Jump to content

Steve D

Gold Member
  • Posts

    893
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Steve D

  1. I've found the etching frame (the bit that's left when I've taken all the pieces out. It has the 4d ref on it, I will ask them if they still have it
  2. Thanks for the nice comments, I actually love this model because it is so clean, there is no-where to hide. The John Haynes plans are not great they contain some errors, be careful. I don't seem to have the Model Shipwright plan scanned on this PC so I'll have to look through my plans draw. I can send you the frames drawing and the etching drawing that $d use to make the etching and they will make one for you, don't think they keep the photo-tool for 5 years but I can ask them, that will save you money. Let me know where to send the files if you want them, happy to share Also check out flickr, someone has photographed the whole boat in close-up, excellent source, I have those pictures if you need them Stvee
  3. And the last few pictures of the deck houses The model is just under 2 feet long Steve
  4. Pictures The bow has a very fine entry Man touching up the paint on the stern, adds scale Close-up of the deck at the stern showing the rivet detail and the steering quadrant
  5. While I continue my research and drawings on the SGB I'm about to build, I thought I'd share some information on Turbinia, a model I completed ~6 years ago and entered into the 2014 Model Engineering Exhibition where it won a bronze metal and a cup for the best dispplayed ship model Below are the complete judging notes I prepared for the show: Ship details Turbinia was built by Charles Parsons in 1894 as a demonstration steam yacht to prove the feasibility of using stream turbines to power ships. When she was launched, she was the fastest vessel ever built, eventually achieving almost 35 knots, an amazing speed for a vessel only 100 feet long. Most famously, she gate crashed the 1897 Spithead review where the entire home fleet was drawn up for the Queen’s inspection. Sailing between the lines of battleships, she comfortably outpaced the torpedo boat chasers used as guard ships. I believe that from that point on, all new British warships were fitted with turbines, the propulsion unit that paved the way for the Dreadnought revolution. Her statistics are: Length: 103’ 9” Beam: 9’ Draught: 3’ Turbinia is preserved today in a museum in Newcastle. The model shows the yacht after a funnel rebuild as she was around 1900, generally as she is preserved. Sources The model was built using three plans: A John Haynes plan @ 1:48 scale: contains a number inaccuracies on the lines and the deck-house locations but useful for some details A model Shipwright plan set by Charles Sells @ 1:24 scale: much better, the lines are based on this plan A small plan reproduced in a booklet produced by Ken Smith in 1996, reproduced below, seems to be from original drawings and so taken as very accurate, albeit small Many current photographs of the preserved ship in the Newcastle museum and various contemporary pictures found on-line As with all plan sets drawn by others, once you get into the detail, discrepancies arise. However, the basics start with the frame centres. In Turbinia is was simple to work out that the frames are at 18 inch centres. The enables the deck houses to be positioned exactly as their ends have to rest on frames. It also positions the stanchions (also on frames) and a good guess at the longitudinal breaks in the shell plating. After a lot of thought, as no shell expansion drawing was available, it was decided to use 5 plates at the mid-ships point, giving a maximum plate width just less that 4’. As the keel strake has to be an inner, the bilge strake is an outer and the sheer strake an inner again. This seems to agree with the pictures of her in dry dock following a collision that nearly sunk her. I’m guessing that rivet lines are weaknesses and flush riveting expensive so minimising rivet lines makes sense. The shell plates all meet between frames (often forgotten that they cannot be joined on a frame line) and no two joins are in the same frame space. It may not be exactly as she was built, but it makes sense to construct it in the way. The bilge strake runs smoothly into the top of the flared stern, this can be seen clearly on one of the dry dock pictures. The deck plating is interesting. Three strakes were used as can be seen from the pictures, with a mixture of flush and raised riveting. I’ve followed this pattern from the photographs. The raised riveting makes sense where the jolly boat is as it provides more purchase when handling the boat. I’m not sure why they went to the trouble of flush rivets elsewhere though. Hull construction The basic hull is solid wood constructed around 1/16” ply frames as shown in the drawing below: The frames were drawn on a CAD package with keel slots, printed and stuck to ply with spray mount before cutting out. The keel, also from 1/16” ply was held straight with 2 x ¼” timber sections. After this was sanded to the downward curve of the rear deck, the whole frame was locked together with a flat deck plate from 1/32” ply. The forward deck house was originally designed to be visible and so this section of the hull was planked. In the event, so little could be seen through the desk house windows that extra interior detail here as omitted. Obeche blocks were cut to slide