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Steve D

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  1. Starboard side planking complete Now I admit to being lazy when it comes to planking as this is not going to be seen, it will have fine surface filler and paint applied. Really I'm only planking the hull because: I enjoy it; It covers the ply formers which have a nasty habit of showing through no matter how much paint is applied; and No matter how careful the fine surface filling it, the odd horizontal line will still leave a faint shadow and given the actual hulls were fore-and-aft planking (as opposed to diagonal planked), this reflects reality in a soft way So, back to being lazy. Each plank should be tapered but life is too short and tapering 0.5 mm strip is simply a nightmare. So I only tapered filling pieces. The planking is in 5 mm and 3 mm cherry, the narrow strips used for the bow flare and the round of the bilge, areas where the curvature is high Here are the first strips laid in place around the forward rubbing strip And this shows how I dealt with the expansion needed bilge, see lazy... Strips are glued using cyno, held in place with masking tape Gap filled And done, sanded and a single coat of sanding sealer applied This will be rubbed down and a second coat applied prior to primer. The filler is added after the primer as this latter shows where is is needed Back upright, love the colour of cherry wood On to side two Cheers Steve and before you all suggest I leave it natural, I'm definitely painting
  2. Cheers Rob , but just give me another day or so and you'll see it planked in cherry wood, now that's beauty, will be a shame to paint it..... Thanks Steve
  3. You should see the mess I made in the garage , it's more or less a toxic area that now cannot be entered without a hazmat suit. My workshop is at the top of the house so dust levels are strictly controlled by the need to continue to be allowed live in the house Cheers Steve
  4. More progress on the hull. The deck was cut out and glued in place after a lot of sanding to make the sheerline look right. This time I opted not to fit a sheer strake between the frames, probably a bad call, much easier to use that to get the sheer line smooth Cleaned up with the deckhouse in place The bow is still lacking definition. The line of the knuckle is tough to do. In the end I taped it and filled to the tape to get is roughly right, then I added the base timber for the rubbing strake which sits on the edge of the knuckle. This gave me a line to sand against, without that I would have been lost Much filling and sanding later, its getting very close to right. I've added a coat of sanding sealer to act as a foundation for the planking which I will glue in place wiht cyno. The surface still has a few minor blemishes, but these are covered up by the planking. As long as it feels smooth, it will work. Note the bow blocks were jelutong not balsa, its a harder wood that is easier to get bow curves right The stern lower hull picture shows the amount of filler needed between the frames. There is a tendency to hollow between the frames when sanding as the balsa is so soft compared to the ply. This is tough to avoid, but filler fixes the problem. The prop shaft tubes have been faired into the hull with more filler This shot compares the hull to the full size example above, not too bad I think Lastly, the stern round-over was cut from a block of jelutong and glued in place. It still needs a little filling to smooth it in place. It seemed to me easier to round the stern (plan-view) first and the cut a block to match the curve, lots of compound curves going on here Somewhere in my dim and distant past (~25 years ago) I bought a 1 ft by 2ft plank of 1 inch thick jelutong, I can't remember where. It is still going strong as I use is sparingly. Hopefully will see me out, goodness knows what it would cost today. It is almost as good as boxwood when it comes to sanding or carving, wonderful stuff The lower hull at the stern is an odd shape, very flat and actually a little hollow. I'm guessing this was driven by the requirements of installing the Voith Schneider propulsion system which needs a flat bottom section. Even though this vessel has conventional propellers, the lines were the same and that hollow is necessary to fit the prop size without a clash. Overall, its nearly ready for planking, probably one more filling round needed as a last tidy up Cheers Steve
  5. Hi Guy, Very clean work there If you feel like 1/48th scale scratch building, check out my MTB and MGB threads. I have all the artwork for laser frame cutting and the etchings, happy to provide sort of a short kit... Cheers Steve
  6. Some time and plenty of sawdust later here is the hull about 90% right As I've said in previous threads, sanding a hull really helps you get inside the head of the designer. This hull looks simple, but the lines are actually quite complex and subtle. There is a distinct hollow to the stern where the props are and a pronounced tumblehome. Forward the lines fill out very quickly and sanding revealed that the frame 3 lines are slightly wrong as a slight hollow appears when looking diagonally from the keel up, more than should be there. I've amended the drawing to deal with this and will correct the model with filler. Note those prop shaft tubes are actually inner tubes, The final tube slips over them and will be smoothed in with filler The knuckle on the bow is really hard to sand properly. What I have to do is draw the knuckle line on the hull and use filler to perfect that shape, nothing is ever easy. See the picture below to understand the challenge here. Note the excellent finish they achieved considering this was wartime, impressive eh? Anyway, here she is on the building frame And back in the workshop with the deckhouse in place Looking at these pictures, the block between frames 4 to 6 looks to be too full at the bilge. All this can be sorted, just time, sanding and filler. As always, fingers are the best tool for confirming the shape. This is the beauty of this method of construction, it allows you to adjust lines before planking, very useful when not working from actual builders drawings. As the lines I drew came from three drawings, I'm actually quite pleased to get this far without major adjustment Next stage is to fit the deck so I get the sheer line right, then back to the hull final shaping before planking. The deck will allow me to get the stern plan curve right before carving the round over stern. I also need it to get the anchor scallop right Cheers Steve
