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Steve D

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Everything posted by Steve D

  1. Ah retirement, the main problem I have is where to put all the boats. Still, the offer stands if you ever find the time. Btw a Dog boat is on my list, probably next year Cheers Steve
  2. Thanks Jeff, this was always intended to be a pair, same length, different purpose. Makes an interesting comparison of form I think Thanks Steve, if you want to make your own, I'd be very happy to assist I'll happily take that, thanks Rich Thanks Bertie, if you're read my threads, you will know I make a big point about straightness, bananas are for eating... Thanks Steve. the finish on kits is always better as the substrate is perfect to begin with. With scratch-built wood and metal the challenge is always about getting the level of finish fine and even. There is no point in a small fine detail area, no matter how good, being let down by another area that is rough or where the same level of detail is lacking. This is what I enjoy about this type of modelling Cheers Stuart, considering your work, that means a lot Thanks Beefy, it's always tough taking a (nearly)perfect model and and making it dirty. I know I have a lot to learn in this area. However, these boats were not clean and new looking, they were battered, stained, rusty and dirty. I believe trying to simulate that adds realism and so I carry on This from the master of finish... Thanks again for the great comments, I'm glad what I do is of interest. While I labour on with the R-boote, I've picked up the two drawings easily findable for the 60ft RAF fast pinnace of WW2. This has peeked my interest, in particular I love the derrick for recovering crashed aircraft parts, what a great combined model that would make...... If anyone has any further information on these vessels, please forward Cheers Steve
  3. Stupid typo, now corrected. 1/4 scale would be 18ft long, just think of the detail you could get into that model.... Cheers Steve
  4. Just the follow-up thread from my recent build thread BPB Gunboat Build. My photography is equal to my rigging skills, i.e. not great. Still this time I've made a little effort to show the boat clearly without distractions. This project started with the Haynes Manual I'd bought while researching the Vosper MTB. This excellent book contains reproductions from two shipyard drawings. These were enough to challenge me to build it, unusually, there are no commercial model plans available... So, this is what I started with (the plan was scanned and scaled to 1:48th), it's pretty clear and good enough to work from. The second sheet has the lines... IWM also has some detail drawings scanned , a real help on the deck-house shape I won't repeat the build details here, they are fully covered in the build thread, still, for those who don't want to work through that, the boat is mainly made in wood and metal, as with my other projects. The hull is diagonal planked in cherry and maple. In the right light, the faint diagonal lines on the hull are just discernible. Custom brass etchings were used for the gun mounts and other details, the props were cast bronze to my drawings and some components were 3D resin printed at home. The rope coil is rope made on my little ropewalk from 6-strands of fine off-white cotton. It's an emergency tow-rope anchored to the water-line tow point The model is hand painted using Vallejo paints and washes. The blue (B15) and pale grey (507C) are my own mix, The white is Vallejo Off-white. After a lot of studying photographs, I decided the hull was grey while the deck-house is white. The cowl vents are blue. As ever, who really knows, but these colours do align with the photographs. The modelled was weathered using (mostly) Vallejo washes and metallic chipping, I like my models to look lived in (painting is a journey, I have a long way to travel but I think I'm getting better albeit slowly). The ensign was hand-painted on linen using fabric paint The only commercial items I bought were the grab-rail stanchions, fine-scale O gauge railway items. The model is mounted on a French-polished stop-chamfered oak base and turned brass pillars. The forward pillar has a steel pin that runs in a brass tube set into the keel to keep it balanced and allow it to seem to float. The details plate was supplied by Engraving Studios who do an excellent service for ~£14 all in. The case is made but I've not had the opportunity to collect it yet. The boat poles were added since the build thread, they are brass and lime wood. A couple of buckets have also been added, for cooling gun barrels. The figure climbing into the "dustbin" is added for scale, he is from Shapeways Finally, this thread wouldn't be complete without the companion model I build last year, the Vosper MTB, for comparison. I think they make a great pair side by side, both are ~ 70ft, they often operated together Thanks again to all those who commented and helped during the build and of course for the many likes. I'll be back soon with more progress on the Räumboote drawings and build Cheers Steve
