Steve D
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Posts posted by Steve D
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Thank you for the kind comments. It's rare for me to actually be pleased with something I make, but do I love those guns. Now all I have to do is make the 12pdr even better...
So, as inspiration, I thought I'd share this image of a wonderful presentation model of a Victorian 12cwt 12pdr on a pedestal mount that I found on line
Just beautiful!
Cheers
Steve
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Long gap between posts, sorry
Progress has been slow due to a couple of boat related trips, one a visit to the Brass Foundry (more coming soon) and second a visit to Portsmouth where I was fortunate to coincide with the first pontoon day of the year. This is where Boatshed No 4 gets their collection on the water and visitors get to climb aboard and even take a ride round the harbour.
Anyway, I'm struggling with the Berthon collapsible lifeboat. I will write a full post on this interesting sub-project once I get something I'm happy with, meanwhile I've been filling in with deck equipment painting and miscellaneous punch-list items.
The first of these was the awning ridge wire stanchions.
The rearmost of these three sits aft of the rear 6pdr platform and has a curved frame supporting it
Which sits above the Wardroom hatch
I also painted the torpedo on its trolly
And finally started to fix stuff, the first being the rear gun platform
seen here with the first 6 pounder on its conical mount, some of the ready use ammo added until I ran out of 1.3mm thin wall tubing...
On the pontoon day visit was a steam pinnace from the 1890's. This mounted a Hotchkiss 3pdr which inspired the colour scheme for the 6 pdrs
So, jumping back to guns. The forward 6 pdrs on the photographs do not have gun shields. Here is the rear shoulder frame added to the casting
And here are all 3 6 pdrs painted and complete
These are little models in their own right, I love them, feel free to zoom in
. The white shoulder pad is made from Fimo btw. I should add a lanyard to the trigger.....
I also added the second quarter name letters and correctly fixed the props (though they are still removable at the moment). Plus I fixed the rudder (with a 10ba nut) and added the rearmost section of the steering chains to the tiller bar and glued the aft steering position together. I'm also much happier with the wheel painting which I finished with transparent rust wash that finally gave me the deep mahogany colour I was looking for
The railings are too white right now, this will be knocked back with a wash later
The next section of the steering gear is a chain attached to a running block that anchors to that rear fairlead and runs forward via a rod to the forward pulleys. Will be a fun challenge of the tiny type
So, nothing dramatic, just steady bits a pieces while I consider plan C (or is it D?) for the Berthon
Cheers
Steve
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That diorama is super impressive, amazing attention to detail in the tools etc...
The boat's great as well, nice to see a planked hull
Cheers
Steve
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3 hours ago, Jeff.M said:
Steve. I’m going to blame it on trying to go metric instead of measuring in good old inches
As an engineer who did imperial A levels, a metric degree followed by an early career with an American engineering and construction company back in imperial I ended up bi-unitary. I draw in imperial,1/4 inch scale but then need to make stuff in mm. 1.89 gets used a lot (inches to mm at scale)
Cheers
Steve
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On 11/04/2024 at 23:32, Jeff.M said:
The entire funnel base and the signalling platform forward of it are, as my English wife says "skew-wiff."
Jeff, This is sooo common, probably every model I've ever made somehow changes shape as you build it. Measure 3 times, fix and lo and behold, 3 months later you realise it's in the wrong place. Console yourself in the knowledge that no-one, and I mean no-one, can possibly know your model as well as you do. They will look and be amazed
just as you will in a few years when you look back at what you accomplished
Doesn't stop the annoyance at the time though
Coming on very nicely
Cheers
Steve
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42 minutes ago, Dmitriy1967 said:
I just couldn't determine the scale of the hammer lying on your desk in one of the photos
Ha, it’s about half scale. It’s one of the tools I inherited from my grandfather, it’s a watchmaker’s hammer
Cheers
Steve
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1 minute ago, robgizlu said:
Such clean precise work
Thanks Rob, I only see flaws, like all of us. I do want to document everything I’ve learnt for others to gain some guidance from.
