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Steve D

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Everything posted by Steve D

  1. I agree completely Andreas. Anything made my people can be wrong. Stuff made against a manufacturer's budget even more so. Building from kits means you inevitably end up inheriting other people's mistakes. At least with scratch-building, you only have yourself to blame This 3D model is quite frankly incredible, I'm loving watching it develop Cheers Steve
  2. Yup, it was that one. I liked the round end to the cabin, very cool Cheers Steve
  3. Thanks Pascal, that's a shame, the rounded back to the stern cabin looks so cool (and if I may say, French...). The modern motor launches don't really do it for me but that's some more great resource material, certainly good enough to build from I like the rivets, got to pile in those extra details Cheers Steve
  4. Hi Pascal, Just looking through these pictures again, I've taken a fancy to that motor (admiral's?) barge. Do you happen to have quality drawings of it? Not for now, but perhaps later that might make an excellent subject for me (@ 1/48th or even 1/24th...). I 'm always on the lookout for potential models Cheers Steve
  5. You have to love deck shots, the holy grail of ship modelling..... Wonderful work as ever, this thread is a major resource for those coming behind with the courage to tackle such a complex subject Cheers Steve
  6. Thanks for the nice comment and sorry I missed your update, it seems the forum doesn't alert me to comments. I really only work in 1:48th scale, it's what I know and am used to what I can get away with. However, if I can help in any way with your build, please reach out. I'd be happy to rescale my drawings to 1:72nd for the bridge if you wish, just message me. I could easily do a 3D model for printing for instance, being retired, I have the time Cheers Steve
  7. Welcome aboard! Much more fun and frustration still to come... Cheers Steve
  8. Sorry for the gap in updates, I've been a little under the weather and also dealing with some changes of direction on the model. First, as promised, the deckhouse structure needed plating (it was made of steel) and so had a riveted metal finish. Forward, the wheelhouse was also armour plated, My plan is to build the forward armour plating from a brass etching to incorporate the window openings and the rivet detail. This will allow me to use a single piece on each side to also make the open bridge wings, meaning they will be strong and thin. I had considered copper, but rivet detail is hard to work into the copper well, and I'm probably getting lazy in me advancing years, etched it will be. However, the rear section over the engines can easily be made up in Aluminium and rivet detail incorporated with a pin wheel (actually two different ones). Thanks to the access to the shipyard photographs, I found this great picture of them installing one of the engines A number of things are clear from this, the first being that the entire engine room roof was removable, you can see it in the foreground with the roof (probably) bulb-flats that stiffen it. From this I took a number of points. The roof would have transvers rivet lines to secure these bulb-flats and large peripheral fixings round the edge. It would also have a distinctive edge slightly inside the edge of the structure. The other key point is the floor timbers shown in the red ellipse. I'd not realised this before as I have no photographs of the open bridge floor, but it was clearly planked fore and aft to facilitate drainage and anti-slip usage. Without this photograph I'd have missed this detail as did the makers of War Thunder in their otherwise quite good 3D model. Anyway, that will come a little later. In deciding what to model on the rear section, this picture is also helpful as it shows overlapping plates running down the side and some other great details for later. Note this is R25, the class boat and an early model that still has cowl vents. They were not incorporated in the later sub-type I'm building. Two overlapping plates really are a little too fussy for the model scale, so I settled for a single plate to provide interest to the detail Here is where this has got to. I'm going to try to add the angle flange at the base but not yet. I'll probably damage it handling the removable section. You can just make out the vertical stiffener rivet runs, also across the deck. I didn't bother with the forward section which will have the planking support beams shorty. The square hole is for the engine room hatch, I'll probably leave this open when completed. I then attempted the skylight in aluminium clad wood (with etched roof light plates), here is the timber buck in place Anyway, long story short, it didn't work, just not good enough so it went in the bin to be replaced with a printed skylight, 3D model below My plan is to print this and all the other skylights (also now drawn) in