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Steve D

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  1. An update containing lots of bits. Been mixing making stuff with drawing stuff, nothing very conclusive. Here is the forward hull fin that improved directional control. Brass and soldered to some of the double T section I used on Grey Fox for the bilge keels. Epoxied to the hull later Then, I decided to make the rear hatch from copper, can't etch everything... The hatch has a sliding curved cover which make this an interesting item to construct. As before, these are made around wooden bucks which are removed later. For copper I use soft solder mostly, it has a tendency to melt with silver solder heat Set-up below ready to solder And finished and cleaned up, wood still in place. The front side needs filing back later, see completed shots below Next, the actual hatch and hatch cover which is inside this housing And finally with the outer sliding cover made and attached This is all out of 0.3mm copper sheet Lastly on the build side, I installed the depth charge and mine hard rails. These are clear in the photo above as quite high and with a small step to the deck edge, a little more sanding needed but a start has been made I'm not sure how interested anyone is my 3d drawings, but here is the finished artwork for the 10 cowl vents, ready to print And my first pass through the smoke machine, dimensions fro an elevation on one of John Lambert's drawings and detail from a picture I found on line from a US navy instruction manual. I'll add some brass wire and tubing to this once its printed So, nothing major, just working my way round stuff I can do while I think through the etching artwork which I plan to start this coming week Cheers Steve
  2. With these MTB's the rudders are behind the transom so the propellers are right up against it. The horizontal plates above the rudders create a downward force at speed to keep the bow in the water. This design requires the props to be right at the stern and the rudders to be external. interesting design Steve
  3. Continuing the propeller theme, today I pulled the outer prop shaft outer mounts together These start as three 2.8 mm diameter tubes (ID 1.6 mm) 8 mm long and tapered @ 15 deg, forward, here sitting on the porp shafts (1.6 mm brass). Note, the internal shaft tubes have been cut back to length, they were oversize before. You will see a theme developing in my modelling, I always cut over size (length etc) and then cut back, file back, sand back etc. I've long since stopped trying to make stuff the right size before assembly, just too difficult... From the drawing I then filed a section of 0.8 mm thick brass strip to shape, well over length and then cyno'd it to two similar strips and filed the lot to an identical shape. None of this is really critical or I wouldn't be able to do it... These strips are then silver soldered to the tubes set up as shown below, remember the solder flows to the heat so heat the thickest piece away from it and suck it in . The brass rod is a packer to try to get the joint on the centreline of the tube. At the end I got these three, not identical, but pretty close, who will see? These have been cleaned up with a wire brush, solver solder loves clean metal so important to clean between stages. I've also added a little streamlining to the edges Then these were offered against the tiny drawing and sawn to length (or slightly over). Then they are fed down the prop shafts to see there they end up. This enables you to file the last stage away in very very small amounts, remembering that they will be mounted to 0.5mm strip so they need to sit back from their final position before soldering This is the set-up to solder them to the plate that is glued to the hull. You will see I've not bothered to cut the 0.5mm strip, easy to hold it steady away from the joint and cut it later. These strips are 1/4 inch wide btw I use a vermiculite block that is soft enough to allow drawing pins to be pushed in to hold things in place, these break up after time but last a year of so, about £15 each, anyone wants the links, let me know So, after soldering, they are cut roughly back with snips and then filed to final shape. For this sort of filing, I use a mircomaster drill and sanding disk, so that it is easy to take off tiny amounts They are attached with epoxy, I don't trust cyno for these, too brittle. The epoxy overspill will be cleaned up once set Another job ticked off, ready for the propellers Cheers Steve
  4. Broke away from the build today to draw the prop's and send them off to Shapeways for casting in bronze. These propellers are quite small, only 26 inches in diameter and 10 inches long (13.7 mm and just over 5 mm scale. The drawings I have are all too vague to be of any use bar the overall size but there is one image of the props of a similar MTB and I've used this as inspiration. Now, a word of caution, I am not clever enough to draw an actual marine propeller, that's way above my paygrade. But as I showed wit the S-boat and the SGB, I can get something close to work without a huge effort. First, I drew the hub, so far so simple. Then I sketched a blade shape that fills 100 degrees of the circle, which seemed about right. I then extruded that to 0.6 mm thick and sliced it into 8 slices. Then I drew an ellipse in each slice. Then, starting at the root slice which was rotated 70 degrees, I rotated each ellipse, washing out 10 degrees of rotation each time leaving my final slide (half a step) at 5 degrees. Then the ellipses where "lofted" to create a 3D blade and that was replicated 3 times round an axis and combined with the hub. Now, this is not how you draw a propeller, but the result certainly looks like a propeller and as this is a static model, I don't have to worry about it working, just looking about right. The fact that Shapeways will cast this in bronze actually means more to visualisation realism in my opinion than the exact shape. The picture below shows all the stages in the process (software is 123design, which is free and I'm used to it). You will see that the outer edge has a flat, that's the result of lofting the ellipses but I can file that easily to a smooth curve, it is tiny.. Obviously, there are right and left hand versions, just rotated the other way. The hub (or boss) is drilled 1.6 mm for the prop shaft, I'll turn the prop-shaft outer support on the lathe Anyway, $12.50 each plus shipping etc, should be with me before Christmas. With expedited delivery charge, they are £24 each, would be a lot cheaper in bulk. The Shapeways software does an auto-check when you load a file to ensure it can be printed, I hope the manual check on Monday works so that they can be manufactured Cheers Steve
  5. First, the planks are much wider than scale, I believe they were 6 inch planks, so ~3 mm, these are 5 mm wide for expediency But, my hope is that I'll still be left with the "impression" of diagonal planking, so not totally smooth, but also not massively in your face. The challenge with the sanding is not to remove all the joints (which is anyway hard) but some of that detail should remain apparent, in particular under certain lighting This is all I'm trying to achieve, an impression of the real vessel and a model that shows more detail as you look closer.. To a point, it should get better the closer you are Sometimes it works....
