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Shin

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Everything posted by Shin

  1. Thanks for the comments Dennis and modelling minion! Unfortunately there was a huge setback that delayed finishing this in time. Namely, attempting to put on a semi-gloss coat ended a disaster. Originally I went with a VMS satin varnish and that sprayed great, but the resulting sheen was a bit too flat for what I wanted. The only other semi-gloss I have is Mission Models, so gave that a shot - instant orange peel. Initially I tried dry coats, and then went with wet coats to try and fix it and it made it a bit better, but there's still a micro-texture to the paint job which you'll see in the photos. I'll definitely have to look into how I want to approach this finish before I attempt things like the Blue Angel I have my stash. I may try Tamiya's X-35 (I use their X-22 and XF-86 flat to great success), or maybe see if I can get VMS gloss to mix with their satin. Either way, since last post, an oil pinwash for the panel lines, the semi-gloss coat, assembly, and detail painting the remaining things. Was thinking about trying adding antennae wire to this, but at this point I'm OK with calling it done. Thanks for all the comments along the way and for hosting a great group build - I didn't get the result I wanted, but found some technical deficiencies to work on and also did my first major surgery with the resin flaps so that's a nice plus. It was also cool to see all the different Corsairs everyone put together, I had only seen them in blue before.
  2. @DrumBum just to present another option if you find dipping doesn't work well for you, you can also polish canopies to get better clarity. Tamiya polishing compounds and the Novus plastic system are popular ones in this hobby, but there are others, including automotive parts polishers. Personally in the few dipping attempts I tried, I had trouble with either pooling or dust settling on the canopy before I could get it into cover. With polishing the canopy can be handled immediately and not have to worry about other factors. Obviously the downside is it's more time consuming - using a motorized tool with a polishing pad could help with this, but I haven't graduated to that yet.
  3. @APA if this helps at all, ran a quick (really crappy) gradient between W&N Artists Oil Titanium White & Ivory Black because I had them out (also the only black oil paint I have). Grey card for you to play with white balance.
  4. Cool idea, great work on your tank so far. I'm going to repeat what I said above and caution you that the white may be also tinting the colors, not just the black. I think it would ultimately be easier to use some grays as a starting point and tinting them to get the correct shades for base colors you want to match your black/white photo. Or add some red/yellow to knock out the blue of your black mix?
  5. I'm not sure I fully understand your question - are you looking for something you want to mix with, or the blackest black? Your mixing question is sort of flawed - what's to say it isn't your white mixing paint tinting the grey either warm or cool? I think all black paints (due to how they are made) are going to show the slightest tint when mixed. This goes from hobby to artist to house paints. Just read through the descriptions of the Winsor & Newton Artist Oils black colors for an example, they are described with brown, blue, or green undertones. If you're looking for a specific shade of grey, I suggest you find an adequate one out of the bottle, or experiment with the white/blacks you have and tinting them with other colors to get the grey you want. If you're looking for the blackest black available to you, look into Black 3.0 from Stuart Semple. It's the blackest paint you're going to get, partially because it absorbs so much light. Doubt this will be useful for mixing though. As far as scale modeling goes, I don't think I've seen any of the common hobby paints labeled "black" that hasn't been an adequate representation of black. Color on a model is also relative, as surrounding hues can shift the perception of what color a paint looks like, so keep that in mind as well. Think I'm rambling at this point, hopefully I gave even a little bit of insight that could help you.
  6. Small update, box decals on. I cut off as much film as I could on them. A few hickups since the last update - i put the walkway decals on the wrong location so had to carefully remove what I could using decal solution then a knife. I then masked and sprayed those. Also I realized that I didn't spray the yellow on the nose far back enough, but had already put on the decals on the nose. So had to carefully mask and spray some more, which resulted in a different shade of yellow. Hopefully they blend better once the clear coats are on. I also need to evaluate what I can get done before the deadline. If you recall I was originally going to try hairspray chipping with this plane, but couldn't get that to work. We'll see whether I can find time to do any weathering on here at all. But nothing wrong with a nice clean airframe either.
