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Steve D

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  1. I admit it is counter-intuitive. When I saw your first comment last night on my phone, I thought I'd got them the wrong way round but if you look at this picture the raised edge is towards the bow (to the left) as I have made it. It was the same detail on the S-boote. I just double checked that detail and realised that these are underwater exhausts to reduce noise,, not inlet pipes. The water inlet is clearly shown below in this detail shot of an s-boot (IWM picture clearly labelled). So the pipe above is probably a bilge pump outlet which means I'm missing the inlet opening, not visible on the r-boote picture above and I'll now need to add it On the S-boote the exhaust outlet is ~ 50 mm dia larger. R-boote were not built for speed but manoeuvrability so less engine cooling makes sense. The oval shape is probably the pipe intersection angle to the hull aiding flow. Thanks for your comments, building a model generates some degree of tunnel vision and justification bias. Challenges are always welcome so I can produce the best result 5th and 6th holes coming Cheers Steve
  2. Update on the hull, been working on the brass fittings. First, the prop shaft, end flange and shaft extension to the A frames. The insert is just enough to maintain alignment, this is fixed in place but the shafts will remain removable at this stage. (they are 1.6mm dia, 3 inches or 75 mm full scale) Next I turned the A frame sleeves and made up the brass cores for the three rudders, also on 1.6 mm brass shafts, 0.4 mm thick. This is before I'd cleaned up the soft solder, don't judge, Next stage, the brass rudder cores where lined wiht 1 mm maple and sanded to shape. Final shaping will be with filler, but this is near finish Now I can locate the A frames relative to the rudder, the 4 bladed props will be cast bronze as the last few models. With this all made I can ensure these fit properly The A frame supports were silver soldered to the shaft bearings and after plenty of filing and adjustment, the hull mounting plates were attached wiht soft solder to form a good join and create a smooth transition (just noticed the middle rudder is 180 rotated in this shot ) Then onto the cooling water openings. There are two each side. more or less above each other The intake is elliptical so I knocked up a simple jig to solder the pipes to the cover plate at the right angle (45 deg) Then they were cut out and files to shape. The exhaust (above waterline) was a simple square plate set into the planking, it is slightly smaller, here they are mounted Lastly, progress summary shot, the lines are looking nice now Next onto the deck planking forward of the deckhouse to locate the crew flat hatch shield Cheers Steve
  3. Nice whaler, remember there is a lot of stuff in a whaler, drop keel, rudder, oars, gratings, anchors, masts, release gear, sails etc., they are busy boats. Also RN boats are clinker not carvel built, don't know about French ones For interest, this is the last one I made (1/48th scale in papier-mâché and card of course)
