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Steve D

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Everything posted by Steve D

  1. However, I would not cover that hull with fibreglass unless you mean the sort of cloth used for model aircraft. This is the surface you will see, so it has to be fine... If you can get it, perhaps use something like Silkspan. It's much finer, or Japanese tissue. Remember, its only a matrix to hold the epoxy so the finer the better. Certainly whatever you do, experiment first, I've ruined a hull this way in the past Cheers Steve
  2. The horizontal locking bars have to fit in the first frame, that set the width. They needed to be parallel to slide through the frames. When I get to the first couple of frames, I'll need to notch the blocks to slide over the bar. I also notched the lower blocks at the stern to fit over the prop shaft tubes Cheers Steve Wait until you see the diagonal planking in pear-wood
  3. Time to turn these frames into a hull. First, the keel is supported between blocks to keep things straight and the bow gunwale stringers are installed. The gunwale is 2 mm sq but these don't bend enough so the forward stringers are laminated from 2 mm x 0.5 mm limewood The rear stringers are 2mm sq, notched to the first 2 0.5mm stringers, which are then reinforced and build up. Here you can see I've also made a start with the upper deckhouse stringers, the 0.5 mm ply sides and roof will then be set in and the rounded corners sanded back, more later. The forward wheelhouse will be added in ply later Next I cut out the deck in 0.8 mm ply and glued it in place with a lot of tape helping it take up the rather complex shape which drips to the bow. This hull has an undeniable greyhound look to it The deck will be left oversize to provide a landing for the external diagonal planking and then sanded back to that line, here it is very oversize still. Now, the boat is straight but still subject to twisting as it doesn't incorporate a box inner section. This is a problem when it comes to adding the balsa as any slight twist will become locked in and the hull will become rather shapely firewood. So, I cut out two support frames from 12 mm ply and mounted them on my build base, turned the hull upside down and temporarily glued it down with 4 spots of cyno Now I know it can't twist, no matter how ham-fisted I am. The chine stringers were then added, laminating the bow section as with the gunwale. Thank goodness the lines are right, everything lined up nicely for once. Its amazing how tiny errors show when you add longitudinal stringers. I'm really pleased with those curves I little sanding later and the hull is ready for the balsa infill's. The black surface in the background is a wall covering that allows you to stick drawings up with magnets, no more tape tearing drawings for me.... The balsa blocks are cut, shaped and glued in place. Here is the hull with the lower hull filled in and the first rough sanding complete. The laser cut frames have black burnt edges so its easy to see where to sand as the high areas fill with sawdust. I know there are some gaps but I don't care, this is all hidden later and filler will be my friend before planking. The stern section will not be balsa filled. The planes are nearly flat there and so my concern over the inner curvature is not relevant and the prop shafts, rudder tubes etc make this problematic. I'll just plank this area direct to the frames with wide diagonal planks, remember this is the inner hull Start made on the side blocks before family stopped play. These blocks are only a few mm thick, going OK so far is this method cheating?, probably. It is however quick and a much easier way to deal with these complex curves than any other way I know, and I'm hopeless at carving.... Cheers Steve
  4. Pascal, Sorry for the short reply yesterday, I had to go out and didn't have time to study this thread in detail. The drawings are amazing as I would expect from you, stunning work. I have a real interest in guns as you know (though I prefer to make mine in brass) so I now how complex this stuff is to transpose from 2D drawings to 3D, Plus, for printed detail, you need to consider what will actually print as the temptation to be totally accurate can result in unprintable or lost detail. It's an art I'm working on myself so I know how challenging it is Anyway, great work as ever, always a pleasure to watch and this thread is also a valuable archive for the 12 cwt guns, a few pictures there I didn't have Cheers Steve
  5. Thanks Pascal, always nice to see renovations, lest we forget as the saying goes Cheers Steve
  6. About to embark on 2 hours of lazy aerobatics and circuit training in Winter Haven FL. Its a wonderful pilot's plane, I'm very jealous
  7. Hi Steve, Great work so far but the deck will probably bother you for ever (well it would bother me for ever...) 2 mm x 0.5mm strip wood would do the job quite quickly actually. Apply a black permanent marker to the edge and one end before sticking down with pva. to simulate caulking. Royal Naval deck planking has a join every 4 planks for strength, not every other one, planks are generally 12 ft in length on smaller vessels I believe. At that scale I'm not sure the camber on the deck will make much difference once the rigging and other deck houses are in place. I don't know what deck houses and hatches there are on the deck, but mark them out first because the planking frames every opening with mitred ends. This will also give you a location to place them once made up. Placing hatches and deck houses unframed on parallel planking is worse than getting the width wrong.... Hope that helps, great project Cheers Steve ps love the signature picture, mine was taken in a Boeing Stearman
  8. It's a great story Dmitriy, trouble is I live on the Thames, they would never get past Teddington locks... guess I'm stuck with annoying my wife
  9. Hi, My buoy was based on Lambert's drawing in Anatomy of the Ship - HMS Agassiz, a flower class corvette. This has the body of the buoy as 18in diameter and 33in long with the staff (excluding the flag staff) @ 16 ft long. The flag staff adds another 4 ft or so, it was adjustable. That anatomy book is a good reference for misc items in case you've not got a copy Cheers Steve
