Airfarm red fuse and yellow wings are so recognisable. Current Blayney Airfarmers scheme looks a bit trendy 1980's/1990's vs peak Ceres ops? My cockpit mods are, to be honest, pretty basic. Could have gone to town on it but my eyes and brain would not have appreciated it. Kit basis is a good start though.
  3. Thanks Derek! I'm looking at the Pg153 profile of SSZ Ceres-B but can't see the extra window? (Pg63 is Ceres-C). I can see CA28-2 on Pg135 has extra window but not CA28-5 SSZ.... Am I missing something? Also re the shape of the aft end of the cockpit fairing - do you have handy any photos that demonstrate the required shape? Most photos don't have sufficient resolution/detail to show this specific area. Happy to do a bit of surgery to get this fixed.
  4. Looking real nice! Glad to see this one progressing - I have this kit in my stash and your progress is nearly inspiring me to start it!
  5. Bit of an update. Now I should note that my 'normal' modelling scale is 1:48 - so this 1:72 caper is really testing my patience. The interior has gone together well enough. The kit provides cockpit floor, rudder pedals, instrument panel, control column, seat - all of which usable. And a "cockpit roll bar" which no matter which way I turned it - couldn't fathom what they LH! had in mind. Besides which the supplied roll bar work out about a scale 3" (75mm) rectangular section. So binned that and replaced with a stretched sprue construction to match photos in the beaut Ceres book. Note my style of modelling is only to bother with detail that CAN be seen - so I have not replicated the entire fuselage framing, and have simplified other bits. Certainly respect those who go for the full detail - just not something I prioritise.... Anyway - below is an early dry fit of the fuselage halves. You can already see how little you can see inside the cockpit. Fit is 'very good' by cottage resin standards. Incidentally, I followed up on Derek_B's comments about Aircast Resin (per post below) In checking out AirCast Resin - the entire packaging of this kit looks like many other AirCast Resin kits (apart from the LiftHere! branding). Which makes me think that the other kits in the AirCast Resin's catalogue must be equally delightful. LOT's of civilian 1/72 aircraft. I'll be exploring this further... So charging ahead, fuselage has been glued together - using sparingly applied 2 part 5 minute epoxy glue. Waited 6 minutes and cleaned up glue residue and wet sanded with 800 grade. Then applied a bead of Milliput to the the join lines result of which you can see below. Not much putty required - that'll be more apparent once i sand off the excess. Insides were painted silver, with (non visible) extremities painted in black to ensure they remained non-visible. Instrument panel in black and picking out of detail on the cockpit sides. Detail is fairly basic - but still more than you get in many of the older (but still stocked) 1/72 kits. And per above - commensurate with 'what you can see'. And the underside... There's a rather odd 2mm gap between the wing trailing edge and the fuse. Had to go hunting through Derek's book to work out what was going on - but have filled it with a filet of styrene strip. No big deal - the instructions are of little help by the way. Apart from every part being named (which is 90% of the solution), there is NO indication of placement. Which means having great reference is essential... Below is a pic of the glued fuse sitting on the wing (dry fit). You should get a bit of a sense that the parts fit is VERY GOOD - and minimal putty/surgery is going to be required. Also of note is the tailplane which rather than a butt joint - has some handy little tab recesses. That will indeed be handy for getting a strong/positive joint. Also- I have settled on a colour scheme (so many tempting schemes to choose from!). The kit comes with very nice decals for VH-SSZ in a nice silver and dayglo scheme - but a few people have done that, and I like doing something different. Earlier in the life of VH-SSZ (1960) she had a 3 month contract with Shell Chemical (Aust) who were providing an Aerial Spraying Service in Western Australia - spraying lots of goodies in the Shell product range. Rather conveniently - this is a Ceres-B (single seater) which means no surgery is required for the kit (and also why I've pushed ahead with the interior detailing and fuse gluing. Photo below is via Geoff Goodall - silver overall with Shell branding and wingtips, fin/rudder tip etc probably in Dayglo (although I might exercise some artistic license and go for "Shell Yellow" given Shell forked over all the money for branding). I've explored whether the fuse underside is actually 'black' but consensus is that this is a poor contrast photo (ie was only in this scheme for ~3 months - hardly had time to weather...) Next steps: - sand the fuse - glue the wings on and blend in - glue the tailplane on and blend. - engine and cowl.... This kit will be through to paint fairly quickly. Rather looking forward to that - and the decals (home printed) should give it quite a Lift! And for dcrfan I've actually done a 1/48 Ceres. This one was a Sierra hobbies conversion of a Monogram Texan into a Wirraway - THEN converted into a Ceres! The Special Hobby route should be MUCH easier - go on, make a start!
