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Flaps out

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About Flaps out

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    New Member
  • Birthday 08/23/1968

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Canada
  • Interests
    Modern jet aircraft

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  1. Well Vallejo airbrush thinner yes is great I am not saying use Windex as a thinner with your expensive paints use your manufactures recommended thinner. Windex is a cost saving "Safe" alternative when your done painting or between colour changes to get a good spray out and scrub without wasting the expensive name brand cleaners just to wash out your parts. It only works with acrylic paints so don't even attempt it with lacquers. I have been using it for over a year There is a ammonia free alternative at the link below. https://www.windex.com/en-us/products/ammonia-free-glass-cleaner
  2. Well Vallejo airbrush thinner yes is great I am not saying use Windex as a thinner with your expensive paints use your manufactures recommended thinner. Windex is a cost saving "Safe" alternative when your done painting or between colour changes to get a good spray out and scrub without wasting the expensive name brand cleaners just to wash out your parts. It only works with acrylic paints so don't even attempt it with lacquers. I have been using it for over a year There is a ammonia free alternative at the link below. https://www.windex.com/en-us/products/ammonia-free-glass-cleaner
  3. I am about to embark on an daunting camouflage pattern. at 1:48 scale the paint edge needs to be almost crisp with just a slight feather to the edge. I did some trials with the camo putty rolling it in sausages of different thicknesses and spraying from varying distances and angles which by the way is near impossible to maintain the same distance on curved surfaces. I found that after about 15 min the putty was settling and moving. I am wondering is Silly putty which I have heard a lot about does the same thing? The pattern is an exact copy if the mask is on the move well like most modellers I am a perfectionist so that just wont do! I am open to different products and processes. I also heard that Elmer's school white glue makes a good mask that wont move but I have not tried it. I was thinking that is I could get some maskol or the like into an old Vallejo paint container I could lay out a nice curve from the applicator tip and fill in behind it. Trying to get a smooth curve with Maskol using a brush well its pretty unforgiving if you have to backtrack, plus I find its hard to tell what's been covered until it dries and changes color. Dave
  4. OMG...this kit is killing me, I have a 1:48 scale F-18B everything was going great until I took out the canopy and noticed this seam that runs down the center of both parts the wind screen and the canopy. How can I get rid of this without destroying the canopy. I do have a Hasegawa kit for a F-18D that has a two seat version canopy I don't mind taking. Both models are tandem seat cockpits but I don't know if its the same canopy design...does anyone know if MacDonald Douglas used the same canopy for both versions? thanks in advance for any help. Dave
  5. Great build love the new larger F-18s so many Squadrons so little time. Great weathering and finishing. I had to zoom in and inspect your paint great technique on the mottled pattern. Did you build it strait from the box or did you add some after market items?
  6. Thanks for the advice if you have any photo's or reference material to assist the diorama it would be appreciated we can exchange email addresses. I havent assigned a permanent position to the vehicles as the deciding wether the troops should be at an administration halt or in a FIBUA clearing state. I would like to get some good figures not mass produced by a generic company but Marines from that era in a set of 4-6 are hard to find. I would appreciate some insite into the Bradley crew dress in Fallujah. Hope we can coordinate as I move forward on this project it sounds like you served in Fallujah? I served with the Canadian infantry in Afghanistan and Bosnia so I can only speek to my experiences although my father is an American I almost joined the Marines and hold an active intrest in the corps and its battle history, I would appreciate hearing yours sometime.

     

    Cheers

     

