Night Owl

Great tip I can use that on some of my older models that have the canopy self eject onto the floor! lol. I also had a canopy etched from super glue fumes I contacted the sales rep from the company in this case "Kitty Hawk" and they sent me a new canopy free within a few days.

Hi all, I have applied Tamiya's extra thin cement to the light machine gun mount on a Meng M3A3 Bradley securing it to the main gun. After it had set I discovered that the whole gun mount that is supposed to move up and down was locked in a permanent elevated position. I think some glue has seeped out and dried in an unwanted location. If I can locate the culprit what can I use to break the bond? I saw a suggestion on Google for nail polish remover that sounds a bit strong if anyone has a suggestion I would appreciate the help. Thanks Dave

Looking for help with stopping bleed out when using model wash, I was washing small nooks and crannies on a tank when I noticed the Vallejo wash was bleeding out way beyond the area I was treating. I am washing over a very matt paint so I thought perhaps that may be the problem should I put a coat of semi gloss over the model prior to washing to stop the bleeding? or is the wash too thin its well shook right out of the bottle. I know you can take a moistened Q-tip and clean up the area but the tight spaces it all runs together and changes the base colour.

I just ordered some from lucky models as well pretty much the only store selling a wide variety. I read some reviews that say it's difficult applying a 2D decal to a 3D object and moreover the issue is getting the decal soft enough to conform without loosing the underlying detail. I am going to use AK interactive decal adhesive. Microsol decal softener has not worked well in the past so and I don't want to waste the decal. Perhaps cutting the decal into small squares will make the application better.

I am reaching out to the pros to get advice on painting faces, arms and hands in 1/35th. I am willing to invest the time and money but I don't know the process. Especially the do's and dont's. What are the best paint brands and brushes to use? Any links or photos would be great.

Ok so I decided to give the acrylics another try on a vehicle project I dubbed "Found on road dead" the colours I needed were available in Vallejo and Tamiya so I thought lets go with their thinners and cleaners to make life easier and it was actually a pleasure. One of the biggest bonuses to the acrylic line that I like as a modeller is that the special colours not common to military use azure blue can be applied in a flat finish then glossed up. Testors/Model Masters bright colours are 95% gloss. When I was looking for a dull finish of a weathered vehicle with some original paint left the Vallejo performed great with no tweaking.

Better description I can see on first Google search Tamiya has a Kit and possibly Trumpeter the more detail the better.

Thanks I have been looking at some figures like "Legend Productions" having a hard time fining Marines or Army for that period. The Army uniforms were the old second issue desert pattern and the Marines were wearing the digital desert multi cam it seems both branches were wearing integrated ballistic load bearing. US Army US Marines

