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Everything posted by Shin

  1. Project looks great so far! Have you given Tamiya X-22 or Mr. Color GX100 a try? Thinned with Mr. Color Levelling thinner, either of them are pretty bombproof and can be wet sanded. I haven't heard anything good about the Alclad Klear Kote gloss, but many people swear by their acrylic Aqua Gloss. Not sure how well it holds up sanding though.
  2. orange and yellow often tricky with acrylics. white or pink primer are apparently suggested for such colors.
  3. Thanks @Neil Lambess! First thing to update: I found out Tamiya X-21 flat base by itself does not adhere when I accidentally wiped a big chunk of of it off a clear piece just by handling it. In theory nothing would be handled after installation, but why risk things flaking off in the near future. So I removed all I could and then reshot it with X-21 mixed 50/50 with XF-86 Flat Clear. That fixed the adhesion issue and I was still able to frost the clear pieces effectively. As mentioned last post I received a shipment of various LEDs to test from Evan Designs including
  4. glad you're on your way and having success. RAF Dark Earth & Dark Green were actually the first MM paints I tried through airbrush. Regarding color accuracy obviously everything is in the eye of the beholder, but you can mix paints with ease (and drops makes it relatively consistent) and of course primer color effects the overall effect as well. With thinner paint you could try shooting from a touch further away in slightly lighter coats, this could help speed up drying time as well. I know MM suggests light wet coats for best adhesion, but I haven't had problems with using th
  5. @Stickframe well I'm seeing your photos (wall & truck), so that's a good sign. from what everyone else has said hotlinking directly from Google albums may eventually break, but I haven't had any troubles using the alternate method I outlined yet. Just a few extra steps is all.
  6. sounds good, hope mixing up a few things gets you to a usable work flow. For testing sake it may be beneficial to try it on a nicely primed test piece, just to eliminate some external factors. Here's a pretty good resource: https://modelpaintsol.com/builds/eduard-72-f6f-hellcat-night-fighter-7079 John at Model Paint Solutions has build articles and he mostly uses Mission Model paints. His articles have ratios and notes on his mixes that he uses. Just note that he has recently switched from the Poly to Mission Models Clear Primer (I think the Hellcat is one of his first articles us
  7. ah @Fraz97, I see you're already on the Mission Models paint train - so you can ignore my comment about the thinner your varnish post. Sorry you're having trouble with the paint though! Let's see if I can help: 1. Are you having the same problems with multiple colors, or just tried one? 2. Have you shaken the paint thoroughly? I find if it sits for a while it really separates out. 3. The mixing ratios from the FAQ on their website are good starting points. I personally need to use more thinner than they recommend for most paints to get a good spray from my airbrus
  8. thanks @dromia, I'll certainly defer to your experience as you use this stuff regularly, I'm just parroting what I remember reading from others using it as well as my own (albeit brief) usage of the W&N matt. Unthinned is nice, one less step to worry about. yeah this has caused a lot of confusion, but it's actually moved. In the top right of your post you should see the three dots, that'll bring up a small menu, one of the options is to edit your post.
  9. I think the biggest complaint I've heard about Tamiya's flat (XF-86, not X-21 flat base mind you) is that it doesn't "flatten" as much as people think a flat should, there is still a light sheen. But I've also never had it "frost" on me either like other acrylic flats have, which is one of the biggest positives. But yeah, sounds like Mission gloss and/or W&N gloss & matt may be a good starting point for you. Regarding dromia's note above about the W&N instructions not mentioning thinning, I'm 80% sure that's because the instructions are written for brush painting over m
  10. hey @Fraz97, are you tied to those two brands? LONG STORY SHORT: I've heard many success stories with the Mission Models and W&N clears, but I think there are easier to use and more consistent options out there. Let me preface this by saying I paint 90% with Mission Model paints, so I'm decently familiar with their system. I own their three clear coats and have had decent results with their gloss, mixed results with their semi-gloss, and no good results with their flat. I fully acknowledge my troubles are probably user error and can be rectified with more practice, but quite f
  11. Hey @Stickframe, if you go to the link below, Gorby put my instructions on posting from Google Photos into his summary writeup in the first post. Long story short, there are a few steps you need to take, including using another website. It's a lot more work than most people would probably want to do to post photos on the forum, but I like the ease of Google Photos for uploading and albums, I'm not worried about the longevity of the company hosting the photos, and I already had an account. One thing he didn't copy/paste from my post is that when you get the posting link for your ph
  12. looks badass so far! I have a hard enough time figuring out instructions sometimes, couldn't imagine trying to mash multiple kits together. Curious to see what you plan for the paint!
  13. *I know there's a lot of text below, feel free to just look at the pretty pictures * As far as assembly goes I started with the bussard collectors inside the warp engines. Besides the instructions starting here, it made sense to work in the area with moving parts first, as they may require the most trial and error. The system is pretty neat - a housing for the whole thing. You put the motor in from the front (wire first so it sticks out the back) where it slides into position, you put the circular yellow light LED board in, run the wire out of the hole at
  14. Hi all, starting a build log for my 1/1000 Enterprise model as depicted in Star Trek: Discovery. I know people have strong feelings (positive and negative) about the show, but I think most people agree this re-imagining of the original series Constitution class was firmly on the plus side. This kit was released from Polar Lights earlier this year and I think I grabbed the first one available at my local model store, along with the lighting kit. First thing first - the combo was pricey, and doesn't even include Aztec decals (which were released a couple months later for another $25)
  15. @Mark V hey neighbor, there are different levels of mineral spirits. Some hardware store caliber brands may be too strong for model paint clears, and possibly Pledge. I know lots of people have success with Future, but I've too many horror stories about it that I stick with modelling products - even if it costs more. In theory any cured acrylic gloss coat should be able to handle an enamel wash. Possible reasons for your reactions: 1. the aforementioned too strong mineral spirits. Are you using one from a hobby company or art company? I personally use Mona Lisa Odorless thinn
  16. Shin

