Jump to content

Steve D

Gold Member
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Steve D

  1. I guess the slope probably makes it easier to manage the different rise and fall of the dinghy vs the boat. Cheers Steve
  2. I agree those are not explosive buoys, too small and why place them on the engine room casing roof? They probably are danbuoys but I don't have any information on Kriegsmarine danbuoys. I have this image which I'm guessing shows danbuoys But looking at this image makes it more puzzling still These things seem to be hooked on to the upper rail, perhaps the danbuoys came in a packed from with the rods separate for ease of handling and were assembled before use. They are very ungainly to have stored on deck otherwise. Anyone have any thoughts on this or illustrations? Cheers and thanks again for the interest in my little puzzle Steve
  3. Thanks Jochen, it is the right size from what I can see. Below one added to the drawing and a photo, looks right to me Not sure what else they could be.. I wonder what colour they were. any idea? Cheers Steve
  4. I copy of German Warships 1815-1945 Vol 2 by Erich Gröner arrived yesterday, This contains small (I mean tiny) line drawings of every German vessel type including the R25 class. This clarified that in the R25 class, there were 7 sub-types It turns out, the one I'm drawing is the 1940 subtype, R151-158, with three rudders and various other very minor details. Using that tiny drawing, I was able to tidy up the positioning of various details (deck hatches, bow gun etc) and I'm now very happy with the position of all major elements. So much lined up perfectly that this cannot be random, I'm sure I'm homing in on a pretty accurate drawing. These vessels were designed to carry 10 mines when not sweeping. Taking the drawing of the EMC mine I used for the S-boot, I was able to draw the mine rails and with a 3 degree inward taper towards the bow, they fit perfectly with the sweep winch, stern roller assembly and machinery access hatches. That again gives me confidence that the extent of the steel rear deck I've assumed is also good. Most of the deck is planked, but the stern section behind the 2cm gun is steel This exercise is like doing a jigsaw with lots of missing pieces, trying to make stuff align with photographs and logical equipment positioning. I feel I'm on the home straight now Below is a sneak peek of where my GA has got to, still very much work in progress, but hopefully it provides some idea of the challenge. There will be 4 sheets in total, GA, Lines, Frame cutting sheet, and equipment detail. I'd underestimated how much work this actually is, I salute the late John Lambert, he was a star Cheers Steve
  5. I do know about heat shunts Stuart, but its a good point to mention, thanks. The drawing pins I hold stuff down with often cover existing joints and perform a similar function. However, for this mount, I found it hard enough to just hold these 3D constructions together without also considering drawing heat way from existing soldered joints. Still, it came together in the end Cheers Steve
  6. Not that I've found, actually I think the chair was rocked back slightly (I may amend the model now that you've pointed this out ) There are not that many pictures of this mount on-line or in books, but I did find this one in the IWM archive which is quite cool Cheers Steve
  7. After much struggling tiny moving parts that would not behave, I've sorted the twin Oerlikon mount... This one, I came close to giving up on I can tell you. Those tiny bits kept managing to get themselves lost, or come apart when not told to, my dislike of inanimate objects increased once more It starts with the rocker assembly that holds the gun-sight and moves when the gun is elevated. This rocker assembly is two etched parts soldered together with packers and the sight holder Not sure this shot helps really This is then assembled to the top of the mount with an actuation arm attached to a lever on the mount main hinge At this point, I stopped taking pictures, partly because I was too grumpy with it all and also because the pieces were too small to focus on (see the tiny arm to the left of the pencil next to the spare rocker). When will I learn to etch multiple copies of small parts that need soldering . Some time later...... Notice the second actuation arm that runs from the torque tube at the base of the mount to the gun cradle. This is what elevates the gun and caused more hair loss, I've not got much left to lose. These arms pivot on 0.5 mm brass wire in 1mm tubes, all too small really... Also note the 3d printed seat (lazy) and the adjustable foot rest. What is missing is the actual control box which sits inside the gunner's enclosure. I'm debating whether its worth including (I probably will, just not in the mood now) Couple of other views, check out the shackles on the mast The cast guns are removable still as I want to paint them separately so they are just resting in place, will be adjusted a little when fixed in place It is the weirdest looking gun mount ever, glad that's behind me. Normally, I build guns able to elevate, and I intended to this time, but those multiple joints just defeated me, if I'd not started gluing, I'd have never got it together.. On to the 2pdr.... Cheers Steve
  8. That sounds like a feasible plan Tom, the lines clearly come from the same design office, having drawn the E-boote myself I can see the family resemblance. I'm puzzled there is no R-boote models available (well above 1/700 scale which is just a waterline block with some other blocks on it). Brass is easy, you should see what a mess I make in plastic... Cheers Steve
  9. Wasn't able to get in the workshop today to finish the Oerlikon mount, but I did get some drawing work in. This is my attempt at the Kriegsmarine DC and chute assembly as fitted to the R-boote, as example of the detail I'm going to on the whole drawing set. It is based on various drawings and pictures so like most of this vessel, it contains a degree of conjecture but I'm confident of the size My aim for the drawing set is for it to be in sufficient detail that it needs no further references to model.. The beauty of drawing everything in this way is that my etching artwork will be really fast as I will already have all the heavy lifting done and in CAD. Similarly, the 3D printing design work can be simply scaled off, saving loads of time The drawings will take some time to complete, but if there is interest, I easily produce copies in 1:72nd scale in addition to the right scale (1:48th of course ) Cheers Steve