between the frames, glued and then sanded back to the ply frames. This made a very strong and straight hull with the fine stern deck slope correctly featured. The hull was then painted in a clear liquid epoxy to harden it, allowing for further shape refinement and to act as a firm base for the Aluminium hull plating. The cambered deck was added as a superimposed additional 1/32” ply section on top of a central strip of wood sanded fore and aft to simulate the complex compound curve of the deck. The superimposed deck section contained cut-outs for the funnel and deck houses, allowing them to have flat bases. The three propeller shaft tubes (in brass) were set into the frames before the blocks were added. The hull plating lines were marked out on the hull, with the plate butt lines marked to ensure stagger. Each plate was then cut from Aluminium sheet (4 thou for inner strakes, 8 thou for outer) and bonded to the hull with contact adhesive. With the exception of the stern, all plates are single curvature. The stern plates were heated and beaten to shape. The deck plates were similarly marked and cut out, however, on the deck, the frame lines had been drawn so that the rivet detail could be worked out where non-flush riveting is used. The rivets here are made with a wheel from the back of the plate, again remembering that deck plates do not join on frame lines. Deck houses and fittings The deck houses are made in wood and then plated in Aluminium with rivet detail marked out on the reverse as with the deck plating. The wheel house is made from sheet Copper over a wooden buck, silver-soldered as are the wheel house sliding doors. The funnel is made from sheet brass (for strength) and mounted on a wooden Aluminium lined buck. I included the two smoke stacks inside the funnel casing, the boiler is double ended and I assumed two stacks were used. The fittings are built up from custom etched parts (produced by 4D Model Suppliers) from my artwork (shown below) This contains: Deckhouse rivet flanges & rivet strips Steering quadrant pieces Window frames (2 parts each) Stanchion bases Hatches Deck lights Coal scuttles Wheelhouse portholes Propeller blades The 9 left and right hand propellers are a key feature on the vessel. They were made by turning the hubs in brass and then silver-soldering the blades on in a jig. The outer circle holds the blades, which have been turned through 45 deg, for soldering. After which it is cut away. The window frames were soldered together over an Aluminium jig which held them centred. The Perspex glazing was then snapped in. Using relief etching provides the opportunity for including all rivet detail, quite distinctive on some of the hatches and of course the deck-house flanges. The sheet illustrated was etched in 22 thou brass and produced ~300 pieces from an A5 sheet. The colour code means; Red is half etch from face and; Cyan is half etch from rear. The 10’ ships boat was made with tissue paper and dilute PVA over a wooden buck containing the planking lines. This was then lined on the outside in card when dry and then fitted out in the normal manner. The mast and flag yard are scratch made in brass as are the other minor fittings. I’ve fitted her with an Admiralty pattern anchor, not the Hall’s anchor she has today. This type of anchor is shown on some contemporary photographs and looked interesting to me. I’m guessing she could have carried either. Studying the photographs, the life rings were stored on the outside of the handrails, which seems unusual practice, but is probably due to the limited width on deck. Colours and display The colours follow the pattern of the preserved vessel with the exception of the hull below the water line. This has now been painted black, but contemporary references talk about dark green. Early models also show the hull in green and this colour was used on the vessel before it was moved to Newcastle. This illustration shows a model from the Science Museum. The hull is dark green below the water-line (which is set too low on this model, see contemporary pictures showing a much higher water line). I decided to use this colour for the model, there is plenty of evidence of a green hull and it lifts the model as it would have the actual vessel. The name on her side was a custom water slide made based on a drawing of the ship as preserved. Display is always a difficult problem. For this model, I decided to display it in a simulated dry dock to set it off and add scale to the model. Turbinia is a strange model to scale in your mind as there are no natural scale clues that really help. Adding the dry dock and the figure touching up the paint anchors the scale well. I took some hints from pictures of her in dry dock after a collision but the actual dry dock is not a true model, more a complex stand. She is shown finished and ready to re-float with all her paintwork bright, though age on the deck houses show she is not new. The bright paintwork is set-off by the dull grey dock. No flags are flown as she is not yet floating. The next post shows the completed model
  6. Awesome build, such excellent work at such a small scale, reminds me of Norman Ough, genius
  7. I really appreciate the nice comment, thanks. Actually, it was a lot of fun and made a welcome change, thinking about how I can do a similar job for CMB model. They were stored and launched sideways on rails, help me use up the remaining water ....
