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Steve D

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Everything posted by Steve D

  1. Frustrating that I can't remember the reference I read which clearly stated the SGB's were given a special scheme, still glad people are confident re the blue tones Cheers Steve
  2. Hi Jon, I can't get my head around these tiny scales I'm afraid, but please check out my build and RFI threads for Grey Fox for additional detail @ 1:48th scale. Like you I opted for greys but later read (I can't recall where) that the SGN's were given their own special colour scheme of greens and this seems to be born out by Malcolm Wright in his book on WW2 Warship Camouflage However, your scheme certainly aligns well with this painting of Grey Goose So, as ever, who really knows. I just thought I'd bring up the green option for anyone else considering this subject, if I known, I would have opted for that unusual scheme Great little model. If you need any information, I did a ton of research and have dozens of pictures and drawings, always happy to help Cheers Steve
  3. Thanks Pascal, that was my hope to help others in this branch of marine modelling. I'm in awe of your CAD work btw Thanks Stuart, I think you will approve, it will be a British Power Boat MGB, modelled before they added torpedo tubes. The drawings are well underway, thread should start next week
  4. Cheers Jeff, appreciate the clarification on the rope coils. In my defence (I do like a well coiled rope) as it will be mounted on pillars, no one can say whether its underway or in harbour... Thanks Paul, I bumble along for my own amusement and the challenge, rewarding to see my efforts are appreciated by this community
  5. Thanks, crew on shore-leave until the RFI post That's exactly what this is about Jack, inspiring people to leave kits (and plastic) behind and go back to old-school modelling. OK, with some help these days from 3D printers before anyone points out how much I cheat these days
  6. From what I know, they just lay on the deck, wet rope is actually really heavy and hard to shift. I also know that rope can get washed overboard... However, the coiled ropes you see in pictures are (I believe) mostly done in harbour to prevent people tripping and (possibly) to show off Thanks for your vocal interest through the build Cheers Steve
  7. All things come to an end, as so does this thread. The model is basically complete now, just the figure to add and that will be shown in the RFI thread shortly. Meanwhile, the final update. First the hand-painted ensign, hanging to dry after soaking in weak PVA to set the shape. The little hand-vice is prefect for gripping and adding weight to the bottom corner. This is a 2ft x 4ft ensign, the smallest I've painted, my new 7 inch magnifying lamp was very useful here Here it is on the short gaff (right term?) at the mast-head bit out of focus The aerials were made from heavy EZ line, with insulators at each end from fishing line shot weights. Important to feed the aerial down to the radio set. The handrails were run from satin silver "Soft Touch" very fine premium flex 7 stranded wire (0.010" dia.). Anchored using 0.8mm thin wall brass tube squashed and painted aluminium. A couple of buckets are seen on the deck along with a few rope coils (can't have too much rope). Nestling behind on of the midships cowl vents is the Vickers twin tub gun canvas cover, folded up. The sea ladder is left in the top Carley float and of course that Dan-buoy with its rigging is stowed on the port stern deck. Algae is growing on the waterline and a hint of diagonal planking is discernible on the hull sides The boat hooks are in the forecastle rack and some rope stands by the anchor, the Lewis guns are ready to fire, but someone's coiled the mooring ropes nicely fore and aft Overall, she needs a good wash down when time and the war permits Thanks for following alone once again, I hope it was helpful to any wishing to embark on wood and metal construction. Apart from a few links of chain, this one is all scratch built for a total cost around £250, plus the case of course It will be back is a RFI thread once I've sorted the case and mounting. I will be back shortly with a companion thread on a British Powerboat Company 70ft MGB (before torpedo tubes were added). Gives me a chance to made a twin Oelikon turret mounting Cheers Steve
  8. First class job Enjoy the skiing Cheers Steve
  9. Happy with this level of weathering (finally!!) One coat of matt varnish, new decals (the others were sanded off) and a lot of fussy work that can't be seen on this picture. Flag, rigging, aerials and some deck clutter (rope, buckets etc) to go, plus my single crewman to help people understand the scale. Out picking up the case tomorrow so not much time for progress, final update with more pictures on Friday Thanks for following along Cheers Steve
  10. I agree the surface is not there yet, Barrage balloons had a smoother shinier surface I think, vs this picture I wouldn't be afraid to try a little metallic aluminium, it may help Difficult subject Rob, coming together very nicely Cheers Steve
  11. I'm still considering the paint and weathering so I'd thought I'd finish off the danbuoy. This picture clearly shows danbuoys being shipped on the port side of the rear deck, a detail too good to miss out I decided to paint it according to this image (I believe this is a flower class escort), great colour scheme, For colours I found a picture of a WW2 danbuoy flag in an on-line auction that was white/yellow/red stripes so I'm guessing these are the colours in this B&W photo For rigging I used this illustration for an admiralty manual of seamanship Vol 1, this copy is post-war and the paint pattern is different, but the rigging makes sense and matches what can be seen in the picture above They were carried ready rigged for immediate use as close examination of the first picture shows. So, here is my attempt and reproduction, the rope will be coiled up and tidy when installed on deck but I left it open here to show I've rigged it correctly (flag and anchor not attached) I love these little details Cheers Steve
  12. Ha, Dirk, you are correct of course . However, that's just an accident of the way I twisted the wheel (possibly because I'm also left-handed....) Didn't think it through I appreciate your clarification, I'll do better in future Cheers Steve
  13. Rob, It's nice of you to say so, but trust me, up close it was not good enough. I hate painting, not enough practice. I'm never really happy with the end result, but this one was too bad for me to stand. The pictures flattered it. I will plough on once I can get back to it and hopefully find a compromise feels OK. I keep saying, the model has to have a sense of realism, hard to describe but I know you and others here know what I mean. This is a sense you get when looking at the model and it should get better the closer you look, even to the point of using a magnifying glass. We can agree on that point Dmitiry, I HATE knots, minimum rigging is an essential prerequisite for me in a choice of subject Cheers Steve
  14. It's looking very nice Rob, well done, those bulwarks look like a real nightmare. If I may correct your point, the ships boats hulls which I produce in tissue paper on a mould go down to 5 cm (and could be smaller) using balsa between frames quite successfully. The other point on taking a tissue shell off a mould is that you can produce many very quickly once you have the mould so a fleet of trawlers is within reach. 6-8 layers of tissue soaked in weak pva make a very strong shell that can include the bulwarks and is easy to sand. As ever I unapologetically lead the charge re using more traditional materials Cheers Steve
  15. What can I say, you have to try it to understand. Watch YouTube videos and it all looks so smooth and simple. Trust me, it is tricky but worth the time. The counter twist on the threads create a balance of twist in the rope. When you stop turning the wheels, they say in harmony and do not unwind as they are balanced. The challenge is to get the tension to move the guide block backwards... Oh sh*t I'm probably making things worse not better... No one taught me, I just had a go and failed a lot,....