  6. Deck or wheelhouses always present an interesting challenge due to the number of strange shaped facets they have. The first challenge is actually working out what shape they are. The early war 70ft Vospers (30-34 etc) had a cranked diagonal rear and a curved wind deflector both of which are quite clear in this image In construction, they were made of plywood and then had some armour plate bolted to them. The wheelhouse roof was canvas covered. Well we can copy all that with ease. I'm using 0.5 mm ply for the main structure and intend to reproduce the armour plating with etched brass which will also incorporate the window frame detail. I'll use a linen handkerchief to cover the roof, I love 1:48th scale... I tend to make my deck houses removable as it makes final assembly easier, but the initial build slightly more challenging. That's why I incorporated the well in the deck, to receive the lower wheelhouse Here is my GA and expansion drawing of the wheelhouse The rear wings (to the left of this drawing) will be etched brass as they were metal on the full size vessels. The side windows were welded up in service and often covered with splinter matting for extra protection so I won't be cutting these out in the ply (cheating a little). The front windows do not need to be so accurate as the final form comes from the brass etching. A point on my build sequence, I need to make the pieces that need brass etching added before I do the etching drawings and the wind deflector is a key element in this, so making the wheelhouse early allows me to balance build with drawing work. The main structure is built around three transvers frames, glued together with spacers Sorry, a little out of focus. The curved wind deflector stumped me for a bit, so I've gone for a solid block of 6 mm sq lime sanded to the curve and cut out to allow for the door access. The lower frame slots into the well in the deck The sides actually run forward to the bulkhead and close those opening For the forward planes, I mounted a ply former that rests on the deck and acts to close it all up and strengthen matters. I'm using thin cyno (new experience for me, many glued fingers...) however, for edge to edge seams in .5mm ply it works well Here it is with the forward planes mounted The rear open bridge sits 12 inches off the deck, here is the base and side skirts fitted. Note the transvers 6mm lime wood needs sanding to the camber of the deck And finally installed on deck I love this stage as it looks so like the part completed real boats you see, plywood wheelhouse awaiting the next stage Cheers Steve
  7. Sounds good, the offer remains open for whenever you are ready. I'm learning a lot as I go as ever, so worth letting me walk across the minefield before committing btw, let me know who that guy is who's knows what he is doing, I'd like to meet him.... Steve
  8. The true alignment of the propeller shafts are key to the look of the boat and in particular propeller clearance. A tiny angle difference makes a big difference in this. I always set the holes in the frames for them before planking to ensure this angle is correct, then sheathe them afterwards. Also, not in this case, but on some vessels (like the s-boat) the outer shafts are not parallel with the keel but set at a slight angle, without the right alignment holes, I would just mess this up To me, this is simpler than trying to align the hole correctly afterwards Correctly, this hull entry has a fitting plate that slides over the outer shaft and covers the actual hull entry, I will probably etch this plate as it has surface bolts Hope that helps Cheers Steve
  9. Back and back to work First, continuation of getting the hull surface sanded and filled properly Looks good, but with all the different shades its hard to see the blemishes, so quick coat of grey primer And the problems jump out More sanding and a move to find surface filler (car body stuff) and its starts to take shape better shape Now, I'm not making excuses, but the effect I'm going for is not perfection, I want to leave a hint of the diagonal planking and also the odd blemish as real baots are like that. To my odd mind, plastic kits look too good and that impacts on realism. I'm probably alone in this view... Still this stage seemed good enough to add the rubbing strips in 1 mm sq lime Nicely defines the chine and sheer line, in particular round the torpedo cut-out, a very distinctive feature of this boat. In the shot below, I've also added the bow edge strip in 1 mm x .5 mm line. This is not a rubbing strip as the sides have, it is just a defined flat. The inside edge of the torpedo tube cut-outs is raised on the deck and these three join together as the second image shows. Then the chine strip is faired in with more fine surface filler to strengthen and complete the smooth lower hull form. Not really obvious in the picture, sorry So, I'm leaving the hull there and moving onto the wheelhouse, post tomorrow on that item. After that I'll cycle back to the scuttles and engine cooling water outlets which are quite prominent and an interesting challenge So far, so good Cheers Steve
  10. Sitting here in the sun having just finished reading The Kamikaze Hunters by Will Iredale. The story of the British Pacific Fleet in the last months of the war including of course Victorious. A stirring read bringing into sharp focus the work these vessels did during the war. If you’ve not read it, I recommend it cheers steve