  6. [Posting on behalf of Alan Flett - who has not as yet resolved his Britmodeller access. Photos are copyright Alan Flett per watermark. Alan is well known in Australian Aviation History circles for his prolific photographic record of Australian aviation since the ~1960's - much of which in company with his father] Alan: "these photos were taken 48 years ago with the specific but unrealised intention of making a model of the Ceres because no model company was ever likely to make a kit of it! They might however now be useful for ‘anyone’ who might want to modify some possible future kit into a two seater?"
  7. Beautiful work on the cockpit! I like your new blue/green colour mix.
  8. That looks fantastic! A proper bit of old school modelling! Nice scheme and like the metal cowl! Managed to track that one down. Will take a look. Yes, nice to see them being preserved (vs converted back to 1:1 Wirraways, which as been the fate of some..). Plenty of reference pix in Derek's book so am pretty good for reference thanks! Agree Steve, they're not a cheap kit. But quality is certainly there. My usual scale is 1/48 but happy to be swayed with something like this....
  9. Time for a new build. Cropdusting in the 1950's in Australia (& NZ) largely consisted of ex military aircraft - lots of Tiger Moths, and conversion of others such as the CAC Wackett (into the Cropmaster), and the CAC Wirraway (into the Ceres). The Ceres, whilst based on Wirraway 'bits' had a myriad of changes - all aimed to improve low and slow performance. New wing centre section and longer wings, leading edge slat, larger slotted flaps, new hopper and higher mounted cockpit position. Etc! As a taster - here's a Geoff Goodall image of a Ceres in operation on a fishlings drop[!] (VH-CEX in Victoria in 1961). From a modelling perspective - there have been a number of kits of the CAC Wirraway across various scales (the Special Hobby 1/48 was a most welcome addition) - and a handful of modellers have undertaken the Ceres conversion. I've previously done a 1/48 conversion. A relatively recent release (2020) is a delicate 1/72 resin kit from Lift Here models of Serbia. Google says it's still available from Aviation Megastore, and I guess other suppliers may have stock. The boxtop looks like this And I HAVE to give a plug to the definitive tome on the Ceres - which is the book from Derek Buckmaster released in 2017. You'll find the book at the URL listed on the box top (top right) - and the book instigated the model. Not often a model company would have THIS sort of reference available for tooling their kit. Note I have no relationship with either Lift Here or Derek (although Derek is known to frequent Britmodeller as @Derek_B ). So what's inside? The main parts are packed in a 'split-sealed' plastic bag - which successfully stops the big bits rattling round with the little bits. - there are TWO vacform canopies provided and what serves as a canopy master providing packing to stop any crushing. - Instructions are simplistic, but sufficient. Every part is clearly identified and named. - and a front 3/4 view of the aircraft indicates positioning of parts. - oh, and a nice set of decals for one colour scheme (per the box art) of VH-SSZ Certainly a case of 'some modelling skills an advantage' for this one - but I've seen worse instructions from mainstream manufacturers. Below is a closer shot of the main fuse and (single piece) wing - very delicate detailing - fine resin moulding - fuse resin is as thin as you'd see in an injection moulded kit (and light in weight accordingly). - there's not a pin hole in sight. The dots you can see around the nose are the fasteners for various panels - wings are single piece but have a beautifully sharp trailing edge (better than you get from many an injection moulded kit) - and everything matches the plans in Derek's book impeccably. This is going to be fun... First task is a bath in strong dishwashing detergent. It's recommended in the instructions and an early dry fit with tamiya tape (which wouldn't stick!) proved there was some mould release agent that needed releasing... And here are the parts laid out more carefully. Everything looks entirely usable. The only things I might look at replacing are top right which includes - rollover framing for cockpit. - instrument panel and tailwheel - rudder pedals, shock absorbers etc. It's all there... That'll do for an introduction. - I haven't settled on a colour scheme yet (might well be some surgery involved if I decide on the 2-seater version). - there are some really nice schemes on this from operations in Australia and NZ. - and there's a couple in museums, and one or two still flying.
  10. A great outcome from the vacforming! Hope the buck frees up in due course - can always send in the trained termites if needs be. The dry fitted fuselage is looking sooo good - already looks just like a rear Auster! Have you decided what medium you will use for vacforming the transparencies? I've recently switched to 0.75mm PETG (from my usual 0.75mm Butyrate)
  11. A good recommendation - the world needs more (built) Auster kits!! Actually, I'm keeping a sharp eye out for your ad on marketplace for "1 x Sword 1/48 MkIII Auster kit - missing only a few parts"
  12. Beautiful precision work - really coming together now. Good to see some remnant parts from Sword donor serving their intended purpose,
  13. I do like the Pilatus Porter - and agree the Roden kit is a bit 'tricky'. Will be following your build with interest.