  10. Shame, would, have been fun. The problem I have with retirement is where to put all the blxxdy models....
  11. Stuart, that's my best side, the infallible side is a right bore Welcome aboard Steve, just let me know if you want to follow with a build of your own, two is always cheaper than one
  12. Frame build-up, first the good news, the slot cutting allowances were fine and everything fitted really well, even my sliding locking bars worked as I'd hoped, I may just be getting better at this stuff... However, I made three stupid mistakes. I forgot to leave a cut-out for the twin Oerlikon mount in the whale-back spine The cut-out for the open bridge back frame was out by the thickness of the ply (1.6mm). Looks like I chose the wrong side of the line to offset, dumb. The rear angled rudder support frames were slightly too long, again by the thickness of the ply. But these are all easily fixed by cutting away, only my pride took a beating. The picture below shows the two areas on the keel that needed cutting, I've amended the drawing as I will for any other errors I come across The first job after the trial fit is to install the brass guide tubes. There are three of these in the keel, one to take the rod support for mounting the boat on pillars, one for the central prop tube and one for the central rudder (2mm prop tube, 2.34mm for the rudder guide and mounitng rod). These were cut and epoxied in place. The masking tape allows me to centralise these tubes in the ply which of course is thinner. The cut-out adjustments have been made in this picture Then the open bridge box is made up, the floor is out of 1 mm ply This shot of the frames in place shows where the box sits. It also shows the horizontal locking bars. These are threaded through the frames once they are slotted down on the keel and once in place, they slide across to touch the keel on both sides. Thin cyno quickly fixes that in effect making the keel into a cross shape with all the frames locked in place and right angles to the keel, straight and square. This stage worked a dream More thin cyno later and all this structure is solid Next the two angled rudder shaft tube support frames have their own rudder support tubes glued in place and then (after a slight length adjustment) glued in place and to the transom which is kept square by these frames and some scratch bits of angle ply stiffening. Note the transom has pre-cut holes for the exhausts which will have etched outer flanges and bolt detailing (I've started a list of the etched components I need, but I guarantee I will forget something....) The outer prop shaft tubes have also been glued in place and in alignment. I'm not sure if this detail is right but I aligned the outer prop shafts on the same angle as the rudders which seemed logical and good engineering practice as otherwise there would be a slight lateral force on the rudder. Its a shame that the lines drawing doesn't include the horizontal shaft alignment, they often do but not in this case so I had to work from a section showing the rudder alignment only. I don't know if this is all too much boring detail. I wanted to fully explain how this little wooden hull comes together in-case any of you want to follow me and build one to this design. I'll be happy to supply the cutting drawings or even cut sheets and printed items to make things easier #getintowood Cheers Steve
  13. Thanks John, I've been through your BPB MTB build thread, great scratchbuilding and fantastic finish, something for me to aim at Cheers Steve
  14. Everyone is most welcome to join this little adventure, let's see what I can mess up this time I love the long whaleback deck house and the way the deck dips to the bow, such interesting lines. As I may have said before, sanding a wooden hull gets you an appreciation of a ships lines that drawings cannot convey, probably my favourite aspect of this hobby. Thanks for the support and nice comments, sit down and strap in Cheers Steve
  15. As I've been promising, this new thread follows on very quickly from the MTB, it is intended as a companion model and will cover the larger BPB boat before the addition of torpedo tubes. I've been working on the drawings while competing the MTB and so here we are ready to start building. For those who are not familiar with the type, this illustration from the Osprey British Motor gunboat publication gives a great idea of what the model should end up looking like I've managed to source about 10 high quality images of this class on-line, here are a couple of the better ones, MGB 75 and MGB 107 I've searched hard but can't find any commercially available model drawing sets, but the Haynes workshop manual featuring MGB81, the historic preserved MGB, is a great source of information and contains two extremely good drawing sheets that scale rather well and provide accurate lines. I've been able to scan, re-align and re-scale these