Background The Second Battle of Fallujah—code-named Operation Al-Fajr (Arabic: الفجر "the dawn") and Operation Phantom Fury—was a joint American, Iraqi, and British offensive in November and December 2004, considered the highest point of conflict in Fallujah during the Iraq War. It was led by the U.S. Marines and U.S Army against the Iraqi insurgency stronghold in the city of Fallujah and was authorized by the U.S.-appointed Iraqi Interim Government. The U.S. military called it "some of the heaviest urban combat U.S. Marines and Soldiers have been involved in since the Battle of Huế City in Vietnam in 1968. This operation was the second major operation in Fallujah. Earlier, in April 2004, coalition forces fought the First Battle of Fallujah in order to capture or eliminate insurgent elements considered responsible for the deaths of a Blackwater Security team. When coalition forces fought into the center of the city, the Iraqi government requested that the city's control be transferred to an Iraqi-run local security force, which then began stockpiling weapons and building complex defenses across the city through mid-2004. The second battle was the bloodiest battle of the entire Iraq War, and is notable for being the first major engagement of the Iraq War fought solely against insurgents rather than the forces of the former Ba'athist Iraqi government, which was deposed in 2003. Concept and construction Many other memorable points in military history have been captured in diorama's it is hard and often too soon or raw to recreate a combat scene. I do however think that we cannot let the past be forgotten. Through photos, articles, memorials and even dioramas that often adorn war museums its a tribute to our brothers in arms. I myself have served in the Infantry in Kosovo war and as Munitions Specialist in the Afghanistan war. Being a modeller as well I find it therapeutic as I build this diorama I reflect on my time in country the good and bad experiences. I consulted on my own photo references of (battle damage) as well as online to capture the architecture common to Fallujah and the effects/results of the many military campaigns. I started with something that would bring the flavor of the region forward a "mosque entrance" then expanding outwards to create adjoined buildings. My plan moving forward is to add U.S. troops FIBUA fighting in a built up area with light armored vehicles in support. Need to make an iron gate that will be a final detail. I am using condensed foam in two grades that I trialed to see how they would react to cutting, compacting, tearing, solvents and adhesives. I found that super glue works the best and will not melt the foam for smaller piles of debris a spray adhesive common to craft stores or Mod-Podge works great and dries clear binding pieces. Here is a trial of the colour that the majority of the buildings will be painted in. I am working on some date pals to fall behind and a photo board for final back drop. I would appreciate comments and suggestions...more photos to upload as work progresses. Today working on more debris additional corrugated metal. I am sure this is an old technique but it works well using stipped down cardboard then giving it a light sanding and a coat of hardner before a metal finish to lay down the fibers. Also tried a dry fit of the background to make sure the debris field and perspective matches. I might lighten the backdrop it took a lot of searching to find a good perspective. A few nights ago I did some reserch on an idea l had to add a burnt out vehicle. What seemed to be common was the almost whiteish gray and black mottled appearance from intense heat. After the buildings are painted and weathered ill add a burn patch under the vehicle some smoke trails up the concrete and disintegrated tires melted off the rims. Stared the base layer of paint. June 15th 2019 I did some adjustment to the colours and switched from enamels to AK acrylics. The entire diorama was painted in CARC Tan 686 and highlighted with AK desert sand primer. Vallejo medium and dark grey wash was applied over the rubble to add depth and Vellejo weathering pencils for streaks on the concrete. I really wanted to capture the roll up metal garage doors that are a common feature in Iraq, also the spiderweb of downed power and service lines. The mosque gates and wooden door were handmade then primed and weathered a light mist of CARC tan was sprayed to give the effect of settling dust and sand. The rebar was painted with Vallejo metal-steel highlighted with a white weathering pencil then a mist of carc tan. So the diorama is pretty much done last touch is a airconditioner unit or water tank on top of the second roof. Next I am moving onto the US armored vecled and troop. I decided to do them in combat patrol/ house clearing advancing up the road with the Bradley in support. I did alot of research on the proper paint scheme and models of vehicles for 2004-2008 occupation. Although the M3A3 was introduced in Iraq March 2003 with the 4th Infantry Division the "BUSK" Bradley urban survivability kit was not in service until 2008 so I will probably forgo installing the system . I have ordered several upgrade kits from Live Resin for the SAG turret on the M1151. It will take me evenings until the winter to complete the diorama but I will keep posting the vehicle builds as I move forward.

I am looking for the most up to date accurate color for U.S. armour desert tan specifically on the M1235A1 or M1224 MRAP so many desert colors in various paint lines. Model Masters has a "US Gulf Armor Sand" would that work? I was wondering if the same color used in the Gulf war is the same color they are painting armor in Syria?

Thanks that's allot of great advice I really appreciate it. Hopefully I can have something to post soon. I think ill also scratch build a pier and an acrylic cube for the trawler its an ambitious project and looking expensive. It will test my modelling abilities to the limit trying to mimic a West Coast weathered gear laidened trawler tied up at low tide showing the big pier beams covered in barnacles and creosote throw some sea gulls in there for good measure. Allot of research right now ill have to make some calls.

I am new to maritime modelling and thinking of a build I would like to do but I dont know where to start to find what I am looking for. I am also looking for a picture to show the common scale sizes. I like 1:48 in aircraft models so something similar in size or a bit smaller. I live on the Pacific and the trawlers are very common sight so I thought it would make a great build with all the detail however cant seem to find a kit like the boat in the picture. If any one can help it would be greatly appreciated thank you!