  11. I did think that myself however there is an upper sleeve that locates the tiller and takes the bending moment. This sleeve only shows on one side from what I can see. I guess it could have been demountable but why go to that bother, still a little puzzled by this. It’s these little things that I love about this hobby one other feature that is very distinctive and mentioned a few times in the reference books are the coiled ropes on the forecastle and at the stern. Before we left for holiday, I dug our the rope walk I made many years ago. Will set that up when we’re back and have another go at rope making. True rope lays flat and curves in a way that braided cord can never do. Should be fun cheers Steve
  12. Thanks Rob. However, with respect you are wrong, if you were to do this, it would be better
  13. Hi David. Just caught up on your progress. Wonderful work, aircraft carriers are so complex, you have taken on a real challenge with this build. Very impressed with the result, it will be a special model
  14. When I'm in the zone, nothing stops me and I've been planning this for 3 months, wanted to get to a neat stop point before the holiday. This part was quick, but actually not much work really, I assure you is will slow down from here on
  15. К сожалению, стереть ДНК мне пока не удалось ...
  16. Many years ago when I built working models, I used a system sold for model airplanes consisting of a thin fabric and two part epoxy. A bit messy, but does the job and strenthens the hull tremendously. Sanding with wet and dry can create a glass like finish perfect for your boat while also removing your fingerprints. Most of my fingerprints are useless due to years of sanding, makes biometric door entry a real challenge.... Steve
  17. I'm afraid this is the last post for a couple of weeks as we are finally going on holiday after 15 months of home time. Still, I've got the project to the place I want to get to this week so that's good Continued planking the second side Then I cleaned it up ready for filling First round of filling complete and sanded back, Then I added two strips each side of the keel and one on each chine line and filled back to them and sanded a lot more. Then I added a coat of varnish to stabilise it all, this is the result Lower hull bell curve much better, certainly ok for this scale. The filling needs more tidy up, but good enough to move on to the deck The open bridge has a door leading to the lower wheelhouse, which if left open, might just show some inner detail. So, I've created a box oout incase I decide to detail the area, can't do it without leaving the whole... Interesting that even though the superstructure is all kinds of angles, this lower space is rectangular Deck cut and fitted in 1/64th ply, the paper is attached with frame mount which comes away easily as you can see the foredeck is now bare wood And so, here we are. The hull structure complete and ready for the next stage of deck house construction when we return. Good place to leave matters I worried a lot about the torpedo troughs but in the end, they have worked out really well, the sheer line is crisp and dips down correctly, at least that bit came out as intended, big improvement on the s-boat where I was filling and sanding for ever... Back in two weeks for more progress on this little project Cheers and thanks for following Steve
  18. Dimitry Ничего себе, только что познакомился с этой сборкой, отличное начало, я люблю деревянные корпуса, как все знают. Для вашего первого проекта это действительно отличная работа, молодец Hopefully Google didn't insert any rude words... Switching to English Great job, if I can help in any way, please just shout or PM me, I'll be following along As I'm explaining on the Vosper thread, diagonal planking is sooo much easier for hard chine hulls. At 1/35th, perhaps a double diagonal will give the best results. For the Saunders-Roe launch I used 1/16th balsa strips in two layers, https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235064525-saunders-roe-seaplane-tender which gives a lot of "meat" to sand into and so help refine the lines without adding too much weight. Cheers Steve
  19. Sure, what I mean is that the hull beneath the chine is in the form of a very shallow bell curve (for those that remember their maths, the point of contra flexure in a bell curve is here the gradient changes sign hence I used the word reflex, probably not the right word...), so the planks are at right angles to the keel and almost horizontal at the chine. Because I didn't install intermediate frames, the stiffness of the 0.5 mm lime wood means that this curve is lacking, in cross section, the lower hull is more like a shallow triangle. This is what happens when you try stuff. So, I'm left with the decision to forget about it or do something about it. I don't want to ditch the whole thing and start over, seems a shame as the rest is working out. Overnight, I've decided to lay some fore/aft planking along the keel and chine lines and then sand the curve back in. I think that, while not perfect, this method will give me a better lower hull form. As ever, filler is my friend We'll see how this works out and I will post the results. As I keep repeating, my models are all just the sum of my mistakes I'm glad the Fairmile thread helped, the diorama looks most impressive, good luck with the build! Steve