and had them printed as A1 pdf's. They are based on drawings held by the IWM archive and to my delight, a number of the builder's drawings have been scanned and are available to purchase as art prints. Screen grabs of these provide useful back-up information and additional detail which is great. As It seems a shame that commercial model drawings are not available, this time, I really intended to completed a model markers set of plans that others could use. I'll make these available at both 1:48th scale and 1:72nd scale, more on that at the end of the build. The model will be 18 inches long, a nice size to work with. Here are some of the refence material I'll be using, the pdf reproduction of the Haynes drawings included below I'm not sure I should post a copy of the Haynes manual drawings here, but as a teaser, here is one of the IWM art prints you can buy (full size copies of original drawings, would look great framed) So, overall I'm happy there is enough detail for me to build a decent model of these vessels, one of the key criteria for me to start a project. If you are wondering why I've included the Anatomy of the ship Fairmile D book, it actually has the best drawings of the twin Oerlikon power turret which was shared with the dog boats. The Vickers 2prd turret on the bow is identical to that fitted on the SGB so I've already built one of those and have the etching drawings of the mount, the props look the same (as far as I'm concerned) as the MTB, I have a 3d model of Holman projector and the right smoke machine so this should be easy eh... I didn't have a drawing of the twin Oerlikon, but I do now This, together with the 2 pdr and the props are being cast by Shapeways and should be here in a couple of weeks, the guns in brass and the props in bronze, £80 for all 5 pieces inc shipping. So, progress to date, I've re-drawn the times and checked the gunwale, and chine alignments, that Haynes manual drawing is really good.. The whaleback deckhouse was slightly off, but I used the IWM construction drawing to correct it, think I have it right. Here is my outline lines drawing, the starting place for the frame drawing. On interesting point is the outer rudders are angled at @10 degrees to the vertical, that's a little challenge to get right. For this hull, I'm reverting to balsa infill hull construction which is then covered in diagonal planking. The MTB wasn't a great success in my mind as the inner curvature of the lower hull really didn't work well because the planking had no intermediate support. Also, the simple balsa infill I used on the S-boote actually leaves you able to see the frames in some lights which is bad. This combination approach should solve both these issues, it is what I used on the Fairmile B but that all happened before I started posting so I'll cover this in full detail here. This sectional drawing shows how the hull and deck house will be constructed. The deck-house top box stringers are deliberately composite as they curve in 2 directions and a single piece of wood would be too stiff and might actually warp the hull. The chine stringer is horizontal to allow the balsa blocks to be slid in, I'll show all this in the build. The vertical slot in this frame at the top is there to receive the open bridge side piece which connects frame 6 and 7. Frame 6 was moved forward a small amount to form the forward bulkhead of the open bridge, details details.... A new thing I'm trying on this project is the two locking bars, we'll see if they work. As I've said before, bent hulls are not good and using 1.6 mm ply for a keel is easily bent by the gluing process. Before I've dropped the deck-house into an open box structure on the lower hull and this box helps keep everything straight. With this whale-back deckhouse which curves in 3 dimensions, that isn't possible (well anything is possible, its just not easy) so I've drawn two side bars in the plan which will (I hope) slot through all the frames and then slide towards the keel to lock them and the frames in place to make sure it is all straight. Stick with me and you see what I mean From the lines above, each frame then needs splitting out, re-drawn to allow for the outer planking and the slots set in for the longitudinal timbers. The result is the following cutting plan, locking side bars at the bottom This was then turned into cutting artwork (colour changes and re-grouping) for cutting from a 1 ft x 2ft sheet of 1.6 mm ply (I just love mixing units, keeps the brain active...). 2 days later, this arrived in the post from 4D for a very reasonable £55, I'm getting so lazy in my old age... Add some balsa from SLEC and strip-wood from Cornwall Model boats and you have a wooden hull kit in the making The outer planking will be done in pear wood, it will look fantastic and be such a shame to paint it... Build starts tomorrow Cheers Steve
  16. Nice job Jon, I love the look of these vessels, good to see her at sea Cheers Steve
