Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by ianwau

  1. Progress has been slow - but a bit of a milestone today - finally masked the cockpit and proceeded to undercoat. Step one, given the absence of any canopy framing lines - was to create a 'positive' mask (vs negative?). ie apply masking lines where you KNOW you want canopy framing to go. the advantage of this is that you can quickly check the symmetry of what you're doing and make minor adjustments without actually having to commit the mask. I am using Tamiya tape - cut to the required dimensions of the canopy frame.. Then (obviously) fill in the gaps with the ACTUAL mas
  2. Hi Colin, thanks for the compliments - and good luck with your own build. I see Zac has supplied you with some great reference pix. Which I'd vouch for - they're very much the design (and I think the exact photos!) I used for mine. Cheers, Ian
  3. It sits on the nose wheel - by the skin of its teeth. A little trick required - the (superglued) wheel chocks have effectively moved the pivot point back about 3mm which is sufficient to bring the nose back to earth. PLENTY of lead in the nose, fuse thinned - but so much weight in the solid resin tail surfaces...
  4. Progress continues - blending in the wing/fuse join. Adding lumps and bumps. The latest milestone has been fitting the main undercarriage - heavily spatted, heavily engineered in 1:1 . And then the big test - will it be a tailsitter?? There's a LOT of plastic behind the pivot point..... Ha! Yes! There's no shortage of space to put lead in the nose - so have not skimped. The flaps/Ailerons have been scratched - but are not shown here. Next step - getting to the point where I'm going to mask off the canopy - that'll be a significant step in making it look li
  5. Excellent reference photos thank you! The under side shots in particular. Cheers.
  6. Some more progress - engraving of panel lines, cleaning up of front end, fitting/blending fillets for the tail. And sorting out a robust tab system to join the front fuse section to the rear fuse section - which you can see in the pic below.. And then back to the lego jig yard for aligning and gluing the fore/aft sections. With some assist again from the Lego LAME's Have also scratchbuilt the flaps and ailerons which will be a late fitment after paint. Next steps are blending this new join, then onto undercarriage, vents, intakes etc. This photo below of G-NRDC is
  7. A bit more progress on the Fieldmaster. 'Canopy' has been fixed to the bottom half of the fuse and first coat of Milliput to blend. The tail assembly was fixed beforehand as I wanted to ensure the cockpit interior was fully sealed before wet sanding etc. Have then moved onto wings. Have 'tabbed' each wing root to assist with fixing - and also manufactured a styrene spar with the correct dihedral. Then a bit of a dry fit to make sure it goes together as the manufacturer intended. Happy with that. The wings look like they have a really narrow chord - but the flaps
  8. The skeleton frame is sheet styrene and the filler is standard 2-pack panel repair 'bog' from the auto spares shops (ie a golf ball of filler with a pea of hardener). This filler is 25% styrene and when hard is easily carved/sanded etc. Usually takes about 4 putty runs to get it to mouldable state - but it goes off in <30 mins so pretty quick...
  9. Enjoying the build story. Have one of these in early days of construction (without the mods) and lots of great pointers on the build. I am considering gold for the nose weight as its denser than lead - and main u/c needs a similar solution to yours. Thanks!
  10. Starting to make some headway on a scratchbuild of the Norman Fieldmaster in 1/48 scale. Started off with the framing for the fuselage buck... Then the buck almost ready for vacforming. Shown alongside the Valom 1/48 Britten Norman Island for a size comparison... Then after vacforming. Split into front and rear sections for size practicalities. Front fuse moulded left/right halves per convention. Rear fuse moulded top/bottom - which is going to assist with building the interior as we see later... Then here' s the tail in a jig - with
  11. Gaz - are you on the "Fletcher FU24 & PAC Cresco Fans" Facebook group? Lot's of Kiwis there and you'll get a bit more of an idea of the kit K5054NZ up above has a production line going of the 1:72 version. Below is what comes in the 1:48 kit and this is after I have cleaned it up a bit (click on the photo and you'll go to a Flickr album of the build)
  12. Yes - stern words were required from time to time. I sort of knew what I was in for upon box opening - I took out at least a third of the fuselage resin (I weighed it before/after) from the inside with an angle grinder - ie a full on tradies power tool. Needed to make room for cockpit interior, lead in the nose and to get rid of excess weight behind CofG.