  7. Thanks Rob, I hope the finish is as clean as your builds always are. Re the depth charge rack, it actually has a subtle difference in that the charge is held in a rocker rather than rolling down a simple slide. Its an interesting design with added complexity that may have been to prevent accidental loss in bad weather Cheers Steve
  8. OK, I'm back and back to work. Completed the balsa block rough cutting and shaping. You can see from this picture that this model could easily be turned into a working model, lots of space for running gear. Lots of dust and sawdust, I even wore a mask The shaping at this stage is very rough, still a long way to go but the knuckle is starting to take shape The laser cutting burns the ply black, so it is easy to see when to stop sanding as the black lines disappear I also sent my drawings off to be printed. They still need some work, but are easily good enough for me to work from and having them on the wall allows me to check them more carefully than I can do on the screen. Show below on my magnetic wall with the books I've used as source material This is my first set of completed model plans (normally I just do multiple scratch views) and I'm actually quite happy the way they came out. They are better than many plans I've worked from in the past Cheers Steve
  9. Thanks Bertie I also have mostly information about RN vessels so this is a voyage of discovery for me. Still, the early R-boats clearly show their motor yacht lineage which I like and I get to build a wooden deck which is great Cheers Steve
  10. Well Stuart, as they say, "to err is human but to really scr*w-up, you need a computer". In my case, both apply... Still, back to the build and the last update for a bit as we are off for a short break in Spain. More work on the wheelhouse, this time the roof which will be removable until quite late in the build (certainly after the cladding is in place). This was made with transverse beams to hold the curved shape and an outer border timber to help form the rounded edge The support beams for the roof decking were also installed and sanded flat, also helping to maintain the shape (0.5 mm ply roof) The companion-way opening is also included, I'm going to fit out the interior and leave this open (probably...) Here back in the hull frame I'm still staggered how large this is (about 12ft by 14ft), still it also contained the radio so I guess it makes some sense Next the inner corners of the longitudinal frame were reinforced as those outstands need to be removed before installing the balsa They are useful to help the frame slot together but interfere with the balsa Which I started but ran out of time, so it stays work in progress until we are back. Always rough at this stage, plenty of planning and sanding to go. It's quite a big hull, comparable (actually slightly longer) with the Fairmile B but with much finer lines Cheers Steve
  11. Hi Guy, Nice workshop, its very important to get this stuff right, I'm on 5th iteration (and house) and I'm still improving.... I've been reading up on the RAF ASR service recently and stumbled across this on Amazon The sea shall not have them which is full of footage on ASR launches, might be worth checking out. Also worth watching is "One of our aircraft is missing" which was made during wartime. I was considering an RAF Pinnace but my thoughts have now shifted to a beached ASR buoy "Cuckoo" diorama once the R-boote is done. Anyway, interested to see how this goes Cheers Steve
  12. David, I've been watching these replies and for some reason thought I had already commented on your (early) retirement, seems I hadn't I retired late due to the need to sell the business and am still finding my way around having no fixed schedule or the need to get up at 6am (though to my wife's annoyance, I still do, those habits are very tough to break) I also did a year of DIY on the new house which was more physical work than I'd done in many years, kept my waistline trim though I hope it all goes well for you and I very much look forward to your getting back to the big Vic Cheers Steve
  13. That's great Arjan, many thanks It's all consistent with what I've drawn however the stiffener detail on the back is not something I'd noticed before and will model It's these little details that I love I realised overnight that I've been blabbering on about the construction and not explained how I'm building this hull, not helpful. It is the same method used on the MGB but I guess not everyone has read that thread (not sure why not...) so here is a scratch view from the lines sheet that explains the way I'm building the hull and deck-house. I hope this will fill in the gaps to make what I'm writing clearer Cheers Steve
