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Steve D

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Everything posted by Steve D

  1. Annoyingly this is slightly out of focus, but you can get the general idea. Hull mounted on turned brass supports and the masts and yards made of various sizes of brass wire. They look a little heavy here, but they are pretty much to scale, I think the white paint makes them look larger somehow. Anyway, this is primer, they will be painted a golden wood colour in the end. I've spent most of the time on drawing the deck house and deck planking, hope to fit those tomorrow, its a sweet little model. The deck house is a block of lime wood, with the detail drawn in colour
  2. Perhaps a little too much s**t, can you clean it up a bit by any chance? Still looking great Kev, I think you've found your vocation, ship wrecks Steve
  3. Hi Tomas As a scratch-builder myself, that's some very impressive work, in particular at 1/72nd, it's going to be a special model when complete Steve
  4. Quick update, the hull is complete and painted apart from varnish, I've yet to add the rudder or make the prop (going to be interesting....) but I'm quite pleased with this bit. I've spent a few hours today on the timber wheelhouse, (how do you guys work at these scales? it's ridiculous... ) Not ready to show yet, still needs major fettling I thought and then just decided to print the deck planking... Question, what's 174,143,96, answer, the RGB code for teak Steve
  5. I believe it is a straight reprint Dave. There is a lot of stuff about visiting Germany and being wined and dined by Nazi's that I don't think would have made it to a post-war update Just found a picture of Valdora as she is now, operating as a charter boat in the Mediterranean The model will of course look just like this Steve
  6. I'm working on the drawings for the schnellboot model, but I can't just do drawings, too boring. After my post-build clean-up of the workshop, it was just begging to get dirty again so I'm fitting in a little project I've been meaning to get to for some time, a ship model to go in my eldest daughter's dolls house! At nearly 40 with a daughter of her own, last year she rediscovered the dolls house I made over 30 years ago in our loft (of course...) and is really into it, helped by her 5 year old. Naturally, she asked me if I could make a model ship in a case for the drawing room (
  7. It's looking exceptional, with the exception of the sea, those blue waves are altogether too chunky and string-like
  8. My mistake, should have read it more carefully. I'm not used to these small scales, only borrowers work that small
  9. Rob, 12 links is actually quite coarse. Below are a few examples from my chain locker stock The brass chains here are ~30 links per inch, the black one is a little less (~24 I think) but very fine and may be better for your model. From memory I got these from a fine scale model railway site, but checking my email, I can't seem to find the order reference, sorry. If you can't source them yourself, let me know what length you need. I buy this stuff for stock so I always have some to hand, I'd be happy to let you have some if it helps S
  10. I've read that also, I believed they were to allow a boat to be deployed as a rescue boat while the vessel still had some way on her in case of a man overboard. I fitted one on HMS Medea (WW1 destroyer) Excellent fine detail work there Rob, that scale is too small for me to even consider
  11. Removing naval property! surely that's illegal... Looking really nice Kev Steve
  12. Post-script After that post, I realised that I'd not closed the story on the mystery box. I still have no clue what it's for or what I does, but I thought making it might help (in copper, naturally) That is to the drawing and it does bare a resemblance to the pictures. Here it is in white primer on the deck where it goes (could it be a tool box for the torpedo tube possible?, or stowage for boat fenders, it is right by the gangway after all?). On the best picture, you can just make out that its on short legs so 1 mm x 1mm brass angle was used. T
  13. 46 years at work without a gap and hardly a day missed, makes a nice change to have the time to indulge I've never had so much time on my hands
  14. Thanks David, hopefully, you won't have long to wait, the Schnellboot thread will start next week. I started this one with the intention to provide all the information necessary for others to make a similar model. But, to be honest, the guns among other things were quite hard and probably not suitable for a first scratch build. I've been studying the S-boat and it certainly could be a first scratch build. My hope is to make it available in component form if others want to build one (think ambitious kit). The frames will be a CAM sheet from 4d or similar, the etching sheets will
  15. Thanks Stuart and of course to all the other kind comments. These coastal forces models need to be joined by the enemy to place it all in context. My research into the Type 38 Schnellboot (without the armoured cupola) is at the drawing stage now, I'll start that thread next week. Overall, it's a simpler model but the hull lines are quite subtle as I'm discovering with the drawing At 1/48th scale, that's a model ~ 28 inches long, nice size, pretty much the same as the Fairmile B Steve
  16. Thanks for the kind comment, 25+ years in and I'm still learning and making more mistake than components. Really, given the time and energy I spend, I should be better I just hope people feel this technique (use metal for metal and wood for wood etc) is not just possible but assailable and so not limit ambition to kits Steve
  17. Update part two I paint my ensigns, here is the linen set up for painting, the fabric paint lasts a long time when you only paint a flag a year at most, these tubes are 30 years old and still fine, a lifetime purchase... First side done Once painted on both sides, the edge is painted with varnish to prevent fraying and its cut out, soaked in weak PVA and clamped in position to dry And finally, installed on the mid-ships jack, which to the pictures seems to be where they were run up Also in this pict
  18. In case anyone wondered, our phone line and internet connection has been down for almost two weeks now, very frustrating and not a little debilitating for the small amount of work I still have to accomplish... Still progress has continued on the SGB. Stanchions are all done and wired up, For those how didn't read the Fairmile thread, I use split pin stanchions from James Lane. These come over length and need to be soldered together and to a base which I've etched. The whole process is repetitive and fiddly, this vessel has ~ 60 to do, in three different heights, som
  19. At least you don't have to worry about over-doing the weathering Excellent work Kev, looking forward to seeing how you mount it to display
  20. There is a lot of weathering needed on a model that is 3 ft long! I've been at it for a few days now, I'm pleased with the result, but photographs in that light don't really do it justice It is certainly more 3 dimensional with the highlights (if that even makes sense!). Progress on final assembly is also now taking place as I varnish the components. Mast not weathered yet in these shots. Dark aluminium is my new favourite colour. Used to highlight and chip the edges of the white painted metal to define the edges and make them stand out, you can s
  21. Coming together nicely Kev I'm sure you've watched these (this is part 2 of 2) but in case not , thought you might be interested Cheers Steve
  22. Its a good question! As I get more confident, the weathering gets more intense. Real ships (in wartime) were dirty and the hulls rarely got the attention they deserve. Most models are too clean, but once you start, its tough to know where to end.. The challenges just get more complex
  23. Working my way round the superstructure items with the weathering. Takes some time, challenge is getting the effect even over so large a model, maybe too much, who knows? Certainly she is looking lived in.. Big discovery today is dark aluminium for edging/chipping the white painted metal . The wind deflectors look really good after these touches, though hard to see in this shot. Touches added to the window frames, create a more 3D effect by lifting the edges. Both guns in this shot weathered now, with a little oil wash to the moving parts
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