  13. Shhhhh. Artistic license - forgot to cut the hole and didn't relish dust all through the cockpit.
  14. Finally managed to get this one done (or my version of done). It's a resin kit from Unicraft where 'some modelling skills are an advantage'. Decals are from Oldmodeldecals.com in NZ (who have plenty of other schemes for this A/C).
  15. And being cooped up for some reason - has allowed me to get this one progressed through to completion Will post more to RFI...
  16. This has been progressing along a little slowly - but some more visible progress over the last week or 2 for some reason. Here she is for scale comparison alongside a Work-in-progress CAC Ceres (a conversion of the CAC Wirraway which itself was the prodigy of the North American NA-16). And a beaut set of Wanganui Air Works decals from NZ decalmaker OldModelDecals I decided to mould a new canopy - as the kit canopy was just too bulbous for my liking. The mould is my original master for my scratchbuilt FU24 - and the vacform set up is distinctly home grown. Sandwiched
  17. The wheels are from the 'spares box' - accumulated after a few decades of modelling. Note the finished model is posted on Ready for Inspection must be back in Oct or Nov? Cheers.
  18. Some visible progress..... And a bit of work behind the scenes. - fuselage halves have been thinned out - particularly in the cockpit area. Around half the kit resin has been removed using (wait for it) - an angle grinder! Carefully wielded and with appropriate safety gear of course! - weight added to nose, plenty of it, including some lead under the seat. Don't want a tail sitter here. - fuselage superglued together and cleaned up - cockpit bulkhead and floor added - happy with the way this has turned out. - wings joined on with the aid of 2 x brass tube spars - sh
  19. Hi Eugenio, - yes please that'd be useful to have another perspective. The nacelle transplant is now complete - with the wings currently in a stable condition in the recovery room. The plastic surgery required a marathon 6 hour operation under anaesthetic.
  20. And thanks Zac for not only having the initiative - but also seeing it thru to execution! I do think this is going to come together rather nicely. Resin quality looks/feels good and much better than I gather their earlier work.
  21. Ahhh yes indeed. Still it makes for relatively cheap modelling when you look at the hours put into it vs kit-slamming the latest exquisite [insert brand]. Thanks for the tip-off on the box spar (which I was too late to execute on the Piaggio P166 scratch). It's worked a treat on the Viscount wing.
  22. About 25 years ago - I scratchbuilt a 1:48 Fletcher FU24 (pic below). Scratchbuilding is an almost certain guarantee that the subject will be be released as an injection moulded kit within a matter of years. This subject has been somewhat resilient though - but we do now have a 1/48 scale RESIN kit from prolific Ukraine manufacture Unicraft (Igor Shestakov). Unicraft specialise in models of obscure aircraft (just google them) mostly in 1/72. They fall into the cottage industry end of the spectrum (ie "some modelling skills an advantage") - and are not recommended as the first kit t
  23. I've had in the collection for some years the Mach 2 Vickers Viscount 700 kit - a manufacturer who produces some rather interesting subjects (ie Mach 2). This is one of their better efforts in my view with nice detail, generally accurate lines (but see below) and the opportunity for some great colour schemes. The usual research has been done before starting - including build reviews etc from other modellers. A number of reviewers/builders have commented that there is something that is 'not quite right' with the finished model and I have formed a view as to what that might be. Fo
  24. Ahhh - so diplomatic - but I'd rather a failed cookie than going hungry? This one is actually a good kick start for anyone keen on the subject - external surfaces are clean, basic shape looks good. Will draw on the modelling skills though (like a sponge). Maybe I should post a bit of a 'build' on this one?
  25. Now have the 1/48 kit. It has plenty of potential - although will certainly be a bit of work. Yes - cargo doors on both sides (easily fixed once glued and puttied), oh and the undercarriage is supplied with retractable wheel wells. Again - easily fixed. Plenty of decal options via OldModel decals in NZ for this iconic cropduster (topdresser!). (postscript - I scratchbuilt one of these about 20 years ago. Always room for another though...)
  • Create New...