  14. Thank you! Re the courage. If it helps - the vacform kit only cost me $AU12 2nd hand (about 10% of a Classic Airframes 2nd hand these days?). This meant I really had very little to lose by having a go - nothing ventured, nothing gained? I think I'd have far more trepidation tackling a Classic Airframes Hudson given street value. Am sure the Airfix 1/48 Hudson will be cheaper and cheerfuller when released!
  15. Thanks Zephyr! Surely yes from Airfix. I'd even buy one despite having done this (after all that was the point of doing it!) Oh dear! Does Airfix read Rumourmonger? There'll be a fall scale investigation on who 'leaked' the top secret 2023 project???
  16. Thank you! For the front glasshouse - I actually used a set of aftermarket 1/72 Hudson masks as a template - scaled up to 1/48 and manually traced. Needed a bit of fettling but they were 90% right first go. The other technique I've used is to apply a sheet of wide masking tape over target area - mark up the required shape(s) with eg a marking pen, or mark out with 1mm tape (in contrasting colour) - digitally scan the result and use that to manually trace/prep in Silhouette. Hope that makes sense! Ha! Luckily the deprived children are now in their 20's and moved out - and possession (of said Lego) is 9/10's of the law? Most of it was actually picked up at garage sales years ago - and luckily with those large size base plates.
  17. Calling this one done. - glued on all the fiddly bits. - aerials - a bit of light weathering Quite enjoyed this one - the base kit is pretty basic and required a bit of patience and a bit of experience. Lots of new techniques learned and applied on this one - which is what it's often about. I have intentionally not gone overboard in trying to transform it into the most accurate/detailed masterpiece. So haven't dropped the flaps, opened doors, or reset control surfaces etc. Happy that it'll sit nicely on the shelf. Thanks for following along... Oh - you remember right when I started, the comment a project such as this is pretty much guaranteed to generate a new tool injection moulded kit? Well a little bit of photoshop has helped produce the mock-up below. In a series of tasty schemes (thanks to http://www.adastra.adastron.com/aircraft/hudson/hudson.htm for these!) JUST KIDDING!!!! But will come back with a 'told you so' when it comes to fruition.
  18. Looking great! You must have been worried after that first coat - looked like a failed cookie [a borrowed description once used to describe a Unicraft kit] - but she's scrubbed up well. You're probably onto it - but using 400/600/800 wet and dry (sanded wet) will take more off the putty than the brass, which should leave you a nice vaguely scalloped effect between the ribs. A grey primer (eg Tamiya or Mr.Surfacer rattlecan) will fill out fine imperfections.
  19. More progress. Here's the masks cut using Oramask 810 and the Silhouette Cameo. Background material has been removed.... Lettering is for the fatso white outline... And picked up using 'transfer film' and applied to the model. The background coat looks a bit grey, but it's actually white. Blame the lighting... Masking on - ready for some top coat Not forgetting to mask off the white fuselage top and white empennage. Top coat is a rich teal/turquoise colour... And then mask fo the black antiglare nose, and a wafer thin pin stripe between the white top and teal bottom... Am using the Valleja rattlecan flat black for this - marvellous stuff (although some reviews suggest it doesn't take well to being masked - but since I'm not going to mask it....) And the reveal! One of the most enjoyable parts of the build for me. When it works of course. And very, very happy with the way this one has worked.. Without the mask cutter - there's no way I could have done all those cabin windows with their evenly rounded corners. Let alone the complex compound curves around the nose windows. And the shadowed lettering. A bit of a learning curve with the mask cutter - but well worth the effort (and it'll be easier again next time). So as flagged in earlier post - I've elected to go the home made decal route for doing the black part of the shadowed lettering. Here we see the laser printed decals ready to cut out and apply. This has basically all been done with the aid of MS Powerpoint and an off the shelf laser printer - ie no fancy software required. Here we go.... And a bit more. Really enjoying this build. Whilst it's a very 'cottage' (and cheap) Contrail vacform kit as the basis - she's scrubbing up nicely in my view. Missing some of the finer detail you'd expect of a 'modern' kit but not trying to be perfect (vs enjoying it). Next steps. - undercarriage. - cowls, exhaust etc. - aerials (quite a few of them!) - weathering (subtle and light - no need to get carried away)
  20. What putty are you using for the fuse Matt? My default for 'large gaps' is Milliput Fine White - but looks like you have an alternate solution.
  21. That looks like so much fun Matt (in a good way). I'm sure it will come together beautifully with a few more hours work. Following with interest.
  22. Sorry - GA = General Aviation = civil aviation (ie as opposed to Military gliders)
  23. Following with interest. Have a few fire bomber projects either complete, WIP, or planned.
  24. Nice work. Not many GA gliders available in kit form.
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