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Flaps out

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About Flaps out

  • Rank
    New Member
  • Birthday 08/23/1968

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Canada
  • Interests
    Modern jet aircraft

Recent Profile Visitors

561 profile views
  1. Ah so many camouflage schemes so little time. Like, like and like some more. I love the Aggressor sqn and their many schemes you have done justice to the falcon. Looks from the photosn like you did some reaserch to make sure your matching the colors and the scheme. Very nice work on the airbrushing and matching up those pesky dual color decals. Look forward to seeing it finished.
  2. In between my new armored obsession and a big diorama project I like to return to aircraft. I have always wanted to do something from the Vietnam war era. Also I don't have any props in my collection so this plane fits the bill. I havent decided on a decal set but I would like to do a Sqn that is not well known. So a behind the scene project is looking at photos and finding decals. Love the scene in "Flight of the intruder" when William Dafoe calls in "Sandy" the loitering Skyraider. Anyways should be fun looking forward to the final coat. I am goint to add expansion packs and detail kits but the kit seems pretty good. Ill get into the kit here tomorrow and post some more on the paints and start of construction. Oct 15th update Layed out engine parts there are two options one with the cowl doors open and one closed not sure the purpose of the doors but when they are closed you cannot see the engin details. looking at several engine photos a well seasoned engine has several types of metals predominant is the main cast with a almost beryllium or off gold hue. I found an almost perfect match in the Tamiya spray cans I just decanted some and transfered it into my airbrush. After spraying a wash to replicate the burnt hydraulic fluid and oils the photo is a bit orange but the final finish looks very close to the photo. I just need to add some detail painting of the other metal surfaces. Tomorrow's plan to start on the cockpit I realised that the expansion pack for the cockpit has a Navy seat I do have a Airforce seat ready to go.
  3. Did you finish the diorama?
  4. Your so right I have been practicing reading amd watching tutorials. Here is my fourth attempt at figure heads.There is so much out there for WW2 but not so much for Iraq in the way good custom figures for the 2005 era I need.
  5. I am reaching out for help to take stock figures from a kit and make them into other poses that look natural using proven techniques. I am willing to put in the time but I need some resources on the how too. Moving supplied arms, heads, hands and legs without ending up with a figure that looks like something out of the movie "Thing" is my challenge. I have seen some bad attempts and I am trying not to stuggle through a self taught hack job. Thanks for any assistance you can send me.
  6. Stunning work on this and the models on your Flicker page. Wow is all I can say your definitely a master modeller. I think I'll go back and drool over some of your busses.
  7. I feel cold just looking at this scene. Love your weathering on the diorama, figure skin painting and that tank looks like its ready for retirement. I have been on winter manouvers and your scene brings back some bad memories of being cold to the bone thanks! Lol great diorama I think ill just sit and stare at it a bit more.
  8. Here is my second vehicle for my diorama posted under dioramas " Battle of Fallujah-operation Phantom Furry" another great Academy kit I wont bore you with too many construction photos. You can also see the Meng Bradley on this forum. I did add allot of Live Resin armaments I have seen some funky weapons configurations for the SAG save -a-gunner turret. Live Resin parts arrived excited to get building! So pros of the live resin is great detail as advertised, cons are no instructions and the type of plastic used to cast the parts is extremely brittle and can only be bonded with crazy glue. Paint was a primmer coat of AK interactive desert sand primer then a coat of AK interactive 686A CARC Tan. After drying over night started weathering with Vallejo model wash 76.523 Tierra European Dust on all bolts and panel seams. I did the weapons in 2 coats of Vallejo black wash and picked up the details with Vallejo pigments dusted on. I also used the desert pigments to add a layer of dust on all the gear and vehicle. Check out my diorama " Battle of Fallujah-Operation Phantom Fury"- Work In Progress - Dioramas to see the vehicles on the scene I look forward to your comments. Sneak peek "Battle of Fallujah-operation Phantom Furry"