  8. It's finished and I'm quite pleased with the result, certainly its got lots of detail to create interest. The final touch is the magnificent figures from ModelU ( www.modelu3d.co.uk ) But first, back to the picture that inspired it And the final result A passing resemblance. The workman is inspecting the damage to the forefoot, while the rating is coming to check on progress The other workman on the platform is taking a break (amazingly, the height of the handrail fitted exactly to where his hand is resting, what are the odds?). A second rating seems to be getting the dinghy underway Meanwhile the dinghy in the boats shed is on the back-burner That ladder on the back was supposed to be against the stern but of course the water is in the way and it couldn't float!. There's a broken sled trolley and an old grating in the rubbish pile at the rear Much happier with the water ripples now, and the satin varnish on the black edge (black board paint) has finished the edge of the water covering the white edges where I removed the meniscus. The ratings are from Shapeways, (1:48th scale figures are tough to source....) Close-up of the first workman, hopefully you can see the paint pots though that repair will take more than paint! A water butt and some old bricks round the back, that pump needs painting, just look at the rust.... An attempt to show the lovely lines of the barge, this is a boat model after all, displayed rather elaborately Thanks for following and the nice comments, another thread coming soon
  9. Thanks Richard, I sincerely appreciate such comments from people who know how frustrating this hobby can be. I was very upset by the ripples, even my wife who normally takes only the slightest interest, said, "that doesn't look right" dooming my mood further.... The Vallejo water effect has improved the situation, but that is most definitely a skill that needs honing, next time eh? Cheers Steve
  10. Quick update, nearing completion now. The case is finished and being varnished, meanwhile, the barge clean-up is as good as I can make it, it suffered from 10 years in the workshop and some of that is too tough to fix now. Still, its in for reapir so I guess a little damage is to be expected. The water ripples were not a success, too distinctive, so I've covered the surface with Vallejo water effects which is self levelling and has hidden most of my errors. More practice needed with water.... Now with the barge installed and the shed back in place, a busy boat-yard scene. Broom just noticeable leaning against the boat frame in the shed and an atmospheric (ie badly lit) shot from the water end... Block and tackle visible at the end of the shed, there will be more rope lying about when its all done I've ordered two 1:48th scale workmen, one kneeling and one leaning. The kneeling one will be on the platform fixing the stem damage and the leaning one will be leaning against the boat frame. I just need to paint the edge black, add a little more clutter and complete the case and that's about it. Hopefully post some better pictures in a couple of weeks (we're away next weekend)
  11. Hi Richard, I've just been reading your Bluenose thread, so really appreciate those comments. I know exactly how fiddly those mast bands are to make, a man after my own heart! Thanks Steve
  12. Love the bolts, simple and very effective
  13. The perspex came away without a problem last night, but the resin has a significant meniscus that needs to be carefully cut away. I made a start but that stuff is tough as anything, needs more attention to get it tidy
  14. Rob, Holding the mixing pot after a couple of hours, the mixture left was easily over 40 deg C still, it takes 24 hours to cure completely. Interestingly, there were no bubbles in the mix but I did stir it very slowly and gently for the 10 minutes stated Getting that perspex off is a job for this evening . I'm hoping I can cut through the thin layer of bathroom sealant to lift it away from the wood without damaging the ply. I've got some sealant remover that should clean the wood surface off though I'm wondering now if I should have varnished it first. This whole thing is an experiment, way out of my comfort zone I used Vaseline on the face that the resin touches as the guys at 4d advised. I applied this with a flat ended brush very carefully to avoid touching the river bed. Spray wax would also work but is harder to control over-spray. This is the last tense moment, I'll drop a post on how it turns out. If you've not seen it, the 4d model shop website is excellent https://modelshop.co.uk/ Its a really dangerous (ie expensive) place to visit!! They serve professional architectural model makers and are really helpful. They do my etching work and for the SGB I've started drawing, I'm going to try their laser cutting service, all will be revealed in another thread shortly