  4. My personal favourite is a "slug" the unit of mass when talking about pound as a force (or something like that......)
  5. UK's half metrication has many odd consequences. Timber in the UK is still sold in units of 0.3m (so ~ feet) and still made in nominal imperial sizes (2 x 1 being 2 inches by 1 inch, nominal saw size = 44 mm by 22 mm final planed size, strictly speaking is should be referred to as 1 x 2 but no one seems to do that ).. So going to a timber yard today, I will still order (say) "4, 2.4m lengths of 2x1" and be understood perfectly unless the guy is young and new to the job, 2.4 m being 8 feet of course. You can impose the metric system but you can't rebuild all the houses so plaster board is still sold in 8 x 4 sheets (feet of course) and tapes have diamond markings every 16 inches to mark where studs are placed (1/3rd sheet width)... This thread is a German vessel, being build to 1/4inch to 1 ft scale, and while I think in inches when modelling, I will mostly measure in mm and of course modelling timber sizes are in mm. 1 inch full scale is divided by 1.89 to get its size in mm at 1/48th scale. RN vessels tended to size things for convenience so hatches would be 18 inches square etc, why make stuff hard when there is a war on.... I'm sure this all sounds nuts to people not living in the UK, but to engineers of a certain age educated in the late 60's straddling the change (like me) it is as natural as breathing. And please don't get me started on SI and metric units as applied to civil engineering,..... Musing over, back to modelling Steve
  6. Thanks Bertie, my goal with these threads is to explain how I build in wood and metal, hopefully to inspire others back to more traditional materials Cheers Dmitriy, I just use the easiest material I have to hand. Persuading brass to take the right double curvature is well beyond my expertise, copper is so soft and once heated and quenched it can be made to do almost anything. I should have said the copper sheet I used for the stern is 0.3 mm or 12 thou in old money* (inches). The brass etching was 15 thou or 0.4 mm thick, half etched around the bumps. * To explain that colloquialism, in 1971 the UK went decimal, so changed to 100 new pennies from the pervious 240 pennies to £1. Hence for years afterwards, people would often talk about prices and then repeat the value "in old money", so 25p or 5 shillings in old money. That stuck with me and it comes out talking about inches and mm. Our move to the metric system was set to take place over a number of phases. The story goes that when the phase came to deal with liquid measures for alcohol, Harrod Wilson (the PM) blocked the move as he didn't want to go down in history and the person who abolished the pint (beer)... After that, it never got restarted so we are left selling petrol in litres but with cars that measure consumption in miles per gallon I love it.... Cheers Steve
  7. A bit of bitty progress. I'm waiting for the planking for the deck to arrive so I've been fiddling with other stuff. First, the anchor scallop needs lining wiht metal, copper in this case. A little bit of panel beating to get it into shape. This leaves minor dents but I don't mind that, this part would get dented easily in service (I'll probably fill the worst).. The odd shape leads the anchor chain to the chain stopper. Next I made the forward roller fairleads, just about the smallest rollers I can actually see to turn Here are the frames before installing the rollers and here afterwards (slightly out of focus sorry) In the background is the breakwater made from brass wiht 0.7 mm brass wire forming th top Here is is being soldered And a better shot on the fo'c'stle. This has flanges to the rear and braces forward, will be added after planking Then the rear deck checker plate etching arrived The metal deck area has a strip that runs from the galley hatch to the deckhouse which I'd included in the etching but in the end decided that this wouldn't have been anti-slip so I've laid it with smooth brass and etched butt straps I also decided that the roll-over would be smooth, here the anti-slip surface would abrade ropes so I finished this in copper as it has double curvature. Again the odd dent from my untrained hammering adds realism, it would get bashed a lot I made this in separate sheets, could have been one piece of course but the real boat had sheets and the slight edge impressions look very like the real thing. This reinforcement was added in the field not the shipyard and bolted in place, it would not have been perfect. The gap in the middle is for the sweep winch to slot into. The gap shape forward is for the galley hatch, I'll make up the wooden buck for that next Cheers Steve