  5. Beautiful finish How's the canoe coming on? Cheers Steve
  6. Just keeping this thread warm, here is a rather low-res sneak peek at some of the detail work on the drawings As I said before, it's become a labour of love... Cheers Steve
  7. OK Dmitriy, you've had your fun, now get back to the boat. That brass will not solder itself.... It's a great paddle btw... Cheers Steve
  8. Thanks Jerry, next thread ask questions, I want to make this type of modelling more accessible and will happily explain anything at great and tedious length.... Thanks Ian, there is always time to rectify this character flaw Thanks Steve, next time the painting will be better, I promise Thanks Steve, I'll take that
  9. Dmitriy, For soldering a prop-shaft sleeve to its mount (in particular one on a working boat) you need to use silver solder. Soft solder such as you have used will crack over time (it work hardens) plus as you have found out, it is very messy as it melts too soon and blobs about (technical term). Select low-temperature silver solder (sometimes called hard solder), and use plenty of flux. This comes in crystal form, is dissolved in water and simply painted on with a brush. I use 0.5mm silver solder wire, but for that joint, 1mm wire might be better. Place the wire on the cold side of the joint and apply heat to the other side, you will need to get the materials very hot, so that they glow red, and with solder will melt and run towards the heat, filling the joint and making it stronger that the brass. If you cannot get the wire to stay in place, you can hold it in a pin chuck and feed it in once the brass is hot enough, it will melt as it goes in. If you heat the wire directly, it just melts into a sphere, and causes the release of bad words from your mouth. Silver-soldering is the easiest form of soldering, much simpler to control and messy soft solder. I use paste a lot as Steve suggests, but it's really only good for joining flat faces together, i.e. filling the crevice between two sheet surfaces. It wouldn't work for this type of "T" joint, the result would be too weak. Soft solder wire (as used by plumbers for copper pipework), is really only useful when you have a gap to fill, it does that well, but then takes a lot of clean-up. Silver solder is not so great at gap filling, (it won't jump a gap) but if the items are touching, it is fine and invisible if done correctly. The secret is clean work, enough flux and heat. Good luck and ask anything you want, I'm always very happy to help Cheers Steve
  10. Thanks Jon, I'll be back soon Thanks Dmitriy, I will continue to champion traditional methods, it's all I know how to do Thanks Bertie, I really enjoy writing this stuff up and if people find it entertaining, my job is done
  11. Well, all builds come to an end and this is the end of this build thread. The model will be back with an RFI thread once the base and stand is made. Today I finished off the rigging. The wire-rope handrails are made from SoftFlex Softtouch 7 strand thread sold for threading beads. The Very Fine size has a diameter of 0.25mm and is used for the stays and Fine (diameter 0.36 mm) was used for the rear handrails. These are finished with loops that are clenched up with thin wall brass tube. 0.8 mm for the very fine and 1 mm for the fine. In the past I've struggled cutting these thin walled tubes (0.1mm wall thickness) but this time I made this cutting jig and it worked a treat with the piercing saw The model still needs a few more rope coils, some helmets, a bucket and my signature sailor to allow people to understand the scale, but for the basic vessel build, it's done The forecastle has the emergency tow rope coiled up and held in the waterline bow fitting. This rope was made up on my ropewalk, described in an earlier thread. The anchor is stowed on the starboard ahead of the breakwater with a length of ground chain and a rope coil. It's all had a coat of matt varnish to level up the finish. Dirty I know, but hopefully it is reminiscent of a working boat in wartime I'll be back soon with more progress on the Räumboote thread but meanwhile many thanks for your interest, comments, advice and likes. I hope I've managed to impart some useful information in between my ramblings. Cheers and thanks again Steve
  12. Thanks Stuart, I'm doing the best I can. Hopefully, if I produce a 1:72nd scale version, I can persuade some members to kit-bash an s-boat, the hulls are more or less the same Cheers Steve
  13. The last item of brass, the anchor. This is the 5th one of these I've made so getting used to it now. Articulated with 16BA nuts and screws The revised transfers are on the post so hopefully, I can get them on and varnish ahead of rigging, nearly done now Cheers Steve
