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Steve D

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Posts posted by Steve D

  1. As I've said many times, I think my painting is a real weak area, I need to build some kits to practice more.


    Because of this, I hate showing work in progress during painting as all I can see are flaws.  Still in the interest of keeping the thread up to date, here are the progress shots on the main hull assembly


    Finished blocking out the primer




    And first couple of final colour coats, some edging to clean up still






    I'm using Vallejo acrylic paint with my own mixture for 507C/G45 and B15.  This is a base coat, the 507C will darken with weathering, hence I've made it light at this stage.  The pictures all show very white looking boats but the builders drawing reproduction has G45 specified for vertical surfaces, not White as the coastal craft history book indicates.  In the end, I opted for a pale grey which will weather darker and hopefully look OK (kind of sitting on two stools).  The B15 is intense to say the least, as it was with the MTB, again that will weather softer and become more washed out looking.  The colours in picture are a bit weird, in the flesh it looks a better colour match but of course is blocky and powerful at this stage lacking shading effects and washes


    The windows are a bit of a disaster at this point.  I didn't have any liquid mask, tried masking tape but gave up the struggle and just let the primer spray over to be cleaned off.  That of course removed the paint from the brass frames which  now need fine touching up after a second round of clean-up.  As I said, this is all work in progress, it will be OK, I have done worse...:suicide:


    Paint, I hate it, please no arguments over colour on this thread, wait until its finished


    BTW, getting that waterline straight took 4 attempts, the hard chine protruding moulding really confuses your eye





    • Like 12
  2. In response to a request I posted, the German marine forum has just thrown up a link to an archive of high quality shipyard photographs covering R25 class boats.  Incredibly useful stuff, of which at least 40 photographs are applicable to my little venture, amazing...


    However, it has sent me back to the drawing board on a number of details I'd got wrong, the venture continuers


    Meanwhile a further sneak preview of my work in progress, hopefully to illustrate the detail work involved.


    This is an extract from the GA sheet showing the stern deck layout with suggested locations for the minesweeping gear together with a scratch view showing the layout for mine-laying.  All equipment shown is separately drawn on an equipment sheet with multiple views.  It is soaking up hours and hours but I'm having so much fun with the project...  BTW, the mine rails are a simple lazy mirror copy, I'll amend that on the final version




    When I've had time to absorb the new information, I'll post some examples of the new pictures, they are seriously cool





    • Like 7
  3. Update on the painting, basic primer done and waterline marked in a top coated


    Hovering in mid-air on the gun mounts to spray




    Looking a bit rough still, this is only primer, those edges need a lot of work still...




    Slightly out of focus stern shot




    And a selection of deck fittings also in white primer, bridge fittings in the background, will be installed after final painting




    Quality of the prints are good, rivet detail on the hinge straps and catches all came out well





    • Like 11
  4. 5 hours ago, steve5 said:

    very envious of your ability

    Please don't be Steve, it's the only form of modelling I know how to do, so I bumble along trying my best to create facsimiles of these historic vessels.  It used to help me forget the stress of work, now it gives me interest in retirement and I do enjoy the drafting.


    I'm very grateful that some people find interest in what I do.  It has added a significant positive dimension to my little private hobby


    Cheers and thanks for your kind words



  5. OK, I've still not started painting, the smoke machine I made (from the SGB build) was too big, there must have been more than one size..  So it needed redrawing and re-printing


    Here is the new smaller one




    And the Holman projector was just not good enough, why did I think a printed barrel made sense.  So I modified the print and replaced the barrel with brass, much better.  Here are a couple of shots of the new improved projector on the aft deck






    The deck gets more cluttered once all the lockers bins and vents are added (will be fixed after painting).


    Here is a mock-up with most of the equipment installed, really to see if I need to adjust the deck with locating blocks before I fit them




    Few more tiny details to fiddle with then I really will start painting. 


    Custom decals being shipped from Rothko and Frost, I can print the numbers here but not the white draft marks so I may as well get the whole lot done in one go as its the same price.  I'll probably use #75 as the actual boat as I have multiple pictures of that example





    • Like 10
  6. Thanks Jochen, I'll take a look.  


    Regarding the lay of ropes, to my mind that comes way down the list after hulls that don't have cooling water openings, decks without any clutter, flags that stick out like cardboard and rivet heads 2 inches (sorry 50 mm ) or more across....  Don't even get me started on plastic stanchions :doh:


    For my own models I have two rules:

    1.  They should seem realistic, ie give an impression of what the vessel might have looked like; and
    2.  The closer you look with a human eye, the model should get better by revealing stuff not noticeable from afar, 

    Just to say again, I really appreciate your help and support.  The Kriegsmarine is not a subject I know anything about and I do want to make these drawings (and my own version of a build from them) as accurate as I can.  Otherwise, what is the point?





    • Like 2
  7. Wow Jochen, very cool video :thumbsup:, R-23 is the earlier type but excellent background.