  14. Well they say the first casualty in war is the plan. In my case, that applies to my drawings. Months ago when I started this, I struggled to make the wheelhouse work given the parameters I had, namely Size of windows, both the front three and the diagonal The overall width of the wheelhouse The apparent slope of the front face Geometry can't be fiddled, it just is. The windows are ~500mm square give or take and they all look the same in the many photographs I have accumulated, with the proviso that the windows on the diagonal appear to be narrower (I've used 400mm), so not hugely so. Allowing for framing, and judging the width from the photographs,, this gives me a flat front ~2.4m wide. All good and that's the way I drew the GA. The problem is that I did not go back and amend the lines drawing which had drawn earlier with a front of 1.8 m, it was on my mental list to rework but somehow (age ...) it slipped off the list. The upshot being that the diagonal front on the framing is too narrow and too far forward for the wheelhouse. So, I can work around it but my pride takes its usual hammering This proves why drawings should be checked by an independent person, not the one who drew them The remaining problem is that to permit the deckhouse assembly to remain removable, I have two small corners of the deck that will remove with the deckhouse, frustrating, but no one will know if you don't tell.... BTW, the next logical stage is the balsa infill, but the balsa block was delayed and building the deckhouse buck (it will be covered with metal) is easier with the frame all open. So, I did what I should have done before finalising the frames and prepared the wheelhouse expansion drawings. Here they are printed and stuck to 0.5mm ply ready to cut out Some time later...... Note the shelf at the front that should not be there.... Actually most of it is covered by the forward skylight, its only the corners that are the problem Rear view shows how open this wheelhouse was These window openings are deliberately slightly oversize as they will be glazed against the metal cladding, no window frames on the R-boote. The armour plating was added after they were built in wood, so that's the way I'm doing it. I'm tempted to etch the armour cladding as I can then model the rivet detail correctly and perfectly, jury out on that decision. Whatever, the bridge sides will be incorporated in the sides for strength and appearance, down to the ply deck level. This box is at least a perfect fit in the frame opening, but that's a stupid mistake, really annoyed at myself. I've amended the drawings, so anyone following won't have this compromise to deal with. It's remarkably flat fronted, so much so I checked back to the photographs to make sure I'd not got that wrong as well. But no, they were very flat fronted, almost vertical. Its also a very large wheel house by comparison to RN vessels and given those large windows, I'm going to need to model some form of interior, it will be clearly visible. The three windows facing to the rear, the open bridge are visible in the dockyard pictures, but I think at least the middle one was closed up in practice, its a lot of glass to shatter Hope to make a little progress on the infill sections next Cheers Steve
  15. Pascal, I thought I could draw until I started reading your threads, incredible, it leaves me speechless, so much work is hidden in these posts I'll follow if I may Cheers Steve
  16. Meanwhile, its good to be building again... Frame sheet arrived from 4d today. I must be getting better, no sanding needed, this one just slotted together. Here are the 32 pieces ready for assembly after removing the protective paper (see burn marks on the waste, the paper protects the play against that burning) And here they are trial-fitted together As before, I've included two longitudinal frames that lock everything together and help keep it all straight And now on the base-board between some 3/8th inch square timbers to ensure straightness while gluing The longitudinal frames sit either side of the deckhouse at its widest. There are ply packers to the rear section which is narrower. The deckhouse inner box frame is sitting in position. It has 0.8 mm clearance all round as it is covered in ply later. Forward and to the rear of the longitudinal frames are 1/8 inch sq timbers to help keep the frames at right-angles to the keel. Really, these would be better as cut frames as well, something to do next time. Between the last frame and the transom are two horizontal frames that fit the location of the rudder shafts. Some scrap MDF blocks have been mounted and drilled out to help keep these shafts vertical (bottom left) Lastly, the various brass tubes are set in place, deckhouse box in background Forward of frame 3 is the tube that will house the steel mounting pin With the laser cut frames, this bit is so quick, next onto installing the balsa blocks Cheers Steve
  17. Distraction post nothing to do with motor minesweepers, just a selection of pictures from a gathering of "little ships" i.e. Dunkirk veterans, on the Thames yesterday in Chertsey. All wonderful modelling subjects And lastly, just imagine crossing the channel under fire in this one.... My grandfather was there and thankfully survived, lest we forget Cheers Steve
  18. Dmitriy, So many times I have done this and I still carry the scars. I recognise it is a luxury and admit feeling somewhat sheepish but the accuracy the laser can achieve is amazing... Thx for the congrats, they say the first 30 years are the hardest, I'm not so sure..... Cheers Steve
  19. To keep the information flowing, this is the frame artwork in the form required for laser cutting, exported as an A0 pdf file. The colour key is: Green: cut through outer (used for outlines) Blue: cut through, inner (used for holes) Red: engrave surface Should be here early next week Cheers Steve
  20. Thanks for the added colour Arjan. That was actually one of the pictures I downloaded, great close-up detail of the wheelhouse roof railings and port radio aerial spar... Fun fact, I lived and worked in the oil industry in Den Haag in the mid-70's and have very fond memories of Holland as it's where I met my English wife. Today is our 44th wedding anniversary, so I appreciate your post even more!