clear resin and mask the glass when painting. I'll also paint the inside white (it is hollow), be interesting to see if this adds a little depth to the model... While doing all this, I noticed that the centre deck section to the rear of the deckhouse is timber not metal. In this I had been mislead by the War Thunder 3D model which has this in grey paint. The centre section is actually just wider deck planks as it is on the Fo'c'sle. So that metal had to come off and be replaced with wood including completing the skylight framing Next, I've been struggling with weathering the deck. Decks are generally a sort of sliver grey, not the very yellow the timber is. To add to my misery, this photograph clearly shows the margin plank to be a dark wood, probably either walnut or even mahogany, note carefully the section by the depth charge support timbers This was not a good time to realise this as that margin plank cannot come out so it has to be painted. I would never normally use a painted timber finish next to an actual timber finish, but I had no choice. One the picture above, I also think the centre planks are the same dark wood as the margin, but in the end I decided this would just look too weird, modelling is full of compromises Still, I've done my best, it still need more varnish but here is how it came out. The maple planks have been treated with a very weak grey wash with a very small amount of dark brown, followed by some silver dry brushed and a final weak white wash in some areas, in particular the darker planks. The effect is a variegated deck finish that I quite like, I think it will work OK once all the deck fittings and clutter are added. The best bit is the margin plank colour now picks out the plank cutting in clearly, which is a nice effect, but doing it again, I'd use walnut, sigh.... It looks very brown in this photograph, but on the model there are a number of shades discernible, its not that flat. Anchor scallop picked out in white, at least that looks the part. So, overall a number of steps back and forward, it is ever the way these projects go Cheers Steve
  9. Great searchlight resource Pascal, value there for everyone. You may have these already, but if not, let me add a small addition from my own collection and Cheers Steve
  10. Is that a can of beer I see as ballast Nice chine moulding Steve
  11. Great photograph, love the crane and the rails for moving the ships boats around.. Fantastic detail, deck shoots are just the best source Cheers Steve
  12. Maritime terminology is literally a minefield BTW, you may or may not be aware that English is full of naval idioms which were made popular in the early 1800's after Nelson's victory at Trafalgar. Most people using them don't even know they are 18th century naval expressions, "to the bitter end", "in the offing" "its a long shot", "we were taken aback" etc,
  13. As promised, here is the completion of the deck planking. In all, about 250 individual planks were laid. The challenge is making the sides even and that is compounded by the fact the planks are knife cut (I'm guessing). This leaves a rough edge that doesn't take the sharpie well and also leave the plank width varying by ~+-o.15mm, which is noticeable in a 2mm plank and compounded across the nearly 50 planks width is material. So, each plank had to be cut and then edge sanded, boring, very boring...The planks were glued with medium cyno giving a little room to adjust before gripping (sometimes bits just gripped immediately, generally in the wrong place) Sounds like moaning, not really, it was a steady old job as they say, spaced over a few days. The fo'c'sle has a broad centre plank in the photographs, not sure why. Actually it looks like two planks, I had to make do with 3 as I didn't have 5 mm maple strip to hand, it won't matter much. I framed all the hatches/skylights and the breakwater and shield before planking to the frames, which is good practice. Here you can see the aft deck completed and the fo'c'sle features framed ready. Ahead of the wheelhouse you can see my angle mistake with a short infill timber. The removable deckhouse was cut back to fit the new opening. This allows me to complete the planking and still have the deck house assembly removable. It is a nice gentle fit, slips down almost effortlessly. Here I've completed the work to the breakwater and inserted the wide central planks to the bow. The rear deck and this section were planked from out from the rear metal walkway, then back in to the centre forward of the wheelhosue. Forward of the breakwater I worked from the centre out, one plank each side at a time to control width creep so as not to through the cut-ins off line Next came the fun part of cutting in all the forward planks, 1/3 across square. This is pretty fine work and stretches the ability of the wood as fibres break away easily and not always where you want them to. The planks were edged on the inner side and also on the cut in side which covers up some of this irregularity. Never use the sharpie on the end, the end grain sucks the black and spoils the plank. The natural gap left between the ends provides the same dark line Overall I'm OK with the finish, once its covered in rope and other equipment, it loses the focus it has now. Not doing another wooden deck for a while.... 