Well I normally do fighter jets but after 30 years it gets old and I was looking for a challange. I had the idea to always do a rusted out broken down truck. When I googled the subject I was overwhelmed with all the informative on rusting methods. I decided on one and headed out to get paint and a kit. I settled on a cearance kit for $12 a simple Monogram kit would do incase things went ugly.This is my very first vehicle model ever I hope the senior expert car and truck enthusiasts like it. I also looked at several articles on making plastic look like corroded metal that was my first step using a Dremel to thin out the door panels, floor pan and front wheel wells. I started thinking that I should find a actual photo to work from and it was hard to settle on a colour but I found a good template. During the preperation I decided to try some different damage that would happen to a derilict vehicle vandalized over decades of sitting like bullet holes and cracked windshield. I also noticed that the bed was a wood mould in the photos the bed had rotted away leaving the frame so i cut out the bed and scratch built the frame. I got together the paints being careful to follow a prescribed regiment of priming then a base coat of Tamia hull red followed by a mix of lighter Vallejo US brown and light rust sponged on over the darker base coat. Then 2 coats of hairspray I then went to the blue I tried to find the official 1955 blues in Tamiya or Vallejo but no luck I am sure that some has a good resource I would appreciat knowing a brand or supplier and a reference chart. Next was retouching the rust areas and minor weathering. I hit the frame and body with a final coat of dry sienna and yellow earth pigment mixed together to give some texture and the look of piled loose rust. Then sealed it under a coat of testors dull coat. Whew almost done I am having so much fun doing this and I am amazed how well the online advice worked out I am definitely hooked on autos now! I am planning on a diorama base with a backdrop to start next so more to follow. Diorama is done...I found a backdrop from a abandoned mid West town that I thought had good character. It was difficult matching the terrain colour took several failed applications but finally came together.

I was looking online for out of the ordinary A-10 paint schemes when I came across your feed. Wow...yes for a second build so nice! if you stick to aircraft you'll be a force to be reckoned with. I did an A-10 some years ago but I am looking at another but this time spend the time and money to collect the Eduard, Aires and Italeri expansion packs to really challenge the modelling skills. I really like your edges on the paint and the ordinance. Don't worry too much about the decals its so hard to know what your getting in a kit I have gone to the expense of ordering custom decal sheets just to find that they are worse than what came with the kit. More often than not they are too thick stand too proud, to thin and tear or don't conform well no mater how much decal softener you use. Really nice job on the ejection seat its hard to mask the cockpit and avoid overspray perhaps some of the more experienced members have some tips. A few tricks I have tried is stuffing soft foam around the ejection seat and into the wind screen then around as much of the cockpit as possible, then masking canopy inside and out and closing the cockpit. If there is a crack the foam catches the spray and protects your seat and interior. Again very nice to look at ill be following look forward to your next build.

Just looking at doing this build in TA-4J, 158465, A/765, VT-7, 1992 great paint scheme. How did you like the kit?

West Coast East Sooke, BC about 100m from the ocean. I am going to try some measures perhaps put a hair dryer on the intake fan of the compressor and a space heater/ dehumidifier to start up about an hour prior to any airbrushing. Its actually quite an issue that has almost ruined my last two builds. When you have done a flawless paint job then its always with the clear cote when it happens. Then I sit there staring in shock because it looks like I just took the model out of the freezer and you have feeling and contemplate seeing if the plane can fly right into a wall from the total frustration. Using clear cote from a can is an option however its about the ability to control the application and shooting from a spray can onto a 1:48 scale plane doesn't give you much room for error and also getting into tight spaces like cockpits and wheel wells.

Hey i recently retuned to modeling after a 15yr rest to discover all the hype over acrylics. Thats all it is hype modelers were tired of the same old manufacturers. Along came Vallejo I did the same thing subscribed to the hype and purchased the line. Fortunately i did a trial painting a plane with layers of a Vallejo then applying their wash. I thinned it with water to remove the excess then disaster struck the base laters just peeled off. I never had that problem with enamels the Model Masters and Humdrol line is available in all colours on line and never lets you down. Acrylics are difficult to airbrush and even harder to clean the old use warm water to clean up only gums up everything. Viva enamels!