  14. Odd jobs Canvas finished off with a coat of B15, love the wrinkled effect Then cut into sections and crammed into the deck bin. Checking the pictures, this really is what they looked like, I guess they didn't bother to be too neat, wet canvas is a bugger to fold anyway Then I turned my attention to the mast and rigging (I hate knots...)... First, painting the ensign, same as I have described previously using Tulip fabric paint and fine linen (from a cheap handkerchief, £10 buys enough handkerchiefs for a lifetime of flags).. This flag is 4ft by 2ft so quite small After attaching the hoist, the flag is soaked in weak PVA and hung to set its shape. This small hand clamp seems to be just right for achieving a realistic shape (I may have mentioned before my dislike of flags that stick out as though they were starched ). Plus the curled up shape has the added benefit of covering up any painting mistakes I made up the signal flag blocks from a scrap of 4 mm x 1.5mm walnut with the end sanded down to around 1.8 mm x 1. The ropes are then tied in place before the each length is cut off, sanded flat and drilled out 0.5mm for the hoist line. Before drilling, I rolled the blocks in cyno to harden them and darken the wood. Helps prevent the walnut splintering when drilled. This is all tiny stuff for me.. Everyone on this forum is better at rigging than I am, even the ones who have never tried it...... Very unhelpful out of focus picture that doesn't really help... Finally, secured to the signal yard (from 1.2 mm brass wire, tapered in the lathe). The yard stay lines and of course the main mast stays (in wire rope) will be added when it is finally fitted for good, just about the last activity I guess it'll do. Note I've also glazed the windscreen, probably needs a little more sanding flat on the top edge. The glazing sticks above the metal frame Cheers Steve
  15. In case anyone was thinking I'd given this up, they couldn't be further from the truth. I've put hours into the drawings, below is a quick update of the current state of play. Main focus on the GA sheet (still incomplete) with a start made on the sections There has been quite a bit of re-work, in particular the wardroom/galley hatch was completely wrong and many additional details added. As you can see, I'm detailing each component with separate 3-dimension views (more will go on the sections sheet) with the intention for the drawings to stand alone as containing sufficient information to build a fine-scale model (together with photographs of course). Because I don't have full drawings to copy, each detail needs to be adjusted by reference to the (now a staggering) 120 photographs I've managed to source and copy. This takes a lot of time and modification but hopefully the result will be pretty accurate. This is becoming a labour of love, but one I'm really enjoying... 2-3 weeks more and I hope to commence the build with laser cut sections. The fourth sheet will be a frame cutting plan that I can modify directly into a form that 4D can cut from. Cheers Steve
  16. Thanks Rob, For completeness, here are the other two pictures I took. Not sure they add much, but maybe worth posting nonetheless. If I ever built at a larger scale, I would definitely have a go at this level of detail Cheers Steve
  17. Sorry, just realised that wasn't particularly helpful as I didn't bother to photograph the raft before final assembly. To help explain what I mean, here is the 3d model that I printed, spaced as it would be for the mesh Hope that helps explain what I meant Cheers Steve
  18. Progress on the Carley rafts, a new design incorporating the rope floats and a removable platform. The platform is supported from the raft by a rope mesh so you can get in and not be washed off, would be very cold of course. Here is a picture of an actual raft preserved in the Lisbon Maritime Museum, see the small wooden floats on the grab rope So I had this mad idea to make a conical rope mesh, would probably work in 1:35th scale, but it really doesn't scale lower than that. You can see my attempt in the background of this picture of a sheet of canvas (tissue paper and weak PVA) that I will use to cut out the gun, depth charge, Holman projector etc covers. These are stowed in the open bin on the port side which is empty right now, more later when its dry. The wrinkled effect is accidental but nice (I did smooth it out a little more)... Anyway, all I did in the end was wind rope round and round the base to simulate the net coiled up. Also remember to add a painter to the raft, coiled up inside. No good chucking it over the side to see it float away The paddles were carved from lime wood wiht a small rotary sanding disk and hand sanding. Here is a strip of wood with the shape stuck on so I get the the same. The paddles are 4 ft long. And the end result, painted, weathered and secured in place with 4 ring-bolts The lighting in my workshop is terrible, hopefully the RFI pictures will show the colours off better. In the flesh it looks right to me The hull has had more wash treatment, the whaleback deckhouse paint actually looks OK now, it could of course be better, but I don't think it stands out as bad. Outlining the windows with a narrow black wash line helped, ditto on the life-belts There is a faint hint of green wash on the waterline, easier to see in the flesh so to speak Rothco and Frost had missed the white printing on the draft marks but are sending a new set, once these are on, I can varnish the hull and sort the small amount of rigging out Nearly done Cheers Steve