1/4 inch scale is really the smallest individual planks make sense, but its satisfying to know I did it that way and not simply marked the planks on a ply sheet. The ply circle is the forward gun mount btw You can see the edge finish is not perfect, still I don't believe actual weathered boats were either. It still needs sanding and finishing which will tone things down somewhat. I've done a couple of experiments but I'm not happy yet. It is of course temping to just varnish this lovely wood but that would not look at all right. Teak goes silver grey when weathered so I'm trying some silver and grey wash effects to tone the deck down prior to sealing it. More on this later Then I returned to the roller fairleads and spotted this picture in my collection This is a great photograph and will really help lay things out, but it is an earlier subtype with a gun platform and the anchor in a hawse pipe not scallop. That said, the fairleads didn't change as other slightly worse pictures show. Now this picture makes it clear that these fairleads where on a single raised plate, not individual mountings as I'd made earlier. So they had to come off and be remade wiht this result. Those rollers turn btw.... Should study those photographs more closely.... Next major task is plating the rear section of the deck-house, should be fun Cheers Steve
  14. You're right Jeff,, I should have said marine flappy things... I actually think they may be Motorraum-Lufteinlassgitterabdeckungen , what say you @Jochen Barett? You gotta love German portmanteau words
  15. Slight change of topic from endless hull pictures (even I'm bored) so I made a start on the 3D print files for the build. First simple job, the engine room side vents that sit beneath the open bridge. This picture is a really clear shot of what these looked like (the flappy things underneath the life buoys are what I'm referring to). Actually quite hard to make in brass due to that mastaba shaped pressing in the centre so I've been lazy and opted for a print file. We'll see how well these come out, I might change to brass if they don't look right Here is my finished model. I'd love it to be a little crisper but material limits are at play and it needs to be printable (for reference the model size is 15 mm by 6 mm overall) so that eyelet is really tiny Next the DC racks. These Kriegsmarine racks are complex due to the rocker mechanism, RN ones are simple roll-off ramps Here are a couple of pictures showing them, the first on an R25 class R-boote in Norway (later war model, note gun shield in the background on the 2cm flak). See the chain that replaces wire where the handrailing needs to open to release, interesting little detail to incorporate in the model And a good shot of the back, not an R-boote this time but the rack is the same Here is my model The ends are different, note the lifting eyes on the ribs at each end. The three cross rods will be added using brass rod, very flimsy if printed. Again, the thickness is required by the material limits of the printing, it will look OK panted. The tie will be added from fine cotton It is printed in two parts, the DC and its cradle rockers are one piece and the rack is the second. This is what the actual print parts look like though they will be saved as separate models as the rotation and supports are different More boring hull pictures later, deck planking is complete (finally.....) Cheers Steve
  16. If I can echo that Pascal. The first stage is always study and study more. In the UK, the admiralty plans you can obtain show updates through the years so having the drawings is only the beginning of a long voyage (if you can excuse the pun). As vessels were modified over time, the drawings were (sometimes) updated, but some views not, so a full set of drawings contain inconsistencies. Unravelling this and understanding the vessel at a point in time is a serious endeavour. I can only begin to image the challenges you are overcoming for a battleship. Your work is a PHD and of course your drawing skills are unrivalled I enjoy each update, I've always been a sucker for drawings Cheers Steve
  17. Thanks Jeff, she is coming together now, you can start to get a feel of the boat building it this way. The hull form has a very narrow entry, quite a pronounced "belly" and a long flat tail (probably required by the original V-S propulsion system) with pronounced tumblehome at the stern. Three very distinct sections to the hull. I think she would have been uncomfortable in any kind of bad weather, no bilge keels to assist roll damping. Designed to go reasonably fast for the power available. Enough musings, that deck won't plank itself Cheers Steve
