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Steve D

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Everything posted by Steve D

  1. Dark grey deck is the right call Beefy, add a little hint of blue perhaps. Are you going to weather it? cheers steve
  2. Building these models entails an unknown number of decisions including notably exactly how to treat the items that are represented differently in different photographs. The depth charges are a good case in point. Most, but not all, wartime pictures where the boats are carrying the DC's, show them wrapped in canvas covers. Now, I love the way these DC's turned out, but part of me says wrapping them will be a more realistic rendition of a vessel on active service. So, I've been quietly torn for some time now. Anyway, I've decided to compromise and cover some, not sure how many, maybe only two. At least one picture I have shows some uncovered so this decision can be rooted in reality (to me at least) and they do add another point of interest. Here is a picture (later war model) showing them covered What is also shown on this picture are armoured window covers, which of course I should have etched but hadn't noticed them until recently,, more later... Back to the covers. This is a great opportunity to make some stuff from tissue paper which you all know I love. So, here is the mould in jelutong, varnished wiht sanding sealer and sprayed with mould wax ready to lay up This mould wax is brilliant, sprays on and dries in minutes, PVA won't stick to it, reapply each time And here are 4 made up over a couple of days. The great thing about this technique is they are all individual, different creases and they slip over the printed DC's easily so I can decide right at the end how many to cover (probably 2...) And to give an impression of what this looks like, here is the fo'c'sle with one fitted after some paint and black/umber wash In the distance you can see the window covers installed. They were made up from scrap brass, bit tedious as there are 10, still its good to really scratch build stuff from time to time. I'm working my way round the deck house assembly (remember its still removable) doing some chipping and weathering in between other stuff, the outside still needs work Earlier I talked about not fitting the main mast as they seem to have been unshipped by most wartime vessels, sometimes replaced by a short signalling mast attached to the wheelhouse rear wall. This needs blocks and flag hoists. On the last couple of models I've felt that these flag hoist blocks were too large so I've gone really tiny this time. Here is some 1 mm sq walnut that has been sanded slightly thinner having the block ropes attached The cyno hardens the wood so it can be drilled (0.4 mm hole) for the hoists Here is the final assembly still in the vice, this will only be fitted right at the end or I would just break it That's all for now, I may post something tomorrow if I get time but then we are off for 2 weeks to Cuba for a milestone birthday, so updates will have to wait until we return Cheers Steve
  3. Ah the mysteries of naval camouflage... I'm no expect but I believe the diagonal patterned block colours were placed to break up the overall shape and so impact the accuracy of range finders, others here will probably know more. The gun shields were added to the r-boats very late in the war, so they were sort of an after-thought, probably based on crew losses The winch has more work and weathering, but it is taking shape nicely Cheers Steve
  4. No theme to this post, just random updates.. First I made a new source discovery, WW2 Photo Album Series number 17, E-boats and Coastal Craft by Paul Beaver. Some cool new images I'd not seen before. Amazing that after 9 months I can still discover new pictures, below a few interesting views An overhead view of the engine room casing and wheelhouse, great shot if a little covered in netting This confirms my belief that the open bridge area was planked. Other things to note here are the absence of the main mast, the ensign staff and most importantly (for me) the two bulbous vents on the rear of the engine room casing. These are obviously shown on the dock-yard pictures but I'd not seen them on the later war camo images so I thought they'd been removed. Well, here they are, so I've made them, picture later This overhead shot love overhead shots...) of a late war R25 with gun shields and a central gun position shows the triangular camo shape on the bridge did not extend to the skylight running along the front of the wheelhouse and is reflected on the hatch shield, all decisions I'd made The RF direction finding aerial on the front of the wheelhouse roof seems to have been added to some vessels towards the end of the war (in front of the identification flag), I'm personally not including it but its worth knowing about Lastly, the best picture I have of a sweep winch in action, this model is very close to the one I've built from the drawing I found. I think this picture is early war as it still shows the full mast which later war vessels don't ship Anyway, talking about the winch, here is a shot of my winch getting its first two cables These are Beadalon 49 strand beading wire 0.021 inch dia (which is exactly 1inch scale). You can see the printed packers that reduce the amount of wire I need to wind around the hub. Here is the winch resting on the deck. Ignore the weathering, it looks terrible in this shot, more work needed on that steel deck. The lines in the drawing I have guide through shackles, they will be terminated with a wire loop much later Sometimes it's nice to just make something from bits of brass. Here are the anchor winch handles, checking the fit. They are stowed on the rear face of the breakwater, forward of the skylight And here is the anchor winch, anchor and chain stopper installed. I'm getting a bit more adventurous with weathering Here