Exciting day tomorrow as I have an appointment at the Brass Foundry, research for the next challenge, the process overlaps. More later
Cheers
Steve
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I think I'd better provide an update or you'll think I've given up
I'm at an odd stage, much is complete, a bit still needs making and I'm trying to hold off fixing things to the hull for as long as possible. Once I start fixing stuff, I will damage it, no question, so delaying fixing stuff is important. But, I want to fix things as it makes it easier to see what I left to sort out.
So, I'm wandering somewhat and not being very productive.
Still, a few bits did get sorted and some remade. This is therefore a mixed update
Little bit of pleasure, I painted the Downton pump and added a hose to the hose rack. The hose was folded canvas (AKA handkerchief) with a light coat of deck tan
I've been debating the rear quarter name letters that can be seen on destroyer pictures. None of the pictures I have of Havock show anywhere near this level of detail, but this picture of HMS Violet (a 30-know destroyer from 1897) clearly shows the practice existed on these early TDB's and that they were not painted
Now, if I had a brain, I would have added these letters to the etch sheet, but I don't and didn't. However, a rummage in my old etching drawer re-surfaced a sheet of commercial etched letters (which must be at least 20 years old) that have the right font (almost) and the middle size is more or less perfect.
This is the result (port side only done at this time). Possibly just a little large, but I'm happy with it
The other thing to notice from that picture of HMS Violet is just how thin the stern grating is. I mean its really thin. My grating that I was so proud of, now looks 1:24th scale
On the aft steering position, I'd made up a small coxswain's grating out of 2 thicknesses of boxwood veneer, coming up 0.9mm thick (or 2inch full size). So, I glued up some more and cut out a large 2 inch grid grating square, sitting here in its frame for assembly
Once sanded to 2mm thick (that is as small as I dared go) and edged, here it is finished with the first one as a comparison
This grating is to allow the steering gear to no interfere with deck working, so it sits on 6 double feet (these were on the etch sheet, but no picture, sorry.
Next thing to attempt was the stern jack staff, which also anchors the hand rail wire and the upper longitudinal awning ridge wire.
This is as fiddly as these things always are, the diagonal braces were installed with a 0.5mm wire and then soldered up, the wire then being formed into a loop to create the mounting for the ridge wire.
Here it is in place, unpainted.
And with the stern grating in place, wash-deck locker also made and glued to the grating. Much happier with that version.
Next I finally got around to making up the aft gun platform steps. This picture should explain why I didn't apply canvas over the entire rear deck. This needs painting, but I want to try some wood finished first, more later... I so want to start fixing stuff, but I must be patient
Last little side project, the meat screen
Check out this early photograph of Havock moored off Portsmouth, you can see a mesh box hanging from the awning ridge wire between the bridge and the forward funnel. This, I believe, is a meat screen (possibly veg, but more likely meat).. Careful measurement of this and another picture gave me dimensions of ~18 inch cubed
Here is my version before painting with a realistic knocked-about look
Better painted, but less clear in a picture
A few days ago, I promised guns.
Well, here is the first 6 pdr, with gun shield. You have to love brass guns, these really are too good to paint
I'm most pleased that the gun elevating lock worked out aligning the cradle and the gun mount perfectly. I have some wood to add to the stock and the leather shoulder cushion (brown fimo) but overall, I think this one really worked out well
Here is is in its place in primer. The ring on the conical mount is for ready-use ammo, will be added at the end
The forward guns don't have shields in the pictures I have of Havock, seems they weren't fitted. Once job less...
So, random stuff going on while I work though the assembly sequence and check and recheck and re-recheck
Cheers
Steve
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Love the naval details here Alun, and painted flags, excellent stuff
Cheers
Steve
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4 minutes ago, Alun Gallie said:
How did you do them
Thanks Alun, the name was relief etched in the brass, just about works at 1:48th scale
Cheers
Steve
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17 minutes ago, Andy H said:
but can't come up with words more fabulous and amazing
I’ll take that, very kind thanks
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Little update. Spent some time tidying up the deck, lightened the grey colour and gave the canvas a second coat which improved it all a lot.