  7. Thanks for the kind words all! Funny enough, the red hair was an accident, i was trying to go for a sandy blonde that box art was showing but this is what it turned out as, but it looked OK so I stuck with it. Thanks for the warning about the pole, I never even considered that. I did have to straighten it out of the box as it came a bit wobbly. Will keep that in mind for any future builds with spears!
  8. Hi all, thought I would post up my first figure RFI. This is my second miniature painting attempt after completing my first, a 35mm resin chibi thing. Overall I've enjoyed the process and like the idea of being able to finish something in a few days instead of the weeks or months it takes me to build a jet or tank (though to be fair I started this figure months ago). This was my first historical subject purely due to scoping out eBay for a relatively cheap 75mm knight from one of the few figure companies I was familiar with at the time. The figure is from Scale75 and is made of white metal. I know a lot of advice could be given as I'm new to this game, and would appreciate any guidance, critiques, or tips for improvements provided. Right off the bat I know there are some seam lines that I didn't fully remove and I could add more shading to the chainmail folds. I'm hoping improved gradients and faces/eyes will come with practice. This was airbrush primed using Mission Models black then white from top as a zenithal light, and then brush painted with Scale75 Scale Color and Vallejo Metal Colors. I used oil paint washes for the metal parts. Thank you for reading and your time! I honestly think the photos look better than the real thing hah, but here they are: And a photo zoomed in to way closer than anyone should be looking from!
  9. hah thanks both for putting my mind at ease. honestly I think there's too much doubt in my head from information overload - search F4U-1D VF-84 online and you'll see every shade of blue from royal blue to an almost black dark navy on illustrations and other people's model builds.
  10. Agreed Dennis! I went with a mix very similar to the left one above. If any one is curious, it's a mix of Mission Models Gloss Sea Blue (10 drops), Black (2 drops), Blue (4 drops), NATO Green (4 drops). Notice how those units are in drops and not in volume - the black and blue drops are MUCH bigger than the GSB or Green. Here's what it looks like on the plane - wasn't sure how much I liked it after I shot it, but after looking at it again the next morning I think it's not too bad.
  11. Thanks for the comments so far all! L ooks like the finish line is coming up, will help put some fire under me. Part of the reason why lack of updates is I've been trying to get hairspray chipping to work with not much success. I still haven't determined whether it's my hairspray technique or the paint, but here are the some of the test results. Either it liquefies the paint or doesn't really come out off at alll. At this point I need to get some paint on if I want any chance of finishing. Will probably add chipping via sponge and brush. But here we are, all primed and ready to roll after some drying time. Mission Models grey primer. Engine all painted, and cockpit buttoned up. And here are my latest tests for Gloss Sea Blue. Not sure why they are reflecting purple, but the lower halves is what they look like with a semi-gloss clear coat on top of it. The paper towel might be a good indication of the hues, though not sure what they'll look like on your screens.
  12. dang were you building this and the 1/72 concurrently? good work again.
  13. Thanks for the kind words everyone! I am pretty happy with how it turned out. Thanks @Uncle Pete! Relatively new (compared to a lot of people on this board hah), I'm at about 3 and a half years in after returning to this hobby since building as a kid. There's a lot of resources available to guide the modeler today, including the helpful posts and people on this board. Thanks @Andy Dyck, I think the photography is a double edge sword - honestly I think the model looks better in the photos than it does in real life, but on the flip side I'm able to see some weathering I tried to be really subtle about show up that I thought I had accidentally removed, not easily seen by the naked eye. But besides that there's also things only I know as the builder, such as not getting the clear parts cleanly off the gate sprue, areas I damaged during final assembly that I didn't bother to repair, or areas not easily seen in the photos hah.
  14. For completeness sake, if anyone is looking at this in the future, the build has been completed and posted to RFI. I've included a few more WIP shots I took during the build below which show the rebuilt exhaust area, my first attempt at paint (the wings got toned down considerably afterwards as the original paint I used ended up shinier than the "bare metal" paint), and then decals on.
  15. great work! I added one to the stash a short while ago. Any areas to watch out for during assembly?