  18. Rules were made to be broken, I'm not such a purist actually, much more a pragmatist with a personal dislike of plastic sheet which never looks nice when used by me..... That said, there is a pleasure in using metal, weirdly, because it ends up imperfect and that imperfection perfectly reflects real life (try that one, Google translate!*!%.) Working models are not true scale models, this is understood.. The Darby hydroplane I built, (my last working boat and true scale) went great in a straight line, so could only be used on canals, enough said Prop shafts are always painted to prevent corrosion, model shafts left unpainted are just model shafts Looking nice Dmitriy, I was wondering where this had got to, keep it going, I want to see it on the water Cheers Steve
  19. Back to building.. First, the hull got some serious filling and sanding. This is after the first coat of white primer which helps show up the defects, so many defects... Then a final coat of white primer overall (and still more minor filling) Remember, I'm not going for a perfect smooth finish, I want some planking lines to just show through on close inspection. Then a coat of grey primer below the waterline And finally, black spray and matt varnish So, below the waterline is actually a fine base now but it will be re-touched with weathering. Above the waterline I've left it in white primer. This will be covered in Kriegsmarine pale grey overall and then the camouflage dark grey pattern added, this will of course be much later, time to move onto the deck The deck has a 3 mm margin plank that the planks cut into. 3 mm x 0.5 mm planks don't bend in that axis so I made the margin planks up from 2 x 0.5 (which could just be persuaded at the bow) and 1 x 0.5. Then I started the rear deck planking from 2mm (4 inch or 100 mm full scale) planks. I had a big debate with myself (no one else was interested) about plank lengths and joins. Staring at the pictures, I really can't identify plank joins at all so that was no help. I know in the RN, plank joins were staggered to repeat every 4 planks, with lengths of 16 or 20 ft generally used. That's a lot of joints as 20 ft 4 staggers gives me 5 ft between joins on adjacent planks. Didn't want so many joins showing so I've gone for 24 ft planks and a joint stagger repeat of 3, making the joins 8 ft apart. Excuse my thinking in imperial, old habits The sides of each plank are sanded and then edge lined with a Sharpie permanent marker to indicate caulking. Here is the start, framing is for the rear deck skylight which will be slotted in later. Galley hatch is still removable, it will be lined with wheel-rivet marked aluminium sheet later And later (actually much later...) One of the very many challenges with this approach of individual planks is getting the edges the same. Here I am at the boundary of the steel anti-slip decking more or less perfectly equal. I'm sure my luck won't hold at the bow. I've also been very lucky at the deckhouse intersection without needing to split planks, none of this is intended, it was pure luck, still I'm not complaining.. Forward we will have the fun of chopping the plank across the outer 1/3rd and cutting it into the margin plank. I've done this before with 2 mm planking, fiddly doesn't express the right level of frustration generated by this process..... Still, the result will (I hope) be worth it The exposed timber deck is one of the reasons I chose this vessel, its a slow steady process but actually very rewarding Cheers Steve
  20. Hi Kev, I've dropped in a couple of times on this build, glad I just caught up. It's quite amazing actually, kit or no kit, that amount of card work is something to be truly admired. The best bit (to me) is actually the slight unevenness of the plating, the natural waviness between the frames, so true to life. This is stuff no one bothers with normally, but its just the best feature of this build. I know all about build fatigue, have suffered myself in the past. Keep it safe and make notes of exactly what you were doing and the problems you were facing so when you come back, you can pick it right up again., Cheers Steve
  21. Mixing it up a little, I made a serious start on the main etching sheet with the sweep winch. Just thought I'd start with the hardest component and go down hill from there So, anyone for a 1/48th scale winch kit, 31 components plus some scrap tube sections and a couple of turned parts..... Prize for anyone who can work out the construction sequence... Hopefully, some more pictures of the hull tomorrow Cheers Steve
  22. Thanks David, In the end I chose the area local to the red circle to the left of the outlet, so grouping the openings in a similar manner to the S-boot which came from the same shipyard and shared many aspects of design Priming and finishing filling the hull now, pictures later Cheers Steve
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