  15. Woodland Scenics Water Ripples coming this week, should make the water come alive and look less flat. My idea is that the flow is towards the bow of the boat so will leave some turbulence in the wake of the rocks and swirl up the ramp a little..., Been watching a lot of videos
  16. Yes, its a two part product, they also do one that melts and then solidifies, but this product is the one for deep water, I guess its formulated to control the build up of heat during the cure. I should have added some muddy water to the second pour as you can just see the line on the edge, will have to live with that...
  17. This update is just on the water pour, I've been busy with the barge and some other cool details but they'll wait for next week when it finally comes together Below is the diorama encased in perspex sheets. These are stuck on with bathroom sealant which I hope I can cut away without damaging the wood too much The inside edge of the perspex has been coated in Vasaline taking care not to touch the paint. This process was done indoors, not too much dust here This is the stuff i used, Deep Pour water from Woodland Scenics. They do muddy water and clear, I mixed 1 part muddy water with 2 parts clear, as I wanted to see the rocks etc but totally clear would be wrong The process is a steady one, warm the mixture in 50 deg water for 15 minutes, measure the quantity, stir for 5 minutes, rest for 5 , stir for 5 more and then pour, but the pour is limited to 1/2 inch so I had to do two mixes as my depth is 5/8th inch. Second mix was clear only added after 4 hours. Cover is all in aluminium foil while it hardens, final cure takes 24 hours Hard to see with the perspex in the way but it seems to have worked. The problem I have is the slipway has a slight ridge due to the viscosity of the mixture. However, I have some other stuff that I can add on top and I'll feather it out with that. I also need to add the water ripples to give an indication of gently flowing water. Anyway, big relief that nothing reacted badly or bubbled, the water has a slight translucency so that the weed and rocks show through. The base wood edge will be painted black-board black in the end btw. I've decided this is a fairly over the top way to present a model boat, but its been such fun making all the individual details
  18. Hi Stuart I'll let you into the secret if you promise not to tell anyone else. I've done a lot of research on the Flower, including buying the digitally remastered film Cruel Sea, a must if you are going to model a flower, brilliant detail. However, while I want to build one, I think it will need to await my retirement, whenever that is!. So I've decided to build one of the Denny steam gunboats.. My plan is to make this at 1:48th scale as a sort of advanced kit if anyone else wants to build one using wood and metal. At 3ft long, it could easily be made into a working model, though personally, I don't do that.. Expect a new thread to start in a couple of weeks, I'm about to make a start on the drawings and will share the whole process. 4D offer a cutting CAD service so I'm going to experiment with them cutting the frames (lazy, but accurate), lots of new stuff to try. The hull will be wooden then plated in aluminium as will the superstructure, a technique I've done before Cheers Steve