  16. Hi all, I'm calling this P-51D finished. Originally supposed to be part of the Mustang group build, but I was unable to finish in time. Here's a copy/paste from the WIP on the background of this kit, as well as link to partial in-progress shots if you want to see those: Backstory: My local model shop inherited a large stash from someone who had passed away and was having a sidewalk sale on the excess inventory. All items were sold as is, as it seemed that the departed modeler/collector had started some projects and combined some kits into different boxes, which meant there was the potential for incomplete kits. I saw it as an opportunity to get some kits for cheap to experiment with, as I'm still relatively new to the hobby. One that caught my eye was a boxing for a 1/48 Tamiya P-51D (8th AF version) as I thought it would be a great opportunity to try out a natural metal finish aircraft. Upon initial inspection it seemed the major parts were in there, so I added it to my shopping basket. After reaching home and further examining the kit, it appears the modeler had started this kit and had a specific idea of what he wanted to do with it. There were weapons from another kit included, as well as an aftermarket decal sheet for a specific aircraft, the "Short Fuse". In fact, the major parts were already cut from the gates and some parts of a resin cockpit had been put together. I'm going to attempt to finish this aircraft for our fallen comrade, hopefully I do it justice. I'll be using the parts included in the box as intended to be built by him, and hopefully there aren't any missing pieces that I'm overlooking to make a complete aircraft. A quick Google search history of the aircraft - it was flown by Richard E Turner of the 354th Fighter Group, an ace in WWII before serving in the Korean War. Apparently his plane originally had art depicting "Short Fuse Sallee", but after finding out Sallee was with another man, he had the name removed. This was my 2nd 1/48 warbird and first attempt at a natural metal finish, as well as first attempt at more than the lightest weathering on an aircraft. I filled the panel lines/rivets in the wings twice and even after that, there was a slight indentation that could be seen after I put the paint on. We can call it simulating the putty deteriorating on the real aircraft, but it's really just pure laziness of not wanting to fill/sand again. It's painted with almost all Mission Model paints (Dull Aluminum for the body, Aluminum mixed with white and grey for the wings to simulate the silver lacquer). Weathering was done with oils and a little bit of pigments, but I may have gone a little overboard with the paint chipping via sponge. A lot more weathering could have been done, especially on the bottom of the aircraft, but I was ready to put this one behind me. Always open for critiques and tips, though I'm more focused on improving techniques than historical accuracy. Thanks for looking, and a thank you to the nameless modeler who started the kit and whose vision i tried to follow.
  17. Hi Aeroplane Man, I highly suggest you invest a little time to read about the different types of paint available (acrylic, enamel, lacquer, mix?), and then read about different brands available to you. As you're just starting out I'm going to assume you're brush painting (and not airbrushing), and suggest some popular and widely available ones - Vallejo Model Color, LifeColor, or Revell Aqua if acrylics, or Humbrol if enamel. I suggest the research because if you are thinking long term and may want to get into airbrushing, some paints don't lend themselves to airbrush as well so it would be good to get some that can perform double duty. To the other part of your question as to how many paints you need, I suggest you go into the instructions and find out where all the paints are called out. You may find that a few of the paints are for really small parts that may not be worth buying an entire bottle of paint for. Like spruecutter96 said see if you have a model shop around you first. If not, others can direct you to UK friendly online shops.
  18. great start, everything looks amazing, especially your 1/72 pilot.
  19. Shin

    Satin or gloss

    The safe answer as the others have mentioned is to use a gloss coat before decals. You can matte it all down afterwards. The long answer is that technically you don't need a semi-gloss or gloss coat for decals, you just need a smooth surface to decrease the chance of silvering. This can be accomplished by making sure the paint coat you apply is smooth, or by sanding your paint until it is smooth, or by applying the gloss coat. The gloss coat could also be an extra barrier of protection for the decal solutions affecting your paint. I mention all this because the gloss coat may be an unneeded step, and every extra layer you add on increases the chance of screwing something up. good luck!