  20. More planking, is it boring, well yes, a bit. Still quite quick really However, as I think I've said before, there is nothing better for getting inside the mind of the designer than planking a hull. The shape comes alive in your fingers, one of the best bits of the hobby imho Lower hull both sides layer one completed And with the edges trimmed, bow blocks in place, and sanded roughly to shape, first coat of sealing filler added and sanded. Hull quite stiff now And a good start made on the upper hull to the sheer line. Note the planks sit in the pocket left by the over length lower hull planking. This join gets covered up with a timber rubbing strip later I've decided to add the rear deck after the side planking as its much easier to add the planks overlength and just cut and sand them back to fit the deck. It also means the deck ply will sit on top of the plank edges perfectly Anyway, seems OK so far.... This is a certainly a quick way to build a hull, though the hard chine shape does make it easier. Starting again, I'd probably add the intermediate frames as the lower hull shape has lost some reflex definition in this process due to the spans involved. Still that's why we try things out, to learn. However, I don't think anyone will notice it once the model is complete so as long as you lot don't tell anyone, I'm OK .. Steve
  21. HI Paul, In that case you might find some interest in my Fairmile B build of a couple of years ago Fairmile B. The hull on that boat was solid wood infill between frames and then externally clad in diagonal timber. The reason I went to the trouble of cladding it was in an attempt to show, in some lighting conditions, the effect of the diagonal planking that can be seen on the real vessels. Not in your face, but subtle. To be honest, that particular experiment didn't go that well as my heavy handed paint job managed to mask most of the cladding, though if you look close, some can be detected, But anyway, that was my intention The point I was trying to make is that once you embark on using timber for hulls, you move away from being tied to the vessels kit manufacturers think you want to build. A lot of people seem afraid to make the step to scratch-building and all I'm trying to show is that its relatively easy, not terrifying in any way. Once you make that step, you can build anything you can find sufficient information on to any scale you like. I like 1:48th as my mind is adjusted to what I can achieve in that scale. Kit manufacturers don't seem to like it much. Now I've seen very good scratchbuilt plastic models on this forum, @Dancona HMS Victorious is a beautiful model., I just don't like working with plastic myself is all, it never does what I want it to... So, build what you like any way you like with stuff you are comfortable with. I like wood for hulls, its what I do Thanks for the interest in my project Steve
  22. Hi Stuart, From what I've read it was two layers at 90 degrees to each other with a waterproof cloth lining placed between them. For vessels up to 120 feet of so, its advantages were more to so with rapid scaling up of production and lower skill requirements on the part of the boat yard. This because the planks do not need tapering, or in the case of hard chine vessels, really even much bending. They were also faster to build than say S-boats which used traditional highly skilled craftsman to manufacture. These advantages also apply to 1/4inch... Much above that length, the longitudinal weakness compared to normal for and aft planking would start to tell. So it was ideal for these fast launches and the Fairmile's Hope that helps Steve
  23. In the past I've used ordinary 2 pack car body filler but more recently, I've switched to 2-pack wood filler which is a lot cheaper and seems to be identical. It sets in a few minutes and sands very easily though it does generate a lot of dust. Once the first rough fill is sanded, I'll seal the wood with sanding sealer and then I can apply a further very thin coat of the 2 part filler and then sand to a perfect finish for painting I'll document all this in the build Cheers Steve
  24. Few hours planking, think its going OK with the 5mm x 0.5 mm lime strips I started in the middle, and worked my way towards both ends. No need to be precise as the overage gets trimmed off easily First lower side complete. There are s few cracks, the planks are not glued to each other only to the frames. At this scale the subtlety of the lower hull inner curves are not really coming out, but I doubt that will matter in the end Here is the bow section, it progresses quite quickly And here we are with it trimmed but still over size. The side planking will land against this over stretch and then I'll sand it back I fitted the two bow blocks on the port side but then realised that without the foredeck, the bow shape would be undefined, to I cut the foredeck out and glued it in place (should have done that first... That provided the line for sanding the bow blocks, here they are after filling (I said I had a tub of filler...). If you have it, may as well use it I also added some filler to the planks to make them more rigid and fill the cracks, this has had a rough sanding and is ready for the other side. So, not too hard, not too perfect, all about good enough. Actually considering whether I need the second layer of planking, will see once the first is complete and sanded Steve
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