  19. This weekend's update, lots to talk about. First, ladders, the Unimat drill head and milling attachment was pressed into service to drill 1.1mm holes at precise centres Then some 1mm square lime wood was stripped through a draw plate (my grandfather's) to take the edges off so it could be assembled with the stretchers over a 6mm block And then the stretchers were rounded off to form a 'D' section, three different lengths of ladder made. They are a little heavy, but will do. I also made a hand-pump from brass and fitted it to the end of the shed with a bucket. The green needs matting down, bit too shiny in this picture. I'll fill the bucket with water later Very exciting, I bought some AK wet effect liquid and went over the stone walls and the lower end of the ramp, the roofs, and the sled trolleys, raised the look, it was all too flat. Very impressed with that wet effect.. Here you can see (just) the tools on the bench, a bow saw and a couple of planes. The grating is something they are repairing The office floor is in, as is the boat, much weathered down. It's sitting in its final place, on a couple of 0.6mm wires so it will stay put when I pour the water (next weekend. I've just noticed the fire bucket on the slip-way, this has a hook at the end of the shed. The boat is tied up fore and aft, I made a couple of oar-locks and one oar is resting in the outboard one, looking forward to seeing the water in place Final shot shows the back of the shed, not the spare sled trolley rusting away and some more timber still needs weathering. The wet effect on the roof and the tarpaulin is evident here The case is ordered, time to start considering the next project.....
  20. Thanks, I have more planned, trying to work out how to make a tiny wooden plane to leave on the bench, not that anyone will see it, but I'll know it's there....
  21. No big progress but lots of little bits... 3 buckets in various stages of completion (two here and one in the shed), a wood steamer that will have a pipe from a boiler on the stove (mounted on the side wall of the shed, mountings are primed), a small truck for moving shifting stuff around, a box of boat fittings in need of a polish, etc... The anvil was in a plastic kit I'd bought years ago, mounted on a short length of aged privet. The same kit had a vice, cheating really. The grind wheel also shown. I also need to make at least two ladders. The rear of the shed has coal storage, some bricks that need ageing and in the distance, a wire rope reel. The surface now has the clinker finish I wanted, dark but an improvement Hard to see in this picture is the fire bucket hanging at the back, still only primed And the boat is finished, a ladder added (from an old etching sheet) and a couple of rusty iron loops. The boat will be floating in water at this end about 1/2 inch deep, tied up. I have to do some trials with the woodland scenics deep pour water, too much work invested now to ruin it The barge is under refurbishment, the white paint finish was terrible so I had to take all the fittings off and sand it back, silly to have the mounting let down by the whole purpose of the project.... That process nearly worked, now it needs repairing before re-building...
  22. That lifebuoy was a spare I had in the bits drawer. It is a low-temperature metal casting from a rubber mould I made years ago. The master for the mould was turned in brass and filed a lot! The bands are made from masking tape and the rope is from one of the many balls of cotton I keep. Being metal, it would make a terrible float
  23. This weekends update. Much more progress on weathering and planting! Outside stack of wood covering in a tarpaulin with weeds growing around it. Bricks holding the tarpaulin in place I also made a board for the lifebuoy Still weathering the slipway truck and I've made a start on cleaning up the barge itself, but my gloss varnish was too old so work stopped on that, will finish next week. The funnel and cowl vents were removed and polished, they look stunning. The slight damage to the stem I've decided to have them working on, so I made a small platform Still have a couple of ladders and buckets to make, plus tins of paint and tools. Couldn't put it off any longer so made the dinghy that will be tied up against the quay. Shown here fitting the ribs. Same 10ft mould as I used for the Fairmile The mould uses spray wax as a releasing agent which (even after cleaning with alcohol) seems to stop the glue sticking to anything but my fingers....
  24. Guys, Thanks for all the nice comments. Considering this is my first attempt at scenic painting, I think the colours are not too bad. Vallejo paint is wonderful btw. Since taking these pictures I've been adding rust detail using Vallejo pigments to the sled and the shed roof, though I'm not sure I know what I'm doing, hence no pictures yet. We'll see how that goes and I'll post an update at the weekend. Steve
×
×
  • Create New...