is a before and after shot of the Flak RUL, too much perhaps, still I like it Last part of this update, the signalling searchlight. The actual projector is printed and really, I pushed the detail too far. It's very fragile (3 broke in my clumsy fingers) and the detail has the danger of showing up other parts of the build But the real challenge was the legs. These could have been printed but then they wouldn't last through to the RFI thread... So, brass it had to be, 0.7mm dia. This is the fourth attempt, only two horizontal braces, the other two I just couldn't work out how to solder or glue in place without ruining what I'd done to that point, hence the 3 scrap ones. Picture wiht better lighting. This is temporarily mounted on a brass plate that has holes which are identical spacing to the previously fitted mounting tubes on the roof (0.9 mm tube, 0.7 mm ID) that the legs slide into. Note the power cable running down the leg, brass wire from a wine bottle, don't through that stuff away, its really useful. In the background a little more weed detailing has been added to the waterline. Oil stain to come More random updates in a couple of days Cheers Steve
  5. The 1/48th scale dog is coming, my collection would not be complete without this iconic type. My next project is a diorama that I will be starting in February, plans underway but don't tell anyone, its a secret... I expect the dog boat to follow that, so check back mid-year. I've not seen that book, will get myself a copy, always nice to feature an actual vessel rather than just a type Cheers Steve
  6. Thanks Rich, good advice. I get so little practice at painting as the models take so long to produce from scratch, I feel its my weakest area. Need to knock out a few kits and just focus on the painting bit I guess Cheers Steve
  7. At some stage I have to get the final assembly started, but a precursor to this is weathering the hull because once I start adding fine components, I'll just break them handling the hull. I'm always nervous at this stage as Dmitriy's dog (if he has one) is better at painting and weathering than I am. I hope I'm getting a little better, but being so self-critical means I can't see it, sigh... Anyway, this time I'm using a range of washes, some product, some mixed from weak Vallejo paint in a semi-random manner. Checking wartime pictures the rubbing strips and bumpers got hammered which is logical. After attempting this with paint, in the end I just took some 400 wet and dry paper and lightly sanded with long swipes in one direction through various coats of primer and undercoat achieving a hammering, touched back in where it seemed too prominent.. Franking it may look a bit of a mess, but I think a realistic one, the shipyard would be upset to see the state its in. This picture of R178, (different camo scheme) gives an idea of the look I'm hoping to get near. Note the stub signalling mast attached to the wheelhouse, I have one of those... I also touched in the deck, in particular the breakwater and hatches with black pin wash, some super tiny patches of rust and the darkened the deck a little, in particular the scuppers and round the depth-charge cradled beams which would have been hard to mop. It's all random I know. I also highlighted scratches on the rear deck aft of the sweep winch and in the round-over stern, I guess all those wire ropes would have not been kind to the paint, ditto the anchor scallop and a little sanding on the leading edges of the rudders etc. Generally, as with my other models, I want a working boat to emerge but not a shipwreck The pictures aren't great, but hopefully you can see the effect emerging.. The fo'c'sle in particular looks better in the flesh so to speak. Those light ends of the dc beams are covered by the cradles.. More tinkering needed on all this, in particular the green water staining on the waterline needs more emphasis and different shades of green. The hull has had 3 coats of dilute matt varnish to flatten everything in these pictures No going back now Cheers Steve
  8. Progressing very well Pascal, love those projectors. One challenge you may have is with the comparison between the printed railings and the etched ones which may make the printed ones look somewhat heavy. Just wondered if you have considered this and if so, what is your proposed solution Cheers Steve
  9. While it looks big and somewhat clunky it stays still while the gun elevates and so needs that large opening to continue to catch the shells Cheers Steve
  10. Time I posted an update of my progress, or lack of My stanchion plan didn't work. I had planned to solder 1mm tube to the top of 0.8mm tube, drill a 0.5mm hole though the latter and mount it on a 0.6mm spike soldered to the triangular etched base,, perfectly, 60 times... That was never really going to happen, but as it turned out, my jig for drilling the 0.5mm hole just broken drills so it went in the bin and I bought 60 commercial stanchions. However, these all need turning down in the centre and base plus filing flat at the top and drilling the top hole out to .8mm before soldering to the etched base, so not free of work, but much easier. The rear two that sit either side oof the roller fiarlead needed further work to allow me to fit a 0.8mm tube below the lower hole so they could be glued to the 0.6mm spike I'd left sicking up from the outer rollers. Well, that worked, eventually... Here is my set-up for turning the stanchions down in my lathe, the upper ball in a tube for support, 10 down, 50 to go.... It's quite quick actually, just boring Then I spent an interminable amount of time fitting the chains to the wheelhouse roof forward stanchion extensions, too many things moving in mid air for my cllumsy hands Here's a really unhelpful angle of this detail, also showing the beginning of the wheelhouse planking weathering, searchlight still needs making Just visible is one of the three water