  8. A few different things to report. Firstly, I added the bumper strip fairings (not sure what else to call them) that (I guess) stop the rubbing strip catching on things (like quay-side rails). Thhis was done by cutting the rubbing strip back to the planking and inserting a short length of 8 mm maple, I used a simple jig to get them all the same height Once these were in place, I added the outer strip to the rubbing strip and the outer fairings, overall the rubbing strip sits 1.5 mm out from the planking (that's ~ 3 inch full size) and is "D" shaped. Then the fairings were sanded to profile Next the forward upper rubbing strips were added. These are actually triangular, so I halved some 2mm square line on the diagonal and glued to to some 3 mm x 0.5 mm strip wood that was raised 0.5 mm above the deck. This picture may help explain my tangled English Those three short lengths of 0.5 mm thick strip are there to help me align the 3 mm under-strip. Doing this gave me a land for the forward gunwale which sticks up ~ 4 mm from the deck at the bow and tapers smoothly down to a 1 mm kicker along the timber deck Here you can see it before sanding to the smooth curve and the triangular shape of the forward rubbing strip (bit out of focus sorry) The kicker was made out of 1 mm square lime, two high until the start of the metal checker plate rear deck section, 1 high thereafter. Very careful study of this picture gives a good clue to the deck plating. As I know how big the galley hatch is, it is possible to work out that the deck plates are 1 m square, laid on top of the timber deck as reinforcing for handling the sweep gear. The anti-slip surface is a series of half round blisters ((like rivet heads) @ 70 mm centres. From other photographs, it can be seen that the plates butt against each other on the square (so the joints form a cross). I've drawn these and sent them to be etched in 0.38 brass, hopefully with me early next week. The main deck will be planked in 2 mm x 0.5 mm maple strip-wood, but these is no point doing that underneath the brass, so a piece of 0.5 mm ply was cut and glued in place. There is also a central metal strip running to the engine-room casing, these look to be 700 mm square plates. The picture I cut out and mounted to the ply is incomplete but fine for this purpose. You can see one of the access hatches marked out and also the space for the sweep winch. The galley hatch sits where the gap is before the run to the engine-room casing Here it is with the paper removed and sanded You can see the gunwale kicker in this shot and the stern lower side rubbing strip Lastly, this subtype of R25 class has an open scallop not a hawse hole for the anchor on the port side. I was nervous of cutting this as a mistake would have ruined a lot of good work. In the end it cut quite easily with a piercing saw an was sanded to shape. Then the outer moulding was added and smoothed into the rubbing strip. That moulding is in beech I think. The dark areas at the top and bottom of the cut-out are where I've filled cracks with very fine sawdust power and thin cyno, simple and quick filler, I have a stock from emptying the disk sander. This picture also shows the fo'c'stle gunwale's smooth transition back to the deck kicker. Close to the end of the hull phase of the build (before painting in primer for final filling and more sanding of course...) Overall, a good couple of days with no major mistakes. Looking forward to seeing that rear deck in brass, special Cheers Steve,
  9. Second side and transom completed and one coat of sanding sealer applied Note the bow has a flat profile, not the usual pointed shape, this is very clear on the photographs Next, more work on the rubbing strips and side bumpers which are quite complex, looking forward to this bit I also sent off the artwork for the stern deck checker-plate, more on that when it gets back from etching Cheers Steve
  10. Lovely work Pascal. Just for fun, here is a picture of this type of anchor (though the version with folding flukes) that I scratch-built in brass for my seaplane tender. 1:12th scale so of course it all works. The pin on a chain at the base of the main arm locks the flukes in place. The shackle below this is for the recovery line used to un-stick the anchor Love watching your drawing work Cheers Steve
  11. Starboard side planking complete Now I admit to being lazy when it comes to planking as this is not going to be seen, it will have fine surface filler and paint applied. Really I'm only planking the hull because: I enjoy it; It covers the ply formers which have a nasty habit of showing through no matter how much paint is applied; and No matter how careful the fine surface filling it, the odd horizontal line will still leave a faint shadow and given the actual hulls were fore-and-aft planking (as opposed to diagonal planked), this reflects reality in a soft way So, back to being lazy. Each plank should be tapered but life is too short and tapering 0.5 mm strip is simply a nightmare. So I only tapered filling pieces. The planking is in 5 mm and 3 mm cherry, the narrow strips used for the bow flare and the round of the bilge, areas where the curvature is high Here are the first strips laid in place around the forward rubbing strip And this shows how I dealt with the expansion needed bilge, see lazy... Strips are glued using cyno, held in place with masking tape Gap filled And done, sanded and a single coat of sanding sealer applied This will be rubbed down and a second coat applied prior to primer. The filler is added after the primer as this latter shows where is is needed Back upright, love the colour of cherry wood On to side two Cheers Steve and before you all suggest I leave it natural, I'm definitely painting