Next, I set to work to finally solder the rear gun platform, the stanchions were still loose and the handrail was missing. This took another ply template like the one I used for the bow platform railing. Interesting drawing exercise as some of the stanchions sit on legs while others are external making the true locations of the ball tops not in a circle but on a series of arcs. As before I laser cut holes for the drawing pins so that the radius is spot on
That platform has 12 legs, lucky the holes were drilled from the original build template
Here it is in place. Note the raised section to the front to clear the torpedo tubes
Tubes and gun in place to get the right impression, now I need to put the 4 steps together
Behind the platform you can see the clear area for the aft steering position. I made the pieces for this assembly a long time ago but have now painted them
Grating made from 0.9mm boxwood, voice pipes added. On the drawing there is a line shown 2/3rds of the way up. I thought a lot about this and decided that above the line the internal colour would be lighter to help this position at night. White would stand out too much so I painted it the same pale blue-grey colour as the turtle back. I like the effect this gives. All made from brass bar the wheel and grating
The front has diagonal stays to mounting points on the deck
Cheers
Steve
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2 hours ago, robgizlu said:
There are definitely 3D printed inflatables available on Shapeways
I hesitate to mention it, but I also have a 3D model of the type of rubber dinghy used by the Kriegsmarine in WW2 if any one needs one
Cheers
Steve
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Nice clean finish Jon, on to the next challenge
Cheers
Steve
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11 minutes ago, robgizlu said:
That Corticene/canvas is the bees-knees
Thanks for the vote of confidence Rob, but I remain a little disappointed with the shrinkage. My hope is that when its all complete there will be lots of distractions on the deck (rope coils etc) to ameliorate the error
I believe the Corticene company was founded in 1895 (around the time Havock was launched). Searching for information on-line I stumbled upon a share certificate on ebay for the company, random or what!.
However, I believe the deck covering was either painted sailcloth or possibly a special canvas fabric made from coir. Removable coir-based matting with canvas edging was used on the iron deck of WW1 destroyers, I have pictures showing that.
Cheers
Steve
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2 hours ago, Alun Gallie said:
I found a spare cap tally in my memorabilia box so thought that was a good way to name it.
Love that detail Alun, v special
Cheers
Steve
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15 minutes ago, Andreas.R said:
One aspect that is not taken into account is how this model feels when you hold it in your hand
Thanks Andreas, as I’m painting it mostly on my knees I can tell you it feels very solid and robust, but not heavy
Cheers
Steve
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10 minutes ago, ianBke said:
shame I didn't join earlier
Better late than never. Still some cool stuff to build, I reckon at least 3 months left
Cheers
Steve
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14 minutes ago, gunzo said:
Chances are that the drynig varnish was the culprit
True but this time I varnished the cotton before I cut the shapes so that shrink had already happened. This was the pva, annoying
Cheers
Steve
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Canvas deck coverings all cut and glued in place now. Really, this stage could have been done better, the cotton, in spite of being varnished, shrank slightly as they dried leaving slightly exposed edges which is a shame but too late to change now. Something to bear in mind for next time to slightly over-cut them and them trim once dry.
Before painting, some stuck some waiting to be stuck. Clearly getting those decklight holes to line up was a task for a younger man....
And painted, still tidy up to do but I like the effect. The uncovered section aft of the funnels is where the dinghy is stowed upside down. Open hatches still not fitted, some still being painted
As as you can see, I painted the torpedo tubes and added some detailing, more to come, bit of dust around in this picture sorry
Lastly a shot of the sea ladder with it's brass name board on top (just visible)
Final work on the guns coming soon
Cheers
Steve
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40 minutes ago, Dave Swindell said:
Don't paint them! they won't work otherwise!
Just nice to see someone model anodes imho
I prefer the weathered version btw, I like boats to look real, not models from a shipping office window
Great finish Pascal,
Cheers
Steve
(just nobody mention the battleship......
)
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Update on the deck canvas. I finally completed all the aluminium edge strips
I have no pattern for the canvas to follow so this arrangement is pure speculation. However, this was probably done by the navy not the shipyard and certainly would need to be maintained by the crew as these will get worn and damaged. So each section has to be reasonable to handle. I've left the centre section clear past the funnels etc. Most traffic fore and aft would go down the sides. There are also reinforced arears of deck under the forward 6pdrs and also on either side fore and aft of the funnels. These are shown on the GA and I fitted plates there so I've left them uncovered. There is also a small area under the centre of the rear gun platform that could not be walked on, so I won't cover that, ditto under the stern grating etc etc...
