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Flaps out

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About Flaps out

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  • Birthday 08/23/1968

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    Modern jet aircraft

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  1. I just ordered some from lucky models as well pretty much the only store selling a wide variety. I read some reviews that say it's difficult applying a 2D decal to a 3D object and moreover the issue is getting the decal soft enough to conform without loosing the underlying detail. I am going to use AK interactive decal adhesive. Microsol decal softener has not worked well in the past so and I don't want to waste the decal. Perhaps cutting the decal into small squares will make the application better.
  2. I am reaching out to the pros to get advice on painting faces, arms and hands in 1/35th. I am willing to invest the time and money but I don't know the process. Especially the do's and dont's. What are the best paint brands and brushes to use? Any links or photos would be great.
  3. Ok so I decided to give the acrylics another try on a vehicle project I dubbed "Found on road dead" the colours I needed were available in Vallejo and Tamiya so I thought lets go with their thinners and cleaners to make life easier and it was actually a pleasure. One of the biggest bonuses to the acrylic line that I like as a modeller is that the special colours not common to military use azure blue can be applied in a flat finish then glossed up. Testors/Model Masters bright colours are 95% gloss. When I was looking for a dull finish of a weathered vehicle with some original paint left the Vallejo performed great with no tweaking.
  4. Better description I can see on first Google search Tamiya has a Kit and possibly Trumpeter the more detail the better.
  5. Thanks I have been looking at some figures like "Legend Productions" having a hard time fining Marines or Army for that period. The Army uniforms were the old second issue desert pattern and the Marines were wearing the digital desert multi cam it seems both branches were wearing integrated ballistic load bearing. US Army US Marines
  6. Background The Second Battle of Fallujah—code-named Operation Al-Fajr (Arabic: الفجر "the dawn") and Operation Phantom Fury—was a joint American, Iraqi, and British offensive in November and December 2004, considered the highest point of conflict in Fallujah during the Iraq War. It was led by the U.S. Marines and U.S Army against the Iraqi insurgency stronghold in the city of Fallujah and was authorized by the U.S.-appointed Iraqi Interim Government. The U.S. military called it "some of the heaviest urban combat U.S. Marines and Soldiers have been involved in since the Battle of Huế City in Vietnam in 1968. This operation was the second major operation in Fallujah. Earlier, in April 2004, coalition forces fought the First Battle of Fallujah in order to capture or eliminate insurgent elements considered responsible for the deaths of a Blackwater Security team. When coalition forces fought into the center of the city, the Iraqi government requested that the city's control be transferred to an Iraqi-run local security force, which then began stockpiling weapons and building complex defenses across the city through mid-2004. The second battle was the bloodiest battle of the entire Iraq War, and is notable for being the first major engagement of the Iraq War fought solely against insurgents rather than the forces of the former Ba'athist Iraqi government, which was deposed in 2003. Concept and construction Many other memorable points in military history have been captured in diorama's it is hard and often too soon or raw to recreate a combat scene. I do however think that we cannot let the past be forgotten. Through photos, articles, memorials and even dioramas that often adorn war museums its a tribute to our brothers in arms. I myself have served in the Infantry in Kosovo war and as Munitions Specialist in the Afghanistan war. Being a modeller as well I find it therapeutic as I build this diorama I reflect on my time in country the good and bad experiences. I consulted on my own photo references of (battle damage) as well as online to capture the architecture common to Fallujah and the effects/results of the many military campaigns. I started with something that would bring the flavor of the region forward a "mosque entrance" then expanding outwards to create adjoined buildings. My plan moving forward is to add U.S. troops FIBUA fighting in a built up area with light armored vehicles in support. Need to make an iron gate that will be a final detail. I am using condensed foam in two grades that I trialed to see how they would react to cutting, compacting, tearing, solvents and adhesives. I found that super glue works the best and will not melt the foam for smaller piles of debris a spray adhesive common to craft stores or Mod-Podge works great and dries clear binding pieces. Here is a trial of the colour that the majority of the buildings will be painted in. I am working on some date pals to fall behind and a photo board for final back drop. I would appreciate comments and suggestions...more photos to upload as work progresses. Today working on more debris additional corrugated metal. I am sure this is an old technique but it works well using stipped down cardboard then giving it a light sanding and a coat of hardner before a metal finish to lay down the fibers. Also tried a dry fit of the background to make sure the debris field and perspective matches. I might lighten the backdrop it took a lot of searching to find a good perspective. A few nights ago I did some reserch on an idea l had to add a burnt out vehicle. What seemed to be common was the almost whiteish gray and black mottled appearance from intense heat. After the buildings are painted and weathered ill add a burn patch under the vehicle some smoke trails up the concrete and disintegrated tires melted off the rims. Stared the base layer of paint.
  7. I am looking for the most up to date accurate color for U.S. armour desert tan specifically on the M1235A1 or M1224 MRAP so many desert colors in various paint lines. Model Masters has a "US Gulf Armor Sand" would that work? I was wondering if the same color used in the Gulf war is the same color they are painting armor in Syria?
  8. Thanks that's allot of great advice I really appreciate it. Hopefully I can have something to post soon. I think ill also scratch build a pier and an acrylic cube for the trawler its an ambitious project and looking expensive. It will test my modelling abilities to the limit trying to mimic a West Coast weathered gear laidened trawler tied up at low tide showing the big pier beams covered in barnacles and creosote throw some sea gulls in there for good measure. Allot of research right now ill have to make some calls.
  9. I am new to maritime modelling and thinking of a build I would like to do but I dont know where to start to find what I am looking for. I am also looking for a picture to show the common scale sizes. I like 1:48 in aircraft models so something similar in size or a bit smaller. I live on the Pacific and the trawlers are very common sight so I thought it would make a great build with all the detail however cant seem to find a kit like the boat in the picture. If any one can help it would be greatly appreciated thank you!
  10. Hi just finished the diorama for the F-100 if your intrested.