  17. Politics .... Hope to see more progress on the hull soon Cheers Steve
  18. It certainly is different Rob, and getting those diagonal lines to line up when perfectly amidships was interesting. Ever since I saw that picture of a Danbuoy being launched from a Flower, I had to find a reason to make one. Seeing them aboard the MTB's synched that That's all I'm aiming for Steve, trying to get the model to look in period, its a never ending journey The joys of scratch-building John, as you know, all the detail (and errors) are your own. The daft detail (like how many handwheels the smoke machine had) are the things I love. BTW, the answer is three but I managed to knock one off So, give up with kits, the sense of freedom is amazing. Unshackled, make can whatever you can find enough detail on People seem to spend more time making kits because they change them to get stuff right or add detail. Personally, I think starting from scratch is actually easier Thanks Richard, finally being retired is certainly a help when it comes to speed Thank you all for the likes, I'm glad my little project was interesting. Cheers Steve
  19. That's right Brian, the pre-war ones had Italian engines, but they naturally could not be sourced after the war started so we had to make do with US built Packard marine engines which were not as powerful and chipped the speed somewhat Cheers Steve
  20. Thanks Steve, I seem set on a path of reconstructing examples of all WW2's coastal forces Cheers David, with all models there are things we like and things we don't like so much, and to me, the thing I like most this time is that you can just see the diagonal planking, as you can in the real boats, in particular once they have been at sea for a time. I'm also happy with the torpedo chutes in the timber hul. That was not great on the Schnellboote, (pigs ear emoji) way too much filler needed. I took a lot more time and care in the drawing on this one and it paid off Thanks Jeff, I never quite know when to stop with the clutter, but study actual deck pictures and you never see a clean sweep in wartime, kits are all too clean imho. I also love adding little things like the buckets, almost a signature of mine Cheers Beefy, that's a bit of a back-handed compliment given the larger scale should be better, however, I know what you mean. As I said in the build thread, I had a bit of a disaster with the weathering meaning more repainting than I wanted. This has given a thickness to the finish that is very far from perfect. I promise to get better at this stage of the build process.... More practice needed, we never stop learning Cheers Paul, actually so am I, I have some exciting things to talk about next time, first post coming very soon I appreciate the comment Kev, though personally, the SGB is still my favourite Thanks Brian, that is always my aim and who knows, maybe one day some will end up there Thanks again guys for all the likes and comments, I just try to do the best my now very clumsy fingers allow Cheers Steve
  21. Following on from my build thread (Vosper build thread), here are a few pictures of the completed model MTB 34 was one of the first batch of 70ft MTB's built by Vosper's as part of the 1939 contract, completed in August 1940. She was converted to a target tug (CT23) in 1943 and sold in 1945. The drawings for the project were taken from the 1991 Model Shipwright plan and John Lambert's plan for marine Modelling international. In addition, details were confirmed from the IWM builders drawing that both these plans seem to be based upon. All rescaled to 1:48th scale and re-drawn. The colour scheme shows her with the 4th MTB flotilla based at HMS Beehive in Felixstowe in 1941 with very distinctive blue (B15) and white bands as illustriated in Coastal Craft History Vol 1 Below is that actual vessel at speed and the colour artwork from the Coastal Craft book. The torpedo chute bands are indicative of a senior officer in command The hull of the model is timber on ply frames, diagonal planked as per full-scale practice, the rest is a combination of brass, wood and some 3d printed items. The model has no commercial components, though the props were cast in bronze by Shapeways to my drawings She is shown weathered, not pristine, mounted on turned brass pillars and an oak base. A single crewman walks the deck to help people understand the scale and she carries a rigged danbuoy on the port side Here she is next to my last model, a Schnellboote to the same scale, for size comparison showing how relatively diminutive these vessels were Thanks to those who followed the build thread, I hope it was interesting and informative. I'll be back very soon with a new thread Cheers Steve
  22. This is a very special project David, well done
  23. Woah, I am so never mentioning paint colours again...
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