  9. Hi I saw the link to my diorama project for the use of foam, don't over think it the best foam I found was first-foam that is used to protect parts in mailing packages, second was construction ridged board insulation foam. The test is to take any foam you have doesn't have to be specific and compress it with the end of an tool. Does it keep the impression with crisp detail? can you distress it without it falling apart? and finally can you paint it in one to two coats easily? Foam is porous and depending on what type will either suck up the paint or reject it. I found the rigid insulation solved both problems. I hit it with a primer coat just to cover the blue then apply my base colour. Last tip when you cutting walls and doorways use a 1/35th scale ruler to make sure your dimensions are scaled to your figures and vehicles, plan your relief if your wanting a raised window trim on a stacked block wall for example. Cut away excess material then do your depressions and distressing. Vallejo YouTube series on weathering has some stunning results and great ideas. I have used both the AK Interactive and the Vallejo on this diorama I am still working on and the Vallejo is far more versatile. Use super glue to connect your foam parts and take the time to anchor everything down because the foam is light when you go to airbrush it guess what? it wants to take off! old adage 95% prep 5% paint.
  10. I finished one of two armored vehicles posted on "Meng Bradley" and the figures for the diorama posted on "Marines in Fallujah" I am just wrapping up the M1151 Armoured up Humvee ill post soon. The figures are taking the longest as I am trying to decide do I want them as if they are under contact or more relaxed like a halt during a patrol.
  11. Great advice I took some of your techniques and tried it on the first faces I have ever done very happy with the results sothanks again for the advice. Quick and easy did these five heads in about 2 hours.
  12. I need help tracking down the proper color for modern USMC fragmentation vest and ammo pouches known as "coyote brown" in Vallejo paint.
  13. I started the first figure for the diorama posted under dioramas "Operation Phantom Furry" USMC wearing MARPAT. At 1/35th scale digital squares are barely discernible. I tried several methods to replicate the pattern with paint iether the pixels were out off scàle or looked too round trying to use a brush or sponge. Then I found camouflage decals from Cross Delta in MARPAT desert what a life saver! I did a few trials as putting a 2D object on a 3D object would prove to be challenging. The decals are thick twice what your used too, I applied Micro-Sol decal softener it helped the decal bend after about 2 min it became exceptional playable. Working it in the creases with a brush moistened with micro-sol it conformed like fabric. Cut roughly to the size of say a lower arm sleeve and then a second piece for the upper arm. I let it dry overnight the decal further worked its way into the underlying details I was amazed at the results. Next I noticed it was too shiney so a coat of AK Interactive ultra matt varnish took care of that giving the decal a fabric look. I am chasing that elusive "Coyote Brown" for the load bearing vest if anyone has a lead on the proper colour in Vallejo. There is a ton of work to do on this figure but for the start I am happy with the camouflage the camera changes the colour a bit. Started working on the heads and some of the other gear. Heads were painted with seven layers of Vallejo acrylic then a little 5 o'clock shadow added. Marine gear painted in the Coyote Brown- Vallejo 71.024 Khaki brown great match then washed with 76.523, 76.514 finally a coat of AK interactive ultra matt. Some Marines during the campaign maintained the woodlands camouflage pattern on vests and pouches. I did the camouflage first next ill do the MARPAT desert then add the gear, head and hands.
  14. Just finished one of two vehicles for my diorama posted under "Battle of Fallujah-Operation Phantom Fury" all I have to say is loved the kit Meng makes a great product. I did alot of reaserch on the proper colours for US vehicles in Iraq from the 2004-2006 period as colours changed. This is the first armored vehicle I have ever made but allot of the skills I learned from building jets applies. Also doing research and watching othrs online builds helps. Washed and distressed roadwheels Matching pigment to RC079 AK interactive 686A CARC Tan swatch One of several steps weathering the tracks Primer coat application. Finish coat and weathered wash. Sneek peek "Battle of Fallujah-operation Phantom Furry"
  15. Ever dream of that one product that will clean your airbrush across multiple acrylic brands...well recently while switching from Meng paint to, Vallejo then to Tamiya I had seen online a tip to use plain old Windex. After airbrushing just fill up your airbrush cup swirl it with a paintbrush for a min and spray it through it takes two to three applications to get your parts clean and Windex does not dry out the metal. The best part of all this is its super cheap you can get a huge bottle at Wal-Mart for $4-5 as compared to brand name airbrush cleaners. I don't recommend thinning with it unless its the Windex clear not the Windex with the blue hue. Works great and smells good too. I have used lacquer to thin across all brands of Acrylics it works great but the noxious fumes are a health concern you need to wear your mask, gloves and ventilate. Lacquer is great for a deep overnight soak cleaning but it evaporates quickly so it can cause drying out of your parts especially while spraying tend to get allot of build up on the needle tip.
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