  12. Cheers Rob , but just give me another day or so and you'll see it planked in cherry wood, now that's beauty, will be a shame to paint it..... Thanks Steve
  13. You should see the mess I made in the garage , it's more or less a toxic area that now cannot be entered without a hazmat suit. My workshop is at the top of the house so dust levels are strictly controlled by the need to continue to be allowed live in the house Cheers Steve
  14. More progress on the hull. The deck was cut out and glued in place after a lot of sanding to make the sheerline look right. This time I opted not to fit a sheer strake between the frames, probably a bad call, much easier to use that to get the sheer line smooth Cleaned up with the deckhouse in place The bow is still lacking definition. The line of the knuckle is tough to do. In the end I taped it and filled to the tape to get is roughly right, then I added the base timber for the rubbing strake which sits on the edge of the knuckle. This gave me a line to sand against, without that I would have been lost Much filling and sanding later, its getting very close to right. I've added a coat of sanding sealer to act as a foundation for the planking which I will glue in place wiht cyno. The surface still has a few minor blemishes, but these are covered up by the planking. As long as it feels smooth, it will work. Note the bow blocks were jelutong not balsa, its a harder wood that is easier to get bow curves right The stern lower hull picture shows the amount of filler needed between the frames. There is a tendency to hollow between the frames when sanding as the balsa is so soft compared to the ply. This is tough to avoid, but filler fixes the problem. The prop shaft tubes have been faired into the hull with more filler This shot compares the hull to the full size example above, not too bad I think Lastly, the stern round-over was cut from a block of jelutong and glued in place. It still needs a little filling to smooth it in place. It seemed to me easier to round the stern (plan-view) first and the cut a block to match the curve, lots of compound curves going on here Somewhere in my dim and distant past (~25 years ago) I bought a 1 ft by 2ft plank of 1 inch thick jelutong, I can't remember where. It is still going strong as I use is sparingly. Hopefully will see me out, goodness knows what it would cost today. It is almost as good as boxwood when it comes to sanding or carving, wonderful stuff The lower hull at the stern is an odd shape, very flat and actually a little hollow. I'm guessing this was driven by the requirements of installing the Voith Schneider propulsion system which needs a flat bottom section. Even though this vessel has conventional propellers, the lines were the same and that hollow is necessary to fit the prop size without a clash. Overall, its nearly ready for planking, probably one more filling round needed as a last tidy up Cheers Steve
  15. Hi Guy, Very clean work there If you feel like 1/48th scale scratch building, check out my MTB and MGB threads. I have all the artwork for laser frame cutting and the etchings, happy to provide sort of a short kit... Cheers Steve
  16. Some time and plenty of sawdust later here is the hull about 90% right As I've said in previous threads, sanding a hull really helps you get inside the head of the designer. This hull looks simple, but the lines are actually quite complex and subtle. There is a distinct hollow to the stern where the props are and a pronounced tumblehome. Forward the lines fill out very quickly and sanding revealed that the frame 3 lines are slightly wrong as a slight hollow appears when looking diagonally from the keel up, more than should be there. I've amended the drawing to deal with this and will correct the model with filler. Note those prop shaft tubes are actually inner tubes, The final tube slips over them and will be smoothed in with filler The knuckle on the bow is really hard to sand properly. What I have to do is draw the knuckle line on the hull and use filler to perfect that shape, nothing is ever easy. See the picture below to understand the challenge here. Note the excellent finish they achieved considering this was wartime, impressive eh? Anyway, here she is on the building frame And back in the workshop with the deckhouse in place Looking at these pictures, the block between frames 4 to 6 looks to be too full at the bilge. All this can be sorted, just time, sanding and filler. As always, fingers are the best tool for confirming the shape. This is the beauty of this method of construction, it allows you to adjust lines before planking, very useful when not working from actual builders drawings. As the lines I drew came from three drawings, I'm actually quite pleased to get this far without major adjustment Next stage is to fit the deck so I get the sheer line right, then back to the hull final shaping before planking. The deck will allow me to get the stern plan curve right before carving the round over stern. I also need it to get the anchor scallop right Cheers Steve