  20. If you're putting them onto a matte surface, the pigments may stick to the paint just by grinding it in. I use a makeup applicator, kind of a sponge-like thing. In Michael Rinaldi's book TankArt, he suggest doing this: apply your pigments, and then take your airbrush and load up Tamiya X-20A (yes, the acrylic thinner), and spray it on really lightly (5 psi) over the pigments, from a far enough distance that you don't blow the pigments all over. I imagine this would only work on top of acrylic paint/clear coat. I wonder if the light spray could work with pigment fixer without diluting the pigment color? The grinding method has worked for me in past projects, and I tried the X-20A yesterday for the first time. Things seem to be staying so far.
  21. Thanks both! I installed the flaps - one went in great, one was less cooperative. In hindsight maybe I should have used heat to try and get closer to the proper shape before trying to install it, but what's done is done. It looks fine from the top, but you can see the gap when viewed from below. Since the last post I've installed the major pieces together, puttied and sanded the major seams, and tried to rescribe detail, all steps with varying degrees of success hah. There is a huge gap behind the cowling that I need to fill once I finish the engine and attach all that with glue. The black paint in the photo is primer to check my seams. I also did a color test. These are the two paints that I was planning on deciding between to use for this build - Mission Models 052 USN/USMC Sea Blue and 065 Gloss Sea Blue. I'm not sure if either one hits exactly what I have in my mind's eye when I think Corsair Gloss Sea Blue, right now I'm leaning towards adding some regular Blue to the Gloss Sea Blue and see what that looks like. It currently looks more grey in real life than what I see in the above photo on this laptop screen.
  22. I don't get a car-like shine after shooting X-22, that would require some sanding/polishing. But you should be able to run your finger over it after it dries with it feeling really smooth. It sounds like you are taking the same steps as I have and leaving ample drying time, so don't think I can offer any other advice with this setup. I've never tried the Mr. Weathering products/solvents you are using, but my guess would be they are similar to Tamiya Panel Liner which I have used successfully. I can however say that using Mr. Color Leveling Thinner with X-22 produces a much more smooth surface than using X-20A in my personal experiences. Personally I use Winsor & Newton oil paint diluted with mineral spirits (Mona Lisa Odorless paint thinner) on X-22 and it works great. If I recall, the YouTuber Plasmo (or maybe it was someone else) uses oil points over the Mr. Color Gloss, GX-100 (a lacquer) I believe, with good results. Definitely perform your own tests, not on a kit. Good luck!
  23. Hi @CasualModel98, how long did you let your final coat of X-22 gloss dry before you attempted the panel line wash? The only time I've had issues with it was when I tried to move onto the next step too quickly - same deal as you, i couldn't get my enamel wash to rub off completely where I wanted it to, stained the clear. Not as bad as yours mind you. After that experience I give X-22 at least 48 hours to get closer to curing and haven't had an issue wiping enamels away since. I mostly use thinned oil paint now for my panel lines, but do still use enamels occasionally for small quick jobs. No issues after giving the X-22 more time to harden. I also just thought of this - are you sure you have full coverage of the X-22? If you're just misting it on and not getting a full gloss coat, the wash could be getting caught on unglossed painted areas. I assume you've heard of the trick of light wet coats of X-22/Mr. Levelling Thinner, then going over it with a mist coat of neat Mr. Color Leveling Thinner?
  24. Shin

    Stynylrez issues?

    I have also used all three colors you mention and the only I had issues with was the white one, similar to what you are describing with the black. I don't think it blocked up entirely, but getting it out of the airbrush became much more difficult. What ended up working for me was simply increasing the PSI significantly for white. So I suggest either trying with a much higher psi (30+) first, but straining the black like you mention may reveal that you did receive some dud bottles. I've never tried this but you could also perhaps try thinning it a little with water? I also assume you're shaking the heck out of these before using them.
  25. Thanks fellas. Small update, joined the fuselage halves and applied putty to the seams. My least favorite part of modelling is trying to rescribe the detail lost after sanding this out, I have yet to do this consistently with a finish I'm happy with. To make this build a little more interesting I decided to try my hand at surgery, and install some aftermarket Aires resin parts to allow for a flaps down display. A little patience with the razor saw and with only a few slips, think I made out alright. Curious how the actual installation will go...
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