    Dave

  7. Thanks for all your comments and suggestion I am not married to the vehicle positioning. I still have the troops to finish its been a few months since I have done any work on the diorama. I got sidetracked with a new diorama "EOD Iraq" I just received the 1:35 Panda Cougar 6x6 JERRV (Joint EOD Rapid Response Vehicle) to finish the scene.
  8. I am just taking a break from the figures to work on other projects ill be back at these around end Nov. Cross delta has most patterns its just hard finding a store that has stock.
  9. I had an idea to do a diorama after seeing photos of an EOD team in Iraq setting up to dispose of a dud/UXO GBU-10C Laser guided bomb thundered into the desert floor. I did allot of searching for a detailed GBU-12 with the flight fins deployed. I finally found one at Gunsmoke models. Just waiting for it to arrive. On the side I have started the diorama base of the Iraq desert. Yesterday I received the 1/35th Meng kit. I was impressed with the figure proportions but the suits lacked detail in the straps and belts. Nothing a scribe can't fix. I started with the number 1 team leader I want him in the position where he is crimping the No.12 non electric detonator onto the M700 Safety fuse. To do this the hands were close I just needed to separate a finger and reposition it as it were holding the det. Fine micro saw Seperation is completed and finger is softened with thin set glue to move into position. Start on the rest of the figure. I will paint the faces but not sure yet if I'll do it before airbrushing the suite or after. I don't want to put liquid mask over the faces from past experience it probably won't come off easily. So I'll have to figure out a system. I am going to paint the suites in desert tan being used by the U.S. rather than the standard green. I am pretty stoked at the idea and after some weathering they should look awsome. You can see a photo at https://images.app.goo.gl/2LAD7euoPV36W5Wg7 Tomorrow I'll start on final scribing and sanding. Then into priming and painting the suite. Priming with AK interactive-Desert Sand After a coat of AK interactive CARC Tan 686 over the primer I detailed the suite with Vallejo European Brown wash. The knee pads and chest plate we're done in Meng rubber black then creases in Valleho's Dark gray wash. I'll do the faces last then a coat of AK interactive Ultra Matt to bring everything to the same look. Finished the figures tonight final stage painting faces, adding face shield, coat of ultra matt and painting the M700 Safety fuse and detonator. I think the guy standing needs to be holding something like a shovel in one hand and ammo can in the other which is like a det transfer box. Over all I really liked the kit great detail no surprises. They will make a great addition to the diorama I am working on where they will be prepping to blow a GBU-12 in the desert. Exciting day the GBU-10C 2000lb LGB arrived first look it had great detail. Now I need to position the dud bomb and create the inpact site. Its a shame but ill dig out the diorama base then rebuild and repaint it around the bomb. After it dries ill reposition the bomb do more debris then repaint there is still allot of work to be done around the bomb to make it look like an impact. I will be cutting off the guidance and control section as well as the seeker head then scratch building them to have them broken away on impact with wiring and internal components exposed. Tonight I finished making the damaged control section(wings) and guidance section. Then primed it with Vallejo Light ghost grey primer it's kind does both jobs at once as the ghost grey is the final spec colour. I had a box of spare PE parts for just an occasion like this. The wings are from the kit. The before and after I took a break and moved to the diorama. After doing some prep work as seen in the other photos above. Everything dried so I reposition the spare bomb and built up more around it. After the sand modge podge mix dries I'll wiggle that bomb out and let it fully dry. Back to working.on the bomb finishing up the PE parts. I was disappointed to see the kit has no decals. I'll have to source some after market bomb decals.. Final coat Vallejo light ghost grey 70.615 over gray primer 73.601 then I did a wash of light gray 76.515 for some light weathering. Tiny C4 charges ill place on the bomb. I found some 1:32 GBU decals as part of a Trumpeter weapons set. So I'll take the decals I need and keep the kit for another day. I am working on the final lay out of the debris field before setting the bomb in permanently. I'll have to build up around the bomb to give it a hard impact appearance. Getting the decals on before hand is the first priority. Finally found decals although they are coverd in dust and debris they are still visable. Tonight final coat on the desert floor in and around the impact area. I spent several days getting the bomb burried and everything cemented down and painted so it looks as realistic as possible.
  10. Ah so many camouflage schemes so little time. Like, like and like some more. I love the Aggressor sqn and their many schemes you have done justice to the falcon. Looks from the photosn like you did some reaserch to make sure your matching the colors and the scheme. Very nice work on the airbrushing and matching up those pesky dual color decals. Look forward to seeing it finished.
  11. In between my new armored obsession and a big diorama project I like to return to aircraft. I have always wanted to do something from the Vietnam war era. Also I don't have any props in my collection so this plane fits the bill. I havent decided on a decal set but I would like to do a Sqn that is not well known. So a behind the scene project is looking at photos and finding decals. Love the scene in "Flight of the intruder" when William Dafoe calls in "Sandy" the loitering Skyraider. Anyways should be fun looking forward to the final coat. I am goint to add expansion packs and detail kits but the kit seems pretty good. Ill get into the kit here tomorrow and post some more on the paints and start of construction. Oct 15th update Layed out engine parts there are two options one with the cowl doors open and one closed not sure the purpose of the doors but when they are closed you cannot see the engin details. looking at several engine photos a well seasoned engine has several types of metals predominant is the main cast with a almost beryllium or off gold hue. I found an almost perfect match in the Tamiya spray cans I just decanted some and transfered it into my airbrush. After spraying a wash to replicate the burnt hydraulic fluid and oils the photo is a bit orange but the final finish looks very close to the photo. I just need to add some detail painting of the other metal surfaces. Tomorrow's plan to start on the cockpit I realised that the expansion pack for the cockpit has a Navy seat I do have a Airforce seat ready to go.
  12. Did you finish the diorama?
  13. Your so right I have been practicing reading amd watching tutorials. Here is my fourth attempt at figure heads.There is so much out there for WW2 but not so much for Iraq in the way good custom figures for the 2005 era I need.
  14. I am reaching out for help to take stock figures from a kit and make them into other poses that look natural using proven techniques. I am willing to put in the time but I need some resources on the how too. Moving supplied arms, heads, hands and legs without ending up with a figure that looks like something out of the movie "Thing" is my challenge. I have seen some bad attempts and I am trying not to stuggle through a self taught hack job. Thanks for any assistance you can send me.
  15. Stunning work on this and the models on your Flicker page. Wow is all I can say your definitely a master modeller. I think I'll go back and drool over some of your busses.
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