    Those buoys are very confusing, but now I'm thinking the items on the engine room casing roof might actually be boat fenders rather than danbuoys.  There is insufficient height to store danbuoys there upright....  it would make sense to store the fenders out of the way on that railing






  8. Final little gun project, the forward 2pdr, technically a MK II*C gun on a single Mk XV (power) mount.  This is the same as the forward gun on the steam boat I built last year so I already had the artwork for the mount and the 3D model for the gun which Shapeways cast in brass for me.


    Here are the pieces ready to build, plus a misc. assortment of 0.5, 0.7, 0.8, 1.2mm brass wire and 1mm, 1.5 mm, 2mm, 2.5mm brass tubing plus some 4mm brass rod turned down on the lathe and drilled for the trunnion pins (Grey Fox's gun is in the background as a guide).  Included below (on the right) are two mount flanges that I'd didn't fit as they are missing from the photographs.


    Mostly the assembly uses solder paste but a few tiny bearings need silver soldering




    First job is to clean all the parts, bend the fold lines, solder the four side pieces into two sides and solder the three base rings to the centre trunnion




    Next the sides are soldered to the base making sure the are in alignment with a dummy trunnion




    The gun is then soldered to its cradle and the outer packing disks soldered in place.  At the rear of the cradle are the ring mounts for the spring rod.  Love that cast gun....




    Now the fun starts.  On the right hand side is an elevating cylinder that actuates a crank to elevate the gun




    Still from the right, the spring cylinder is installed, it pivots on the forward holes etched in the sides.  I inserted a 14ba hex head bolt in the front to represent the assembly bolt




    On the left hand side is a similar crank with a second crank that moves the gun sight in unison with the gun elevation.  All those pieces are mobile, plenty of fiddling....


    You can also see that I've added some checker plate to the gunners position (O gauge commercial railway etching)




    More complete shot with the ammo box added (3D printed) and the gun sight installed




    The seat is mounted on a beam that runs across the rear (I used some 2mm brass channel) and the gun shield is glued in place (it has had some rivet straps added to the face)




    That's actually just shy of 50 pieces in total and about 8 hours of fiddling, dropping pieces, over heating and melting thin tube etc etc etc.


    Still nice once finished




    Time to start painting






    • Like 14
  9. 39 minutes ago, Jochen Barett said:

    mine sweeping gear (Ottergerät https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Räumotter and Scherdrachengerät),

    It was only a question Jochen, no need to get carried away....:jump_fire:


    I'll be modelling a minesweeper, not layer, it seems mine sweep gear information is available.. 


    However, I want the plans to be as complete as I can make them, for others


    sweep gear



    Thanks for your help, it is really appreciated





    • Like 2
  10. 1 hour ago, Modelholic said:

    Surely the dingy tied alongside/ladder vertical would be much easier!

    I guess the slope probably makes it easier to manage the different rise and fall of the dinghy vs the boat.





    • Like 1
  11. 15 hours ago, Jochen Barett said:

    No good deed goes unpunished.



    I agree those are not explosive buoys, too small and why place them on the engine room casing roof?  They probably are danbuoys but I don't have any information on Kriegsmarine danbuoys.


    I have this image which I'm guessing shows danbuoys




    But looking at this image makes it more puzzling still




    These things seem to be hooked on to the upper rail, perhaps the danbuoys came in a packed from with the rods separate for ease of handling and were assembled before use.  They are very ungainly to have stored on deck otherwise.


    Anyone have any thoughts on this or illustrations?


    Cheers and thanks again for the interest in my little puzzle



    • Like 2
  12. 3 hours ago, Jochen Barett said:

    I agree, there is a good chance we see a "Sprengboje D".

    Thanks Jochen, it is the right size from what I can see.  Below one added to the drawing and a photo, looks right to me


    explosive buoy2 r29aedit


    Not sure what else they could be..


    I wonder what colour they were. any idea?





    • Like 2
  13. I copy of German Warships 1815-1945 Vol 2 by Erich Gröner arrived yesterday,  This contains small (I mean tiny) line drawings of every German vessel type including the R25 class.  This clarified that in the R25 class, there were 7 sub-types :suicide:


    It turns out, the one I'm drawing is the 1940 subtype, R151-158, with three rudders and various other very minor details.  Using that tiny drawing, I was able to tidy up the positioning of various details (deck hatches, bow gun etc) and I'm now very happy with the position of all major elements.  So much lined up perfectly that this cannot be random, I'm sure I'm homing in on a pretty accurate drawing.


    These vessels were designed to carry 10 mines when not sweeping.  Taking the drawing of the EMC mine I used for the S-boot, I was able to draw the mine rails and with a 3 degree inward taper towards the bow, they fit perfectly with the sweep winch, stern roller assembly and machinery access hatches.  That again gives me confidence that the extent of the steel rear deck I've assumed is also good.  Most of the deck is planked, but the stern section behind the 2cm gun is steel


    This exercise is like doing a jigsaw with lots of missing pieces, trying to make stuff align with photographs and logical equipment positioning.  I feel I'm on the home straight now


    Below is a sneak peek of where my GA has got to, still very much work in progress, but hopefully it provides some idea of the challenge. 