    Getting Started

    I believe ISO only works with certain acrylics - I would certainly not try with enamels, and am doubtful about lacquers. I have heard rumors it gums up Vallejo paints though, so definitely try first outside of the airbrush. John at Model Paint Solutions tried a bunch of cleaners with different acrylic paints, the results in his chart may help people with cleaning. Ironically it looks as if the Vallejo cleaner didn't even perform all that great on Vallejo paints, but was superb against Tamiya. Worth a read: https://modelpaintsol.com/guides/airbrushing-tips-v4-airbrush-cleaners
  17. Shin

    Getting Started

    I personally don't like this method - I know it works for some, but I would rather be sure about my mix ratios. With Tamiyas I like 40% paint to 60% thinner (I generally use Mr. Color Levelling Thinner, or X-20A). This also allows me to be more accurate and repeatable with my mixes, especially if I need other ratios (10/90 for effects painting for example). I would not use X-20A for airbrush cleaning purely because of cost - isopropyl alcohol would do fine for this purpose. I see you got your Vallejo airbrush cleaner - test if that works on the Tamiya paint first outside the airbru
  18. Hi Will, I'm confused with what you mean by wrong color - all three different sets have an incorrect color? Do you mean compared to references (inaccurate), or to your paint color? If it's to your paint color, I think you're much better off trying to match the paint to the decals. I don't know how you would possibly print decals to match paint color without a significant amount of trial and error.
  19. No problems @Maurice William Hilarius, glad I could help. Regarding the questions above, 1. I have the Tamiya brown and a small handful of the Ammo and they perform the same to me. The benefits of the Tamiya is that it has a built in brush (though some people don't like said brush), while the benefits of the Mig is that there are quite a few colors to choose from (Tamiya only has four I think). With both, be sure to shake often, as the pigments settle to the bottom of the bottom quickly. I use Mona Lisa Odorless thinners (a mineral spirit) to do my wipe away/cleanup. It works the s
  20. @Pete FIt is certainly a piece of dogma that is being challenged. When I first got back into the hobby a few years ago this is all i heard, gloss coat must be applied before decals. In the last year or so I have not applied a gloss coat pre-decal, but I have been fine-sanding the areas where decals will be going before application - I agree a smooth surface still helps to prevent problems and helps with positioning. That said there are times where even this isn't possible (around small detail complex surfaces), and decals often find a way to make it work. I guess one example of th
  21. Hey @Ant79, just a quick tip for the future - try and fix any silvering before applying a matt varnish. There's no real fix after you varnish over the decals besides hiding it with paint as someone above said. If you still have access to the decal you can continue to try hitting it with more solvent or stabbing the air pockets with a small pin, but once you varnish that option is gone. Matt varnish can hide a few small imperfections including sheen differences between decal and paint, but silvering will often show through. Do you have a photo of the silvering, that may help us hel
  22. Hi @Maurice William Hilarius, I assume by this you mean you don't want the airplane to be too dirty to the level it needs a wash, rather than you don't want to use a wash to accent the panel lines - the "wash" in this case being a common procedure to accent panel lines and rivets. I suggest you go to YouTube and type in "panel line wash" to see this in action, but the easiest way to accent rivets and panel lines is to apply a gloss coat to your model, and then run what's called a wash (or if more targeted, a "pinwash") made up of a non-reactive (to your gloss coat) highly thinned p
  23. Thanks for images from the actual book. The book itself may or may not have some merit, others can debate that. However the advertisements were completely tasteless, among other words.
  24. AK Interactive in their wisdom decided to use graphic footage from the Holocaust (bodies being bulldozed, ovens, etc.) to promote a new book coming out on the 3rd with some B-movie slasher caliber movie trailer on YouTube & Facebook "print" ads. It was... not well received. Not surprisingly the response was less than enthusiastic, as their Facebook page and YouTube video were bombarded with comments condemning them asking them to take them down and apologize. One of the employees tried to argue with people in the comments about how people didn't understand, that AK were likening their book
  25. Hey @BlueNosers352nd, personally I don't use any clear coats before decaling, just sand the paint smooth. If your paint reacts to decal solutions or you don't want to sand, a gloss coat beforehand would be a good idea. I then apply a gloss coat of Tamiya X-22 thinned with Mr. Color Leveling thinner for panel washes, though I'm going to try GX100/112 next time I come across a bottle. Any properly applied gloss should do fine as a pre-decal/wash - it doesn't need to be automobile caliber glossy for these applications. Regarding flat, you mention the Tamiya you tried not being flat e
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