  17. Thanks Rob, I hope the finish is as clean as your builds always are. Re the depth charge rack, it actually has a subtle difference in that the charge is held in a rocker rather than rolling down a simple slide. Its an interesting design with added complexity that may have been to prevent accidental loss in bad weather Cheers Steve
  18. OK, I'm back and back to work. Completed the balsa block rough cutting and shaping. You can see from this picture that this model could easily be turned into a working model, lots of space for running gear. Lots of dust and sawdust, I even wore a mask The shaping at this stage is very rough, still a long way to go but the knuckle is starting to take shape The laser cutting burns the ply black, so it is easy to see when to stop sanding as the black lines disappear I also sent my drawings off to be printed. They still need some work, but are easily good enough for me to work from and having them on the wall allows me to check them more carefully than I can do on the screen. Show below on my magnetic wall with the books I've used as source material This is my first set of completed model plans (normally I just do multiple scratch views) and I'm actually quite happy the way they came out. They are better than many plans I've worked from in the past Cheers Steve
  19. Thanks Bertie I also have mostly information about RN vessels so this is a voyage of discovery for me. Still, the early R-boats clearly show their motor yacht lineage which I like and I get to build a wooden deck which is great Cheers Steve
  20. Well Stuart, as they say, "to err is human but to really scr*w-up, you need a computer". In my case, both apply... Still, back to the build and the last update for a bit as we are off for a short break in Spain. More work on the wheelhouse, this time the roof which will be removable until quite late in the build (certainly after the cladding is in place). This was made with transverse beams to hold the curved shape and an outer border timber to help form the rounded edge The support beams for the roof decking were also installed and sanded flat, also helping to maintain the shape (0.5 mm ply roof) The companion-way opening is also included, I'm going to fit out the interior and leave this open (probably...) Here back in the hull frame I'm still staggered how large this is (about 12ft by 14ft), still it also contained the radio so I guess it makes some sense Next the inner corners of the longitudinal frame were reinforced as those outstands need to be removed before installing the balsa They are useful to help the frame slot together but interfere with the balsa Which I started but ran out of time, so it stays work in progress until we are back. Always rough at this stage, plenty of planning and sanding to go. It's quite a big hull, comparable (actually slightly longer) with the Fairmile B but with much finer lines Cheers Steve
  21. Hi Guy, Nice workshop, its very important to get this stuff right, I'm on 5th iteration (and house) and I'm still improving.... I've been reading up on the RAF ASR service recently and stumbled across this on Amazon The sea shall not have them which is full of footage on ASR launches, might be worth checking out. Also worth watching is "One of our aircraft is missing" which was made during wartime. I was considering an RAF Pinnace but my thoughts have now shifted to a beached ASR buoy "Cuckoo" diorama once the R-boote is done. Anyway, interested to see how this goes Cheers Steve
  22. David, I've been watching these replies and for some reason thought I had already commented on your (early) retirement, seems I hadn't I retired late due to the need to sell the business and am still finding my way around having no fixed schedule or the need to get up at 6am (though to my wife's annoyance, I still do, those habits are very tough to break) I also did a year of DIY on the new house which was more physical work than I'd done in many years, kept my waistline trim though I hope it all goes well for you and I very much look forward to your getting back to the big Vic Cheers Steve
  23. That's great Arjan, many thanks It's all consistent with what I've drawn however the stiffener detail on the back is not something I'd noticed before and will model It's these little details that I love I realised overnight that I've been blabbering on about the construction and not explained how I'm building this hull, not helpful. It is the same method used on the MGB but I guess not everyone has read that thread (not sure why not...) so here is a scratch view from the lines sheet that explains the way I'm building the hull and deck-house. I hope this will fill in the gaps to make what I'm writing clearer Cheers Steve
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