  16. In case anyone is wondering where this thread has gone, I decided the weathering was too much so I've sanded the hull back (which actually looks better sort of...) and will repaint and re-weather it. While I consider all this, I've been building a model garage for my grandson....fun little project Meanwhile, the scene shifts to the garage where I have a woodwork shop and a nice long bench. At the start of this thread, I promised some rope making, here is my old ropewalk I made 20 years ago and have not used for over 10 years... The winding mechanism allows both 3 and 4 strand double line rope passing through the travelling guide head (that keeps the lines separate). I printed this one years ago to replace the original wooden one The thread is tied to one hook, run out and back 6 times (for 3 double strands) and then tied off to the same hook. Having a single looped line makes tension management easier. The travelling anchor allows the rope to get shorter as it twists, the line then runs to a ;pully and over to a weight (really bad picture, sorry). The weight here is just a bolt, adding nuts allows my to vary the tension in the line Tension is EVERYTHING in ropemaking and there are no rules I know of, just plenty of trial and error. Each length takes ~ 10 minute to twist until it seems ready to wind into rope. This shot shows a length beginning to move. When it decided to go, it should move the travelling guide all on its own if the tension is right After 3 hours of trying various line thicknesses and tensions and nearly reverting to drink before lunch, I managed to get the hang of it all again. In the end, for this scale, the thinnest cotton thread I have worked best, getting it wound to the point that the double lines just start to kink and then hand working the tension by moving the travelling anchor backwards and forwards gently to encourage the guide back towards the winding mechanism, I was able to make a couple of decent lengths of 6 strand rope 0.5mm diameter Nothing you can buy looks like true rope on a model, here is a coil ready to mount on the deck. Working with rope not string, you immediately notice that it lays correctly. I guess no one will notice, but I will know.... Weathering update at the weekend Cheers Steve
  17. Wow David, stunning work...., I'm never going to build and aircraft carrier..... Cheers Steve
  18. Rob, It's a bit late for this build, but what I do in these circumstances is infill the frames with balsa wood (marked to the largest frame each time) and then sand that back to the frames. This is quick and easy, the filler can then be added as a thin layer to finish the job. May be a little easier for next time Cheers Steve
  19. Tiny update, made the anchor and began weathering.... The anchor in brass, flukes were on the etch sheet, the rest just from bits in the workshop. The bolts are 16BA which come up around 0.8mm dia but allow it to articulate. The shackle is 0.8 mm wire soldered to 1.5mm tubing then slotted out. Probably slightly overscale, but I don't care, And here it is on the fore deck. Note, the anchor sits on small metal plates to prevent it damaging the wooden deck and the shaft sides in a short channel, all faithfully included.... Quite a bit of weathering going on, in particular on those anti-slip mats.. General view of the vessel at the end of the day. Weathering splits the crowd I know but to my mind these were warships at war. There would have been time in port to do an amount of maintenance but they were not prepared for a regatta, only patrol and paint would be used sparingly as all resources where precious. So, its going to be quite dirty I'm afraid. The torpedo tube detail is really brought out by the weathering and light and dark highlights Rigging left and a few final details (including post-weathering varnish) and of course one of my signature hand painted ensigns Cheers Steve
  20. Thanks John, its actually quite a simple vessel, nice to see the bits added as you say Welcome back, just in time for the finish line You're very kind, its come together quite fast really Thanks Stuart, they do look right but must have been exhausting to be aboard at speed Simple, I sleep between builds.... Cheers David, there's a little more to come assuming I don't screw up on the weathering, nothing is certain other than my habit of messing things up towards the end....
  21. You could of course test it, but I don't think it would deform for wood
  22. My feelings go to you, I had a similar tragedy with my first scratch build when the varnish reacted with the beautifully completed hull paint job blistering it, a lot of sanding, it was nearly 5 feet long........ Can I suggest that you use a pouring epoxy resin, painted on, 2 coats will do. This will fully seal the hull on the inside and not impact the wood apart from strengthening it Cheers Steve
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