Sorry for the late reply I just used Model Master Super Fine Gray Lacquer Primer on a jet I am painting no thinning ready to spray super easy. Use regular lacquer thinner for clean up. The finish is as advertised super fine absolutely incredibly smooth. Happy modeling.

By luck and thats usually how these tips happen I stumbled upon a trick to get rid of frosting. I am in a humid climate eventhough I have a two moisture traps one on the compressor and one in the airline. I still was getting condensation cooling the dullcoat whenever I sprayed it on very frustrating on the final step of a great paint job. I was also dealing with a stubborn decal that was silvering and would not set on a flat paint. Using Microscale Micro Sol setting solution close to the decal was a badly frosted area. I noticed when the micro sol hit the frosting it completly disappeared. I let it dry and applied it to another frostef area with a brush and got the same amazing result I decided what the heck and I did the whole aircraft. I am amazed and delighted that it not only got rid of the frosting it didnt change the original matt finish or effect the paint in any way.😅

Nice pair of trainers...you should send a thank you card to kinetic for sharpening your filling and sanding skills without bad kits like that one we would never learn to appreciate good tooling!

I was looking for a inexpensive yet decent looking display base for my glass cabinet. I was limited to 11.5" x 14" space per shelf after looking at some options the Uschi line of tarmac scenes looked the most authentic. I found some raw wood plaques at the local craft store and a can of spray tack. I pre positioned the scenery to fit the base allowing the overhang then spray the paper on the back burnish with a cloth very easy and quick. I painted the base to tone it down I will add a deck side rail that is common to Wasp carriers as a backdrop between the base and the background scenery or foilage on other scenes. I just looked at wallpaper ocean scenery and printed what looked to be a good elevation and colour match. I am doing three or four more its easy and quite fun project.

If you look at all the photos it depends on the light of day as to the tone of the colour one thing is constant that the finish is a satin to semi gloss. The colours of the body paint, RAM panels and areas like the nose are standard and vary slightly from nation to nation. Main body FS36081 Euro gray also known as Dark Gunship Gray (but not to be confused with Gunship Gray (Model masters-1788) Nose FS 36118 Gunship Gray (Model masters-172305) RAM panels FS 36375 Light Ghost Gray (Model Masters-1728) The easiest way to do the RAM is to lay down your primer coat then your base coat you wont see hardly any faded or heavy soiled areas in photos so no need to pre shade. I tried the RAM panel decals they are very difficult for all the grief they caused I did half decals (underside) and half airbrushed panels on the top side. Take the time and patients to mask off all your panels its a ton of work but it looks way more realistic than decals. Masking and airbrushed Decals After all the painting and it is alot apply decals then a coat of semi-gloss clear top coat for enamels. I look forward to seeing your build there are a few good detail kits. When your using the photo eched parts on the cockpit keep the crazy glue away from the canopy until they dry. The fumes will migrate to the clear canopy and fog it then its ruined. I think I replaces about 10% of the kit with upgraded wheels, landing gear, cockpit tub, ejection seat, decals and I tore apart and rebuilt the engine as all kits are way under detailed. If you want the same look and detail I can lay it out for you its not that hard and I have some good photos you can have. Cheers Dave

Check out my feed I posted a F-35B or click on the picture below. I just finish about a month ago if you want info on the detail kits and paint let me know I did extensive reasearch to make sure the colours were correct.

1. USMC HMX-1 Presidential MV-22s Draw Decal - Nr. 48-V22-1 - 1:48 2. Bell-Boeing V-22 Osprey Part 1 VMM-165, VMM-161, VMM-166 Xtradecal 1:48 3. Tiltrotor Teufelshunde (https://www.aviationmegastore.com/v22-osprey-tiltrotor-teufelshunde-vmm162-vmm261-vmmt204-vmx22-vmm263-fl48012-flying-leathernecks-fl48012-aircraft-scale-modelling-decals/product/?action=prodinfo&art=86502) Flying Leathernecks - Nr. FL48012 - 1:48