Each of the resulting 12 pieces has to be cut to fit like a carpet and holes made for the decklights (all 40 of them) and the cowl vents hatched etc. I'm reckoning an hour for each section...
For the canvas I'm using cheap cotton ladies handkerchiefs, £1 each, varnished to stiffen them and prevent fraying, easy to cut with a knife
But before we can start that, the deck needs painting and the deck fittings picked out. For the iron deck, I've used a mixture of dark sea grey and metallic black, no aeroplanes so no blue-grey in the 1890's. You can also see that I've removed the liquid mask from the 40 decklights and cleaned up the brass outer rings, soo many decklights......
Looking at this image, I should have called this thread "50 shades of grey", might have got more clicks
These vessels were not colourful
For each area of canvas, I'm cutting a pattern in tracing paper and using it to transfer the shape to the canvas, which is then adjusted to fit. For the decklights, I invested in a set of leather punches which work very well to cut clean round holes, there are a lot of them to cut
Here is the first area in tracing paper, the holes don't need to be precise as they are accurately cut in the canvas. You can see I've also mounted the capstan bar racks
The cut canvas is fixed with weak PVA, like wallpaper. Forward section stuck in place below. I'm not fitting canvas between the torpedo truck rails, would have been very thin and hard to fix in place
Once dry, it gets painted a beige brown with a little red added. Nice to see it picks out the plate edges. This is the first coat, though the unevenness is probably realistic, still needs some tidy up and of course some black washes, no way to stop this canvas getting marked, but I'm OK with the effect, unpainted section in the foreground
Anyway, that's me for the next couple of days
However, to break things up, I've also been painting some components
This is the chart table which sits on the main deck aft of the funnels and was hinged down when not in use. How good was this arrangement in any heavy weather
The chart is a Victorian admiralty chart of the channel complete with dividers (just for fun)
I also painted the searchlight
Progress continues, slow but steady... I've been worrying about the canvas decking, seems it will work out OK, if painstaking
Cheers
Steve
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16 hours ago, Dmitriy1967 said:
They probably cursed the designers who did not give them a simple flat deck
Ha, I'm guessing they would have cursed them more if the flat fo'c'sle caused the ship to founder. Note how calm the sea is in this picture and how much sea is coming over the fo'c'sle from what looks like a small wake impact
Imagine what would happen in any actual rough seas, they were wet boats. The midships freeboard is less than 5 feet, now imagine how they would roll in a turn or quartering sea without bilge keels
Hard men
The anchor could be let go by releasing the stowage chain from within the capstan platform, no need to venture down that steep slope. Getting it back and stowed would be a different problem however.....
Cheers
Steve
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Time to talk anchors as I complete the fo'c's'le
The drawing calls out Hall's anchor but this picture (of another A class TBD turtle back) clearly shows an Improved Martin Adelphi anchor (hands up who knew that?), which is actually a cooler looking anchor all round
I have a scale drawing by Underhill of this anchor, which also features in Alstons Manual of Seamanship 1894 (its actually on the cover...) where it is simply called Martin's anchor, figure 279.
IMW collection have a brass presentation model of Martin's original anchor which does not have the tipping palms, see below. The "Improved" model had the tipping palms and the whole fluke assembly moved
So much information of no use to anyone but me. Love research
So, how to make two identical ones. I examined the fluke assembly and decided that while I could probably make it out of brass (given enough time and alcohol), the chance of me making two identical ones is near zero. So a compromise to my metal build, the fluke assembly gets printed...
Here is my 3d model
However, I'm not compromising on the shaft and shackle etc, that gets made in brass so it will stand my rough handling
Shaft held in place with 14ba bold, shackle with 16 ba screw and nut
Painted in gunmetal finish
This still needs the lifting shackle band added, will be glued in place.
Here it is resting on the anchor bed. There is a lot more detail to add to this arrangement as you can see from the first picture in this post, but this is progress, I like it.
Nice little interlude, back to those pesky deck canvas anchor strips tomorrow
Cheers
Steve
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HMS Havock 1893 - A class Torpedo Boat Destroyer
in Work in Progress - Maritime
Posted
I'm guessing, a very small one, watchmakers used these, I have a couple with blades less than 1mm across