    There will be 4 sheets in total, GA, Lines, Frame cutting sheet, and equipment detail.  I'd underestimated how much work this actually is, I salute the late John Lambert, he was a star 





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  14. 12 hours ago, Courageous said:

    we used 'heat shunts' when doing that sort of job,

    I do know about heat shunts Stuart, but its a good point to mention, thanks.  The drawing pins I hold stuff down with often cover existing joints and perform a similar function. 


    However, for this mount, I found it hard enough to just hold these 3D constructions together without also considering drawing heat way from existing soldered joints.  Still, it came together in the end





    • Like 1
  15. 28 minutes ago, Dmitriy1967 said:

    Steve, is there a photo of this installation from the side of the shooter's chair?

    Not that I've found, actually I think the chair was rocked back slightly (I may amend the model now that you've pointed this out :hmmm:)


    There are not that many pictures of this mount on-line or in books, but I did find this one in the IWM archive which is quite cool







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  16. After much struggling tiny moving parts that would not behave, I've sorted the twin Oerlikon mount...:phew:  This one, I came close to giving up on I can tell you.  Those tiny bits kept managing to get themselves lost, or come apart when not told to, my dislike of inanimate objects increased once more


    It starts with the rocker assembly that holds the gun-sight and moves when the gun is elevated.  This rocker assembly is two etched parts soldered together with packers and the sight holder


    Not sure this shot helps really




    This is then assembled to the top of the mount with an actuation arm attached to a lever on the mount main hinge




    At this point, I stopped taking pictures, partly because I was too grumpy with it all and also because the pieces were too small to focus on (see the tiny arm to the left of the pencil next to the spare rocker).  When will I learn to etch multiple copies of small parts that need soldering  :banghead:.


    Some time later......⏰⏰⏰⏰⏰




    Notice the second actuation arm that runs from the torque tube at the base of the mount to the gun cradle.  This is what elevates the gun and caused more hair loss, I've not got much left to lose👨‍🦲.  These arms pivot on 0.5 mm brass wire in 1mm tubes, all too small really...


    Also note the 3d printed seat (lazy) and the adjustable foot rest.  What is missing is the actual control box which sits inside the gunner's enclosure.  I'm debating whether its worth including (I probably will, just not in the mood now)


    Couple of other views, check out the shackles on the mast 






    The cast guns are removable still as I want to paint them separately so they are just resting in place, will be adjusted a little when fixed in place


    It is the weirdest looking gun mount ever, glad that's behind me. 


    Normally, I build guns able to elevate, and I intended to this time, but those multiple joints just defeated me, if I'd not started gluing, I'd have never got it together..


    On to the 2pdr....





    • Like 11
  17. 30 minutes ago, Modelholic said:

    kit bashing the 1/72 Airfix E-Boote into a 110T class R

    That sounds like a feasible plan Tom, the lines clearly come from the same design office, having drawn the E-boote myself I can see the family resemblance.  I'm puzzled there is no R-boote models available (well above 1/700 scale which is just a waterline block with some other blocks on it).


    Brass is easy, you should see what a mess I make in plastic...





  18. Wasn't able to get in the workshop today to finish the Oerlikon mount, but I did get some drawing work in.


    This is my attempt at the Kriegsmarine DC and chute assembly as fitted to the R-boote, as example of the detail I'm going to on the whole drawing set.  It is based on various drawings and pictures so like most of this vessel, it contains a degree of conjecture but I'm confident of the size


    My aim for the drawing set is for it to be in sufficient detail that it needs no further references to model.. The beauty of drawing everything in this way is that my etching artwork will be really fast as I will already have all the heavy lifting done and in CAD.  Similarly, the 3D printing design work can be simply scaled off, saving loads of time


    The drawings will take some time to complete, but if there is interest, I easily produce copies in 1:72nd scale in addition to the right scale (1:48th of course   )


    dc chute drawing





    • Like 4
  19. 15 hours ago, Dmitriy1967 said:

    I have already started choosing a soldering iron..

    Personally, while I have a couple of soldering irons, I mostly use an Oxy-Propane torch with a mico flame nozzle, soldering irons won't go near the temperatures needed for silver-soldering and once you get used to using the heat, it's 10x faster than a soldering iron on soft solder or paste....


    Still I agree with all the above, clean surfaces, use flux, heat from the side you want to draw the solder towards and make sure the items are touching as it's very hard to make solder jump a gap.  Also as Jon says, the challenge is not the actual soldering which should take seconds, it's the holding items ready to solder.  As you can see I'm my images, I tend to use drawing pins to get it all ready. For small scratch components (wire tube etc) I cut long, solder and them trim back with a micro drill and cutting disks or sanding wheels.  So much easier.  The other thing I have is have a spray water bottle ready to cool the work before touching.  For soft solder, enough heat can be retained (especially is one side is a heavy turned part) for the joint to still be mobile and moving stuff early (I'm always impatient) ruins the joint






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