hydrants (red thing below the life buoys) and the gangplanks installed in their brackets and the strange white circular stands that sit above the life buoys. I think these are directional stands to help read a bearing of something being observed, any thoughts? These were actually bolted to the upstands which were made from 16ba bolts, sweet... Finishing the first Flak would wait any longer, in particular the shell catch net. I had etched a frame for this though it is really too fragile. I spent a hour online buying a range of net samples and then stumbled on a net bag in the garage that actually looked just about right so I used that. This tiny item has just occupied much too much of my remaining time on this planet, but the first one is done. Not neat enough, but it will have to do Then the gunners shoulder rests that I'd etched looked horrible once complete, so they also went in the bin and I scratch built replacements from some brass tube and some ridiculously small silver soldering This is the net frame before the netting was added, about 8mm cube. Netting to the upper right. The gun is in the background with the replacement rests and gun sight fitted which is unclear in this shot, sorry And here it is made up and fitted in place Its a bit rough where it attached to the frame, but so were the real ones, bad work = super realism T'other side, I may add some shell cases And with the first round of painting done sitting in roughly the right place on the deck Alternative shot with the gun on the f'c'sle, better view of the chains which still need painting of course. Chain stopper in place, been fiddling wiht chains and the anchor winch as well, still work in progress there but nice to see that area looking busy Overall, a frustrating few days, sigh... But I'm pleased I actually got something made and didn't bottle and leave the net off (I very nearly did..) Cheers Steve
  11. This is an interesting observation and a key distinction . Weathering is not the same all over, hulls were scratched, dirty and the waterline had weed and rust while the decks and superstructure were kept pretty clean, in particular pre-WW1, it was a major thing to be proud of and it kept an idle crew busy. I think in war-time, this would have slipped somewhat on smaller vessels but the battleships didn't actually get into action that often so lots of time to paint Cheers Steve
  12. Painting this vessel is a huge challenge, very impressed wiht the start you've made Cheers Steve
  13. Ceiling fixed and library back in commission. However, sorry, no luck on engineering layouts but I did stumble on these pictures which you may not have seen. They are from a warship pictorial of ML2840 and Brave Borderer in Warship Volume IV from 1980 Not wonderful, but all pictures help in my experience And this is ML 2840's bridge Cheers Steve
  14. Sweet Kev, not every model has to be large and complex, small and simple leaves room for class imho When you're done, can you make a full size version for my garden? Cheers Steve
  15. David, You've probably seen this, but in case not, Cheers Steve
  16. That resin printed chain looks the business, it's incredible what can be achieved these days with this technology Wise move on the railings, I would just break them, probably near the end when a repair is really tough to do well Cheers Steve
  17. The French used green a lot, makes for a great finish and a nice change from boring grey and red... I've seen a lot of French ship models in France, some fascinating takes on design in the pre-dreadnought era.. I bit bonkers perhaps but fascinating nonetheless. BTW, the RN had some weird flights of fancy as well, it was a crazy time Great model coming together Pascal, looking forward to seeing the end result Cheers Steve
  18. 25 years of collecting will do that..... Cheers Steve
  19. Water inlets and water outlets are a nightmare in general. More, they are very often omitted altogether. For steam turbines, the water inlets are massive and below the waterline with grills protecting the pumps. Very few models include them, I've never understood why, its on my list the flat flags... Unfortunately, due to a ceiling problem the builders are sorting in my study, my reference library of naval books is unusable right now so I can't access any relevant material and I'm no expert on gas turbines but what I do know is that there are many reasons to provide an opening in a hull. These can include: Engine cooling (intake and outlet), clearly the largest Secondary and ancillary engine/equipment cooling Firefighting intakes Bilge pump exhausts Flushing lines Overflow ports (fuel, potable water etc) Heads overboard (toilets) Galley drains Deck drains to name a few. Some of these services will be manifolded to reduce the number of holes needed, some may feed tanks that are emptied in port etc, it all depends on the secondary services design. However, in general, such services would design for redundancy so single openings that if they are blocked or damaged would endanger the vessel are unlikely imho It is an area that is probably least understood unless you have actual shipyard drawings, specifically the services mechanical and piping layout sheets. The only solution (unless you have these or dry-dock pictures) is to be logical in the placement of holes and rely on the fact that no model is perfect, they are there to give an impression of the vessel... Later next week when my ceiling is fixed, I'll take a spin through my reference material and see if I can find something of more use, I have a number of naval mechanical handbooks but they are mostly pre-war, still you never know Good luck in the search Steve
  20. That's very cool, such an ugly aircraft. It was my first flying model powered by a rubber band, only 56 years ago.... Cheers Steve
  21. Be sure to burn the trash afterwards, temptations etc....
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