  19. Thanks guys, I just see the mistakes like we all do... Meanwhile, a little more progress, actually the main boat is now more or less complete bar some final weathering, wind-screens, hand-wires and rigging, flag and dressing up (ie Carley floats, rope coils, buckets etc (got to have a bucket), and the solitary sailor for scale. Rudders and props installed. Most of the deck equipment is fixed now, for final weathering Depth-charges in-place And a profile shot in front of the drawing to prove I got the size right... The paint will have to do... Cheers Steve
  20. Bertie I'm always nervous painting let alone weathering, but my aim is always to give an impression of a real boat in wartime, not a builders model for a museum. Real boats got dirty, rusted, got bashed, were covered in ropes and folded canvas. I'm making a real effort to improve my painting with this one, I hope it will be worth it, it is a long journey... Cheers Steve
  21. Hours of detail work later, the model looks much the same in the photographs, just a bit dirtier. In the flesh it looks better than these pictures but is still very much work in progress. Still, in the interest of openness, here is where I have got to.. Where do you stop with washes and chipping etc? Probably another day, trying to achieve an even finish. There is a lot of detail these pictures don't show, tiny areas of rust etc. Certainly more work is needed on the hull, the pictures of the real ones show they got very streaked I'm pleased with the main armament and the smoke machine looks quite good Mast still not fitted, just resting in place. The decal sheet didn't print the white markings, don't know why, I've asked. They've always been perfect in the past... Sort of holding me up varnishing the hull I still have the Carly floats to put together and the anchor to make (last brass bit), plus the small amount of rigging and hand lines, then on to the stand Cheers Steve
  22. Wow Bertie, that must have been a marathon, many thanks for the torrent of likes I don't know why so many people are worried about soldering, there are far harder skills to learn. Plus, if you get it wrong, just unsolder it and try again.. Cheers Steve
  23. Ok, my first attempt at chipping, in an area where it really can't be seen, the bridge forward bulkhead Well, its not great, but at least it will lift what is otherwise a very dark space. Also note the faint diagonal lines on the hull, an indication of diagonal planking, without it being in your face. That works for me Flag locker installed And the forward bulkhead and gratings completing the bridge, sorry not a great picture And after studying this picture some more, the strange fitting wiht four insulators on the whaleback roof is for the aerial, just discernible in this picture. Note the cowl vents are dark, a little weird, so presumable B15, I've gone with that So I installed 4 brass wires (0.25mm dia) down the mast, they are ready to install once the mast gets fixed. Below another bad shot showing the guns painted waiting for improved chipping effects. The guns are matt black wiht a little gunmetal and metallic black mixed in. Painting of the Holman projector and smoke machine progressing Bits of progress Cheers Steve
  24. little update from today's tidy up of the paint. I added the roll-up window blinds from a sheet of flat papier-mâché, bit fiddly but the result has random creases that I think represent canvas quite well. Also note the IFF aerial and a start made on the 2pdr paint. Forward lifebelts glued in-place and a lot more fuss over the breakwater Ladder frame glued in place, chest just resting ... More tomorrow Cheers Steve
  25. Just caught up on this thread Bertie, great clean build and tidy finish, very well done... Re the quote, like others on this forum I'm sure, I get that feeling. When you are engaged in making something, you are sooo close to each detail and of course each mistake, its hard to appreciate the outcome. Let a few months go by, look at it again, and you will be amazed you could actually do that. Take a few years (or 20 in my case) and you'll find you simply cannot believe it was you... Cheers Steve
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