  10. Personally, while I have a couple of soldering irons, I mostly use an Oxy-Propane torch with a mico flame nozzle, soldering irons won't go near the temperatures needed for silver-soldering and once you get used to using the heat, it's 10x faster than a soldering iron on soft solder or paste.... Still I agree with all the above, clean surfaces, use flux, heat from the side you want to draw the solder towards and make sure the items are touching as it's very hard to make solder jump a gap. Also as Jon says, the challenge is not the actual soldering which should take seconds, it's the holding items ready to solder. As you can see I'm my images, I tend to use drawing pins to get it all ready. For small scratch components (wire tube etc) I cut long, solder and them trim back with a micro drill and cutting disks or sanding wheels. So much easier. The other thing I have is have a spray water bottle ready to cool the work before touching. For soft solder, enough heat can be retained (especially is one side is a heavy turned part) for the joint to still be mobile and moving stuff early (I'm always impatient) ruins the joint Cheers Steve
  11. It's always a bit rough at this stage Kev, but I wanted to show more of the process (which is quite haphazard). Hopefully I can get the rest together tomorrow and do more clean-up so it will look more complete and tidy Thanks for the kind comment Cheers Steve
  12. The guns and more soldering won.. First, I made the ladder that is stowed on the starboard side of the deckhouse. Note is has the weathered bashed look of a ladder with some service It's a skill.... The the twin Oerlikon mount. Mmmm.. this is a new venture for me and they don't always go the way I intended, in particular in the months since I did the etch artwork, I'd completely forgotten what I intended These are the parts including that beautiful cast barrel assembly This sits in the cradle and is raised up from the cradle floor with those two rectangular pieces to the left. Well, not enough it turns out, over 1mm short but come micro channel sorted that... The 0.8mm rod runs through the whole assembly and the cradle bocks on the mount, though there are a couple of turned spacers to insert later to centre it correctly Then the base drum was made up seen to the left in this picture and the upper base piece folded ready for the sides which were cleaned up The sides hold the upper base to the base drum which sits on the centre pivot on the tub. Each side is in two parts for thickness, the centre side also has a small lower plate to support the inside face of the cover plate And here it is resting in place after some tense soldering that unsoldered as much as it re-soldered, sigh... Not great pictures sorry. Tomorrow I'll attempt the sighting and elevating mechanism plus add the seat and foot rest. Then once I'm happy I'll post some better pictures. Anyway,, I'm sure I can make this work, big relief Love that cast gun... Cheers Steve
  13. Only one picture today, after a failed attempt to make the dust-bin ladder from scratch (it looked horrible...) I found an old spare etched ladder that I was able to adapt to fit, this is OK very prominent feature, quite tricky to make, moving on.... Cheers Steve
  14. The mast was timber, from the drawing, 6 inches diameter at its base, tapering to 4.5 inches at the top, so my mast is true scale. The upper mast was also timber but it would be too easily damaged modelled wood so I've made it from brass Check out this picture, you can see it's actually quite chunky Cheers Steve
  15. Thanks guys, your consideration is always so much appreciated. The challenge with 1:48th scale is that it is the smallest scale where is is almost possible to build true scale if you use brass, (for instance a 1 inch grab rail is ~0.5 mm diameter), and so the temptation is too great not to. Accordingly, that aerial is horribly fragile, even though soldered, as you can see one of the pieces already fell off and needs re-soldering... How you guys work at smaller scales simply baffles me, my clumsy fingers barely work at this scale these days. One the other hand, 1/35th scale seems so big to me that the guns aught to fire and the level of detail needed becomes ridiculous (components could actually be bolted together and so you know where I would end up going ...) I have a few shackles and eye bolts to make (rigging has to start somewhere) and then I have a decision, start the guns or start the primer Watch this space.... Cheers Steve
  16. Sorry, having so much fun with the Räumboot drawing, I've neglected this build a bit. Really, I'm thinking through when to start priming the model, normally I would have it in primer by now, but this time I decided to do as much construction as I could before paint. So, I've been a little stuck on what to make, the guns are later, so I've been filling in on odd stuff. In particular the mast and the IFF aerial. The main mast was sanded to a taper from 1/8 inch lime. I did this in the lathe with a sleeve in the end-stock. This works OK , it tapers down to 2.4 mm (3/32nd inch). The mast has an upper spar holding the Type 286 aerial which is quite a fiddly assembly. Lots of silver-soldering tube to wire. Here is a not very good shot of the first trial fit (notice one of the small transvers wires has come adrift, needs fixing back). There is a lower yard to add but this will be in wood and fixed with rigging, not part of the assembly. The flag gaff is hinged to a mast band and the claxon sits on a platform on the lowest band. 36 pieces of brass in total Better shot also showing the IFF more clearly and the grab rails fitted to the top of the deck house This shot also shows the wind-screen frame quite well, smoothed in with a little filler. The third band up has two side rings to support the shackles that will anchor the stays (just visible) Side ladder to the open bridge (called the dustbin apparently) next. he rear ladders were etched so no work, but this ladder is a very prominent feature and needs to be made up from wire Cheers Steve
  17. Blxxdy nice rudders Dmitriy. (just trying help...) Steve
  18. Interesting, I can make finer but the mechanism helps. Thx
  19. Ha, randomly, I just found this cool picture of R238 in Norway, Cheers Steve
  20. Thanks, that's better than everything else I have. R41 from War Thunder (I hate to trust such a source but other details on the model do align with sources I can trust...) has these chutes in close-up, as ever, we make do with what we can find and compare, Should be enough at this scale Cheers Steve
  21. For information, this is what I do have And on an S-boat stern rack... Cheers Steve
  22. Well, they certainly have that appearance, perhaps the German's had an equivalent pillar-mounted LMG, something more to investigate Cheers Steve
  • Create New...