  11. Well I normally do fighter jets but after 30 years it gets old and I was looking for a challange. I had the idea to always do a rusted out broken down truck. When I googled the subject I was overwhelmed with all the informative on rusting methods. I decided on one and headed out to get paint and a kit. I settled on a cearance kit for $12 a simple Monogram kit would do incase things went ugly.This is my very first vehicle model ever I hope the senior expert car and truck enthusiasts like it. I also looked at several articles on making plastic look like corroded metal that was my first step using a Dremel to thin out the door panels, floor pan and front wheel wells. I started thinking that I should find a actual photo to work from and it was hard to settle on a colour but I found a good template. During the preperation I decided to try some different damage that would happen to a derilict vehicle vandalized over decades of sitting like bullet holes and cracked windshield. I also noticed that the bed was a wood mould in the photos the bed had rotted away leaving the frame so i cut out the bed and scratch built the frame. I got together the paints being careful to follow a prescribed regiment of priming then a base coat of Tamia hull red followed by a mix of lighter Vallejo US brown and light rust sponged on over the darker base coat. Then 2 coats of hairspray I then went to the blue I tried to find the official 1955 blues in Tamiya or Vallejo but no luck I am sure that some has a good resource I would appreciat knowing a brand or supplier and a reference chart. Next was retouching the rust areas and minor weathering. I hit the frame and body with a final coat of dry sienna and yellow earth pigment mixed together to give some texture and the look of piled loose rust. Then sealed it under a coat of testors dull coat. Whew almost done I am having so much fun doing this and I am amazed how well the online advice worked out I am definitely hooked on autos now! I am planning on a diorama base with a backdrop to start next so more to follow. Diorama is done...I found a backdrop from a abandoned mid West town that I thought had good character. It was difficult matching the terrain colour took several failed applications but finally came together.
  12. I was looking online for out of the ordinary A-10 paint schemes when I came across your feed. Wow...yes for a second build so nice! if you stick to aircraft you'll be a force to be reckoned with. I did an A-10 some years ago but I am looking at another but this time spend the time and money to collect the Eduard, Aires and Italeri expansion packs to really challenge the modelling skills. I really like your edges on the paint and the ordinance. Don't worry too much about the decals its so hard to know what your getting in a kit I have gone to the expense of ordering custom decal sheets just to find that they are worse than what came with the kit. More often than not they are too thick stand too proud, to thin and tear or don't conform well no mater how much decal softener you use. Really nice job on the ejection seat its hard to mask the cockpit and avoid overspray perhaps some of the more experienced members have some tips. A few tricks I have tried is stuffing soft foam around the ejection seat and into the wind screen then around as much of the cockpit as possible, then masking canopy inside and out and closing the cockpit. If there is a crack the foam catches the spray and protects your seat and interior. Again very nice to look at ill be following look forward to your next build.
  13. Just looking at doing this build in TA-4J, 158465, A/765, VT-7, 1992 great paint scheme. How did you like the kit?
  14. West Coast East Sooke, BC about 100m from the ocean. I am going to try some measures perhaps put a hair dryer on the intake fan of the compressor and a space heater/ dehumidifier to start up about an hour prior to any airbrushing. Its actually quite an issue that has almost ruined my last two builds. When you have done a flawless paint job then its always with the clear cote when it happens. Then I sit there staring in shock because it looks like I just took the model out of the freezer and you have feeling and contemplate seeing if the plane can fly right into a wall from the total frustration. Using clear cote from a can is an option however its about the ability to control the application and shooting from a spray can onto a 1:48 scale plane doesn't give you much room for error and also getting into tight spaces like cockpits and wheel wells.
  15. Hey i recently retuned to modeling after a 15yr rest to discover all the hype over acrylics. Thats all it is hype modelers were tired of the same old manufacturers. Along came Vallejo I did the same thing subscribed to the hype and purchased the line. Fortunately i did a trial painting a plane with layers of a Vallejo then applying their wash. I thinned it with water to remove the excess then disaster struck the base laters just peeled off. I never had that problem with enamels the Model Masters and Humdrol line is available in all colours on line and never lets you down. Acrylics are difficult to airbrush and even harder to clean the old use warm water to clean up only gums up everything. Viva enamels!
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