  21. And here is the frame plan ready to create the laser cutting artwork. I still need to add some notes to the second sheet, but otherwise I'm done. Tomorrow I'll get that last stage sorted (rearranging on the right size ply sheet and colouring for the laser) so I can send it off to 4D for cutting out. Then we can actually start building... at last! Quite a drawing marathon Cheers Steve
  22. Yup, that's the one... Not much knowledge of Zodiac signs....
  23. Welcome back Arjan, I've missed your photo contributions. There are some great pictures there, but sadly most are later Capella sub-class vessels with a more heavily armoured bridge (see great colour picture below), not the earlier sub-type of the R25 class that I am drawing. It looks like the 10th flotilla was made up from two groups of R25 subclass vessels. Part from the R159-193 batch which are really very similar to my drawing but with the addition of gun shields and the R218-271 batch which are Capella type vessels, see 10th Flotilla listing The class designations are really confusing, even the various (German) books I have seem to disagree. That said, there are 3 or 4 that are deck shots of the right type which I've grabbed, will clean up and include in my collection. A couple of interesting details there, great thanks I think the 10th flotilla markings were likely the sort of open-topped vertical mobius strip symbol , seen on a number of those pictures, see below, but picture attribution is always second hand so who knows really? This vessel looks to be from the R159-193 batch of the general R25 class sporting a more pronounced stern round-out. Note the heavy weather staining on the stern.... One other interesting shot shows these strange objects that appear in many photographs mounted to the engine room casing handrails This is the clearest shot yet of these that I've seen. I suspect they are late-war danbuoy floats (see the hole for a pole and the lifting eye above). It looks like the poles are stowed behind them, note bottom weight. Would love to know if I'm right. They are commonly seen on the operational pictures I have. Early war danbuoys had conical floats , see to the right of the picture below BTW, these look to be pre-war R21 class vessels, no camouflage paint or steel rear decking I have now accumulated over 250 pictures of these vessels and their fittings, really staggering what months of searching will turn up. You can never have too much information imho Cheers Steve
  24. Sheets 1 and 2 now more or less complete. I still need to detail the flak c30 a little more but I'm gong to take a break and work out the frame cutting layout so I can start to build this beast. At least I wasn't counting the hours this has taken, retirement is good that way, this would be a really terrible way to make a living. Still, I'm pleased with the result and can't wait to see the 4 sheets printed (sheet 3 is the lines and sheet 4 is the frame cutting guide). Sheet 3 needs a lot of notes added, but otherwise it's as I uploaded a couple of months ago. For those interested, this is what sheets 1 and 2 came out like. Well they are a lot larger of course (all sheets are A1) and with that increase in size, comes many tiny details not visible here. Every component you will see on the model is included with full 3 or 4 view detail drawings so this is all that is needed to build a super-detailed model. The windlass and chain stopper alone took me a whole day to sort out... Given I didn't have a drawing to copy, each component has been worked out from drawings of similar items and review of many many photographs, ensuring the most consistency I can manage. So, while I admit much of this is conjecture, I believe it is a very good stab at what they were like Lastly, the benefit I now have is I have vector drawings of every component and so the etch sheet drafting work will be super fast compared to previous builds Hopefully back later in the week with the frame cutting plan Cheers Steve
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